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Near annual replacement of 12V battery is typical according to Tesla Service Tech

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I didn't see a 12V battery listed.
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2 months ago, I had the 12V battery replaced. Last month, I get the Service car, which was the power switch. Last week, a charging error occurred, and left my wife stranded, Yesterday i got the "12V Battery Needs Service" warning again. My wife has lost trust in this car. I am a loosing confidence in this car as well. I would no longer buy a car that is not under a factory warranty (CPO or new)

The factory battery is the same basic battery that came in the first two generation Miatas. On the Miata, it is located in the trunk. On average, due to not being in a high heat environment, those batteries last 10 years. I have to think Tesla had this in mind. There is something in this design that is destroying these batteries.

It is time Tesla lets the local shops service these cars. My nearest service center, 2 hours away has a 2 week backlog. If they don't go to a Franchise dealer program when the Model 3 is mass produced, they will not be able to service them. That may be the fall of the company.

John
 
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2 months ago, I had the 12V battery replaced. Last month, I get the Service car, which was the power switch. Last week, a charging error occurred, and left my wife stranded, Yesterday i got the "12V Battery Needs Service" warning again. My wife has lost trust in this car. I am a loosing confidence in this car as well. I would no longer buy a car that is not under a factory warranty (CPO or new)

The factory battery is the same basic battery that came in the first two generation Miatas. On the Miata, it is located in the trunk. On average, due to not being in a high heat environment, those batteries last 10 years. I have to think Tesla had this in mind. There is something in this design that is destroying these batteries.

It is time Tesla lets the local shops service these cars. My nearest service center, 2 hours away has a 2 week backlog. If they don't go to a Franchise dealer program when the Model 3 is mass produced, they will not be able to service them. That may be the fall of the company.

John
This is so contrary to my experience. 75k miles over two Teslas and 3 years of ownership, never had an issue with the 12v battery, not once. I have to believe there is some common denominator in daily usage scenarios that makes one owner more likely to have issues than another. I've always had this sneaking suspicion that regular daily driving of near to 100 miles and/or the addition of an aftermarket sub that pulls off the 12v is causing some side benefit to the 12v being constantly kept happy with charging/discharging.
 
Maybe it's location. Jdcorbitt3 is in FL and you're in OH. Heat kills lead acid faster.
The frunk does not get any hotter than than the trunk in the Miata. My Florida Miata batteries have lasted 10 years. My family currently has 6 Miatas (cousins, uncles nephews ect)

Hector, from the Orlando service center came up with a battery under "Good will." He thinks my power switch could have destroyed the battery. The battery that came out had a resting voltage at 11V, It was either defective or destroyed.

I am hoping my issue is resolved, but, i think there is a system issue that is destroying these batteries. AGM batteries are not supposed to be charged at a high current. I suspect these batteries are getting hit with a lot of current on power up.

John
 
AGM can handle a high discharge rate. They are sensitive to over voltage. 13.5v or 2.25v/cell as opposed to 14.4v or 2.4v/cell. It is my understanding that a high current charge can also damage them.

These numbers vary with temperature and the cutoff for AGM is around 120° f.

I am going to monitor my voltage as best as I can.

John
 
Oh man, I'm so sorry to hear this, that 12v was the original one until the first replacement you had done. Hopefully they solved the problem with the switch and you'll be good again for a long time!
I am hoping that battery was defective. I am afraid it wasn't. We will see in another couple months. For now, I think our longer trips will be with ICE.

The Orlando stepped up quick and replaced the battery the same day I called them.

John
 
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The DC/DC converter keeps the battery within a specified voltage range whether or not the car is "on". The problem seems to be that the battery is undersized for the constant vampire drain of the vehicle so it can see excessive cycling.

I am thinking a hybrid battery with a bank of super capacitors with a LiFePo battery may be the solution. The primary charge cycling would be on the Capacitors.

John
 
13.5v or 2.25v/cell as opposed to 14.4v or 2.4v/cell. It is my understanding that a high current charge can also damage them.
My Odyssey AGM's actually specify a higher current for optimal charging

To fully charge a 31-PC2150 and 31-800 battery that is routinely discharged deeply,
a minimum of 40 amps are required with charger voltage within the range of 14.1V
to 14.7V. It is imperative not to exceed 15.0V as this will cause the pressure valves
to open and out-gas hydrogen, oxygen and water from inside the battery. This will
shorten the life of the battery and cause premature failure. Some portable chargers
exceed 15.0V, especially two-wheel garage chargers, so charging voltages should
be verified by measuring the charging voltage during the time when the charging
amperage is reducing from full output. The deep cycle charging voltage must be
within 14.1V minimum to 14.7V maximum.

http://www.odysseybattery.com/documents/US-ODY-OM.pdf