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My biggest improvement with road noise
- Thread starter TLLMRRJ
- Start date
destructure00
Active Member
There's two possibilities there...it could be that the window track needs to be adjusted to make the top edge of the window move inwards and press harder against the seal, or it could be that the window position needs to be moved up inside the clamps so that it jams harder against the seal when it goes up. Two different adjustments.
Here's another video regarding window position adjustment.
Thanks a lot that's a good project to begin.
for adjusting the position bolts, let's say after I loosen the front bolt, do I grab the top of the winodw and pull it upward? unlike the track adjustment we can use an allen wrench to push it out by rotation. I believe it is just a tiny gap, don't want put up too much and hit the top trim.
for adjusting the position bolts, let's say after I loosen the front bolt, do I grab the top of the winodw and pull it upward? unlike the track adjustment we can use an allen wrench to push it out by rotation. I believe it is just a tiny gap, don't want put up too much and hit the top trim.
destructure00
Active Member
Yes, that's why I am recommending it. But honestly, there are people that can't even follow directions for using a California Duster correctly and they end up scratching their paint, so I can say without a doubt that the negative reviews are the people that just can't follow instructions.
It takes a couple of times to get comfortable with setting up the Trackace to take the measurement, but after that, it's quick and a lot easier than measuring with strings and rulers, and you get an extremely accurate result.
You can have your steering wheel off center by 45 degrees and the car can still track straight and you can still have zero extra tire wear. The steering wheel centering is a different matter than the alignment. In my case, I had the steering wheel center off, and in my quest to get that fixed, I found out on my own that the alignment shops (Tesla and independent in this case) had left me with way too much toe. That was causing premature wear and extra road noise.
I had Continentals from the factory. Then I switched to Michelins, and finally I fell in love with the Firestone Firehawk Indy 500's. Never had Pirellis.
That Jag XF was so nice, I bought 2 of them. They are such perfectly tuned cars for daily driving while still being sporty. But alas my XF's were getting old, and they stopped making the NA 5.0L V8, so I decided to go another route.
XLR82XS
D M C
I don't know where you procured your P-Zeros but I hate Pirellis due to the fact they ARE noisy and hard after ~1-2 years. Yes, you can beat a XJR as a long-distance road car.
XLR82XS
D M C
Possibly but I have had no excessive wear at ~11K miles and run Tesla recommended cold pressures of 41-42 PSI. 1 tire rotation at 9K. I had an off-center steering wheel on the 2020 at delivery and service center aligned the car before it's first 1K miles. I try to avoid hard cornering as well and think that has played well for tire wear.
SammichLover
Banned
Being in Houston, I can highly recommend swapping out the stock MXM 18" with the same sized Michelin PS4S. I found the difference to be massive. Not really anything on the noise, but the stopping distance, stability in corners is huge on dry pavement/concrete. In water the PS4S are like magic. Driving through a Gulf Coast downpour with standing water on I45 because it can't run off fast enough, your windshield wipers on high trying to keep up? Feels like a clear, summer day.
The only warning is that the grip will feel so good you're at risk of forgetting you can still get bit of hydroplaning under heavy braking, so make sure to remind yourself not to overdrive the somewhat reduced braking distance.Bonus is they'll wear a lot slower (in spite of the lower wear rating). I haven't tried the Tesla OEM 18" version, the PS4. I can't say if the extra acoustic foam is worth the substantial extra money. IIRC it was an extra $100 for the set when I was pricing them. I have heard there is very little difference in grip, the compound formulation is only slightly firmer in the PS4, so they're probably an acceptable choice, too.
On tire pressure; I've found that standard size 18" tires on the 3 tend to start getting a dead feel when dropping below 38-39PSI cold. The turn-in delay might not bother you much, depends on how you drive I guess, but it is a sign that you're putting extra flexing wear on your sidewalls. I wouldn't drive on 36PSI, I target 39-40PSI cold. It does save on center tread wear over using the Tesla stock 45PSI or 42PSI.
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So I've got a Model Y Performance i'm trying to get someone to align after a curb jumped in the middle of the road. I replaced the rims and wheels with some from Tsportline. I'm happy with them but of course need to get it aligned. Nobody will touch it, saying bs about sensors and steering homing blah blah blah.
I'll order one of those alignment tools if you recommend it. Any tricks to doing it or tips you could recommend?
It's really all about just doing it right by following the instructions. If you decide to skip or not do any step correctly, you won't get a good reading. It's one of those tools that you can't decide that you feel like doing it your way. It's their way or no way. So just watch the video, take your time, double check you are following the instructions, and it all goes well.
I do recommend getting 2 pairs of plastic sheets and putting heavy grease between them so your wheels can slide easily during adjustments. You might be able to work on the tie rods on the Y without jacking up the car. If so, just drive onto the plastic sheets. Otherwise you can put them under the tires when you are lowering the car.
Crazy that your alignment shops won't touch a Tesla. It really is pure ignorance on their part, but you are better off doing it yourself considering what a crappy job they do these days. I had to redo my Lambo today after paying a fortune for a professional alignment. As a bonus they over-torque the locking nuts on the tie rods to the point that I had to use a large flare nut wrench to keep from stripping the nut from the amount of force it took to get them off. Bozos. Fortunately, I have all these weird tools in my toolbox.
Luckily i found a guy that does alignments. Even better is that he comes to your location and does it. He's got a good portfolio of previous work and didn't even stutter when i told him it was a Tesla. He said as long as i have the right specs, no problem.
This is why i'm going to start finding more small local companies where the owner is a tech or actually works on cars. They'll actually try to earn your business and work with you instead of saying "not in my computer can't do it"
This is why i'm going to start finding more small local companies where the owner is a tech or actually works on cars. They'll actually try to earn your business and work with you instead of saying "not in my computer can't do it"
MacGreiner
5YJ
I had those Firehawk Indy 500s on my S and loved them. Super cheap too.
