My way of lifting my Model 3… (custom lifting rig)

By my math, while lifting I am about 30% below the stress required to cause permanent deformation of the longitudinal beams (permanent deformation being even, say, 1mm of permanent bend), but significantly below the point of mechanical failure. Of course, stress goes to near zero once the jack stands are in place.

I made it out of 3x3 Hot Rolled Square tubing with 0.120” walls, with all joints seams double-welded. A 20’ stick was $170, and I already had the jack.

(Oh, I’m installing lowering springs and painting the wheels )

Why? Because I could .

 

[Lindenwood]

Yes, your engineering and fabrication skills are above mine, certainly.
How about flat piece of metal with a puck on either end?

The problem is how to get a beam rigid enough to hold ~2100lbs between a 5ft span without deformation while also being able to fit a jack underneath it.

 

[TunaBug]

What is the purpose of the cross pieces? Or to put this another way, could you have built an H instead of a square?

Or do you even need that much? Why not just two separate pieces (the longitudinal pieces), which would be much easier to move and stash in a corner?

 

[SDRick]

The problem is how to get a beam rigid enough to hold ~2100lbs between a 5ft span without deformation while also being able to fit a jack underneath it.

With two jacks placed approximately at the lift points, I would not think it would have to be too thick. Possibly something similar to the flat piece in your design?

 

[BostonBurley]

I just find the four nearest red uppy pumps I can slide under and pitch it high, wideways. I could push it to the charger like that. Wahooooo !! (Jk)

 

[E.Potter]

The problem is how to get a beam rigid enough to hold ~2100lbs between a 5ft span without deformation while also being able to fit a jack underneath it.

drive on a piece of wood sir....for the last part of what you said at least

 

[Occhis]

The problem is how to get a beam rigid enough to hold ~2100lbs between a 5ft span without deformation while also being able to fit a jack underneath it.

This place has every kind of steel you’d ever want made to order, with no minimum quantity. Very reasonable shipping charges.

Order Steel Rectangular Tube Online | All Metals

Select from a large inventory of cut-to-size steel rectangular tubes in various sizes and thicknesses. Save money by ordering material cut to length and shipped directly to your door. The more you buy, the more you save. Buying metals has never been this simple.

allmetalsinc.com

 

[Metaljug]

That's funny yeah lugging things around is a little bit of a pain. It would be super nice to be able to drive in and just lift the car.
These do store pretty nicely and don't take up much room. I also didn't like that they don't have wheels so you drag them on the ground on the paint.
I put casters on mine right away so I could roll them around before destroying the paint.
Looks like it's time for you to add them as well to roll your rig around easily


View attachment 807789

Love the caster Ideal. Do you have a link/guide/video anything to help me implement this idea on my Quickjack? TIA

 

[OliverM3]

Love the caster Ideal. Do you have a link/guide/video anything to help me implement this idea on my Quickjack? TIA

There are a couple designs around. I welded up some angle iron to make the brackets the original design was from a corvette forum that I copied.
It looks like there are much better options then what I followed. I may need to revise my design.

QuickJack Wheel Kits

QuickJack Wheel Kits. 132 likes · 1 talking about this. Custom bracket/wheel kits for your QuickJack lift system

www.facebook.com

 

[Lindenwood]

With two jacks placed approximately at the lift points, I would not think it would have to be too thick. Possibly something similar to the flat piece in your design?

That is a good point! Of course, I would probably be trading 50lb of steel for 50lb of additional jack, but individually they would certainly be easier to move around!

 

[Lindenwood]

What is the purpose of the cross pieces? Or to put this another way, could you have built an H instead of a square?

Or do you even need that much? Why not just two separate pieces (the longitudinal pieces), which would be much easier to move and stash in a corner?

I considered an H, but I worried that if I was only moderately off in my fulcrum estimations it would experience a lot of torsional stress. Of course, I could have made it lighter since the cross bars are each only carrying half the stress, so 1x3s would have probably sufficed.

However, the cross bars are necessary (or at least, some type of arms that reach under the car to act as a pivot point for lifting). Building a square was simple enough for a first shot, and it is very much over built in several dimensions, which did give me some warm-fuzzies.

 

[TunaBug]

However, the cross bars are necessary (or at least, some type of arms that reach under the car to act as a pivot point for lifting).

I feel like I'm probably going to facepalm once you explain that, but I'm still not getting why that's necessary.

 

[Lindenwood]

I feel like I'm probably going to facepalm once you explain that, but I'm still not getting why that's necessary.

Hah, no worries! The location where the jack pad applies its lifting force is offset from the long axis of the longitudinal (fire-aft) bars. Without the cross beams, the longitudinal bars would simply rotate toward the center of the car when I apply force with the jack.

 

[Shay Glass]

View attachment 807613

Uberturbines—my 255s should arrive tomorrow!

5mm front and 16mm rear spacers

Lowered on H&R Coils (supposed to be 1.2” F/R)

Amazon Front Lip

Can you give a link to the front lip?