-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
N2itive Lowering Links for Refreshed LR/Plaid
- Thread starter moonm3
- Start date
Aggmeister2010
Active Member
When you say "Size," are you referring to the socket diameter? Or the overall length from end to end? Something else?
Aggmeister2010
Active Member
Here are the 1st gen ones, for reference. Second gen (16-20) are the same length/specs, just different material. Rear is longer than the front.
Aggmeister2010
Active Member
Interesting. I understand what N2itive guy was saying now.
So the fronts look identical to previous the version, and the rears are shorter than the previous version, still with the sockets 180 degrees opposed.
Can you measure one with a ruler? Seems like a set of 4 of the Blox from the fronts of 2012-2020 would work unless they’re way shorter than 65mm.
Last edited:
WiLz
Member
Here are the comparison photos - lowering links set to +6 mm all around compared to stock (both on Low suspension setting).
See my original post HERE.
See my original post HERE.
Confirmed Plaid factory links are the same as front from pre refresh. I used 2 sets of Blox fronts did 8mm longer in front and 8.75mm longer in rear. Came out perfect dumped it about 1.25ish. Here is the finished product I just threw on my staggered 21's from my 21 Performance 21x10.5 +35 285/30/21 rear and 21x9.5 +28 245/35/21
Attachments
Aggmeister2010
Active Member
Bumping an old thread here - any tips for removing the front OEM links? There isn’t a great spot on the suspension arm for leverage to pop them off, and I’m nervous about just he-manning them. Looks like the ball on the suspension side is metal, right? So unlikely to damage the ball itself by prying? I’m tempted to just cut it in the middle and pop each side off 
For the fronts pop off from the metal side first. Not the from the sensor side or they'll brake.Bumping an old thread here - any tips for removing the front OEM links? There isn’t a great spot on the suspension arm for leverage to pop them off, and I’m nervous about just he-manning them. Looks like the ball on the suspension side is metal, right? So unlikely to damage the ball itself by prying? I’m tempted to just cut it in the middle and pop each side off
I just used my hands to pop it off but it took some work so if you can get one of those fork tools may help.
Got them done. I have a fork from an old Bavauto kit that I just couldn’t tell whether it was big enough to slide over the ball or if I risked breaking the ball off. In the end I was over thinking it - there still wasn’t a good place to lever off so I just used the fork and then used its shaft to lever it off with a screwdriver. Once I got the first one done the rest took a few minutes each. The N2itive links are great - love the fine adjustment and they’re clearly a finely machined piece.
Based on the earlier posts here I started with 6mm front and 7mm rear, and that ended up giving me just under an inch drop. My rear looks a little low so I’ll probably crank those back to 6mm all around.
Pics are on Low.
Attachments
Aggmeister2010
Active Member
Bumping an old thread here - any tips for removing the front OEM links? There isn’t a great spot on the suspension arm for leverage to pop them off, and I’m nervous about just he-manning them. Looks like the ball on the suspension side is metal, right? So unlikely to damage the ball itself by prying? I’m tempted to just cut it in the middle and pop each side off
I unbolted the sensor bracket from the car before trying to get them off so I wouldn’t bend or break the plastic arm.
It’s one 10mm bolt, and gives you a lot more wiggle room.
That’s a good idea - I was focused on the suspension side of things rather than the sensor side and didn’t even look to see if I could pop that off. With the plastic links even the stress of popping them off the suspension side seemed to put a fair amount of torque onto the sensor arm as they bent. The N2itive design is obviously more expensive than a fixed plastic piece but it’s nice having a joint connection that isn’t based on how much plastic can stretch
For those interested, I did my rears at 7mm and that dropped them by about 3/4” (from 28 3/4” ground to fender to 28” even). My fronts were set to 6mm and that was 7/8” (28 7/8” to 28” even). So the rears do drop a little less, mm-per-inch of clearance, although it would probably look good with a square setup too and leaving the rear a little higher. My wheels are a square set of 20x9.5” +40 (OEM front specs) Enkei XM-6 since that’s all I could find to support a decent winter tire given supply issues. I added a 15mm spacer in the rear to bring it slightly more outboard than OEM (7mm). Spacers are Bonoss forged which have nice fitment especially in the rear where the hub ring is a little taller than the front.
Similar threads
