Does the clicking happen when you turn your steering wheel? That was one of my issues as well and I could hear it both inside the car and coming from the frunk when the window was down. It took them 4 attempts to fix it and the issue ended up being the front subframe assembly skid plate. Turns out the SC had previously attempted to band aid the issue by putting "anti-friction tape" on the contact point which made the noise go away for a while but once it was worn through after a couple of hours the noise came back. I guess after 4 times with the same issue they finally decided to replace the whole thing and sure enough no more clicking, of course I haven't driven the car since the fix was done cause of the shudder but still it was nice and quiet on the last drive home Friday.
No hate from me. My Model S tale isn't quite as woeful as yours... but still totally unacceptable. Above all else, the Tesla SC attitude and communication is worse than what I'd expect at a Walmart. If these folks are so miserable with their job - time to find another employer.
I'm not an attorney nor do I know the ins and outs of the CA Lemon Law but I would imagine the basis for any Tesla defense is going to be the addition of aftermarket wheels. I'd get the car back to stock ASAP and see then if the issues continue. At least that would eliminate one of the excuses Tesla might use. Good luck.
Yeah, with all the issues I have pretty much decided that even if everything gets fixed once and for all this will be my last Tesla. I love driving electric cars but have been looking really hard at Mercedes specifically the GLS, the milage might be crap and I will need to pump gas again but at least I won't have my car in service every couple of weeks
So this is what I just got sent about the vibration from my front end: “Our Lead Technician and the Tech who worked on your vehicle drove the vehicle several times. Here are their notes: Vehicle does not pull to the left. Slight vibration was felt. Balanced tires and it got a little bit better. Vibration that is left, is a characteristic of the vehicles wheels and tires. We swapped wheel sets from a new MX with only 800 miles to verify. If customer wants to lessen the vibration even more, he should purchase 18" wheels and tires. That would not be warranty or good will. this is not a safety concern. His range would fall, but the ride would be smoother. Both or our shop Foremen did a QC check on your vehicle and test drove at highway speeds and concurred with the Technician's notes. At this time no repairs are needed.” There were some other things sent but it pretty much means the car is supposed to vibrate according to them! Oh and after just 3k miles my tires needed to be rebalanced for some reason??? Looks like I am going after the Lemon Law for sure now
Bringing a car in with tires down to the cords is probably a bit suspect to them, but so are these suspensions and the shudder sounds. Have you had the car evaluated by independent mechanics? Might want to get a couple opinions.
It takes a few hours of paperwork to get into arbitration with them. If you don’t want to commit the work, don’t expect others to do it for you unless you pay.
Well yeah thats the whole point of hiring a lawyer right? I am doing the initial steps like gathering info and preparing everything to be sent, after that the lawyer will do their part and the arbitration will take place.
I have a '20 X with 4K miles, and I'm noticing creaking whenever I begin acceleration after a full stop. Is that your problem too? I'm also seeing noisy windows and weatherstripping that's loose. It's only been 4k miles...
If it’s coming from the foot well yes I had that problem as well. For me it sounded like a creaking/groaning sound when pressing the accelerator from a dead stop. This is what they put in the service notes: “Isolated the noise to the front half shaft to hub interface. Lubed front half shaft spline/ face area and retorqued axle nuts. Noise was resolved.” hope this help you!!!
Since I started this thread a while ago, I wanted to report back and admit I was wrong in asking for an attorney. As some on here have suspected, the issue were the wheels/tires. I finally had the chance to swap from a friend's X' 20' wheels and the vibration was gone. We put my wheels on his car and the vibrations were strong on his! However, the weirdest thing was that, once we put the 22's back onto my car, the vibrations were gone on my car as well! I have no explanation but am happy that this got resolved! Thanks everyone for chiming in!
Your wheels are not balanced for high speed. I suspect you put your front wheels in the rear now after the swap back. I bet your rear seats are probably shaking at high speed.
Thnka for thinking outside the box Sperkin! Went to check but all tires are in their right place. I wonder if it has to do with the position of the wheel on the axle, meaning they found the right bolt /hole combination by accident.
Aftermarket wheels are often manfactured, shall we say, less than precisely for your application. Do you have custom wheels made specifically for your hub size / offset, etc? Or do you have a generic wheels? Are you running any kind of hub-centric mounting spacer? Your wheel may not have been completely centered when mounted if not.
They were purchased from a reputable dealer here in L.A. Not sure if they were specifiaclly for my hub size/offset but they were one of the options for my car. Wow, never heard of a hub-centric mounting spacer. It sure would be good to have a reliable way of mounting them back on after tire swaps and stuff.