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My Tesla Experience So Far

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Apologies if this goes really long (Stephen King once said something about "diarrhea of the word processor" or something like that). Let's get right to it.

I have made many mistakes in the course of owning this vehicle and I will admit full responsibility for matters as we go. While I generally hate getting out of my comfort zone, I also have a curious nature and a propensity to do things "for science!" that is potentially problematic when it comes to the long term upkeep of a sick ride.

2015 Model S 85D (Deep Metallic Blue)

Mistake #1 - doing no research at all before choosing which Tesla to buy other than what was cheap (relative to the crazy at the time, more on that later), near me, pre-approved for financing with zero down payment, and available right then because someone offered to cover my shift at work of I wanted to buy this car and because I had the itch bad I just went for it. If I knew then what I know now I would have tried to find a facelifted S with FUSC if possible (idk how easy they are to find as that information doesn't tend to be shown in car listing), MCU2, ability to FSD, USS, etc.

Sticker price for said 2015 S 85D - $46990

Mistake #2 - I bought my Tesla in March 2022 near the peak of insane used vehicle prices. Needless to say I am pretty far underwater.

Mistake #3 - Long story short, there were two small dents and a gouge that I paid to fix that weren't my fault. Is what it is. $2200

Mistake #4 - A friend of mine has a driveway with a nasty drop off. Parking to the side of the road is not really an option in the winter so brave the drop off against my better judgement, you bet. Cracked radiator with other miscellany, $1200. Now, I just go really slow and precise over that drop off, cross my fingers and pray.

Mistake number #5 - Scratched rear slightly when I was backing it off of ramps at another friend's house due to me going too fast in R, not paying attention to the USS, and his girlfriend's yard being an absolutely chaotic mess (I microscopically dinged my door on an unfortunately placed wagon that I should have seen the same night). Low priority, have yet to fix. Estimated to run $800. I barely notice it nowadays but intend to fix eventually.

Mistake #6 - Worst yet. I was way too overconfident and tried to take a 90 degree turn at much too high a speed in snow. Curbed it, and quite hard. I was extraordinarily lucky and did not scratch or dent the body of the vehicle at all. What I did do was destroy the driver side front wheel, control arm, and drive shaft. With the $800 94 mile tow to the nearest Service Center and the repair running a cool $2400, I'm beginning to get a bit hot under the collar.

Of course, not even two weeks after receiving the car back, my parking brake capped out. For several days I was able to drive around by fighting with the PB using tow mode and a bit of luck. Got it to the Service Center once more $750.

It's been about a month since then. Now one of the light strips for my driver side rear brake light is out, and while I could likely replace it myself, I need to go to the city where the Service Center is anyway in the near future so I figured I'd just schedule another appointment. God knows what this is going to cost, especially if I roll in a fix for the charging port door, which neither opens nor closes reliably.

Also, I left out the part where I ended up in the ditch in a snowstorm and had to tow it out by the control arm because I haven't pulled up the frunk and confirmed if I have a tow eye in there or not, let alone practiced taking off the nose cone. Go slow when the weather is bad kids, real, real slow. I didn't count it as a full mistake because it cost me $0, there was no damage to the vehicle, and with the road conditions what they were something like that can happen easily, though I recognize I should have been going slower (was hardly ripping it up however).

Needless to say, the first year of ownership of this vehicle has been a disaster, mostly my fault. I recognize this and am committed to improving my treatment of this vehicle for my safety and the safety of others.

I share this so that others can avoid the same mistakes I've made.

20220321_122109.jpg
 
Free unlimited supercharging. If you want my opinion, I would be looking for a "unicorn" Model S. They were only manufactured during 2017 after the Autopilot hardware refresh but before they yanked free unlimited supercharging that transfers between owners. They have the potential to have the following following features -

- Free Unlimited Supercharging
-Autopilot Hardware 2, thus FSD capability + Smart Summon
- Facelifted bumper

One thing to keep mind is that these vehicles only come in 75D, P/90D, and P/100D to the best of my knowledge. I may be wrong, so there feel free to correct me if I have wrong info.

thank you. i will look for 2017 with autopilot 2. how can you tell if free unlimited supercharging is included? also, if purchasing from a dealer and not private party, is the car still retain free supercharging?
 
thank you. i will look for 2017 with autopilot 2. how can you tell if free unlimited supercharging is included? also, if purchasing from a dealer and not private party, is the car still retain free supercharging?
I think the only way is to ask the owner or dealer honestly. I know it can be checked in the app but that doesn't help you if the vehicle is not in your possession. It is not usually shown in car listings online.
 
I'm assuming you didn't make claims on any of the various dings and minor incidents. :)

Just out of curiosity, what was your previous vehicle? I have heard complaints that the Model S is "too big" but I never felt that way with mine, though my previous car had been a full-size American sedan (Chevy Impala, which was actually an inch or two longer than the S.)
A 2006 Ford Escape Hybrid (The Jescape - Jalopy Escape). Drove that thing into the ground and was horrible with oil changes et al. Had 168k on it by the time I got the Tesla, drives like it has 1mil on it. When I bought the Tesla, the Jescape still started. It's been sitting in my driveway for 10 months and it doesn't even move now... I will probably end up scrapping that thing because I doubt my dad is going to be able to fix it 🤣🤣
 
Thanks I
I think the only way is to ask the owner or dealer honestly. I know it can be checked in the app but that doesn't help you if the vehicle is not in your possession. It is not usually shown in car listings online.
am talking to a dealer who is saying that it's still enabled .. just not sure if it will last

Also when you say autopilot 2 with fsd capability , does that mean fsd will need to be purchased separately at a later time ? Or does it come enabled ?
 
Thanks I

am talking to a dealer who is saying that it's still enabled .. just not sure if it will last

Also when you say autopilot 2 with fsd capability , does that mean fsd will need to be purchased separately at a later time ? Or does it come enabled ?
My impression is that FSD is a dicey area when it comes to transferring. I would say it might happen but it's far from a guarantee. Best to expect to pay that extra FSD tax and be pleasantly surprised if it's enabled by default.

I checked the below article for information.




Additionally, I bought my Tesla through a dealership and the Free Unlimited Supercharging transferred to me just fine. I did not need to do anything, FUSC was listed as an upgrade in my Tesla app when I linked my car to the app.
 
I am looking to get into a used S instead of a 3.

Seems like you said 2016 facelift is the best year for a used S. What is FUSC ?

I am debating getting a used 2013 which has had battery replaced 3 year warranty vs 2016 which would have 1 year warranty left
I'd definitely keep hands off cars made before 2015. There were many problems such as moisture ingress in the battery and many others. On cars 2015+ most of the "baby" problems were solved..
thank you. i will look for 2017 with autopilot 2. how can you tell if free unlimited supercharging is included? also, if purchasing from a dealer and not private party, is the car still retain free supercharging?
Highly recommend this site for sourcing most of the important Tesla info. Tesla Supercharging FAQ

And regarding FSD, according to last info, Tesla is working on HW 4 now, so it seems even HW 3 is not enough to fully feature the future FSD, nor the older versions... Therefore I purchased an old 85D with 1st gen autopilot and still very happy with it...

Anyway, enjoy this great car, guys ;)
 
As someone who has owned a 2013 and a 2015 I can tell you it is definitely worth it to get the newer model.
My experience with 2013 vs 2015 was opposite. 2015 required more service visits in its first 2 years of life than the 2013 (which I only kept for ~2 years). Anecdotal experience, I know, just like yours. I've had 4 Model S, all of them required service visits immediately after delivery, but after everything is fixed (up to 5 months in my experience) they all held up relatively well. My oldest today is a 2015, and other than the MCU fiasco which has since been resolved by NHTSA by making Tesla do a free replacement (even after warranty, as I just did the recall replacement since my car was at the service center anyways), all is well with the car. Had some wear and tear issues, like needing to repair a door handle (costed me $4 in parts, did it myself), or a rear hatch motor failure (~$150), or a leaky coolant valve (~$200), but other than that is just works.

No Model S, old or new, would take the abuse the OP had thrown at it. Punching a 2023 will leave just as bit a dent as punching a 2015. Curbing a 2023 would actually be more expensive than 2015 due to required AP recalibration after fixing it. Hitting an object on a driveway doesn't make a different if it's an old or new car. Newer cars have their share of problems the older ones did not, such as yellowing screens. New would of course come with warranty and less wear and tear, but would the price difference be more or less than repairs on the old one?
 
I am debating getting a used 2013 which has had battery replaced 3 year warranty vs 2016 which would have 1 year warranty left
Before you jump in the decision have a look here.

I would be looking for a "unicorn" Model S. They were only manufactured during 2017 after the Autopilot hardware refresh but before they yanked free unlimited supercharging that transfers between owners.
Is here a tiny error, didn’t the FUSC stopped in Jan. 2017? So the car’s to look for would be right after the nosecone change and before the date the free period ended…
 
My experience with 2013 vs 2015 was opposite. 2015 required more service visits in its first 2 years of life than the 2013 (which I only kept for ~2 years). Anecdotal experience, I know, just like yours. I've had 4 Model S, all of them required service visits immediately after delivery, but after everything is fixed (up to 5 months in my experience) they all held up relatively well. My oldest today is a 2015, and other than the MCU fiasco which has since been resolved by NHTSA by making Tesla do a free replacement (even after warranty, as I just did the recall replacement since my car was at the service center anyways), all is well with the car. Had some wear and tear issues, like needing to repair a door handle (costed me $4 in parts, did it myself), or a rear hatch motor failure (~$150), or a leaky coolant valve (~$200), but other than that is just works.

No Model S, old or new, would take the abuse the OP had thrown at it. Punching a 2023 will leave just as bit a dent as punching a 2015. Curbing a 2023 would actually be more expensive than 2015 due to required AP recalibration after fixing it. Hitting an object on a driveway doesn't make a different if it's an old or new car. Newer cars have their share of problems the older ones did not, such as yellowing screens. New would of course come with warranty and less wear and tear, but would the price difference be more or less than repairs on the old one?

I didn't specifically mean reliability but I think that usually comes with newer models. I meant the amount of new features they introduced in the first three years.

The big ones are autopilot, dual motors and better seats. They also revised a lot of big ticket items like the battery, motors and sunroof.
 
I didn't specifically mean reliability but I think that usually comes with newer models. I meant the amount of new features they introduced in the first three years.

The big ones are autopilot, dual motors and better seats. They also revised a lot of big ticket items like the battery, motors and sunroof.
We have 2 Model S, AP1 and AP2. I have AP1 which I like to use on my car, my wife has AP2 and she turned it off in the settings as she hates it. Every once in a while when I drive her car, I would try AP2 only to turn it off after behaviors like phantom braking annoy me (and other drivers around me). 2022 Model S stalkless yoke is definitely not better IMO than the older stalked steering wheel. The currently available round wheel is even worse, as it is still stalkless but now your hands are not forced into specific positions. Newer is not always better with Tesla, especially true for cars under a couple of years old - for example latest Teslas don't have parking sensor functionality, a 2013 does. When we bought our 2017 Model S, it didn't have auto wipers or automatic headlights for over a year, while the 2013 and 2015 did from day one. There are of course things which do improve, such as seats, however that is a personal preference too, as even though I personally liked the newer seats better, I've read here from people who preferred the older seats.

So I think this just boils down to "there is no golden rule that older or newer is ALWAYS better". One should always compare products based on their function available and working at the time of purchase, and decide which one they like best, because "better" has to always be qualified "better for whom?", meaning it will be different for different people. I stopped buying Model S after 4, because I honestly don't believe the latest ones are better, for me.
 
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Before you jump in the decision have a look here.


Is here a tiny error, didn’t the FUSC stopped in Jan. 2017? So the car’s to look for would be right after the nosecone change and before the date the free period ended…
thanks - after reading more on this forum i have shelved the idea of getting a 2013 single owner private party 85, even though battery was replaced by tesla and has 3 years battery remaining

so instead of early 2017, (jan - april), the late 2016 is the one to get with the old face? with autopilot 2?
 
Apologies if this goes really long (Stephen King once said something about "diarrhea of the word processor" or something like that). Let's get right to it.

I have made many mistakes in the course of owning this vehicle and I will admit full responsibility for matters as we go. While I generally hate getting out of my comfort zone, I also have a curious nature and a propensity to do things "for science!" that is potentially problematic when it comes to the long term upkeep of a sick ride.

2015 Model S 85D (Deep Metallic Blue)

Mistake #1 - doing no research at all before choosing which Tesla to buy other than what was cheap (relative to the crazy at the time, more on that later), near me, pre-approved for financing with zero down payment, and available right then because someone offered to cover my shift at work of I wanted to buy this car and because I had the itch bad I just went for it. If I knew then what I know now I would have tried to find a facelifted S with FUSC if possible (idk how easy they are to find as that information doesn't tend to be shown in car listing), MCU2, ability to FSD, USS, etc.

Sticker price for said 2015 S 85D - $46990

Mistake #2 - I bought my Tesla in March 2022 near the peak of insane used vehicle prices. Needless to say I am pretty far underwater.

Mistake #3 - Long story short, there were two small dents and a gouge that I paid to fix that weren't my fault. Is what it is. $2200

Mistake #4 - A friend of mine has a driveway with a nasty drop off. Parking to the side of the road is not really an option in the winter so brave the drop off against my better judgement, you bet. Cracked radiator with other miscellany, $1200. Now, I just go really slow and precise over that drop off, cross my fingers and pray.

Mistake number #5 - Scratched rear slightly when I was backing it off of ramps at another friend's house due to me going too fast in R, not paying attention to the USS, and his girlfriend's yard being an absolutely chaotic mess (I microscopically dinged my door on an unfortunately placed wagon that I should have seen the same night). Low priority, have yet to fix. Estimated to run $800. I barely notice it nowadays but intend to fix eventually.

Mistake #6 - Worst yet. I was way too overconfident and tried to take a 90 degree turn at much too high a speed in snow. Curbed it, and quite hard. I was extraordinarily lucky and did not scratch or dent the body of the vehicle at all. What I did do was destroy the driver side front wheel, control arm, and drive shaft. With the $800 94 mile tow to the nearest Service Center and the repair running a cool $2400, I'm beginning to get a bit hot under the collar.

Of course, not even two weeks after receiving the car back, my parking brake capped out. For several days I was able to drive around by fighting with the PB using tow mode and a bit of luck. Got it to the Service Center once more $750.

It's been about a month since then. Now one of the light strips for my driver side rear brake light is out, and while I could likely replace it myself, I need to go to the city where the Service Center is anyway in the near future so I figured I'd just schedule another appointment. God knows what this is going to cost, especially if I roll in a fix for the charging port door, which neither opens nor closes reliably.

Also, I left out the part where I ended up in the ditch in a snowstorm and had to tow it out by the control arm because I haven't pulled up the frunk and confirmed if I have a tow eye in there or not, let alone practiced taking off the nose cone. Go slow when the weather is bad kids, real, real slow. I didn't count it as a full mistake because it cost me $0, there was no damage to the vehicle, and with the road conditions what they were something like that can happen easily, though I recognize I should have been going slower (was hardly ripping it up however).

Needless to say, the first year of ownership of this vehicle has been a disaster, mostly my fault. I recognize this and am committed to improving my treatment of this vehicle for my safety and the safety of others.

I share this so that others can avoid the same mistakes I've made.

View attachment 899949

Buy a nice set of snow tires please? In fact, I'm selling my entire set. Dm me. Much cheaper than continuous repairs. I've had no issues with traction over 6 years with my S.
 
Apologies if this goes really long (Stephen King once said something about "diarrhea of the word processor" or something like that). Let's get right to it.

I have made many mistakes in the course of owning this vehicle and I will admit full responsibility for matters as we go. While I generally hate getting out of my comfort zone, I also have a curious nature and a propensity to do things "for science!" that is potentially problematic when it comes to the long term upkeep of a sick ride.

2015 Model S 85D (Deep Metallic Blue)

Mistake #1 - doing no research at all before choosing which Tesla to buy other than what was cheap (relative to the crazy at the time, more on that later), near me, pre-approved for financing with zero down payment, and available right then because someone offered to cover my shift at work of I wanted to buy this car and because I had the itch bad I just went for it. If I knew then what I know now I would have tried to find a facelifted S with FUSC if possible (idk how easy they are to find as that information doesn't tend to be shown in car listing), MCU2, ability to FSD, USS, etc.

Sticker price for said 2015 S 85D - $46990

Mistake #2 - I bought my Tesla in March 2022 near the peak of insane used vehicle prices. Needless to say I am pretty far underwater.

Mistake #3 - Long story short, there were two small dents and a gouge that I paid to fix that weren't my fault. Is what it is. $2200

Mistake #4 - A friend of mine has a driveway with a nasty drop off. Parking to the side of the road is not really an option in the winter so brave the drop off against my better judgement, you bet. Cracked radiator with other miscellany, $1200. Now, I just go really slow and precise over that drop off, cross my fingers and pray.

Mistake number #5 - Scratched rear slightly when I was backing it off of ramps at another friend's house due to me going too fast in R, not paying attention to the USS, and his girlfriend's yard being an absolutely chaotic mess (I microscopically dinged my door on an unfortunately placed wagon that I should have seen the same night). Low priority, have yet to fix. Estimated to run $800. I barely notice it nowadays but intend to fix eventually.

Mistake #6 - Worst yet. I was way too overconfident and tried to take a 90 degree turn at much too high a speed in snow. Curbed it, and quite hard. I was extraordinarily lucky and did not scratch or dent the body of the vehicle at all. What I did do was destroy the driver side front wheel, control arm, and drive shaft. With the $800 94 mile tow to the nearest Service Center and the repair running a cool $2400, I'm beginning to get a bit hot under the collar.

Of course, not even two weeks after receiving the car back, my parking brake capped out. For several days I was able to drive around by fighting with the PB using tow mode and a bit of luck. Got it to the Service Center once more $750.

It's been about a month since then. Now one of the light strips for my driver side rear brake light is out, and while I could likely replace it myself, I need to go to the city where the Service Center is anyway in the near future so I figured I'd just schedule another appointment. God knows what this is going to cost, especially if I roll in a fix for the charging port door, which neither opens nor closes reliably.

Also, I left out the part where I ended up in the ditch in a snowstorm and had to tow it out by the control arm because I haven't pulled up the frunk and confirmed if I have a tow eye in there or not, let alone practiced taking off the nose cone. Go slow when the weather is bad kids, real, real slow. I didn't count it as a full mistake because it cost me $0, there was no damage to the vehicle, and with the road conditions what they were something like that can happen easily, though I recognize I should have been going slower (was hardly ripping it up however).

Needless to say, the first year of ownership of this vehicle has been a disaster, mostly my fault. I recognize this and am committed to improving my treatment of this vehicle for my safety and the safety of others.

I share this so that others can avoid the same mistakes I've made.

View attachment 899949
You sound like a terrible terrible driver who’s a danger to other people on the street. I truly hope you learned some lessons.
 
Before you jump in the decision have a look here.


Is here a tiny error, didn’t the FUSC stopped in Jan. 2017? So the car’s to look for would be right after the nosecone change and before the date the free period ended…
According to an article I was just reading, apparently it was March of 2017.


It's so hard to keep track of what features these vehicles have. At least for me, figuring out exactly how decked out any certain 2016-2017 Tesla Model S is, is a very confusing prospect. There's cars with and with out the facelift, AP1, AP2, FUSC, non-FUSC, and the smart suspension becoming standardized if I'm not mistaken. It is a lot the take into account and I can see how uninformed I was when I bought my car.
 
According to an article I was just reading, apparently it was March of 2017.

It's so hard to keep track of what features these vehicles have. At least for me, figuring out exactly how decked out any certain 2016-2017 Tesla Model S is, is a very confusing prospect. There's cars with and with out the facelift, AP1, AP2, FUSC, non-FUSC, and the smart suspension becoming standardized if I'm not mistaken. It is a lot the take into account and I can see how uninformed I was when I bought my car.
If I’m not mistaken the date until you was able to get new ordered car with the FUSC was 17/01/2017 and their delivery might have lasted until May 2017. So there is wide range of them that user claim their car’s have it.
2016 was a major milestone for Model S evolution. They ended up using MobilEye for their Autopilot suite (AP1), they came out with first refesh and with new improved hardware for their own Autopilot (AP2) functionalities. And all their lineup was eventually harmonised from this on - these previous extra packages that you had to order as additional features have been now included to the price of cars.
 
Sorry to see you had those issues but I think you did well in at least getting an AWD Tesla.

You should be aware that these third-party companies can help in addition to Tesla with main battery repairs, usually in the $5k range:

www.057tech.com (Offers a main battery warranty)

www.recell-ev.com

Ground clearance is important and the Model S can have a minimum of just under 5 inches if you have air suspension. If you put it at the maximum height of about 6.4 inches, that can help with steep driveways, bumps etc. Perhaps consider replacing your tires also with 19 inch ones at a later point, when ready, if you don't already have those.

I really hope things go better for you from now on! Be careful out there and especially in snow.

Some interesting facts: The Model X can go up to about 8 inches of ground clearance! Also, the Model Y has a standard ground clearance of just under 7 inches.
 
My impression is that FSD is a dicey area when it comes to transferring. I would say it might happen but it's far from a guarantee. Best to expect to pay that extra FSD tax and be pleasantly surprised if it's enabled by default.

I checked the below article for information.




Additionally, I bought my Tesla through a dealership and the Free Unlimited Supercharging transferred to me just fine. I did not need to do anything, FUSC was listed as an upgrade in my Tesla app when I linked my car to the app.

thanks having a hard time finding a 2016-2017 with autopilot 2
 
thanks having a hard time finding a 2016-2017 with autopilot 2
You may not necessarily want AP2. There's always a give and take. Where AP2 gained additional functionality with it's capability for FSD, from what I have heard from people who have owned both, the AP1 cars are superior in terms of their ability to match speed with the vehicle ahead while also maintaining a proper following distance. From what I have heard the newer Teslas are much more aggressive in this regard and are not as "smooth" at operating in stop and go traffic. Perhaps this has to do with the removal of the ultrasonic sensors and the switch to Tesla Vision.

I would personally be OK with lacking AP2/FSD if I still got FUSC, the facelift, and the Smart Suspension. Just me though, and maybe that's why AP2 Cars with FUSC are so hard to find. Perhaps their owners would not like to part with them!