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NEMA 14-50 adapter no longer included with vehicles

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Not as in: I can charge with at home, and then toss it in the frunk so I can charge on the road. That would be the UMC, and that *is* flexible.

The UMC isn't very flexible if you left it plugged in at home. And who wants to have to pack the UMC up every time they leave the house.

Leave your UMC in the car and install a wall connector and you have the best of both.
 
I find the 6-50 worked for me. Not dumb at all if you might want to weld some day.

Less wires than 14-50, easy to get into a 33 cu inch "old work" box. Added utility grade outlet and brought my 20 YO panel up to code with GFIC breakers in the garage.

I never run more than 28A, 20 miles an hour is plenty. Derating gives me confidence to use a 50 amp welding extension cord to position the Tesla in the safer part of the garage. Did the work myself and saved a bundle. Biggest cost was a gen 2 connector that stays plugged in as I wanted my Gen 1 to stay in the car and also as a backup.

Charging efficiency is 90%+

Running 50 Amp extension cords !!! Nice. You proved my point !!

I'm sure welding options are a top priority for a majority of Tesla owners.
 
Running 50 Amp extension cords !!! Nice. You proved my point !!

I'm sure welding options are a top priority for a majority of Tesla owners.

What's wrong with that? they are literally rated for 50amps

Why have to pack it at all? Mine is always in the car. I never have to think about it.

I never PLAN to need it.

Do you only pack a spare tire when you plan to have a flat?

So you have a spare tire on your tesla?
 
What's wrong with that? they are literally rated for 50amps



So you have a spare tire on your tesla?

No temperature sensors on a 50 Amp extension cord. Like the one that's in your UMC plug.
50 Amp extension cord is begging for trouble. If you don't understand why that's a bad idea there is no point in discussing further.

I'm seriously considering adding a spare. I do carry a Jack, plug kit and fix a flat though.
 
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No temperature sensors on a 50 Amp extension cord. Like the one that's in your UMC plug.
50 Amp extension cord is begging for trouble. If you don't understand why that's a bad idea there is no point in discussing further.

I'm seriously considering adding a spare. I do carry a Jack, plug kit and fix a flat though.

So your chastising posters for not carrying their UMC 24/7 because, you know everyone needs to charge in an emergency in their 2-300 mile car on their 100 mile daily drive. Where are you even going to plug in at? Even in Texas you're more likely to find public charging/ destination charger then you are a place to plug in. And then to top it off you compare the UMC to a spare tire and you don't even have a spare tire. o_O

As for the cords, There's no temperature sensors in the cords used to hook up a wall charger or a UMC so your attempt at making a point is completely lost. Where's the temp sensor on the wiring coming out of your breaker? There isn't one, so why do they all of a sudden need one in your scenario? If you don't understand VD = (2LRI)1,000 then that explains why you're clueless
 
So your chastising posters for not carrying their UMC 24/7 because, you know everyone needs to charge in an emergency in their 2-300 mile car on their 100 mile daily drive. Where are you even going to plug in at? Even in Texas you're more likely to find public charging/ destination charger then you are a place to plug in. And then to top it off you compare the UMC to a spare tire and you don't even have a spare tire. o_O

As for the cords, There's no temperature sensors in the cords used to hook up a wall charger or a UMC so your attempt at making a point is completely lost. Where's the temp sensor on the wiring coming out of your breaker? There isn't one, so why do they all of a sudden need one in your scenario? If you don't understand VD = (2LRI)1,000 then that explains why you're clueless

You don't need temp sensors in closed hardwired connections (inside Wall Connector, inside Circuit Panels).
The temp sensor IS on your exposed spring/friction UMC plug that are most vulnerable to failure. That's why it's there.

But you're the expert. Keep running those 50 Amp extension cords.

You are a perfect case for why Tesla got rid of 14-50 adapters. reduced liability.
 
Why have to pack it at all? Mine is always in the car. I never have to think about it.

I never PLAN to need it.

Do you only pack a spare tire when you plan to have a flat?
That analogy doesn't make any sense. You can have a flat tire anywhere. You only would use a UMC if you're traveling away from home overnight and might have an opportunity to plug in. Even using it in that circumstance is rare now with the expansion of supercharging and destination charging networks. As you said, it's 2019 now, not 2013. Perhaps you don't like the idea of leaving a UMC plugged in all the time and just taking it on trips, but it's worked for years for tens of thousands of Tesla owners before you.
 
You don't need temp sensors in closed hardwired connections (inside Wall Connector, inside Circuit Panels).
The temp sensor IS on your exposed spring/friction UMC plug that are most vulnerable to failure. That's why it's there.

But you're the expert. Keep running those 50 Amp extension cords.

You are a perfect case for why Tesla got rid of 14-50 adapters. reduced liability.

Well if the sensor is in the UMC plug it's still there when you plug the UMC into the cord, you didn't lose the sensor by using a cord if the sensor is in the UMC, Therefore your comment isn't even considered a point. You haven't even explained how using a cord is any more dangerous. If there's no significant voltage drop then there no increase in heat. I challenge you to show me the heat increase by adding 25' of 6gauge cord.
 
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My point is there is more than one way to skin the charging cat....

The cord I use is UL rated for 50A CONTINIOUS. I am only running 28 amps, could not run more than 40 if I tried, older car with single charger... that is within the 25% SF required by code. I know that this may not suit many with dual chargers, M3, etc.

BTW, The Gen 2 is NOT rated for 32A, but 30. Look at the plug if you do not believe me. Tesla Tech support agreed, said the "Regulators made them do it" I did not like that answer.

The MC is the weak spot in my setup, and gets warm to the touch at 32A while the 20 ft, 1" dia welding ext core does not. I reduced the current to 28A to get a ~10% safety factor. Now the MC cord barely gets warm. I may reduce current further in the summer when the garage gets over 100 deg F.

Gen 2 MC only has a 1 year Warranty, see no need to run it at max current.

For those that note the Tesla recommendations between WC hard wire and MC plug, Consider they have to address the corner case of someone that plugs and unplugs daily for years. In my case it will seldom be unplugged.

I spent less than a WC on my entire setup, and I now have a spare MC if needed, that is portable should I move. if I get a monster RV that takes a 14-50, trivial to change the outlet, and already have the MC adapter for same.

As far as looking cool, I found a way to display the MC box that I think looks good....I can now spend a little on stuff like a Tesla sign/flag to make the garage look better.
 
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Why have to pack it at all? Mine is always in the car. I never have to think about it.

I never PLAN to need it.

Do you only pack a spare tire when you plan to have a flat?

This is literally the dumbest thing I've read on here in a while (equating the UMC with a spare tire).
Does anyone ever plan to have a flat? Of course not.
Does anyone ever plan a road trip in an EV where they may need their mobile charging cord? Of course.
In those instances, you can pack up the UMC and toss it in the trunk. The rest of the time, the UMC can be plugged into the wall via the 14-50 plug to act as a home charging station. That's what I use for my primary home charging solution.
That's the beauty of the UMC: it can be used as a permanent home charging solution AND road trip charging unit, all in 1 little package.
 
If you ask the NEC folks I am sure they will say “we have X incidences of people getting shocked each year”. GFCI can keep you from getting shocked, specifically in wet situations.

But the cynical side of me says that the industry manufacturers lobby really hard to expand GFCI and AFCI requirements as they earn like 10x as much on those breakers vs. regular ones. AFCI specifically seems like a dubious value proposition when you factor in the issues with nuance tripping.

I've yet to have a single Nuance trip with a boat load of AFCI I have. And the AFCI actually found one real problem.
 
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IMG_20190404_182910792.jpg Pic if interested. Can't park next to wall as family members have poor parking skills
 
My point is there is more than one way to skin the charging cat....

The cord I use is UL rated for 50A CONTINIOUS. I am only running 28 amps, could not run more than 40 if I tried, older car with single charger... that is within the 25% SF required by code. I know that this may not suit many with dual chargers, M3, etc.

BTW, The Gen 2 is NOT rated for 32A, but 30. Look at the plug if you do not believe me. Tesla Tech support agreed, said the "Regulators made them do it" I did not like that answer.

The MC is the weak spot in my setup, and gets warm to the touch at 32A while the 20 ft, 1" dia welding ext core does not. I reduced the current to 28A to get a ~10% safety factor. Now the MC cord barely gets warm. I may reduce current further in the summer when the garage gets over 100 deg F.

Gen 2 MC only has a 1 year Warranty, see no need to run it at max current.

For those that note the Tesla recommendations between WC hard wire and MC plug, Consider they have to address the corner case of someone that plugs and unplugs daily for years. In my case it will seldom be unplugged.

I spent less than a WC on my entire setup, and I now have a spare MC if needed, that is portable should I move. if I get a monster RV that takes a 14-50, trivial to change the outlet, and already have the MC adapter for same.

As far as looking cool, I found a way to display the MC box that I think looks good....I can now spend a little on stuff like a Tesla sign/flag to make the garage look better.
Gen 1 used to run at 40A, but eventually the ULC (in Canada) asked it to be derated to 32A for a reason.
 
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This is literally the dumbest thing I've read on here in a while (equating the UMC with a spare tire).
Does anyone ever plan to have a flat? Of course not.
Does anyone ever plan a road trip in an EV where they may need their mobile charging cord? Of course.
In those instances, you can pack up the UMC and toss it in the trunk. The rest of the time, the UMC can be plugged into the wall via the 14-50 plug to act as a home charging station. That's what I use for my primary home charging solution.
That's the beauty of the UMC: it can be used as a permanent home charging solution AND road trip charging unit, all in 1 little package.

We'll have to agree to disagree. The UMC stays in my car. I don't have to plan for anything.
If I need it, it's always there. Just as a spare tire would be. Sorry if the fact the Tesla elects to not carry a spare tire loses the analogy.

I never had to pack my ICE car differently with respect to "fueling" and I don't with an EV.

Everything is always there in the garage to just plug in, And every time I leave I don't have to think, will I need my UMC today or not.
 
You don’t want the GFCI breaker if you can get away with it.

They are:

About $100 more than non GFCI
They don’t come in “tandem” form factors so if you have limited panel space you may have an issue
They are not made for all models of panels (though most)
They often fail or result in nuisance trips

So if you are just installing in a dry location like your garage, I would do non-gfci unless required to.

It pisses me off that they added this to electrical code just for EV’s when every EVSE has built in GFCI ability already. So this ONLY covers you for the connection from the EVSE to the wall. Unless that is in a wet location, you are not very likely to make use of the GFCI safety feature.

Until they require GFCI’s at every RV park (where people plug in constantly in the rain) then I think the code requirement just for EV’s is unfair.
This is why I suggested the compromise involving the disconnecting switch.
 
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Not sure I saw anyone above make this point about the Wall Connector (WC) vs. a suitable outlet: Wall Connectors can fail. If they are hard-wired, you are stuck being unable to charge at home unless you have a suitable outlet and the appropriate adapter. It can be costly to disconnect and ship the WC back to Tesla. If it is in warranty and Tesla agrees to send out a technician, you may have to wait.

In my own case, when my WC failed, Tesla did send out an electrician, who tested it and replaced it. But I had to wait about 2 weeks for the appointment. In the meantime, i had to charge elsewhere, mainly at a nearby Supercharger.

After this experience, I posted that people who install WCs at home should consider wiring in a 240-volt outlet as well, as a contingency.