SammichLover
Banned
Very true.
Realistically I can’t properly unfurl even the LR-D on public roads. Not just straight line, either. Legal grey area aside, one of my kids will complain before I even reach that.
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Need help deciding between Performance and Long Range Model 3?
- Thread starter TadleyD
- Start date
Realistically I can’t properly unfurl even the LR-D on public roads. Not just straight line, either. Legal grey area aside, one of my kids will complain before I even reach that.
For the seriously deranged among us an option is the P3D then using aftermarket 18”: wheels that fit over the Performance brakes. That is what I did and I was lucky enough to sell the OEM 20” wheels and tires for about the price of my new set.
That dies keep the better brakes as well as the other Performance goodies. A less irrational person would just buy the P3D- or the AWD LR. I have driven the AWD LR for a couple of long trips (rented). Anybody with any rationality would choose the AWD LR.
The P3D Stealth (P3D-) doesn’t come with the performance brakes or 20” tires. It’s an AWD software unlocked for P speed and also has track mode.
SammichLover
Banned
Yeah, we have kinda known this for some time since those D vs P dyno runs. That the gap closes progressively from around 50 mph on up until there is basically no difference at 100mph. (edit: In acceleration, Track Mode matters in other ways, though).
Immediately when I saw the D slightly pulling away at 70mph rolling start I though “bet that’s a hefty sized driver”
. Good on him talking about that, and the tires (big part of why I’d go P-). Those being equal the P will have the edge still at 70mph.
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True enough. Thus my absurd choice preserved all the P3D+ features while also having more practical wheels and tires. FWIW, neither I nor my SO can tell any difference in ride between the two, nor is there any measurable difference in efficiency, in my case anyway.
Practicality wise it's a fairly straightforward decision. The Performance costs an extra $8,000 and has wheels which will also lead to higher ongoing expenses. What you get probably doesn't justify that level of expense. So, it really comes down to whether or not you can afford it and are willing to spend that extra money. If you can and you are, then sure, get the Performance.
Another consideration is that I personally wouldn't get the Performance if you live somewhere that has winter weather unless you're fully prepared for the expense and inconvenience of getting a 2nd set of wheels.
A final thought on looks. The 20 inch wheels just look nicer than the 18's, and wheels are one of the most important aspect of the look of a car. So if the looks are a big factor for you, but you still don't want to spend the extra $8,000, get the 19's for $1,500 instead. That or get the 18's and buy aftermarket wheels.
Another consideration is that I personally wouldn't get the Performance if you live somewhere that has winter weather unless you're fully prepared for the expense and inconvenience of getting a 2nd set of wheels.
A final thought on looks. The 20 inch wheels just look nicer than the 18's, and wheels are one of the most important aspect of the look of a car. So if the looks are a big factor for you, but you still don't want to spend the extra $8,000, get the 19's for $1,500 instead. That or get the 18's and buy aftermarket wheels.
Good solution as well. I guess you would only be able to tell the difference while tracking the car.
Frankly I hate the Aero cover look.Now you just need Aero covers for the aftermarket wheels...
⚡️ELECTROMAN⚡️
Village Idiot
The Dual Motor was more than fast enough for me. Can’t imagine needing a P. I guess I’m just old and mellow. My slow MS 5.5 to 60 is plenty 95% of the time. It would be nice having that extra launch speed pulling into traffic at times, but usually I’m pretty patient.
I mainly wouldn’t get the P out of fear my insurance company would use it against me. Not worth higher premiums to me.
I mainly wouldn’t get the P out of fear my insurance company would use it against me. Not worth higher premiums to me.
SammichLover
Banned
Agreed outside the quibble that It’s probably as much or more air drag that’s the cost (no Aero cap, Tesla’s version of the 20” PS4S has much wider tread).
SammichLover
Banned
I have two wheel sets, one Aero (when distance matters) and a 18” rim with lower profile, wider tires when speed matters more.
I’ll be upgrading the discs as soon as I see enough feedback about the options out there for that. I can throw in a set of MPP coil overs (default is a drop a bit more than the P does, although that’s adjustable) and I’m better off mechanically in all ways, and not much diff in $ (the $2500 + labour for the shocks puts the P- over a stock P, I think).
Efficiency is exactly the same except for the tires. Nothing to do with Rims.
You can get 19” on the Non P. Less issues and actually the widest choice of tires (more than 18” or 20”).
If they have a Model X LR (non P) it has about the same acceleration as the AWD 3. Try it. If they only have a P Model X, put it in Standard Acceleration. It’s a shame the Model 3 does not have a middle Acceleration setting. If anything it would help people decide if AWD Accel was enough. Ask them to turn off “P”
I had a 3P, now a AWD (non P) (in the shape of a Model X). I the “usable” performance is much more practical. I tend to drive it more Spirited than the 3, because I kept the 3 in Chill, because, Sport Mode, day to day was way more than I wanted available under my toe.
I agree. Still some insurers do not up rate the P. Some is due to driver history. I probably am an outlier but my P85D and P3D both had quite reasonable pricing for my area. OTOH, with history of a long sequence of exotic and high performance cars without claims I imagine I had the benefits of history. With insurance YMMV, for certain. Equally, Tesla rates tend to be highly dependent on insurance underwriters experience with collision repair of exotic materials. Thus, urban areas with high German/Italian/ exotic populations tend to have a wider population of qualified repair facilities. No matter what else may appear in the rates, collision repair looms large in insurance underwriter calculus. Some penalize higher performance variants just because the market will bear the price, and it is true that accident frequency is higher for higher performance variants than it is for lower performance variants. Only a handful of underwriters consider driver vehicle history in setting prices.
That said, choosing the AWD LR will always be less costly in insurance and fees than will be the P3D +/-. Not to mention lower purchase price. Thus, I describe such choices as irrational. They surely are. Would I repeat my own stupid choice. Yes!!!
If you ever wanted to know or be able to show people what a supercar accelerates like, it costs you $10k, plus you get better brakes, and better looking wheels, and the spoiler helps reduce scratches from rings on your hand when you close the trunk. The P just looks better. The AWD will still be quicker than every car you find on the street, unless you pull up next to a P. I don’t find the ride that much harsher in the P vs the P-, but I do worry about potholes. 18” that fit P brakes are on my shopping list.
My wife went from a 2018 (2 yr old Volt Premium) to a 2019 P3D+ and her rate went DOWN, not much but down.I agree. Still some insurers do not up rate the P. Some is due to driver history. I probably am an outlier but my P85D and P3D both had quite reasonable pricing for my area. OTOH, with history of a long sequence of exotic and high performance cars without claims I imagine I had the benefits of history. With insurance YMMV, for certain. Equally, Tesla rates tend to be highly dependent on insurance underwriters experience with collision repair of exotic materials. Thus, urban areas with high German/Italian/ exotic populations tend to have a wider population of qualified repair facilities. No matter what else may appear in the rates, collision repair looms large in insurance underwriter calculus. Some penalize higher performance variants just because the market will bear the price, and it is true that accident frequency is higher for higher performance variants than it is for lower performance variants. Only a handful of underwriters consider driver vehicle history in setting prices.
That said, choosing the AWD LR will always be less costly in insurance and fees than will be the P3D +/-. Not to mention lower purchase price. Thus, I describe such choices as irrational. They surely are. Would I repeat my own stupid choice. Yes!!!
SammichLover
Banned
I read a test of the Aero caps months back and they tested 3% more efficient at highway speed. Tesla claims 10%.
Tesla's aero wheels improve range by 3% at high speed, test shows - Electrek
SammichLover
Banned
The Tesla claim on 10% was for the wheels in total, so including the tires. And yeah, from very early on people were finding that it was about 3-4% for the caps alone. So worth about 10Wh/mile, depending on what speed you're traveling.
Although a lot more than that compared to the stock 20" wheels, the caps by themselves are a smaller part of it.
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