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MY road noise?

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Hi team,

i tried a few simple remedies: Blanket in the frunk, and a a thick one doubled up under the new Tasmanian truck liner.
I honestly think it made a small difference. The main issue is clearly from the wheel wells though and the strange openings above the cubby holes - if you put your head next to the slits/openings and tap on the outside of the car or above the wheels themselves, it's like a drum resonating right into the car.
That said, it seems like some good sound deadening there and completely sealing in that section could make a huge difference. I'm looking for local body shops willing to do it, as that's beyond my DYI time and skills. I'll report back when I make some progress.

The strange openings above the cubby holes are for condensation evaporation. Most vehicles that have rear hatches that I have owned have some type of opening/venting like this.

However, I am very much in agreement with the majority of the noise coming from this area. From Monro's tear-down videos, it is clear that Tesla cut corners insulating the rear. My BMW X5 has a great deal of strategically-placed insulation in these cavities, including both solid and soft foam pieces. Our MYs have two foam cubes ("Teslaracts") lazily placed in the cavity. Nowhere near enough to control sound. I have a high-quality, adhesive sound-deadening kit that I purchased from Eastwood that I never used, so I'm going to pull out the rear carpet and side panels and cover the rear. I'm confident that this will make a huge difference, because when I pull back one of the side panels (they easily snap apart at the top), it is all bare-metal in there.
 
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The strange openings above the cubby holes are for condensation evaporation. Most vehicles that have rear hatches that I have owned have some type of opening/venting like this.

However, I am very much in agreement with the majority of the noise coming from this area. From Monro's tear-down videos, it is clear that Tesla cut corners insulating the rear. My BMW X5 has a great deal of strategically-placed insulation in these cavities, including both solid and soft foam pieces. Our MYs have two foam cubes ("Teslaracts") lazily placed in the cavity. Nowhere near enough to control sound. I have a high-quality, adhesive sound-deadening kit that I purchased from Eastwood that I never used, so I'm going to pull out the rear carpet and side panels and cover the rear. I'm confident that this will make a huge difference, because when I pull back one of the side panels (they easily snap apart at the top), it is all bare-metal in there.

Please share pics and your results!
 
I will - thank you!
The strange openings above the cubby holes are for condensation evaporation. Most vehicles that have rear hatches that I have owned have some type of opening/venting like this.

However, I am very much in agreement with the majority of the noise coming from this area. From Monro's tear-down videos, it is clear that Tesla cut corners insulating the rear. My BMW X5 has a great deal of strategically-placed insulation in these cavities, including both solid and soft foam pieces. Our MYs have two foam cubes ("Teslaracts") lazily placed in the cavity. Nowhere near enough to control sound. I have a high-quality, adhesive sound-deadening kit that I purchased from Eastwood that I never used, so I'm going to pull out the rear carpet and side panels and cover the rear. I'm confident that this will make a huge difference, because when I pull back one of the side panels (they easily snap apart at the top), it is all bare-metal in there.

Does anyone know if there is a good instructional video on how to disassemble the rear trunk area and reassemble it with sound deadening stuff? I’m very hesitant to start ripping apart my car as I am not the most handy person and afraid I might bungle it. Thanks!
 
I took the rear hatch apart and it is actually very easy, there are only two attachments that just won’t pop off but the rear just snap off by applying pressure.

start by taking the top piece off first, this is the U shaped piece that covers the top half of the window on the inside.

The two snaps that you need to remove are attached to the two ends of the larger piece that has the speakers, just work off those two and the rest snap right off. One wire is attached that you will need to disconnect when the piece comes off but after that it is off completely and you are free to do whatever you want.
 
A few developments:
After adding blankets to the rear trunk area, I installed the RPM Tesla Sound Deadening rubber seals around the trunk. I've only had time to do the trunk so far, will complete the rest soon.
The car is definitely quieter - the rough pavement transitions on the freeway are less jarring and it's simply a bit quieter. How much? I didn't measure, but noticeable. So I'm thinking if these simple measures can make a difference, there's a lot of potential.
I'm taking it to a shop this week to have them check out pulling out the trunk liner and adding Dynamat type stuff, we'll see how that goes.
I'm also looking forward to the rest of the RPM product around the rest of the car, although wind noise thankfully isn't bad, but it should help.
 
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A few developments:
After adding blankets to the rear trunk area, I installed the RPM Tesla Sound Deadening rubber seals around the trunk. I've only had time to do the trunk so far, will complete the rest soon.
The car is definitely quieter - the rough pavement transitions on the freeway are less jarring and it's simply a bit quieter. How much? I didn't measure, but noticeable. So I'm thinking if these simple measures can make a difference, there's a lot of potential.
I'm taking it to a shop this week to have them check out pulling out the trunk liner and adding Dynamat type stuff, we'll see how that goes.
I'm also looking forward to the rest of the RPM product around the rest of the car, although wind noise thankfully isn't bad, but it should help.
I actually dynamatted the entire trunk area of my Model 3 and honestly don't notice any appreciable difference. I bought the material and did the labor myself so it didn't cost too much but it took many hours and was a pain in the a** for very little impact.
 
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The latest VIN# are having this road/wind noise even now? The store person told that the latest vin#s dont have this wind noise. Is it true or whoever got the latest (may be this month delivery) are having this wind noise when going on a freeway? what is the issue here? Will a new rubber pad help reduce the noise fully? LF suggestions pls.?
 
That's good to hear. So, there is no noise that you see, then why you want to adjust the hatch? Just curious.

Nearly no wind noise. There is some tire noise, and there was a lot of very low frequency buffeting noise before i adjusted the hatch. There is still some low frequency noise I'd love to eliminate, but it's not bad. Maybe if I had wind noise, I wouldn't notice the low frequency!
 
Nearly no wind noise. There is some tire noise, and there was a lot of very low frequency buffeting noise before i adjusted the hatch. There is still some low frequency noise I'd love to eliminate, but it's not bad. Maybe if I had wind noise, I wouldn't notice the low frequency!

Thanks. Do you have the default 19" gemini wheels and do you think getting the 20" induction wheels will resolve that smaller noise too?
 
I am about to get rid of a 2013 MB SL 550 for the Y as i want the gadgets and electric. now I’m thinking the gadget aspect will be cool for a bit and then the creeks and road noise will make me want my other car back...

In reading this it sounds like going from a luxury car to this will let us down after the new/cool aspect is over...
I bet that Mercedes is extremely quiet and luxurious. The Model Y is definitely a cheaper car from that standpoint. You can return it within a week if you don’t like it. Definitely test drive first. All that said, I really like my Model Y. There are zero rattles BTW, but there is road noise in the back at highway speed. Of course the motors are essentially silent, which may exaggerate the effect a bit, but it is easy to notice. The rest of the Model Y is pretty sci fi compared to a 2013 luxury car. It is very swift and willing with acceleration at all sane speeds, and it feels nimble and agile. The tech is extremely advanced and well integrated. It takes a while to learn how to operate it all. Range is the biggest hassle compared to a gas car, mostly because of the sparseness of superchargers relative to gas stations. As for novelty, over the air updates are regular and constantly upgrade the car. Model Y leaves room for improvement, but it also does a bunch of stuff better than any gas car can and ever will. The future is pretty much here.
 
Traded in my Model X today for the Y (non performance). Build quality was great, better than both Model X's i had (2016 & 2018). The Model Y is MUCH more nimble than the X. Much quieter as well. I have zero complaints about road noise and I have had everything from BMW, Lexus, Porsche & Mercedes. I also think the stereo is FANTASTIC! Turn the volume up and it will drown out any road noise.

I can understand going from a pre-Raven S/X to a Y. However, I testdrove a Raven Performance X and a Y back-to-back last Friday along the same loop and the X is way smoother and quieter than the Y. The Y's ride is too choppy for me, coming from a Raven S, and there was a distinct buffeting inside the cabin from the AC airflow around the central screen. There was also a faint whistling from the passenger side mirror on the freeway. The Raven X air suspension is much improved over pre-Raven and I could not believe the night-and-day difference compared to a used 2017 X I test drove a year ago.
 
I actually dynamatted the entire trunk area of my Model 3 and honestly don't notice any appreciable difference. I bought the material and did the labor myself so it didn't cost too much but it took many hours and was a pain in the a** for very little impact.
That’s good feedback. I will get an estimate tomorrow how much it would cost to do that. I would hate to pay a couple grand to get that done and not have it do anything!