Got my car through the 12,500 service today, plus a couple items I needed to have looked at... there were quite a few TSB items. In all, 17 items combined.
1) 12k service (incl tire rotation, FOB batteries, wiper blades)
2) Rolling driver's side window down made a scraping noise -- door handle shield got loose inside the door
3) HVAC filter replaced, debris from blower cleared
4) TSB - TPMS threshold lowered (I was getting a warning exactly 18 minutes into driving, every time)
5) New HPWC fuses that can handle 80 amp sustained use (I'll install them)
6) TSB - Liftgate water ingress (causing water in taillights) -- reseal butyl
7) TSB - Liftgate water ingress (different than 6; I forget where water could come in) -- redo applique tape
8) TSB - Have storage tray? Check -- no action
9) TSB - rotate HVAC clamp (reduce HVAC noise)
10) TSB - replace hvac pressure sensor seals with new model (could cause refrig leaks)
11) TSB - HVAC bracket and harness reroute (similar to, but different than #9)
12) TSB - Have rear skid bar? check -- no action
13) TSB - rear axle nut washers replaced
14) TSB - UMC replacement? Not needed
15) TSB - replace front mats; install rear mats
16) TSB - PSRCM calibration update (something to do with airbag I believe)
17) TSB - new J1772 adapter
Note that the HVAC noise is still there and still considerable. It's normal right now to be loud. Mine was a little extra loud (especially in the cabin) -- this helped a LITTLE.
I drove a loaner Model S -- VIN 11,--- with about 1000 miles on it. It's a LOT more solid/stiff than my car. The HVAC is just as loud. It doesn't have the drive inverter electrical noise that mine does, so I'll see if there's something that can be done about that. It's quite noticeable (embarrassing really) with windows down and passing by anything that reflects sound. I wonder what it sounds like to pedestrians.
I wonder if the loaner felt more solid because it's a better factory build or if it's 'cuz it's so new (doesn't have the wear and tear on it) ...
1) 12k service (incl tire rotation, FOB batteries, wiper blades)
2) Rolling driver's side window down made a scraping noise -- door handle shield got loose inside the door
3) HVAC filter replaced, debris from blower cleared
4) TSB - TPMS threshold lowered (I was getting a warning exactly 18 minutes into driving, every time)
5) New HPWC fuses that can handle 80 amp sustained use (I'll install them)
6) TSB - Liftgate water ingress (causing water in taillights) -- reseal butyl
7) TSB - Liftgate water ingress (different than 6; I forget where water could come in) -- redo applique tape
8) TSB - Have storage tray? Check -- no action
9) TSB - rotate HVAC clamp (reduce HVAC noise)
10) TSB - replace hvac pressure sensor seals with new model (could cause refrig leaks)
11) TSB - HVAC bracket and harness reroute (similar to, but different than #9)
12) TSB - Have rear skid bar? check -- no action
13) TSB - rear axle nut washers replaced
14) TSB - UMC replacement? Not needed
15) TSB - replace front mats; install rear mats
16) TSB - PSRCM calibration update (something to do with airbag I believe)
17) TSB - new J1772 adapter
Note that the HVAC noise is still there and still considerable. It's normal right now to be loud. Mine was a little extra loud (especially in the cabin) -- this helped a LITTLE.
I drove a loaner Model S -- VIN 11,--- with about 1000 miles on it. It's a LOT more solid/stiff than my car. The HVAC is just as loud. It doesn't have the drive inverter electrical noise that mine does, so I'll see if there's something that can be done about that. It's quite noticeable (embarrassing really) with windows down and passing by anything that reflects sound. I wonder what it sounds like to pedestrians.
I wonder if the loaner felt more solid because it's a better factory build or if it's 'cuz it's so new (doesn't have the wear and tear on it) ...
-- I'll ask, because it did cause me problems a couple times this past winter.
