Obviously you have had other packs before and I have had several 90 and 85 batteries. One thing I noticed with your pack, is that it was by far the most accurate in terms of range. That it literally could almost go mile to mile with the rated range. It was closer to 90% but I really noticed it when I did a road trip and the supercharger I always stopped at was closed for maintenance. Do you feel like the pack you have now is by far... and I mean far more accurate in terms of you getting the range it says it does? It really did seem like a 100 battery and even though it couldn’t match a 100 batteries kw it could 0-60mph. I know it probably wouldn’t have in the 1/4 mile but I never took it to a track to find out. Anyways can you tell any difference between the accuracy of it and the range it displays to others you have had?
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Nearly brand new 90 kWh Non-Ludicrous battery pack, v3 - LIMITED TIME
- Thread starter wk057
- Start date
Obviously you have had other packs before and I have had several 90 and 85 batteries. One thing I noticed with your pack, is that it was by far the most accurate in terms of range. That it literally could almost go mile to mile with the rated range. It was closer to 90% but I really noticed it when I did a road trip and the supercharger I always stopped at was closed for maintenance. Do you feel like the pack you have now is by far... and I mean far more accurate in terms of you getting the range it says it does? It really did seem like a 100 battery and even though it couldn’t match a 100 batteries kw it could 0-60mph. I know it probably wouldn’t have in the 1/4 mile but I never took it to a track to find out. Anyways can you tell any difference between the accuracy of it and the range it displays to others you have had?
HankLloydRight
No Roads
Tyler, with all due respect and absolutely no offense intended, it's really hard to follow your posts. They are very much "stream of consciousness" and while it sounds like you may know what you're talking about, it's just really hard to follow whatever point or points you're trying to make, or what SPECIFIC questions you are asking.
I've tried following your long 'wall of text' posts in the past, and I've tried answering them, but I'm giving up. If you want to make a point, or want to ask a specific question, please try to be concise. Thank you.
aerodyne
2 of 3 EV's - Defect Free!
That is an amazing nugget there. FUSC could actually pay for pack replacement if enough miles were driven, as opposed to a newer car....I hope there are still 90 packs around when I need one..
From what I have read, you wouldn't be limited to only 90KWH packs as the 100KWH packs are physically compatible with all the S's. There might be little pieces that need updated, but no big deal. So you could potentially get a 75KWH or a 100KWH pack, and yes, it is definitely cheaper than buying a whole new car. The only real question is when will Tesla decide this market is worth trying to tap like they did with putting new batteries in Roadsters. Only time will tell.
Just be aware that it might impact your 8 year unlimited mile warranty. I wouldn't expect Tesla to do anything with your battery after this. If you are OK with that risk, or the warranty is up, then I would chat with the various companies.
@EV-Fixme
might be able to do it. I don't know their setup or pricing though. WK057 is well setup for it though because he resells the modules out of the retired pack and can make the upgrade a reasonable price. Maybe start a thread and see what turns up?
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HankLloydRight
No Roads
Definitely contact w057 -- instead of trying to find a local shop to do it, it's really really easy to have your car shipped to his NC location and shipped back. He arranges everything with his transport network, you just meet the driver to load (and unload) your car. To ship my car from CT to NC was about $650 each way -- way cheaper than trying to arrange car shipping myself. For the outbound run, my car was in a covered box truck with a Corvette, a Porsche, and a McLaren. On the return it was on a regular exposed car carrier, but I had absolutely no problems or issues.
It absolutely voids the battery warranty.
Also, AFAIK, doing these battery upgrades are probably not possible if you've already upgraded to MCU2.
Sig72
Member
why are battery swaps not possible on MCU2 cars?
I would ideally like to put a 90kwh pack in my Sig P85, but I'd also like to do the MCU2 upgrade as well. Porque no los dos?
I would ideally like to put a 90kwh pack in my Sig P85, but I'd also like to do the MCU2 upgrade as well. Porque no los dos?
HankLloydRight
No Roads
I know a few places, one in NorCal, will have to look for the name, another I believe in Arizona can do it, called Gruber. They have a ton of experience on Tesla’s (mainly the roadster) but they have been doing some Model S’s now. I would say that they would be the most experienced besides a select few, like the OP and others who don’t really advertise their services for a reason.
I know there are a lot people on the west coast that are more than capable, they just aren’t the easiest to locate. Many times looking for someone who makes EV conversions are the ones who can easily perform this, since they are doing complete ice too ev conversions.
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There's not many people with the knowhow to do these swaps correctly, as in all of the software and hardware changes needed to truly upgrade the vehicle.
I've done quite a few of these upgrades, and pretty much have it down to a good routine. There's a lot of "gotchas" we've run into over the years, and a lot of things that most folks thinking they can handle this have run into only to be stuck dead in the water part way through. We've fixed at least two upgrades botched by third parties, including cross-country vehicle shipping from west-coast states.
Long story short, unless whoever you're thinking of using to do an upgrade has definitely and successfully done the exact same upgrade before (like 60 to 90 or 75D to 100D, etc), I'd suggest not being the guinea pig because it's likely to result in some major headaches. There's a lot of caveats to do this right, and very few people understand it well enough to do so correctly. Like variations in pack type with cars with or without air suspension... done incorrectly, you'll end up with premature tire wear.
There's a specific company that I won't name who's come up every time I've talked about Tesla battery upgrades/repairs/etc... seems they're spreading based on a few popular YouTube videos on the topic that are actually filled with a lot of misinformation on the subject that seems to be geared towards luring people in for unnecessary "repairs" at huge profits for them. They have been mentioned here as well on this forum a bunch of times. I'll point out that one of the botched upgrades we took on for a customer was started by this company. So... yeah.
Anyway, we have customers doing upgrades all the time. We do one or two per month nowadays now that a lot more packs are coming out of warranty. I actually almost almost try to talk folks out of them, too, since to me the upgrades seem kind of silly when you could sell the car and buy something new with everything upgraded.... but we still get a lot of people wanting them regardless. The only upgrades that I won't do anymore are rear-wheel-drive upgrades to a 100 pack, because there's no standard firmware for this and it causes other headaches. Everything else is doable one way or another. For every upgrade we actually do, probably 10 people are turned off from the idea either from sticker shock or realizing a sell/trade path may be better.
We're definitely in a unique position to offer the most reasonably priced pack upgrades/replacements possible in most cases. A caveat to that is the original 60 packs... at this point most of these are well beyond our degradation threshold for module resale, so we have to price things accordingly. If your car gets 140 miles at 100% charge, we're not going to be able to recoup the costs from your core pack like we can with an 85 that gets 250 miles, so your upgrade cost would be higher.
For folks with what appears to be excessive degradation or other pack issue, I'm planning on making a device to collect pack diagnostic data, for people serious about an upgrade, which we can ship to them for a deposit so we can come up with a net cost for an upgrade that fits the specific cases. For the most part we can price things over the phone.
That said, I may have an upgrade deal coming up (100 kWh Q1'2020 ludicrous capable 1700A pack), if any dual motor folks are interested. Would personally like to see this go a 2014-2015 P85D owner.
I've done quite a few of these upgrades, and pretty much have it down to a good routine. There's a lot of "gotchas" we've run into over the years, and a lot of things that most folks thinking they can handle this have run into only to be stuck dead in the water part way through. We've fixed at least two upgrades botched by third parties, including cross-country vehicle shipping from west-coast states.
Long story short, unless whoever you're thinking of using to do an upgrade has definitely and successfully done the exact same upgrade before (like 60 to 90 or 75D to 100D, etc), I'd suggest not being the guinea pig because it's likely to result in some major headaches. There's a lot of caveats to do this right, and very few people understand it well enough to do so correctly. Like variations in pack type with cars with or without air suspension... done incorrectly, you'll end up with premature tire wear.
There's a specific company that I won't name who's come up every time I've talked about Tesla battery upgrades/repairs/etc... seems they're spreading based on a few popular YouTube videos on the topic that are actually filled with a lot of misinformation on the subject that seems to be geared towards luring people in for unnecessary "repairs" at huge profits for them. They have been mentioned here as well on this forum a bunch of times. I'll point out that one of the botched upgrades we took on for a customer was started by this company. So... yeah.
Anyway, we have customers doing upgrades all the time. We do one or two per month nowadays now that a lot more packs are coming out of warranty. I actually almost almost try to talk folks out of them, too, since to me the upgrades seem kind of silly when you could sell the car and buy something new with everything upgraded.... but we still get a lot of people wanting them regardless. The only upgrades that I won't do anymore are rear-wheel-drive upgrades to a 100 pack, because there's no standard firmware for this and it causes other headaches. Everything else is doable one way or another. For every upgrade we actually do, probably 10 people are turned off from the idea either from sticker shock or realizing a sell/trade path may be better.
We're definitely in a unique position to offer the most reasonably priced pack upgrades/replacements possible in most cases. A caveat to that is the original 60 packs... at this point most of these are well beyond our degradation threshold for module resale, so we have to price things accordingly. If your car gets 140 miles at 100% charge, we're not going to be able to recoup the costs from your core pack like we can with an 85 that gets 250 miles, so your upgrade cost would be higher.
For folks with what appears to be excessive degradation or other pack issue, I'm planning on making a device to collect pack diagnostic data, for people serious about an upgrade, which we can ship to them for a deposit so we can come up with a net cost for an upgrade that fits the specific cases. For the most part we can price things over the phone.
That said, I may have an upgrade deal coming up (100 kWh Q1'2020 ludicrous capable 1700A pack), if any dual motor folks are interested. Would personally like to see this go a 2014-2015 P85D owner.
aerodyne
2 of 3 EV's - Defect Free!
Not sure what EPA rated is for 14 P85, but if it is 265 new, I think that 5% degradation is normal. 90s might have higher range, but degrade quickly to about the 85 range.
Best cure for range issues is drive down lower, below 20%. You are not going to hurt the pack even if you go to zero per latest guidance.
If nervous about doing this get SMT. It will show you if you are approaching the cut off of 3 VPC, as well as power limit.
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