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Did you also need to manually lower the charging amps on the screen in the car?I used this for several months to charge my X. It's not unsafe.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00STD8S7C/ref=pe_139950_229204750_em_1p_0_ti
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I've always had the car adjust down to the maximum current it can draw - not based on the plug type, but rather what's available. Certainly open to being educated on this. But I've never adjusted for low amperage at public chargers, for instance, and it's always dialed itself down.Did you also need to manually lower the charging amps on the screen in the car?
The concern that @gaswalla is expressing (and which I also have) is that with this adapter, your Tesla will think it is plugged into a 14-50 receptacle. As such, it will try to draw 40 amps from a dryer outlet which probably can only provide 24 amps (on a 30 amp fuse) or 32 amps (on a 40 amp fuse). That's inherently unsafe.
Now, if you know the maximum amps your UMC adapter will draw, and the maximum continuous load that your outlet/breaker is capable of sustaining, and are aware of the need to dial down the amps in the car, then it's an OK solution for temporary charging. However, it's not a solution that will be safe in the long term if the UMC ever decides to draw more power than your outlet can provide.
The need for an extension cord complicates the setup.
At "public chargers" you're probably using the J1772 adapter. J1772 has a safety protocol that negotiates and monitors the power output, so dialing down the amps manually is unnecessary.I've always had the car adjust down to the maximum current it can draw - not based on the plug type, but rather what's available. Certainly open to being educated on this. But I've never adjusted for low amperage at public chargers, for instance, and it's always dialed itself down.
Did you also need to manually lower the charging amps on the screen in the car?
The concern that @gaswalla is expressing (and which I also have) is that with this adapter, your Tesla will think it is plugged into a 14-50 receptacle. As such, it will try to draw 40 amps from a dryer outlet which probably can only provide 24 amps (on a 30 amp fuse) or 32 amps (on a 40 amp fuse). That's inherently unsafe.
Now, if you know the maximum amps your UMC adapter will draw, and the maximum continuous load that your outlet/breaker is capable of sustaining, and are aware of the need to dial down the amps in the car, then it's an OK solution for temporary charging. However, it's not a solution that will be safe in the long term if the UMC ever decides to draw more power than your outlet can provide.
At "public chargers" you're probably using the J1772 adapter. J1772 has a safety protocol that negotiates and monitors the power output, so dialing down the amps manually is unnecessary.
For NEMA outlets, there's no such safety protocol. That's why there are separate UMC adapters, each of which has a built-in resistor to limit the maximum current it will draw continuously (40A for the 14-50 adapter, 24A for the 14-30 and 10-30 adapters, 16A for the 5-20, and 12A for the 5-15.) These are 80% of the rated values for each outlet.
I know that the car is smart enough to lower the amps itself if it detects that the power source can't provide the requested amount, but the concern is that it will not be able to detect that accurately with a 14-50 adapter. A 30A-rated outlet may actually be able to provide up to 30A for a while before heating up dangerously or blowing the fuse (if you're lucky).
I have actually blown a fuse this way, plugging in with a 10-30P-to-14-50R adapter, a Camco extension cord, and the UMC plugged into that. It's made me very aware of how much current the car can draw, and the need to know what size fuse is protecting the circuit.
I don't see an answer to your last question.Looking for recommendations for this adapter and a 50’ 50amp extension cord
Also does anyone know whether a TT-30P to 14-50R will work? Have a 3 prong dryer outlet.
Thanks in advance.
The Tesla does not use one of the wires in the RV extension. If you can make it yourself (or, I assume, buy a custom one from some source), it will be significantly thinner cable. Just be sure to label it correctly as NOT being usable for an RV -- for Tesla use only.As far as a 50 amp extension cord, I bought one off eBay and you can shop for the best price. Camping world is too expensive. But if you are only going to run off your dryer a 10 gauge cord will work. If you plan on also possibly using campground 50 amp then get the 50 amp extension cord for sure.
One thing that other folks have done is to cut off the neutral L-shaped prong on the 14-30 adapter so it will fit into either a 14-30 or 14-50 receptacle (remember, you can always draw less amps than an outlet's rated value, not more.) Then you can plug that into your 14-50 extension cord and not have to worry about manually setting the charging amps for the dryer outlet.Thanks for the detailed explanation
Not a permanent situation for sure and as Bonnie mentioned the extension does complicate things
I would just get the 10-30 from Tesla if not for the distance issue
How to build a lightweight 50A extension cord
A lot of us here have made and use the lightweight one with no problems. The extra unneeded wire of the commercial ones makes them difficult to use because they don't bend very easily, aside from the unnecessary bulk and weight.
While you are correct that it makes a good cord, the one end (female) is a little more susceptible to water intrusion.