Have you checked the swaybar link? Its definately a good culprit hearing a rattling noise on small bumps at low speeds and the noise would be around the wheel well area. I had that type of noise on my kia sorento for the longest time, thought i had something loose bolt making the rattle. After replacing both sway bar links, no more rattling sound.
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Need help isolating rattle
- Thread starter 240vPlug
- Start date
Have you checked the swaybar link? Its definately a good culprit hearing a rattling noise on small bumps at low speeds and the noise would be around the wheel well area. I had that type of noise on my kia sorento for the longest time, thought i had something loose bolt making the rattle. After replacing both sway bar links, no more rattling sound.
At this point I’m thinking it’s just excessive road noise. It’s worse on the P vs my 21 LR because of the larger 21” Uberturbine wheels.
I did find an extra noise was coming from the driver Tesmanian all weather floor mat. The Velcro strips were completely detached from the mat on the left side.
I have TSPORTLINE TSS wheels in 19” with factory tires on order. While I don’t feel like the ride is that much more harsh then the 19” Gemini I feel like there is a lot more road noise and more vibration. I just don’t like the way it drives with the large wheels.
The 19s should be smoother, provide more range, and provide more tire options at a lower cost. I will also be able to rotate them to extend their life.
I did find an extra noise was coming from the driver Tesmanian all weather floor mat. The Velcro strips were completely detached from the mat on the left side.
I have TSPORTLINE TSS wheels in 19” with factory tires on order. While I don’t feel like the ride is that much more harsh then the 19” Gemini I feel like there is a lot more road noise and more vibration. I just don’t like the way it drives with the large wheels.
The 19s should be smoother, provide more range, and provide more tire options at a lower cost. I will also be able to rotate them to extend their life.
I was hearing some rattling noise occasionally when going over some rougher patch of road on passenger seat when I am driving myself, turns out it was the seatbelt buckle hanging between the seat and side of the door. I adjusted the passenger seat forward a bit and the rattle was gone.
EVer Hopeful
Active Member
I’m still trying to figure out what it is. Whatever it is seems to become more noticeable after I have driven on the highway for 15 minutes or so. After the highway driving I can really hear the sounds when I return to surface roads at lower speeds.
There are a couple areas im looking into as it seems suspension is seeming less likely. I think the additional steering input is from the larger wheels and tires. It doesn’t feel loose and it behaves normally when I turn the wheel side to side and lower speeds. It only does it over smaller bumps or patches of uneven road. Larger bumps it doesn’t do it.
Passengers can’t seem to hear it and it can’t be heard on video well at all. I’m worrying less about it now and just looking at possibilities from time to time.
I’m going to look at the rear seat, vent under driver seat which seems to be pretty loose, and rear windows both seem physically loose and make a similar noise when I shake up/down and side to side. I’m also entertaining the possibility that it’s just something that is normal for the P due to the suspension and larger wheels/tires.
There are a couple areas im looking into as it seems suspension is seeming less likely. I think the additional steering input is from the larger wheels and tires. It doesn’t feel loose and it behaves normally when I turn the wheel side to side and lower speeds. It only does it over smaller bumps or patches of uneven road. Larger bumps it doesn’t do it.
Passengers can’t seem to hear it and it can’t be heard on video well at all. I’m worrying less about it now and just looking at possibilities from time to time.
I’m going to look at the rear seat, vent under driver seat which seems to be pretty loose, and rear windows both seem physically loose and make a similar noise when I shake up/down and side to side. I’m also entertaining the possibility that it’s just something that is normal for the P due to the suspension and larger wheels/tires.
I have another update. It appears I have a new symptom which I think may be related to the rattle over uneven road surfaces. Now the vehicle is shuddering at speeds above 30mph and it’s especially noticeable at about 35 mph. The shuddering continues but much less noticeable above 55 Mph. Power seems down but no errors on the screen.
In the driver seat it feels like power is being cut to the motor(s) very quickly over and over again. In the passenger seat it feels like the vehicle is hopping up and down. Lastly, it’s almost as if something is dragging on the vehicle.
My wife noticed what she called a bird whistle but I am noticing more whine coming from the drive units. She thinks it’s coming from the back but I say it’s coming from the front and related to the clunk rattle.
Have another service appointment with Tesla and I’m seriously thinking about writing a lemon law letter because they will probably try to push it off as (that’s normal for the performance model). I owned a long range for 16 months and also drove a performance model before and none of this is normal.
I’m extremely frustrated with this situation.
In the driver seat it feels like power is being cut to the motor(s) very quickly over and over again. In the passenger seat it feels like the vehicle is hopping up and down. Lastly, it’s almost as if something is dragging on the vehicle.
My wife noticed what she called a bird whistle but I am noticing more whine coming from the drive units. She thinks it’s coming from the back but I say it’s coming from the front and related to the clunk rattle.
Have another service appointment with Tesla and I’m seriously thinking about writing a lemon law letter because they will probably try to push it off as (that’s normal for the performance model). I owned a long range for 16 months and also drove a performance model before and none of this is normal.
I’m extremely frustrated with this situation.
check the black fender liner in the wheel well.. tap the top and also where the mudguard goes it is very loose there..
It’s going in for 3rd time tomorrow. Tech says 22 models have issues with axles. They greased the rear axle splines and no improvement. The vibrations vary from up/down to side/side. Wife thinks it’s on passenger side. I also now have a shudder above 30 mph.
Well I have an update. Tesla replaced the LF strut assembly in November and the problem seemed to go away until about two weeks ago at which time the noise came back with a vengance. I am still unable to capture from inside the cabin but I figured out how to replicate it as its still somewhat intermittent. If I rock the steering wheel back and forth while parked I can sometimes replicate the noise. See this video. This is the clanking noise and then there is a rattle as well when traveling over uneven road surfaces at speeds below 40mph with wheels straight.
What do you all think? LInks? Steering rack? Something else?
What do you all think? LInks? Steering rack? Something else?
Updates to this issue posted in the following thread to consolidate:
teslamotorsclub.com
Front end knocking sound Model Y performance
I’ve searched as much as I can but can’t find a solution to my problem. I’ve got a late 2022 China built MYP with a front end knocking sound. It’s only really noticeable at low speed when going over small bumps in the road. The only thing I can compare it to is worn drop link sound. It’s not...
teslamotorsclub.com
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Ok, well I must not have had my coffee when I posted this. I actually wanted to link back to this thread. The above thread is in the Europe forum.Updates to this issue posted in the following thread to consolidate:
Front end knocking sound Model Y performance
I’ve searched as much as I can but can’t find a solution to my problem. I’ve got a late 2022 China built MYP with a front end knocking sound. It’s only really noticeable at low speed when going over small bumps in the road. The only thing I can compare it to is worn drop link sound. It’s not...
I beleive I have solved this problem. This is going to be a bit long to stay with me.
Here is the is what happened with service:
I picked up the car from service yesterday and unfortunately the problem is not resolved. They drove it with swaybar off, torqued all components in front end, and "checked the entire front end". The manager says they drove one other Model Y performance with 9000 miles and it has the same noise. So they are calling it characteristic of the car. They have spent about 25 days on the car and I have attempted 6 times to get this issue taken care of. Its a metal on metal sound and despite the video they still have no idea where the sound is coming from. They insist though that the car is safe to drive.
They have escalated it to a "regional engineer" as I questioned one car proving that it is characteristic of the car. I also questioned how they are just learning this. The car has been manufactured for about 3 years now. The manager just gave me a bunch of BS reasons why like "we don't see a lot of MYP". I also asked him why the car didn't do it when it was new....problem appeared when the car had about 3,825 miles on it. He said "springs probably just needed to loosen up". Its clear they have no idea and are giving up.
I am going to test drive another 2022 Model Y performance this weekend to see if it makes similar noises. The manager and staff at the SC have been polite and professional though. I follow up next week to check if they have heard back from the regional engineer.
Here is where we are now:
I rented a 2022 MYP with 7600 miles on it 544xxx VIN. It makes the exact same noise that mine has been making. At this point I believe the SC is correct that this is characteristic of the car. I went back and looked at my records thoroughly. When I first noted the problem at the end of July 22 the car had 3,800 miles on it. In November the SC replaced the LF strut assembly. The problem seemed to go away until Jan of 23 and then it returned. When I look at my mileage log it is almost exactly the same mileage (3,800 miles)! So both strut assemblies were quiet for the first 3800 miles after which they became more noisy.
The more concerning thing is that Tesla wasn't aware of this and spent a great deal of time looking into it. It was good of them to do it but Tesla should have known and it would have saved them and me a lot of frustration and time. The LR and the P have different part numbers for strut assembly so I believe this is why my LR did not sound like this. The P model transmits more more harshness through to the wheel and into cabin....even when the 19s I have on it I can feel every little road imperfection. I mistakenly thought the only difference was ride height but the dampers and springs are obviously different in the P and the car behaves in a much different way than a LR.
I feel like an idiot but I am glad I can have some piece of mind knowing there is nothing wrong with the car. Would be nice if it was quieter though.
Having something fail at a specific mileage is difficult to do intentionally and if unintentionally is pretty much chalked up to coincidence. So I wouldn’t think too much about the mileage.
It might be necessary to find someone with a four post lift, the kind where are car still rests on its wheels, so that someone can look while the steering is turned back and forth.
On the other hand, have you lifted up the front on jacks, taken off the wheels and then put a camera where it could see the most to see if it might catch what might be making the noise? I know there are some cases where a noise isn’t present when there‘s no load on the suspension, but one can only hope something can be found unloaded.
As far as I can tell from the clip, it’s one of two things, movement where it kinda “skips” or changes direction slightly after everything else. Skips could be something binding (too tight). Lag would be opposite (something loose).
It might be necessary to find someone with a four post lift, the kind where are car still rests on its wheels, so that someone can look while the steering is turned back and forth.
On the other hand, have you lifted up the front on jacks, taken off the wheels and then put a camera where it could see the most to see if it might catch what might be making the noise? I know there are some cases where a noise isn’t present when there‘s no load on the suspension, but one can only hope something can be found unloaded.
As far as I can tell from the clip, it’s one of two things, movement where it kinda “skips” or changes direction slightly after everything else. Skips could be something binding (too tight). Lag would be opposite (something loose).
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