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My 2011 Leaf needs a new battery - CPO or repair and wait?

Which should I do?

  • Repair the battery. $2,000 and get the Model 3 whenever it comes out.

    Votes: 77 78.6%
  • Don't repair Leaf and wait for Model 3

    Votes: 7 7.1%
  • Trade the Leaf in. Buy a CPO P85 or 85. Don't buy the Model 3.

    Votes: 5 5.1%
  • Trade the Leaf in. Buy a CPO P85 or 85. And trade it in to buy the Model 3.

    Votes: 9 9.2%

  • Total voters
    98
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I believe Volt to be a great least bargain as it would be below 300 monthly with nothing down. I'm leasing a Volt now with the plan to replace it with the M3.

Too small of a vehicle unfortunately. If the Volt were the same size as a Leaf we'd have 2 already. Its a great car but gimped size-wise.

We looked at the Bolt again and might pul the trigger. Its smaller than a Leaf, but just space-efficient enough that we might go for it. Again, would be a no brainer if they made it bigger.

My 80% when I start my commute is now 70 miles with the new battery... (although that number is probably BS) but for reference that's almost double my FULL charge estimate on my old battery in the morning - it was usually around 35-45.

So normal range wiht full charge is around 90 you think?
 
So normal range wiht full charge is around 90 you think?

Maybe for some people. When my car was new I could never really get more than 70 comfortably out of it. Maybe now since I've had it longer and know how to drive it I could get more out of it.

But it's very hilly where I live and I have a lead foot. :)

That estimate of 70 at 80% is def bs based on my experience.
 
On a highway this estimate drops down rather quickly :), at least in my 2011 Leaf. Battery is depleted - 8 bars out of 12 remaining - and 100% is estimated as 56 or so miles. After driving for 27 miles at highway speed, i.e. 60-75mph, I'd get about 8 miles left. And this is during summer, in flat-as-a-table Dallas. Gets worse in cold weather.
 
Maybe for some people. When my car was new I could never really get more than 70 comfortably out of it. Maybe now since I've had it longer and know how to drive it I could get more out of it.

But it's very hilly where I live and I have a lead foot. :)

That estimate of 70 at 80% is def bs based on my experience.
do you take the car to the dealers for tire rotation or any body could do it just like the ICE cars?
 
None of the above. I would never pay to fix a car for 50% of it's total worth. I would assume someone else's lease, so an i3 that has 2 years remaining on the lease or something like that. Payment is generally very low, and you get a much better car for the next couple years.
 
do you take the car to the dealers for tire rotation or any body could do it just like the ICE cars?

I take it to the dealer but any shop could rotate tires.

None of the above. I would never pay to fix a car for 50% of it's total worth. I would assume someone else's lease, so an i3 that has 2 years remaining on the lease or something like that. Payment is generally very low, and you get a much better car for the next couple years.

I fixed it for $2k.... And practically got a brand new Nissan Leaf (battery wise) from the deal. The car has had zero maintenance issues.

Considering a lease payment of $200 that's 10 months you are getting with your plan. I can now keep this car for another 6 years if I want to with practically no other costs other than wipers and rotating tires.

Your math certainly doesn't add up at all.
 
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I take it to the dealer but any shop could rotate tires.



I fixed it for $2k.... And practically got a brand new Nissan Leaf (battery wise) from the deal. The car has had zero maintenance issues.

Considering a lease payment of $200 that's 10 months you are getting with your plan. I can now keep this car for another 6 years if I want to with practically no other costs other than wipers and rotating tires.

Your math certainly doesn't add up at all.
thanks-Does the dealer charge you for tire rotation? How much it cost to do maintenance for the leaf?