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Need to drive at 131% efficiency to achieve advertised range.

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Someone let me know if I’m off on this.
Left my house at 69% today. Drive 54km to my office in one drive. Arrived with 55% left on the battery. Had regen dots the entire time btw.

That means 14% equals 54kms. It also means 1% equals 3.85kms. Multiply that by 100 and 100% equals 385kms. The advertised range of the car.

Stats app shows my drive was 131% of efficiency. My car never ever shows anything over 357kms as the 100% rated range. I’ve been driving efficiently for months now and it stays there. It’s seems a bit much that you’d need 131% efficiency to achieve the advertised range.
 
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The range meter is just an estimate. I could be wrong, but I think you would need to drive from 100% down to dead to figure-out the exact miles vs battery percentages of your car. Your snapshot is too small and probably should be taken with a grain of salt.
 
Well I wasn’t using the range estimate today. Everyone says switch to percentage. I did. Maybe 14% isn’t enough. I think repeating the results is more reliable than driving from 100% down to 0. Unless you’re suggesting not each % point on the way down is created equal.
 
Governmental posted range is what was determined by the conditions they dictate for the tests. The way you drive will determing the range you will get.

Not possible to watch displays and calculate precise range you are getting. Wasted time.

Similar to how it's almost impossible to achieve posted fuel consumption on ICE vehicles. It usually assumes ideal conditions.
 
There are so many variables. Road conditions (dry, wet, gravel, snow covered, pavement, etc.), ambient temperature, wind direction and speed, gradient, speed driven, how much just regen vs breaking, how hard the acceleration is, how often passing other vehicles, drafting behind other vehicle, and so on.
I know I regularly drive a 360km route and average about 80% consumption on my LR RWD Model 3 when it’s not winter. Mostly highway driving with AP set to 110 km/h. That works fine for me, but when recommending to others, I always advise to get the biggest battery you can afford.
 
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There are many variables to consumption/range, as mentioned by bpjod above. The state of those variable in your drive is unknown, so it's impossible to say what range you should have gotten. The only thing that's sure is if you drive the exact EPA driving cycle pattern, under the exact conditions of temp, etc., you will get EPA range. Otherwise, your results will vary. As anyone should expect.

You might start by checking your W/km consumption (swipe left-to-right in the lower left display, or check your consumption graph). If you're consuming more than 150 W/km (which your range statement i based on), then you're either driving faster than the rated speed, uphill, in cold weather, or something.

I know I can hit the 150W/km mark at the correct speed (about 100km/h), on a level slope, in summer temps on dry days, as long as acceleration and deceleration are minimized.
 
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There are so many variables. Road conditions (dry, wet, gravel, snow covered, pavement, etc.), ambient temperature, wind direction and speed, gradient, speed driven, how much just regen vs breaking, how hard the acceleration is, how often passing other vehicles, drafting behind other vehicle, and so on.
I know I regularly drive a 360km route and average about 80% consumption on my LR RWD Model 3 when it’s not winter. Mostly highway driving with AP set to 110 km/h. That works fine for me, but when recommending to others, I always advise to get the biggest battery you can afford.

Thanks for the info. I had the LR RWD and realized it was too much battery. It always showed 499 at 100% soc though. The Sr+ from day one never has shown the advertised rated range. I guess it is a bit meaningless and I understand why that it is. Partly because the auto industry, in knowing everyone’s driving habits are different, will promote the unicorn driver and fuel economy. The range in an EV has got to be one of the first three things mentioned, listed etc. Why not say the Sr+ has 500kms of range? How about 700? What difference does it make when it’s not really ever attainable?
 
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There are many variables to consumption/range, as mentioned by bpjod above. The state of those variable in your drive is unknown, so it's impossible to say what range you should have gotten. The only thing that's sure is if you drive the exact EPA driving cycle pattern, under the exact conditions of temp, etc., you will get EPA range. Otherwise, your results will vary. As anyone should expect.

You might start by checking your W/km consumption (swipe left-to-right in the lower left display, or check your consumption graph). If you're consuming more than 150 W/km (which your range statement i based on), then you're either driving faster than the rated speed, uphill, in cold weather, or something.

I know I can hit the 150W/km mark at the correct speed (about 100km/h), on a level slope, in summer temps on dry days, as long as acceleration and deceleration are minimized.
That’s what I had today after the drive.
 
Just curious why everyone worries about range so much on EVs. I don’t think a lot of people think twice about it when buying an ICE. At some point your ‘tank’ needs to get filled so you can go farther. Fact of life, IMO.
I have an SR+. When I got it a year ago, my rated range at 100% was 381 km. I sometimes have 400+ km days. There is one Supercharger location between home and my destination.

My rated range at 100% a year later is only 355 km. Of course, actual range is less than that in the rain, ice, snow, wind, and with elevation changes. That makes the drives much more challenging. If there were five, four or even three SuperCharger locations on my drive, I would be much less concerned.

I would still be unhappy about a 7% drop of range in a year, but I would be less concerned. (I have never had an ICE vehicle lose 7% of range in the first year of ownership.)

Don’t get me wrong, my Tesla is still among my favourite vehicles to have owned.
 
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