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MS P85D wheel spacers?

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You can cut them or you can buy shorter studs or buy longer studs and run spacers not adapters which won’t effect the offset either

Thank you tyler2323! I choose to just shave them, I had the time - ha. I did go 20mm all the way around and it looks great. Obviously there is the rubbing, in reverse most noticeable.

Outside of that I have the lowering links, so the bouncing is more pronounced on lower settings. Not sure how to combat that other than drive in a higher setting, maybe stiffer springs?

Anyway thanks again. Sorry for the ghost post, hopefully you’ll give me a new guy pass on that one.
 

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Thank you tyler2323! I choose to just shave them, I had the time - ha. I did go 20mm all the way around and it looks great. Obviously there is the rubbing, in reverse most noticeable.

Outside of that I have the lowering links, so the bouncing is more pronounced on lower settings. Not sure how to combat that other than drive in a higher setting, maybe stiffer springs?

Anyway thanks again. Sorry for the ghost post, hopefully you’ll give me a new guy pass on that one.


No need for sorry, I’m actually sorry cuz I didn’t list the 2 different studs you could have bought instead of cutting the ones you did.
The shorter ones are super cheap too, the longer still not expensive $5/each Dorman 610.490

The shorter are 610.434
 
No need for sorry, I’m actually sorry cuz I didn’t list the 2 different studs you could have bought instead of cutting the ones you did.
The shorter ones are super cheap too, the longer still not expensive $5/each Dorman 610.490

The shorter are 610.434

tyler2323

thanks for the info... I’m sure that if I decide to keep this mod I’ll invest further in the future. Is there a greater risk for running shorter/shaved bolts?
 
tyler2323

thanks for the info... I’m sure that if I decide to keep this mod I’ll invest further in the future. Is there a greater risk for running shorter/shaved bolts?


Absolutely that’s why I said only run adapters with shorts ones. You need 7 full rotations, some say 9 idfk but 7 is the minimum let’s say. If you run any kind of spacer (meant for the long studs) you’re going to potential lose your wheels they will fall off. Yes... off your car... goodbye and say ur prayers cuz u r probably gone too.
Is that a legit enough reason lol
 
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Absolutely that’s why I said only run adapters with shorts ones. You need 7 full rotations, some say 9 idfk but 7 is the minimum let’s say. If you run any kind of spacer (meant for the long studs) you’re going to potential lose your wheels they will fall off. Yes... off your car... goodbye and say ur prayers cuz u r probably gone too.
Is that a legit enough reason lol

Lol yep got it! Adapters short, spacers long! Thx
 
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As far as shaving the ones you already had, not an issue at all as I did the same with my rear studs before I knew about the other options of studs to purchase.

Can you post more pictures of your car in both low and regular settings. Looks clean af but I definitely would love to see more pictures

thx - here is Low vs Very High. I obviously have lowering links. The previous post shows a pic with Low w/wheel adapters.
 
So my 20MM on all 4's with 21 inch turbines are rubbing in front in reverse with the wheel turned (like everyone else's). Did anyone come out with the best method to stop/minimize this? I heard a heat gun was not successful? I heard a Dremel cutting a few fins down a few mm's did work? Mine also seems to rub on the flat part (like in everyones pics). Doesn't that still rub? Its quite embarrassing when reversing and the loud rubbing noise makes everyone look over thinking you are driving over something. Having said this.. the look of the spacers with the lowering links is worth in imo (and wow it feels much tighter on the road with the combo).
 
UPDATE - I used a wire brush on the end of my grinder today. Shaved off a few mm of the front wheel well. 95% of my rubbing is gone (and the remaining is a very quiet rubbing). Very happy with the results!!

Not sure why you’re experiencing so much rubbing. Most likely cuz you used adapters instead of spacers meaning you changed the offset too much. When using spacers where the lug nuts bolt directly to the original studs it will not change the positioning as much. However if it’s flush enough you will have some while turning in reverse only. These is how I have my fronts that are specd the same a Tesla’s 21’s. I drive in low and don’t have any rubbing at any height when going forward. Only sometimes in reverse.
What year is you Tesla? There will be more rubbing with an older prefacelift model than facelift as well.
FYI this is a P85D I’ve just converted it but still has the same wheel well clearance

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Not sure why you’re experiencing so much rubbing. Most likely cuz you used adapters instead of spacers meaning you changed the offset too much. When using spacers where the lug nuts bolt directly to the original studs it will not change the positioning as much. However if it’s flush enough you will have some while turning in reverse only. These is how I have my fronts that are specd the same a Tesla’s 21’s. I drive in low and don’t have any rubbing at any height when going forward. Only sometimes in reverse.
What year is you Tesla? There will be more rubbing with an older prefacelift model than facelift as well.
FYI this is a P85D I’ve just converted it but still has the same wheel well clearance

View attachment 542329View attachment 542330 View attachment 542332

It only rubbed in reverse and it would be loud (people would look over) as the tire tread would catch on the fins. Now that I used the wire wheel on the grinder I am having almost no rubbing (took 3-4 min per side with the wheels on!). I can maybe hear it a bit but barely audible. Same.. P85D with FBR, 20MM hub centric spacers on powder-coated 21's, adjustable lowering links.

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Hi all. new here. also new only 3mths with 2015 Tesla Model S 70D with 19'wheels, not air ride. I finally received 25mm from Motorsport, I think aluminum, don't remember. I got them installed today, on top of finding that 1 rear Michelin has screw in it, got this one plugged, the shop's patch machine I was told not working, and then re balanced. Now here are the issues:
1. Vibration above 65mph, feels like coming from the rear
2. The ride is rough, feels like sport mode but I don't have adjustable suspension
3. I did call back and asked if he torqued to 129lbs, no 100lbs on both spacers and wheels
4. plugged Michelin should be patched instead and rebalanced?
 
Hi all. new here. also new only 3mths with 2015 Tesla Model S 70D with 19'wheels, not air ride. I finally received 25mm from Motorsport, I think aluminum, don't remember. I got them installed today, on top of finding that 1 rear Michelin has screw in it, got this one plugged, the shop's patch machine I was told not working, and then re balanced. Now here are the issues:
1. Vibration above 65mph, feels like coming from the rear
2. The ride is rough, feels like sport mode but I don't have adjustable suspension
3. I did call back and asked if he torqued to 129lbs, no 100lbs on both spacers and wheels
4. plugged Michelin should be patched instead and rebalanced?

take this off now. i think your wheels are riding on your studs due to the 19" stud wheel pockets not clearing the studs. its about to snap your studs if this is true, gonna be a bad day for you and people around you at the time.
 
I shaved a couple mm off the rear studs because they were hitting inside of the pocket of stock 21 turbines. I didn’t notice any vibration but after inspecting The wheels after a couple weeks I saw the damage.

20mm spacers all around, fronts do not need to be shaved.

I tried to leave the spacers with 19s and they didn’t sit all.
 
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I shaved a couple mm off the rear studs because they were hitting inside of the pocket of stock 21 turbines. I didn’t notice any vibration but after inspecting The wheels after a couple weeks I saw the damage.

20mm spacers all around, fronts do not need to be shaved.

I tried to leave the spacers with 19s and they didn’t sit all.


Weird.. I have 20mm all around on my staggered turbines with no stud fitment issues at all. I can also use them on my replica 19 inch winter turbines with no issues. Wheels & spacers have been on and off many times and no damage seen.
 
Weird.. I have 20mm all around on my staggered turbines with no stud fitment issues at all. I can also use them on my replica 19 inch winter turbines with no issues. Wheels & spacers have been on and off many times and no damage seen.

the rear studs definitely were touching the inner pocket of my turbines. They left a small circular mark inside each pocket.

similar to the attached pic. (Not my pic)
the pockets of the 19s were way too shallow and didn’t fit.
 

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I am about to buy a 2016 P90D and want to fit a set of 22 inch wheels I have from my previous car. With 15mm wheel stud adapters (5x120 to 5x114,3) the 9x22 wheels would protrude 23mm more outward compared to the stock 8,5x20 wheels.

I intend to to use 235/30R22 front tires and 265/30 rear tires, which I also still have lying around.
These tires are the same diameter as the 245/40R20 and 265/40R20 tires, which I believe are a stock fitment?

Would this result in rubbing on the arches?

I know comfort and range will suffer with the 22-inch wheels, but these Niche wheels I have are just too nice not to use.

BTW The car is not lowered and has air suspension.