Mud on the Door Sills

[hcsharp]

... My roadster seems to throw everything in the door sill.

Not quite everything. The rest ends up on top of the rear pan and/or in the fans/PEM.

 

[Botbldr45]

I'll be back in MD on Friday and post the steps and the materials I used.
It seems to work pretty good to clean up the door sills but the area below the new fitting still gets dirty...... It just doesn't get blown up the inside of the door.

 

[NomoC8]

Factory basically copied FXJim's solution posted here.

Where?

 

[Botbldr45]

Ok ther goes!
First..... This mud flap solution is NOT indorsed by Tesla ....... They probably don't know about it!
The information was obtained by looking at a Tesla upgrade on a car and getting a few words form a very smart Tesla tech. I did this last summer and it helps...... Still keep a microcloth by drivers seat to get moisture that gets through. Rocked, stones, mud and crud do not get thru! Yea!

Materials:
1) Garage door seal EDMP bulk material
- there are two types I looked at, Lowes hardware has a softer more pliable product that I used,
- Ace hardware has a stiffer version that I was afraid would eventually wear the paint but I am thinking of getting some for a front seal that I don't have right now.
2) Bulb seal bulk material I got from Lowes but Autozone probably has it since it is for car door insulation,
3) Scrivets 3/8 * 11/16. 1" flange fascia Auveco blind Rivets. I got these from Northeast Fasteners Co.,Inc ...online order.
4)Double Sided tape TESA brand CS-4965-3
- Google Tesa double sided tape 3/4"; go to Tesa tape distributors -CodeSource.Com
- there IS a Tesa.Com you might try
- this was hardest for me to find but it is really good strong water resistant tape
5) 5/16 drill bit
6) nerve to drill holes in underside of door

You also need some "Brakeclean" to get the seal and door ready for the tape

- - - Updated - - -

steps:

1) Cut two door seals 35" long
2) Cut two of the bulb seals at about 5"
3) Use the Brakeclean to clean the 35" seals making sure you are cleaning the short side of the seal or you will not close the gap when you put it in place. The long part of the "L" must hand down to cover the gap between the sill and the door.
4) Apply the double sided tape to the door seal as shown in pic above.
5) Clean the underside of the door with Brakeclean.
6) Close the door and apply 35" seal to bottom of door to close gap. With door closed you can get a snug fit to the sill. Toward the back of the door it does get tight. Best to try a trial fit before taping to see how it fits and get an idea here to start. I started from front after putting a pencil mark at starting point on door during trial fitting.
7) Get Brave!!! Drill 6 5/16 holes in the bottom of the door and install push type skivets. I then whacked them with a rubber mallet to seat them. I suggest you try one first to see if hole size is appropriate....... Adjust hole to size of retainer ( quality control being what it is!).
8) Place self-adhesive bulb seals at a right angle at the end of the 35" seal (see pic below)

Can't seem to repost pic of bulb type seal so go back to previous post to see that pic.......also look at scrivet retainer positions on previous pic ( one on each side of bump, one at each end, one in middle of those two positions on each side of bump)

- - - Updated - - -

This is really NOT my idea and can't take credit for the idea. Since Tesla can't help us right now it seems appropriate to post this idea. Do this at your own risk....hahaha...... No idea what's on inside if door you drill into but I didn't seem to hit anything important.
Make sure door is clean before applying tape!!!

No I didn't jack the car up, just laid on my back.......but I'll bet its a lot easier if you do jack it up!
Be careful!

 

[7racer]

you sir are awesome! Thank you!
just need to find a weekend to do this.

 

[hcsharp]

Thanks for posting this! How do you keep the bulb seal from scratching the sill when you open and close the door? There is always a little dust there and I haven't figured out a way to prevent that. Maybe a strip of clear paint armor or something similar? On my 2.5 there is already paint armor on the vertical side where the garage door seal will contact the paint.

 

[Botbldr45]

Thanks for posting this! How do you keep the bulb seal from scratching the sill when you open and close the door? There is always a little dust there and I haven't figured out a way to prevent that. Maybe a strip of clear paint armor or something similar? On my 2.5 there is already paint armor on the vertical side where the garage door seal will contact the paint.

Yea great question!

The fact is the bulb seal really doesn't make contact on my car, however, I did put a piece of clear contact paper on the vertical in anticipation. All cars are different so may want to gauge the clearance and make adjustments. The Lowes garage seal is soft so I have had no problem there but the harder seal I found at Ace would definitely be a problem without "star shield" or contact paper. I'm still figuring out what to do about the front of the door. I put some bulb seal, which is pretty soft, up there but the gap is just too big.

 

[hcsharp]

Yea great question!

The fact is the bulb seal really doesn't make contact on my car, however, I did put a piece of clear contact paper on the vertical in anticipation. All cars are different so may want to gauge the clearance and make adjustments. The Lowes garage seal is soft so I have had no problem there but the harder seal I found at Ace would definitely be a problem without "star shield" or contact paper. I'm still figuring out what to do about the front of the door. I put some bulb seal, which is pretty soft, up there but the gap is just too big.

I thought the whole purpose of the bulb seal was to divert water coming from above to the outside where it can drain. If the bulb seal doesn't make contact then how do you keep water from collecting in the bottom of the door sill? Won't the garage seal trap it in there? The bulb seal will divert water that comes from the top of the door to the outside so it can drain, but only if it makes contact. There's a lot of water because the recess for the door actuator funnels it down so it drains onto the sill.

 

[Botbldr45]

I thought the whole purpose of the bulb seal was to divert water coming from above to the outside where it can drain. If the bulb seal doesn't make contact then how do you keep water from collecting in the bottom of the door sill? Won't the garage seal trap it in there? The bulb seal will divert water that comes from the top of the door to the outside so it can drain, but only if it makes contact. There's a lot of water because the recess for the door actuator funnels it down so it drains onto the sill.

The position of the bulb seal will determine amount (pressure) of contact. I mentioned that all cars are a little different in tolerances or fix. The gap varies. My bulb strip does not leave a gap but doesn't scrape on the paint. I put clear contact paper where the bulb seal is positioned. I used three layers to help with the seal. I don't get any road dirt on the sill but as I mentioned that I do keep a micro cloth at door side to wipe up any moisture that gets thru. I really don't get much of that. There is no pooling of water in my car and there used to be.

Need to play around with where you put that seal. You can get an idea of the amount of contact by observing and feeling the bulb seal with your finger right before closing the door. You can never really see the contact with the door closed.

Remember this is just a crazy idea and not even very well thought out. My major goal was to stop rocks and mud balls from entering the car. I'm sure this solution could be improved upon and made more water tight. That was not really my intent.

What's a door actuator?

 

[Botbldr45]

I thought the whole purpose of the bulb seal was to divert water coming from above to the outside where it can drain. If the bulb seal doesn't make contact then how do you keep water from collecting in the bottom of the door sill? Won't the garage seal trap it in there? The bulb seal will divert water that comes from the top of the door to the outside so it can drain, but only if it makes contact. There's a lot of water because the recess for the door actuator funnels it down so it drains onto the sill.

:scared:

Well ........... I checked the bulb seal and noticed some wear marks on the contact paper I put on the vertical upswing at the back of the door sill. hcsharp is correct and the bulb seal should contact the door sill behind the garage door seal ( that closes off the horizontal part of the door sill). In fact I think the bulb seal should be at a slight angle, at least 33 degrees to the outside away from the garage seal ) to allow water from above to flow to the outside.

Absolutely great thinking hcsharp...... Thank you sir.

 

[NomoC8]

ac·tu·a·tor (

k

ch

-

t

r)n. One that activates, especially a device responsible for actuating a mechanical device, such as one connected to a computer by a sensor link.

The door opener.

Very nicely done and documented. Thank you. I was wondering how the adhesive tape is holding up? I was planning to do this but was going to use tape only. There's a double sided tape made by 3M. It's used for holding emblems to the outside of the car. I figured that would be pretty waterproof. I don't think I have the stones to drill holes in the door. Lowes actually has fasteners very similar to the ones you have there.

Be careful with the brake cleaner! I think that will take the paint off. It can damage plastic parts as well. I usually wash and dry, then wipe down with alcohol. I think I will use paint protector where ever it makes contact.

 

[Botbldr45]

Be careful with the brake cleaner! I think that will take the paint off. It can damage plastic parts as well. I usually wash and dry, then wipe down with alcohol. I think I will use paint protector where ever it makes contact.

Yes for sure and a very good point to include in case others want to try this idea. Just make sure the surfaces are clean. I used brake clean because it did such a good job cleaning my brake calipers before I painted them. Maybe a bad idea on a painted door but used sparingly ........ Covering it up with a rubber seal ........... Maybe ok.......

I'm sure 3M tape would work well. I had my tape idea from a previous job in a moist area and had success. It has held up...........drove about 80 miles in the rain yesterday with a dry sill at the end:biggrin:

Oh and "actuator"....... Yea I really guessed that but didn't know water leaked thru there. :scared:

Did I say that I changed the angle of the bulb seal to accommodate drainage to the outside as a result of that??
Hope so!

Paint protector where bulb seal rums ........... great idea!
I used clear contact paper. Do you have a better idea?

 

[dhrivnak]

I really do not have much problem with mud or other gunk on my door sills. Two things I did were to add bigger mud flaps behind the front tires and I added a seal to the bottom of the door very similar to what is described earlier in the thread. Warning both require drilling as I could not get double faced tape to work on the seal and drilled 4 holes to secure and the mud flap extensions I drilled small holes in the existing mud guard.

 

[NomoC8]

Paint protector where bulb seal rums ........... great idea!
I used clear contact paper. Do you have a better idea?

Someone else mentioned the stuff that TM uses, the name escapes me right now. I'm gonna try to find some.

 

[Botbldr45]

I really do not have much problem with mud or other gunk on my door sills. Two things I did were to add bigger mud flaps behind the front tires and I added a seal to the bottom of the door very similar to what is described earlier in the thread. Warning both require drilling as I could not get double faced tape to work on the seal and drilled 4 holes to secure and the mud flap extensions I drilled small holes in the existing mud guard. View attachment 37707View attachment 37708View attachment 37709View attachment 37710

I like this mud flap idea. It doesn't seem to increase drag because the profile appears to be within the wheel dimension and not sticking out. What kind of flap did you get? Generic Trak Auto trimmed with sheet metal shears or something special?

 

[dhrivnak]

I like this mud flap idea. It doesn't seem to increase drag because the profile appears to be within the wheel dimension and not sticking out. What kind of flap did you get? Generic Trak Auto trimmed with sheet metal shears or something special?

They were generic, lower cost all purpose mudflaps purchased at Advanced Auto. I think they were about $11. I had to trim and used some heavy shears. I then used some black sheet metal screws to tap into the existing mud flaps. I figure if I take them out the small holes can be filled in black silicone glue if need be.

 

[Botbldr45]

They were generic, lower cost all purpose mudflaps purchased at Advanced Auto. I think they were about $11. I had to trim and used some heavy shears. I then used some black sheet metal screws to tap into the existing mud flaps. I figure if I take them out the small holes can be filled in black silicone glue if need be.

So you didn't screw into the fender at all??:frown:

 

[dhrivnak]

No I did not have to go into the fender or carbon fiber. I attached into existing mud guard.

 

[smorgasbord]

The stock mud flaps are attached with rivets. I drilled those out and attached the additional flaps into the same holes. I used a combination of rivets, self tapping screws, and nuts and bolts - all through the existing holes. I also didn't trim the flaps width wise and even got to one of the bolts holding the felt lining in place. That's probably overkill, and I'll end up trimming back (but the tire doesn't rub).

I didn't know how low I could go with the mud flaps. I ended up trying 1&5/8" above the pavement. That's not enough for spirited driving, so right now I'm using the pavement to custom trim the mud flap length as I drive.

 

[Doug_G]

Yep. Right now my front mud flaps are being held on with duck tape. That's what I get for autocrossing the car.