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Need some help figuring out my salvage model S

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I'm not going to be probing the HV system with the 12V hooked up too many unknowns and too many risks.
This is the problem. Without a Tesla laptop, or access to the diagnostic menu, this is the only alternative. That is why I mentioned sourcing outside help.

First and foremost you need to be 100% sure that either the 12V battery is up to snuff, or be 100% sure that you get enough power to close the main battery contactors.
Then you need to find out whether or not there is HV at the junction box. If the heater or AC work, then you have HV at both the DC/DC convereter and the HV junction box. If they don't, you need to find out why by using a voltmeter in the correct areas.

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That sensor is a shunt to measure the 12V battery current. There should be no continuity between the rivet thru the black plastic and the copper bar, and there should be continuity between the ends of the copper bar (very low resistance).
I really doubt that this is his problem. That sensor alone probably won't render the car undrivable.
 
Qwk I agree with you 100%. I need to get 12V system 100%. I bought a bosch urt1 battery from pepboys today that I will adapt so it will work in the model S. I will be posting the adaptation process on Monday.

If the car senses any fault in the 12v system it will not turn on the HV system. A simple open in a pyro fuse will disable the car completely but all the 12V systems will still function.

Kennybobby, I have continuity everywhere on that sensor with negligible resistance. The only large resistance that I got is at the 2 terminals inside the plug that resistance is aprox. 5.35 M ohms.
 
Qwk I agree with you 100%. I need to get 12V system 100%. I bought a bosch urt1 battery from pepboys today that I will adapt so it will work in the model S. I will be posting the adaptation process on Monday.

If the car senses any fault in the 12v system it will not turn on the HV system. A simple open in a pyro fuse will disable the car completely but all the 12V systems will still function.

Kennybobby, I have continuity everywhere on that sensor with negligible resistance. The only large resistance that I got is at the 2 terminals inside the plug that resistance is aprox. 5.35 M ohms.


Any luck bringing life to the 12V system?
 
What is an IBS sensor? I am having these very same problems with my Salvage Tesla that I drove for 14,000 miles after I purchased it from a restorer since it had minor problems. Now I have the dreaded 12V problems.
 
IBS sensor is attached to negative terminal post of the 12v bat. I had some pictures of it earlier in thread. I have just replaced mine no luck. I really think that my car has been disabled by tesla, now 12v system is 100%... None of my error messages say "contact tesla" my 3g stopped working and will not load anything, maps stopped working. I'm going to try one more thing, drop the HV battery again and make sure all the connections are good, I did have moisture between the bat pack and the car before because the insurance company did not put the battery all the way up after they disconnected it. Water was leaking through the frunk on top of the battery hump and flowing off the hump between car and battery pack. Does anyone know a good EV mechanic around the mid-west? Otherwise my only solution on this car is to finish up with the body work, print off Tesla salvage form and beg Tesla to take a look at it.(They told me that they do not want to see the car earlier in the process). Any help would be greatly appreciated.


CJS2 did your car go through a Tesla inspection? Are you able to buy parts for your car? Does your 3g work or has the sim card been taken out?
 
I hope they will. I have the original estimate from the insurance company showing that there was no battery or any HV component damage on the car. It is just wrong on so many levels that Tesla can take my running car and disable it without my permission and the only way I can have a running car is to pay them $ (if they even decide to work on it). I understand the reasoning, they do not want to have negative media if something would happen to a car that was not properly fixed. Additionally, you need to pay a lot of $ to acquire a crashed model S, so if parts are readily available why would you not fix it properly? Its the certified shop's labor that makes the cost unbearable.

Why not just put a restriction on selling HV components? That way if you have a lightly damaged car you can fix it yourself and a major damaged car will need Tesla's assistance.

What my plan is now:

Is to take battery down one more time check bat connections

Get remainder of parts that I need

Complete body work

Take it to Tesla to inspect
 
While I am a relatively new owner of a MS, and don't have any experience working on it, I have quite a few years working on high voltage, high current electric vehicles. (Ok, not as high a voltage, and not as high currents as the Tesla).

I don't think that Tesla really anticipated this issue of Salvage Title Tesla's showing up in the mainstream, and for this topic to bubble to the surface, like it has. I also expect that Tesla is finding their way on salvage repairs, much as they worked their way through the drive train problems that ultimately lead EM to impose an 8 year, unlimited mileage warranty to the motor and controller, in addition to the existing same duration warranty on the battery pack.

I also have seen a couple of problems regarding the 12 Volt low error (but not in my MS). I am reminded of a Ford Technical Service Bulletin that basically says that after you replace everything else without success, you need to replace the wiring harness. I think the error messages are very vague, in particular to the MS owner / operator. However, The Service Center technician will connect up their specific diagnostics equipment and let it do the more detailed and specific troubleshooting. Electronics failures have been moving away from component level repairs and towards major assembly replacement for decades, and that's a very lengthy discussion in itself. However, a technician at a service center doesn't need to know the reason for the particular component(s)failure, as long as they can pinpoiunt the assembly that needs to be replaced. Now, unfortunately, the resources available at a Tesla Service Center, or at the factory, are not available, outside the network. The reason I bring this up is that Bjorn Nylund recently had an issue with his famous P85 (Millennium Falcon)which turned out to require the battery pack assembly replacement due to a faulty contactor inside the battery pack. Tesla replaced his 'B' revision battery pack with a 'D' revision pack, which also meant the contactor (which is insde the pack) was replaced, and under warranty.
I don't know what type of contactor is in the Tesla, but in the 2002 Ford Think that I specialize in, the contactor connects the high voltage, high current battery pack to the motor controller. If the contactor fails to operate properly, a wrench symbol is displayed on the instrument cluster LCD display, and the Think will not move. It's also important to note that this also serves an important safety function; if the motor controller sees a fault, it will open the controller, and display the wrench. I would expect that the contactor in the Tesla is probably a 12 Volt one, and if the 12 volt battery isn't working, neither is the car. Maybe the battery, maybe the contactor, maybe the vehicle is seeing a fault; I didn't see that you posted which revision of battery pack you have in this car, but several points arise (at least to me).

'If you have a 'B' pack, you might have an internal contactor problem. In addition, if your MS was even slightly impacted, it may be suffering from an impact or percussive failure of the contactor. As I recall, Bjorn showed his error messages in his video.... might be prudent to see if it closely resembles what you are seeing. He also stated that they remotely diagnosed it, and said it had to go back to the Service Center. Obviously, their remote access to the onboard diagnostics told them they had a contactor problem, and it was not going to be fixed there at the side of the road. Now, I also would expect that Tesla is NOT remotely looking at your vehicle to see what their systems are telling them is the problem. I would expect that Tesla is continuing to formulate their salvage vehicle policy, but are probably NOT wanting to call you saying that you have an issue that they are seeing, and then trying to extricate themselves if there could be more negative publicity or pressure from outside.

The last thought I have is that success for you and your salvage Ms will be directly related to it being a success for Tesla. Don't know if publicity would be what they seek, but negative publicity is generally only sought after by washed up celebrities that truly saying no publicity is worse than negative publicity. It might be a PR coup to be able to report that Tesla vehicles not have a superior rating in every facet of crash testing, but also in repair and return to operating condition of a properly repaired or rebuilt MS. Once your MS repairs are completed, it would be in everyones interest in having it inspected, approved, and back on the road. I'm sure that Tesla realizes that it's not in their best interests to have a BMW or MBZ repaired properly and back on the road, and yet a Tesla MS can't meet the same standard.

I have not looked under the 'hood' of my MS. I think that Tesla needs to get with the industry as far as dealing with Salvage titled vehicles. In California, to get a salvage title relicensed and registered for public use is a bit of a joke. It needs to be inspected and cleared by the California Highway Patrol, which basically inspects the lights, horns, and brakes for proper operation. This in no way verifies that any frame damage was repaired to any industry certified standard. I don;t know whether I feel I should applaud Tesla for wanting to ensure that the vehicle is repaired to their designated standard, or whether they are just reacting to try to keep a repaired or rebuilt Tesla off the road, (and possibly out of the news). When a Mercedes or BMW is repaired, the manufacturer does not have the final say on whether it meets 'their' standards'; why, one might even surmise that a repaired or rebuilt MBZ or BMW might never meet their standards.... 'we'll be happy to sell you a new one... maybe also a lingering question about loved ones and salvage titles".

I think that Tesla is evolving their approach. I think it's reasonable for Tesla to inspect the vehicle after repair or rebuilding, since I think there's 2 important benefits. The first is that the high performance car will continue to function properly and safely in it's continued function as a high performace car. Secondly, though, I'd be very surprised if Tesla didn't expend a few hours with their design staff and examine whether there are any deficiencies that might be resolved in future production. I know, I would, if I was in this situation and had the opportunity.

I also like to say I appreciate the postings on this thread. It's amazing what Tesla has done, and what can be accomplished by working with the public (whether it be their shareholders, owners, future owners, and even the naysayers).



Model S85 Owner, 3 months and 8600 miles
 
Car is alive! So here is what happened, had moisture between battery and body. Battery was not tight up against the body and frunk was dis-assembled when car sat at auction so every time it rained water got between the bat and body. When car worked the first time about a month ago right after I connected the battery up I wiped all visible water, but I bet it still had a moisture build up which set a sensor off and disabled my car.

I was out of the country for a month while the car sat in nice heated garage all the moisture dried up and I have a functional models s! My 3g did get shut off so my navigation does not work anymore. Here is what the car looks now, still trying to find some airbags and a few trim pieces that were lost when car was taken apart by insurance shop.
tesla fixed.JPG


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I apologize for accusing tesla on shutting the car off.
 
Hm..on second thought, I bet it gets gps position from the 3G chip that's disabled.

That makes no sense to me. GPS and 3G shouldn't be connected in anyway. Even if it happened to be provided by the same chip the 3G chip isn't disabled, just the data service from the Telco provider. I suspect navigation works fine if he tethers the car to another device. Data service on the car could probably be restored by replacing the SIM (though it'd probably need to be the same provider since there's no way to really configure the APN on the car).