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My Car is on a Diet.

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200lbs is about 5% of the weight of the car. The old rule of thumb was every 10lbs = 1 horsepower. Removing weight will make the car quicker, it will wear through tires and brakes at a slower rate, and it should corner better. Yeah, it's not a ton of weight - but the only functionality I am really losing is the rear seat which I never use anyway. Not making any permanent changes, it took me less than an hour to remove the rear interior. And honestly, I passed the point of sane modifications a long time ago :D

Ultimate goal is trying to place well in One Lap of America and the Ultimate Track Car Challenge this year.

I just don't think 5% weight saving is going to make enough difference to tyre and brake wear to be noticeable on this type of car.
Regardless, I'm interested to hear what you achieve, so ignore my negativity and keep us updated!
 
I used to see people spend 15 grand to lighten a race bike and then they would be 50lbs overweight.......no idea if that applies here just an observation. :)

I used to be one of those... 220 pounds trying to push a 600cc around the track. Messed up thing was how fast the bike went when I got down to 175, it handled better than $6,000 worth of mods combined did.
 
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Sorry, is this total suspension weight per axle - or something else?

I think the Lexan top glass is fine, it's the back glass that adds the structural rigidity (to my understanding). I completely agree on the door glass, it would be a nightmare.

The trunk is really the only panel on the car worth the $$ replacing with carbon fiber. The bumpers are plastic, the fenders are steel but already light, the doors and hood are already aluminum. But, 20lbs on the trunk for $1,500 isn't terrible (or great lol).

The A052 seems to be very light for its size compared to other tires, which is why I will be buying a set soon - and they are fast (but horrible wear).

The AP Racing BBK I have is only barely heavier than the stock Performance setup - I think like 1lb per side.

I'll get a Google Spreadsheet up later today!

I absolutely will not put a roll bar or cage into the Model 3, I regret the last time I did that to a car, made it so impractical to use.

I was able to drop over 800lbs out of an E46 M3 (2,500lbs without driver). Carbon fiber doors, hood, roof, and trunk, sound deadening removed, etc.

View attachment 630243

Let's try to keep it civil in this thread everyone :)
Suspension weight is for 2pcs including springs.

I am under impression that both roof glasses there for safety purposes as well. But I don't know facts. Anyway, I saw how bad lexan looks after some use and I can't afford that.

I agree that trunk is the only reasonable thing for dual use car. Track only sponsored car - go full carbon and lexan, who cares.

As I find out a052 is medium racing compound of Yoko, so it acts exactly the same, but gives some drivability (better than cup2) on a mild wet surface. It loses top grip after 5-6 cycles and stays same afterwards. Still faster than 4s, but not same as fresh. Pretty much same as any other racing compound.

On Evo X forum we had a guy who managed close to 2500lbs on Evo X. Tons of drilled holes, titanium everything. But on a mild accident the whole car collapsed completely. I don't think that we have really a lot of option for dual use weight savings. But steel trunk and full size battery are stupid. The rest can be removed beforehand and reinstalled back.

Oh and I got tired of invertors noise driving without rear seats. But this is easy to move out and back.

Bucket seats would break an updates. There is still no solution of passing update on a car without stock seats (even with emulator) - there is an MCU inside each front seat and nobody yet emulated update handshake sequence.
 
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Well I checked and the tires do not weigh 16 lb more then the OEM. So I did save weight. I verified by weighing the OEM tire with wheel and replacement tire and wheel. Unless the track enables speeds > 100 mph or so for a fairly large percent of the run, I would think the smaller tires would be a help. I don't know that we really know how Tesla limits power but I think they limit kW and if they do, then tire diameter doesn't matter much (Torque X RPM = HP = kW leaving out the constant multipliers). Lowering the car does matter on a track with curves right? Or are we just talking about dragstrip?
 
Well I checked and the tires do not weigh 16 lb more then the OEM. So I did save weight. I verified by weighing the OEM tire with wheel and replacement tire and wheel. Unless the track enables speeds > 100 mph or so for a fairly large percent of the run, I would think the smaller tires would be a help. I don't know that we really know how Tesla limits power but I think they limit kW and if they do, then tire diameter doesn't matter much (Torque X RPM = HP = kW leaving out the constant multipliers). Lowering the car does matter on a track with curves right? Or are we just talking about dragstrip?
You did save weight most probably, just not 16lb per corner vs stock.

Actually power curve vs speed is very well known, so unless specific track often goes below 40mph, shifting power to lower speeds (with smaller diameter tire) would make average power only lower.

Lowering a car matters, but its safe to assume car is on aftermarket suspension and lowered already.
 
Suspension weight is for 2pcs including springs.

I am under impression that both roof glasses there for safety purposes as well. But I don't know facts. Anyway, I saw how bad lexan looks after some use and I can't afford that.

I agree that trunk is the only reasonable thing for dual use car. Track only sponsored car - go full carbon and lexan, who cares.

As I find out a052 is medium racing compound of Yoko, so it acts exactly the same, but gives some drivability (better than cup2) on a mild wet surface. It loses top grip after 5-6 cycles and stays same afterwards. Still faster than 4s, but not same as fresh. Pretty much same as any other racing compound.

On Evo X forum we had a guy who managed close to 2500lbs on Evo X. Tons of drilled holes, titanium everything. But on a mild accident the whole car collapsed completely. I don't think that we have really a lot of option for dual use weight savings. But steel trunk and full size battery are stupid. The rest can be removed beforehand and reinstalled back.

Oh and I got tired of invertors noise driving without rear seats. But this is easy to move out and back.

Bucket seats would break an updates. There is still no solution of passing update on a car without stock seats (even with emulator) - there is an MCU inside each front seat and nobody yet emulated update handshake sequence.

Yeah definitely not looking to compromise safety by drilling holes in the body. That's why I think 200lbs is a reasonable goal.

I actually love the inverter noise FWIW!

Working on a full solution for the seats. Certainly cannot have it break firmware updates.
 
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Good stuff man, theres always room for weight reduction. It just depends on what you want in and from the car. In the Evo world we have a huge threads and lists in what can be done. I hope to dig in looking for heavy parts that can be made lighter once I clear out the current Evo project list and start on the Tesla fun.

As we pull out stock stuff we'll makes sure to collect all the weights. But if you find some heavy steel bits hidden in there let us know. Thats just opportunity.
 
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Good stuff man, theres always room for weight reduction. It just depends on what you want in and from the car. In the Evo world we have a huge threads and lists in what can be done. I hope to dig in looking for heavy parts that can be made lighter once I clear out the current Evo project list and start on the Tesla fun.

As we pull out stock stuff we'll makes sure to collect all the weights. But if you find some heavy steel bits hidden in there let us know. Thats just opportunity.
Right, that's exactly the spirit of Evo community - look for something heavy and throw it out.