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My new Model Y's range SUCKS

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Damn... If you have FSD, I'd enable all of it and see what it does driving you around for a few days. If it too is that high, then yes, you have a problem. If the car achieves better, then let it teach you how to drive more efficiently.
Good luck!

 
Damn... If you have FSD, I'd enable all of it and see what it does driving you around for a few days. If it too is that high, then yes, you have a problem. If the car achieves better, then let it teach you how to drive more efficiently.
Good luck!


Having had a P3 for 15 months and was normally around 250w/mi i know how to drive efficiently, Also when i do use FSD its even higher then when i drive
 
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Assuming you don't have low tire pressure, or are hanging a brake, give it a couple hundred miles to loosen up. I installed TeslaFi 600 miles ago, my Wh/mi is 227 since then. My consumption dropped a lot the first week I had it; I think it takes a little while for the tires and car to break in.
 
This depend where you are located. Here in the PNW, when I crunch the numbers my Tesla in the summer is getting about 125+ mpge .. try finding that in an ICE car.
Yes, for me we pay .068 per kWh and gas cost just shy of 4. So $1 should get me about 50 miles or the equivalent of 180 mpg, ideal. Even half that is 3 times what my Outback gets :)
 
I say "bingo" to myself. Sea level has lots of anti-electric problems: (1) denser air, (2) moisture in air from sea meaning more resistence in the air, (3) usually the sea is cooler, which means, you guessed it, denser air, plus the battery gets suboptimal temperatures and more heat has to be used to heat the battery, and (4) the sea moisture in the air probably water-cools the battery even more thus causing it to be even further too cold and use more energy to heat it.

That still doesn't rule out some problem.

Maybe have a sense of how dense the air is. When you stand outside the car, swoop your arm wave your hand through the air regular-speed (slowly, not too fast) and feel the resistence against your arm hand. If you do that every time, eventually, you'll get a sense of the air denseness at that location at that time (but don't throw your arm socket out doing this; I just tried it with my arm and it felt like my arm was getting ripped out of my body; maybe just lightly swing your arm hand, not very fast, and increase your sensitivity, not your speed; I just tried that slowly with my hand waving through the air slowly, and with my hand against the air, I was able to feel the air thickness without ripping my arm out of my body). You can also stick your arm out of the window while driving, but be careful not to have your arm chopped off by a sign, car mirror, truck, motorcycle, tree, bush, or other road diet menaces (and I've seen my mirror chopped off by passing trucks, cars, signs, bushes, and motorcycles enough to recommend you don't stick anything out the window unless you're on a country road with no signs, vehicles, birds, cows, fence posts, plumbing, bridges, hay bales, rocks, telephone poles, or anything else).
Good points but google the humidity issue, adding humidity reduces drag... Backwards from the intuition...
 
I read the whole thread from start to finish. For a perspective (delivery day on July 29) owner, this is all very interesting.

1. To OP - I am sorry for your struggles. It sounds to me like your car has a problem that isn't being addressed with service appointments. Very disheartening. I hope you get it fixed.

2. A lot of folks on here didn't (appear to) share their tire size when they shared the Wh/mile... but when they did, it seemed like most of the "higher cited" (280, 300, 310, etc) numbers were with 20" or 21" tires... and most of the "high range" (250ish, 260ish, etc) stats came from the 19" gemini wheels...

This will be my first ever EV, and the #1 reason why I opted for the 19" Gemini wheels was range-anxiety... really really hoping that I too end up getting something closer to 250 or 260 than 300 or 310 (and not at the expense of completely turning the A/C off)...
I agree. I am getting my YP today with 21"UT wheels and have ordered 18"x8.5" Martian wheels. I will sell the 21" as soon as I have picked out tires and gotten my wheels. They appear to be a month and a half out yet! I am excited to benchmark the 21's and then see the difference. Then In the winter I will get another set of 18's for some snow tires?
 
I agree. I am getting my YP today with 21"UT wheels and have ordered 18"x8.5" Martian wheels. I will sell the 21" as soon as I have picked out tires and gotten my wheels. They appear to be a month and a half out yet! I am excited to benchmark the 21's and then see the difference. Then In the winter I will get another set of 18's for some snow tires?

Just to circle back on this, and because you quoted me back when I was a perspective owner commenting how a lot of the other input in this thread didn't include wheel size ALONG WITH energy efficiency, I thought I'd add a data point for those that are looking to buy: I've now had my Model Y for 13 days, and I don't have any problems staying below 250 wh/mi (often down in the 230's) on my 19" gemini wheels.

Most of my driving is along 2-lane "country" (hilly Appalachian) roads, FWIW. I have a 10-minute stretch of my commute, each way, on a 4-lane highway with a speed limit of 55 (where I typically drive 62-63), and most of the rest of my commute is along 2-lane roads with a 45 mph speed limit that I typically exceed by 5-10 mph depending on the stretch of road and traffic behind me). If I start romping on the accelerator to enjoy the full capabilities of those dual motors, my efficiency obviously takes a hit...

Range has been good, for me, so far. I don't think I'd get the full 316 miles of range with my normal driving, but something like 242 wh/mi (probably pretty typical for me when I avoid the temptation to romp on it), for something around 72,000 watts of usable battery (I think that's the typical estimate) has me landing at something like 297ish miles of range based on the efficiency I'm seeing and the 72 kW assumption? That feels right to me. I'm seeing 17% battery drain when driving my "normal 44 mile round-trip commute," with the car spending 11-12 hours out in the hot sun while I'm in the office, with typical high-temperature-protection occassionally running and sentry mode enabled... so I think I'm getting something close to what would be "reasonable to expect real-world" when the EPA rating (kinda "unreal") is 316. I'm happy so far in terms of how the battery is performing.
 
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I have a brand new Y PUP on 21" UT wheels. I just went 190 miles out and back on an expressway and got 75% of the published range. This was at 74-75 mph and with Tires at 44psi and 3 people in the car. It was just what I expected. Left home at 90% and returned home at 4%. The navigation asked me to go 70mph to get home but I ignored it and pressed on at 75 and made it home very nicely. All I can say is it worked great. I did not have the 'normal' punch on acceleration once I was discharged. I noticed the Battery voltage was down around 280V and less when I pushed the go pedal in the discharged state. Very fun!! I will repeat the exercise on my 18x8.5 wheels when they show up. I still have to pick out tires to go on them though. I am getting more confident though and may skip the high efficiency version of tires as they severely limit my choices while still providing the 101 or greater load rating the car needs...
 
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We have had some customers try the tips from this video a week after delivery and improve their range. The Y being brand new doesn't mean the alignment is good, that's for sure!

Awesome Video! Thanks. My note above was more about my 75mph but here is my tests per your video: This is a new vehical with about 150 miles on it.
8/20/2020
Run 1 40 mph 44 psi all tires.
One trip around my big block with easy acceleration and deceleration. 21-in Uber tires and wheels model y performance no cargo. One person. 74F outdoors no wind
result 201 watt hours per mile for the trip. Stopping mode hold.
after Run 1
Left rear rotor 92 left rear tire 94
Right rear rotor 89 right rear tire 92
Right front rotor 86 right front tire 92
Left front rotor 86 left front tire 92

Run 2 50 miles an hour 72 Fahrenheit otherwise the same.
result 241 watt hours per mile
Left rear rotor 93 tire 95
Right rear rotor 90 tire 93
Right front rotor 86 tire 93
Left front rotor 84 tire 96

Run 3 40 miles an hour More brisk accelerations changed stopping mode to roll.
Outdoor temp 71.
I swerved a bit right left before the start of this to deflect the rotors and possibly gap the pads.
204 watt hours per mile
86° road temp
Left rear rotor 89° tire 93°
Right rear rotor 88° tire 90°
Right front rotor 82° tire 89°
Left front rotor 84 tire 93
 
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I have a brand new Y PUP on 21" UT wheels. I just went 190 miles out and back on an expressway and got 75% of the published range. This was at 74-75 mph and with Tires at 44psi and 3 people in the car. It was just what I expected. Left home at 90% and returned home at 4%... I noticed the Battery voltage was down around 280V and less when I pushed the go pedal in the discharged state...

It’s best to avoid discharging the battery to below 5% and also to avoid “punching it” when the SOC is that low.
 
I believe as a new battery it has about 3.5% or more left at "0%" so my 4% is probably more like 7-9% remaining. I only pushed it for science so I could see the soc on the odb data tool! Thanks though.

You can read whatever you want into the information provided by your OBD tool, but when the car’s system warns you to “recharge soon to avoid damaging the battery” (or words to that effect) when the SOC hits 5%, there’s likely a reason for the warning.

Enjoy the car.
 
We have had some customers try the tips from this video a week after delivery and improve their range. The Y being brand new doesn't mean the alignment is good, that's for sure!

So I did your tests, you can see them below. Although the tread temperatures were consistent I found the front wheels had toe out of 4mm of toe out measured at the front of the tire OD vs the rear of the same tire OD. The rear axle did have about the 5mm toe in you indicated. To be clear the front axle is wider at the front than the back by 4mm. I guess it will get an alignment along with some other minor corrections. Have you ever seen this? Do my other temps look reasonable to you?
 
I am at 1800 mi on odometer right now and standard daily commute trip to work chips off 30 miles from my range while being only 20 mi in actual distance. 80% highway at 70-75 mph and 20% in town with 40-50 mph.

Car shows 290 W/mi but I feel that 200 miles out of 90% charge level is "no bueno". What am I missing?
 
I am at 1800 mi on odometer right now and standard daily commute trip to work chips off 30 miles from my range while being only 20 mi in actual distance. 80% highway at 70-75 mph and 20% in town with 40-50 mph.

Car shows 290 W/mi but I feel that 200 miles out of 90% charge level is "no bueno". What am I missing?
Try slowing down to 65 to 70 MPH for a comparison of the Wh/mi. Also, what is the round trip utilization? If could be that you are only looking at the uphill run and not factoring in the return trip in the overall efficiency.

If you like the Wh/mi you get at 65 to 70 MPH but want still greater driving efficiency then try 60 to 65 MPH as the slower you drive your efficiency gets even better. I drove a Chevy Volt before my Model Y, I found that 62 to 63 MPH was about as fast as I would want to drive the Volt if I wanted to maximize my EV range. Of course the Volt could also use gas, best efficiency was achieved by maintained similar speeds but not faster than 70 MPH.
 
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I am at 1800 mi on odometer right now and standard daily commute trip to work chips off 30 miles from my range while being only 20 mi in actual distance. 80% highway at 70-75 mph and 20% in town with 40-50 mph.

Car shows 290 W/mi but I feel that 200 miles out of 90% charge level is "no bueno". What am I missing?

Driving faster in a vehicle (freeway driving) always uses more energy. this is normal but I feel it has been historically distorted by gas cars getting better highway mileage because their in town efficiency is so terrible.

I can get 180-200wh/mile in town driving the model 3, but on the freeway depending on grade, wind, temperature and speed I can end up anywhere between 220 and 270 wh/mile, which is a significant decrease in overall range. Its like, physics or something.

I've said this before: the reality is, Tesla should give a city and highway range. way too many people end up disappointed because of Tesla's pseudo deceptive advertising.
 
I've said this before: the reality is, Tesla should give a city and highway range. way too many people end up disappointed because of Tesla's pseudo deceptive advertising.

They are just advertising as the EPA requires, and everyone else does. And the sticker includes both highway and city numbers... (Maybe Tesla should put both on their web site, but that would confuse people as nobody else is currently doing that.)
 
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