Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Need Advice - 2021 Model 3 Long Range Black/Black

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
Hi All,

I'm considering selling my 2021 Model 3 Long Range with no FSD. I'm not sure how much I should sell the car for due to a couple of factors. Any opinion on these factors will be greatly appreciated. The car currently has little over 35k miles. However, the battery pack was replaced at around 32k miles with a new OEM battery pack from Telsa. Total cost was a little over $17k. I'm curious if the newer battery pack will help with the value?
The car does have a few aftermarket parts which I will list below. I'm willing to sell the car with the aftermarket wheels and coilovers and include the original aero wheels and suspension with the sale or remove them and reinstall the original wheels and suspension, if I'm not able to get a higher selling price. The original aero wheels and suspension had around 1k miles before they were swapped out. I do have invoices to show all work that has been done. I'm wondering how much is my car worth? I will also include some pictures. Thank you all for taking a look at this and for helping out.

- Signature SV501, Gloss Gunmetal, 19x8.5 ET24 squared
- MPP Comfort Coilover(Non-Adjustable)
- Painted Calipers to Chalk Gray
- Xpel Prime XR PLUS window tint, 20% side and rear windows, 70% windshield, & 5% visor
- Ceramic Pro Silver Plus - 7 Year

IMG_0109.JPG
IMG_0108.JPG
IMG_0105.JPG
IMG_0106.JPG
IMG_0107.JPG
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0109.JPG
    IMG_0109.JPG
    695.7 KB · Views: 58
It might help with private sale. But won’t get a dime more through places like carmax or on trade. If you do sell to carmax or trade your best off selling the upgrades and restore the car to OEM. It should get decent money all stock. A private buyer might pay a little for mods. Don’t expect much and could even limit your market. But I would think the fresh battery adds some value.
 
It might help with private sale. But won’t get a dime more through places like carmax or on trade. If you do sell to carmax or trade your best off selling the upgrades and restore the car to OEM. It should get decent money all stock. A private buyer might pay a little for mods. Don’t expect much and could even limit your market. But I would think the fresh battery adds some value.
Thank you. That will be my plan. Any idea how much I should list it for stock compared to with aftermarket parts?
 
Thank you. That will be my plan. Any idea how much I should list it for stock compared to with aftermarket parts?
Sorry no idea. Changes a lot lately. Call a bunch of those carmax like places. Lots of threads on which of those give the best prices. Which also varies a lot.

Also some places that do private listings include a history of going prices. Asking prices are meaningless.
 
And you did not have collision insurance to cover that?

Either way, a new battery on a new car is more of a liability than a selling point IMO
I did go through insurance. Unfortunately, my insurance rate has more than doubled due to the me hitting a stationary object and found at fault.

I'm really not sure. I would assume it's a positive since it has 32k less miles on it. That's also why I'm looking for opinions. Thanks for your thoughts on this.
 
I did go through insurance. Unfortunately, my insurance rate has more than doubled due to the me hitting a stationary object and found at fault.

I'm really not sure. I would assume it's a positive since it has 32k less miles on it. That's also why I'm looking for opinions. Thanks for your thoughts on this.
The general rule of thumb with Tesla’s, any vehicles really, but especially Tesla’s is once they start taking things apart they never go back together the same way.

Basically, your car has been in an accident (literally) and should be priced as such.
 
The general rule of thumb with Tesla’s, any vehicles really, but especially Tesla’s is once they start taking things apart they never go back together the same way.

Basically, your car has been in an accident (literally) and should be priced as such.
I will have to take your word for this. It does make sense. I don't know much about how this stuff works. Do you or anyone on here know what the price should be around? I'm trying to get idea on pricing since this community knows a lot about these cars. I'll probably have take it into a Carmax or something similar to see what they offer and if the value is affected.
 
The general rule of thumb with Tesla’s, any vehicles really, but especially Tesla’s is once they start taking things apart they never go back together the same way.

Basically, your car has been in an accident (literally) and should be priced as such.
this. like i said before thinking it just had a new battery i didn't think it would add much value and now knowing it was in a "wreck" is why it has it I wouldn't pay as much for it as I would a factory one. But for many you should get close to the same. Does it show in carfax?
 
I will have to take your word for this. It does make sense. I don't know much about how this stuff works. Do you or anyone on here know what the price should be around? I'm trying to get idea on pricing since this community knows a lot about these cars. I'll probably have take it into a Carmax or something similar to see what they offer and if the value is affected.
If you’re thinking of selling privately I would pull a carfax and see if the accident shows up on there.

You can also try Carmax/Carvana etc for quotes. I’m not sure you’re obligated to mention anything to them. Let them do their own due diligence.
 
I will have to take your word for this. It does make sense. I don't know much about how this stuff works. Do you or anyone on here know what the price should be around? I'm trying to get idea on pricing since this community knows a lot about these cars. I'll probably have take it into a Carmax or something similar to see what they offer and if the value is affected.

Your new battery is a net negative, because it came with an accident (vs no change because it failed because of manufacturer defect or something). Your actual car value is that of one like yours with an accident on its record (especially if that accident shows).

I dont know what that value is, but you can talk to one of the vendors here like @FindMyElectric who has a website devoted to buying and selling telsas.

I would recommend pinging them here or on their website to talk about it.

I know I "might" pay a "little" more for a car that had a brand new battery because the other one failed. I would not pay more for a car that had a battery replacement because of an accident. Not only would I not pay more, I would expect to pay less, just as if the car had been in any other accident with roughly 20k damage.
 
  • Like
Reactions: UCF3
this. like i said before thinking it just had a new battery i didn't think it would add much value and now knowing it was in a "wreck" is why it has it I wouldn't pay as much for it as I would a factory one. But for many you should get close to the same. Does it show in carfax?
If you’re thinking of selling privately I would pull a carfax and see if the accident shows up on there.

You can also try Carmax/Carvana etc for quotes. I’m not sure you’re obligated to mention anything to them. Let them do their own due diligence.
I have not purchased a Carfax report yet. I will take it into Carmax first and then purchase a Carfax if I decide to do a private sale. At least I know where to start once I get an offer from Carmax. Thanks for the advice and thoughts on this.
 
Your new battery is a net negative, because it came with an accident (vs no change because it failed because of manufacturer defect or something). Your actual car value is that of one like yours with an accident on its record (especially if that accident shows).

I dont know what that value is, but you can talk to one of the vendors here like @FindMyElectric who has a website devoted to buying and selling telsas.

I would recommend pinging them here or on their website to talk about it.

I know I "might" pay a "little" more for a car that had a brand new battery because the other one failed. I would not pay more for a car that had a battery replacement because of an accident. Not only would I not pay more, I would expect to pay less, just as if the car had been in any other accident with roughly 20k damage.
Thanks for the recommendation. I will see what @FindMyElectric says in regards to this.

It definitely makes a lot more sense now that you guys have explained this to me. I never really looked at this as an accident since it's not what a traditional auto accident is. I was just thinking that I ran over a stinkin rock and damaged my battery pack and had it replaced. The crazy thing is that the rock completely cleared my front bumper.
 
  • Informative
Reactions: jjrandorin
Thanks for the recommendation. I will see what @FindMyElectric says in regards to this.

It definitely makes a lot more sense now that you guys have explained this to me. I never really looked at this as an accident since it's not what a traditional auto accident is. I was just thinking that I ran over a stinkin rock and damaged my battery pack and had it replaced. The crazy thing is that the rock completely cleared my front bumper.

Yeah sounds like bad luck, for sure. If it were me, I would:

1. remove all non OEM parts I could remove
2. Sell car to someplace like carmax, carvana, etc, a large used car site like that.

The issue you have is, I believe some of those sites may ask about damage, and you may have to sign something regarding damage to the vehicle. I dont know what the laws are about this, but I am fairly sure you cant "willfully misrepresent" something like this, if you "should have known".

You know your car had an accident that needed replacement of the battery. If asked, you likely have to disclose this even if it doesnt show up on one of the "carfax" type sites. There is likely a form somewhere you sign stating you dont know anything about damage, or any damage has been disclosed, with any commercial site selling cars (this wouldnt be their first or second rodeo with selling cars with accidents or people who try to hide that)

Selling private party, you might be able to get away with "they didnt ask me" but I am not sure on that. Basically, you have an accident damaged car, and any value is going to be determined based on an accident damaged car, or you not disclosing that fact (which could end up poorly / disasterous).
 
Yeah sounds like bad luck, for sure. If it were me, I would:

1. remove all non OEM parts I could remove
2. Sell car to someplace like carmax, carvana, etc, a large used car site like that.

The issue you have is, I believe some of those sites may ask about damage, and you may have to sign something regarding damage to the vehicle. I dont know what the laws are about this, but I am fairly sure you cant "willfully misrepresent" something like this, if you "should have known".

You know your car had an accident that needed replacement of the battery. If asked, you likely have to disclose this even if it doesnt show up on one of the "carfax" type sites. There is likely a form somewhere you sign stating you dont know anything about damage, or any damage has been disclosed, with any commercial site selling cars (this wouldnt be their first or second rodeo with selling cars with accidents or people who try to hide that)

Selling private party, you might be able to get away with "they didnt ask me" but I am not sure on that. Basically, you have an accident damaged car, and any value is going to be determined based on an accident damaged car, or you not disclosing that fact (which could end up poorly / disasterous).
I really appreciate all your recommendations. I will be upfront about this.
 
Thanks for the recommendation. I will see what @FindMyElectric says in regards to this.

It definitely makes a lot more sense now that you guys have explained this to me. I never really looked at this as an accident since it's not what a traditional auto accident is. I was just thinking that I ran over a stinkin rock and damaged my battery pack and had it replaced. The crazy thing is that the rock completely cleared my front bumper.

Hi there, happy to help! Bummer that you ran over a rock--but it happens; we see minor/non-accident damage all the time in listings; life happens.

How much does it affect the price of the vehicle? This depends on a few things: 1) Do you have all the repair records? 2) What was the extent of the non-batter damage? (i.e. no frame damage, etc.). 3) Does the car still have a clean title? 4) How picky are your interested buyers?

If it was a standard "oopsie" accident, with no major damage, repaired at a Tesla-certified shop (or Tesla themselves), you have all the paperwork, and the car is still clean-titled, then it affects the value a little but, but probably not more than a few percentage points or so max.

Does the new battery add value? Not really. In this case, it's more or less cancelled out by the accident. And the vehicle is still under warranty (it seems), so the battery replacement is sort of negligible. If you had an older, out-of-warranty Model S, and had a battery replaced just at the end of the battery warranty in a non-accident situation, that's when you'll get the most resale value out of a battery replacement.

In terms of disclosure, yes--you want to fully-disclose the history, but you don't need to worry too much about it. A few lines in a seller description wherever you decide to list will suffice; if buyers want more info, they can ask you. In other words, always be honest, but you don't need to drone on telling a large story--just the facts and an invitation to ask questions is generally good.

If you're looking for comparables, you can visit findmyelectric.com/listings/ and check the "Include Sold Listings" box. This will allow you to see the asking price of all vehicles that have sold (we built this specifically so people like you could do pricing research).

That said, if you choose to list with us ($49 only), we provide "Expert Pricing Help" if you ask for it, and will look at all the market data we have to dial in the best selling price for you. We also have the option to list for free, but this comes with lower exposure, no support, and no pricing help (although it is totally free--no catch!).

Lastly, you can request an instant offer on our site from our curated EV dealer network--it only takes 2 minutes and there's no obligation. One benefit of doing so is it'll give you another data point on price.

Any questions, feel free to hit us up!