No idea what happened. In my garage I removed the charger from my Model 3, I entered the car. The screen was black. Nothing happened. I thought "how strange". I used my card key to start the car - Nothing. I opened my Tesla App on my iPhone and it said "Waking Up" and the dial was circling and circling and never woke up. I tried to exit the car - the door would not open. I had to utilize the emergency exit lever. Completely dead. The battery had been charged 80% to 233 miles. No signs of any problems. No warning signs. Nothing. Just completely dead. I contacted Tesla Roadside Service, but they claimed that since there are no prior warnings they do not believe it is the 12 Volt battery that I had heard could completely shut down a Tesla. They are urging me to tow the car to the closest Tesla Service Center. ANY THOUGHTS?
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My Model 3 Died - Full Shutdown
- Thread starter timetraveler85
- Start date
Solarman004
Member
You are still able to access the frunk using the front port and a battery to release the latch. From there I suggest you disconnect the 12 V battery, charge it while it's still in the car, then reconnect and see if the car wakes up. There are many good YouTube videos on accessing the 12 V battery.
This forum is full of stories of 12 V battery failure with no warning. I would not let the lack of a warning message dissuade you from checking the battery.
Be careful opening any doors if your windows are up. With no power, the windows will not drop to clear the trim when you open.
If you can get into the back door, right side, it's a good idea to disconnect the high voltage connector that charges your 12V battery. It's under the seat- gray connector that lifts out when you slide down the locking tab. After charging the 12V, reconnect the 12V, then reconnect the high voltage connector.
Good luck. Let us know how it turns out.
This forum is full of stories of 12 V battery failure with no warning. I would not let the lack of a warning message dissuade you from checking the battery.
Be careful opening any doors if your windows are up. With no power, the windows will not drop to clear the trim when you open.
If you can get into the back door, right side, it's a good idea to disconnect the high voltage connector that charges your 12V battery. It's under the seat- gray connector that lifts out when you slide down the locking tab. After charging the 12V, reconnect the 12V, then reconnect the high voltage connector.
Good luck. Let us know how it turns out.
OMG. This sounds like great suggestions, but I don't believe I have the ability to do all of these things. Could AAA Roadside help with this? Do I need a special 12 Battery Charger? Why is it important to disconnect the high voltage connector? You sound very knowledgeable...too bad you aren't in Orange County, CA. I will look for some YouTube videos to see if these procedures are explained in detail. Many thanks. Otherwise, I will incur a $220 tow to the Tesla Service Center.
pnwadventures
@bpr1de on Instagram
If it were me… I would pop the frunk with a 9V, apply an emergency jump starter as directed,* and then try waking the car by opening the door. If it works, drive to the SC and get a new 12V.
I’d wager a Chipotle burrito bowl that it’s your 12V.
* These things are readily available on Amazon, and are a must-have for bailing you or an unfortunate rando out of a jam. I’ve got one in each car, and have used them to resuscitate ICE and EV alike.
I'd wager two Chipotle Burrito bowls it is the 12v, because here in Vegas we had a heat wave the past week and peoples' batteries are dying left and right. Looks like @timetraveler85 is in LA and they were experiencing the same heat wave (I think they've cooled down now though).
I bet my first born child that it is the 12V battery.
iwannam3
Active Member
stopcrazypp
Well-Known Member
In case you haven't found it yet, here is a guide on Tesla's website on how to jump start a Tesla Model 3:
Do It Yourself - Model 3
I would start there. If it's really a dead 12v battery, like others mentioned, I would keep a jump starter in the car for emergencies (in the frunk as you can pop that with a 9V battery, not sure how you would gain access to cabin). There are now lithium ion ones that are very small (same size as a power bank) which you can buy everywhere (even at Costco).
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iwannam3
Active Member
There are 3 "sudden death" postings on the first page! Heat is a battery killer and a lot of Model 3s are getting batteries with a couple years on them. I proactively swapped out mine at 3 years for $85. That's $30/year, no sense in trying to tempt fate and stretch it out another year. It is a simple lead acid battery with a vent. AGMs and Gels cost more and are sealed. Don't bother looking for a battery, just get it at Tesla. Hopefully we can upgrade to the new Li batteries that are in the S.
If you want a lithium battery like on the new Model S currently on the model 3, you can consider the ohmmu battery.
joebruin77
Active Member
Something similar happened to me last week. Unlike your car, which had zero power, mine had almost no power. I was able to enter the car, but nothing else worked. Screen was dark. Tried doing a reset by pressing both steering wheel buttons, but had no effect. I called Tesla Roadside Assistance and got a jump to the 12v battery. Screen was still dark, but was able to put the car in drive and drove to my local Service Center. I assumed they would replace the 12v battery. But as it turned out, in my case, they said my 12v battery was fine and the problem was the MCU. I had to have my MCU replaced. The car is fine now.
There is a good chance that your 12v battery needs to be replaced. Like others have mentioned, I would have mobile service come out and replace the 12v battery. But if that doesn't fix the problem, you may have to have the car towed to the nearest SC to investigate other causes.
Good luck!
There is a good chance that your 12v battery needs to be replaced. Like others have mentioned, I would have mobile service come out and replace the 12v battery. But if that doesn't fix the problem, you may have to have the car towed to the nearest SC to investigate other causes.
Good luck!
gcardona
Member
I also had no warning when my 12V battery died. After I jump-started the car, however, the "12V battery needs to be replaced" warning showed up.
This sounds like a trick to get rid of parental responsibilities
Solarman004
Member
I'm happy to swing by and help, but it will take me 2 days from Colorado.
Disconnecting the high voltage is not critical if you're uncomfortable doing so. The reason to do it is that as soon as you reconnect the last lead of the 12V battery, the DC-DC converter may immediately begin to try recharging the 12V battery and arc. But, I've seen numerous YT videos of folks replacing their 12V batteries without disconnecting the high voltage lead. It is more important to disconnect both positive and negative leads from the battery before charging it, if the battery is completely dead which I suspect.
Again, YouTube is a good source to see how to pop open the round cover on your left side front bumper, and connect the 2 wires inside to a 9V battery to release the frunk. In CA, I have to believe AAA is familiar with this process, and can charge your 12V battery.
I know this will surprise you, but you can't go to your local auto parts store and find a replacement Tesla battery. You'll have to pick up one at a Service Center.
WallyP
Member
Sounds like 12V battery to me. Roadside was the same unhelpfullness to me. But if you know someone in Mobile Support, then they will come out and install a new one in literally 5 minutes. Do NOT tow it to the Service Center. This is an easy fix.
Just noticed this thread. Very similar to my experience yesterday, except that after the car died the app told me I needed a new 12-v battery. The Ranger is scheduled to come on Monday and install it.
It's been suggested that I could install one myself, but the person suggesting this doesn't know how inept I am. And without wheels, it's easier to wait for the Ranger and have it done right. And she can tell me if there's anything else I should do proactively.
It's been suggested that I could install one myself, but the person suggesting this doesn't know how inept I am.
And without wheels, it's easier to wait for the Ranger and have it done right. And she can tell me if there's anything else I should do proactively.
