I'm about to start this retrofit and will post photos as I go. Thought I would start by including the Tesla Service Bulletin (found it on the NHTSA website) that gives all the part numbers and instructions.
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when removing the seats for a long road trip, does anyone know if the issue with losing the barrel nut can be solved by simply putting the bolt back in the hole to hold the barrel nut in place until reinstalling the seats?
Hi there, thanks for the reply... yes, I read that bulletin a few days ago... the issue I have is my seats were always installed and I can't tell if the nut will misalign from the hole once I remove the nut... or is the track sufficient to hold in the barrel nut in place to simply be able to rescrew the bolt back in without being able to hold the nut in alignment with my finger? the document seems to have a lot of area exposed for access... I'm just hoping I can screw out and screw back in? Does this make sense? Super difficult to describe for me in writing it out....
If this is the case... this would likely mean that most people lose the barrell nut by removing the bolt and not reinserting it, and then driving around and having it move within the track losing alignment over time...
If this is the case... this would likely mean that most people lose the barrell nut by removing the bolt and not reinserting it, and then driving around and having it move within the track losing alignment over time...
HankLloydRight
No Roads
I sold my RFS back in 2014, but we didn't realize there were retaining nuts back there. The buyer called me up and asked me to retrieve them. Only one was still there. The other must have fallen deep into the recesses of the body structure. I tried several different methods of magnets on rods and strings to try and retrieve it, but no luck. He ended up fabricating one himself.
Also, just a note -- if people are selling their RFS to someone without RFS, and you're local, you also might want to swap out the interior carpet/trim pieces which have the cutouts for the bolts and hold-downs. I was able to swap in the buyer's interior parts without the cutouts, so it was a clearer look back there, and the buyer doesn't have to cut up his own parts to install the RFS.
Also, just a note -- if people are selling their RFS to someone without RFS, and you're local, you also might want to swap out the interior carpet/trim pieces which have the cutouts for the bolts and hold-downs. I was able to swap in the buyer's interior parts without the cutouts, so it was a clearer look back there, and the buyer doesn't have to cut up his own parts to install the RFS.
I'm very interested in how this goes. Please update with as much detail on the install as you can!
Just heard back from the local service center. They refused to fill my parts request for the small parts needed to complete the installation. Waiting to hear back from the manager now. They initial response is that only authorized body shops can have structural parts. Not clear which part or parts has been labelled structural.
Does anyone know what the instructions mean by a "first generation rear node" or "second generation rear node" and how I can tell which I have?
Does anyone know what the instructions mean by a "first generation rear node" or "second generation rear node" and how I can tell which I have?
Akikiki
A'-Lo-HA ! y'all
I'm not surprised that they refuse your parts request. Besides authorized body shops, there are some parts and this applies to the RFS cars, that can't be purchased unless your VIN had the RFS from the factory. I don't know the specific policy that dictates this, but some parts can only be purchased if your car had had them from the factory in the first place.
AMPUP
Member
Nope, that is the bumper that every car has not the extruded aluminum reinforcement bar that needs to be added for RFS.
It should be non-painted. You can see a picture of it on the bottom of page 7 of the instructions. (It goes under the bumper that you linked to on eBay.)
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From the parts that are different I would say it is the inside of the rear wheel wells. (Look on page 20-21 where they show installing the strikers.)
AMPUP
Member
Yep you're correct (I rushed my search), what's needed is the one that goes underneath that... its that piece that they probably wont sell and want a bodyshop to install.
I did hear back from them, and the guesses above are correct that they are withholding the rear crossmember 1015811-S0-B as being "structural". Seems odd, as people have reported buying them just to have the extra impact protection. Anyway, something else to look for. Seems some service centers will sell them (or would) and some don't. I asked them to leave that out and complete the order for the other little pieces parts. Waiting to get a confirmation.
You may consider calling and asking a different location's service person or even your salesperson for an extra cool cat service person... if he has in inside person that will do an unusual request, you may be able to pull it off.
I was able to order a figured ash center console (similar to the model X) before they offered it as part of the PUP for the S... and for about 3 months... I had a one of a kind interior (for an S)!!
The cross member is definitely a different matter but I would still try... especially because they just ordered the part for a different car and then switched it to something generic like a loaner at the end of the day... I think ordering the piece for a different car would be possible with a more flexible service person.
If that doesn't work, try flattery, subtle bribery, and showing a little leg to the right service rep .... I only have 2 restraining orders on me at my local service location... but WORTH IT because that figured ash console is sweeeeeet!
I was able to order a figured ash center console (similar to the model X) before they offered it as part of the PUP for the S... and for about 3 months... I had a one of a kind interior (for an S)!!
The cross member is definitely a different matter but I would still try... especially because they just ordered the part for a different car and then switched it to something generic like a loaner at the end of the day... I think ordering the piece for a different car would be possible with a more flexible service person.
If that doesn't work, try flattery, subtle bribery, and showing a little leg to the right service rep .... I only have 2 restraining orders on me at my local service location... but WORTH IT because that figured ash console is sweeeeeet!
HankLloydRight
No Roads
Started work. Emptied the junk out of the trunk and removed the main trunk carpet and footwell carpet. Discovered so far that about 25% of the trim clips are missing or broken. Very disappointing. Found the factory wiring taped out of the way for the left and right rear interior lights - I had bought a whole set of AO LED interior lights, so two of those will go to improving the trunk lighting.
Discovered the soundproofing on both the left and right side carpeted panels had come unglued and fallen into the body cavity, blocking both the rear vents. Which brings me to the rear vents - Each side has one way flapper valves to allow air flow out of the car. Perhaps other people with poor ventilation also have those vents blocked by unglued-soundproofing? Anyway, this is probably why Tesla says putting the car on fresh air (instead of recirculate) helps with 3rd row cooling - that extra air being blown into the cabin leaves from the trunk area. Don't know how the air gets behind the trim panel, but perhaps it is worth adding some holes if the air path isn't obvious and open. Will reattach the soundproofing with 3M super trim adhesive that is supposed to be water and heat proof. Hope it works better!
Attached some photos. Nothing tricky yet. Was very happy to find that my car has all 8 studs per side needed to fit the crossmember inside the bumper and has the carpet and trim pre-notched for the cutouts needed for the mounts. (the marks shown were there, I didn't make them). So, check that box, have what is needed. And, no crazy templates needed!
Discovered the soundproofing on both the left and right side carpeted panels had come unglued and fallen into the body cavity, blocking both the rear vents. Which brings me to the rear vents - Each side has one way flapper valves to allow air flow out of the car. Perhaps other people with poor ventilation also have those vents blocked by unglued-soundproofing? Anyway, this is probably why Tesla says putting the car on fresh air (instead of recirculate) helps with 3rd row cooling - that extra air being blown into the cabin leaves from the trunk area. Don't know how the air gets behind the trim panel, but perhaps it is worth adding some holes if the air path isn't obvious and open. Will reattach the soundproofing with 3M super trim adhesive that is supposed to be water and heat proof. Hope it works better!
Attached some photos. Nothing tricky yet. Was very happy to find that my car has all 8 studs per side needed to fit the crossmember inside the bumper and has the carpet and trim pre-notched for the cutouts needed for the mounts. (the marks shown were there, I didn't make them). So, check that box, have what is needed. And, no crazy templates needed!
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By the way... I just want to confirm before I go buy the torx wrench... exactly what size is that again?
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