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Nail in Tire

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So I have a nail in my front left tire on my 2015 MS P85D, just off the tread (sidewall) so not repairable. Tire shop says that since its AWD I need to replace all four tires. I think I understand the logic, at least on a conventional ICE AWD vehicle. However, given the the front axle has a separate drive system (motor) from the rear axle, I wonder if I can get away with just replacing two tires (one axle)? Thoughts?
 
I think you have a sound understanding of things.
Whether you can make that sale to the tire shop is another question. Their "rules" are not set up to accommodate varying technologies like an EV with separate drive.
Hopefully you interact with a thoughtful person not someone who just knows what the book says vs. what it means.

That said how different are the tread levels going to be and is frozen precipitation a concern? On ice I might worry about new vs old tire traction and put the new on back.
 
I think you have a sound understanding of things.
Whether you can make that sale to the tire shop is another question. Their "rules" are not set up to accommodate varying technologies like an EV with separate drive.
Hopefully you interact with a thoughtful person not someone who just knows what the book says vs. what it means.

That said how different are the tread levels going to be and is frozen precipitation a concern? On ice I might worry about new vs old tire traction and put the new on back.

Not much snow / ice where I live (an island in Puget Sound) so that's not really an issue, hydroplaning is more of a concern. That said the current tires are in pretty good shape, which is part of why I'd rather not toss all four.
 
You’ll be completely fine replacing two. The tire shop is just blindly grabbing for cash.

On a traditional ICE which is the vast majority of vehicles service places handle replacing all on an AWD is standard practice and a sound rule given the mechanical connection of all 4 tires.

Just because a shop or maybe their parent company had not adopted rules that account for the difference in EV drivetrains yet does not make them dishonest and blindly grabbing for cash.

Be interested to hear what the shop says once the separate drive units is explained.
 
You don't mention the age or tread of the tires, which is the main factor. Are all four matching in wear, and are they low (<=4) or high (>=6) tread depth? That will determine your 1 (500 miles on the tires) v 2 (20k miles and differing wear) v 4 (you'll be buying in a year anyway) tires.
 
On a traditional ICE which is the vast majority of vehicles service places handle replacing all on an AWD is standard practice and a sound rule given the mechanical connection of all 4 tires.

I think the only modern passenger car AWD system where you could still reasonably claim “the mechanical connection of all 4 tires” is Subaru’s.
 
The way I’ve gotten around this in the Puget sound is to jack up the car remove the two tires that need to be replaced (one with nail) and another with less tread than the last two. Take those two tires in. Just the tires and ask for new tires. They’ll replace them with no issue because they aren’t mounting them on the vehicle. Then put them back on your car.
 
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Thanks for the advice and council! Last question.... I rarely do launches, more often punching it in passing situations. My existing tires (Mich. Primacy) have ~1/4 inch tread left. Which tires tend to wear more quickly, front or rear axle? I'll put the new tires wherever more wear is likely.
 
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Thanks for the advice and council! Last question.... I rarely do launches, more often punching it in passing situations. My existing tires (Mich. Primacy) have ~1/4 inch tread left. Which tires tend to wear more quickly, front or rear axle? I'll put the new tires wherever more wear is likely.

Great question. I asked this when I first got my car, and the answers were mixed. Rightly so, as Its pretty darn even in my experience. The fronts wear on the outside edges a little more due to being steering tires; especially if some squealing occurs while cornering :) And the rears wear more on the inside edges; especially if you drive on low to prevent the head shake during rapid acceleration. Rotation is still required because of this, but as far as the centres of the tread it is pretty even. The better question is which end do you want the best rain traction?
 
When I had a nail in a tire and went to Tesla for replacement, the shop replaced just one, not two.
Why, or maybe when, are two needed? What criteria? In my case, the tire that had the nail had 7200 miles on it. The invoice shows the other three tires had 6/32 of tread depth and listed the new one as 7/32.
 
Thanks for the advice and council! Last question.... I rarely do launches, more often punching it in passing situations. My existing tires (Mich. Primacy) have ~1/4 inch tread left. Which tires tend to wear more quickly, front or rear axle? I'll put the new tires wherever more wear is likely.
Several points:
Tread depth is measured in 32nds. Your 1/4 is 8/32: almost no tread wear or you did not use a caliper and is inaccurate - also should measure across tread in 3 places.

Tesla handled tires on my 2015 P85D, two nails, two incidents, two different ways ( note I have square 21’s and a second set of staggered 21’s.

On squares tires with 6/32 all around and nail: two new on front.
On staggered set of tires with 8+ /32 all around and less than 1000 miles, nail one in rear, one new rear.

My lesson: I recommend when buying new tires get road hazard insurance like from tire rack. Since I ride on 21’s, next car will order with 19, replace immediately with 21 wheel with Michelin mileage wear warranty (30k!) and vendor road hazard even on their best performance tire.
 
Several points:
Tread depth is measured in 32nds. Your 1/4 is 8/32: almost no tread wear or you did not use a caliper and is inaccurate - also should measure across tread in 3 places.

Tesla handled tires on my 2015 P85D, two nails, two incidents, two different ways ( note I have square 21’s and a second set of staggered 21’s.

On squares tires with 6/32 all around and nail: two new on front.
On staggered set of tires with 8+ /32 all around and less than 1000 miles, nail one in rear, one new rear.

My lesson: I recommend when buying new tires get road hazard insurance like from tire rack. Since I ride on 21’s, next car will order with 19, replace immediately with 21 wheel with Michelin mileage wear warranty (30k!) and vendor road hazard even on their best performance tire.
I see we could be neighbors..so when I order my tires from tire rack..can you put them on? Just Kidding , but obviously it is a DIY project, yes?
 
so I have this issue with a nail in teh tire - I'm pretty sure only one tire is needed as I have less than 5000 miles on all 4 tires (AWD Model S) and recently replaced.

Service nearby has NO appts till 12/23 - what can I do - mobile service / roadside says since tire is holding 35-40 PSI (I have to top it up weekly right now) - ok to keep driving like that but i have a 25+ miles one way freeway commute.

Has anyone bought a spare tire for a model S? I'm starting to think it might be a good idea to have one around for this sort of thing. I'm pretty handy and I could swap a tire out (i've done it before) - I have an air compression lug nut wrench and everything but my jack doesn't go low enough. I have the tesla jack adapter too. Any jack recommendations?


EDIT : this jack from costco seems like a good deal - would it work for a model s?

https://www.costco.com/3-ton-profes...and-steel-service-jack.product.100222458.html
 
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so I have this issue with a nail in teh tire - I'm pretty sure only one tire is needed as I have less than 5000 miles on all 4 tires (AWD Model S) and recently replaced.

Service nearby has NO appts till 12/23 - what can I do - mobile service / roadside says since tire is holding 35-40 PSI (I have to top it up weekly right now) - ok to keep driving like that but i have a 25+ miles one way freeway commute.

Has anyone bought a spare tire for a model S? I'm starting to think it might be a good idea to have one around for this sort of thing. I'm pretty handy and I could swap a tire out (i've done it before) - I have an air compression lug nut wrench and everything but my jack doesn't go low enough. I have the tesla jack adapter too. Any jack recommendations?


EDIT : this jack from costco seems like a good deal - would it work for a model s?

https://www.costco.com/3-ton-profes...and-steel-service-jack.product.100222458.html

What is keeping you from taking your car to literally any tire shop to have it either patched or replaced?
 
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