Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Nema 14-50 cost

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
We are in the process of building a new home, have a 2021 Model Y and are planning on having a MEMA 14-50 and deicated 50 amp breaker installed from the get go. That being said, based on the comments I've read on this forum, I am not certain the electrician that the builder has hired is install the NEMA outlet using the correct materials. What makes me question this is his reference to the #6 Romex he plans on using. Please see the information we received from him via email below. Any thoughts or comments would be greatly appreciated.

Comments from the installing electrician:

"Hey guys,

Most of the cost on these is the wire itself. To achieve 50 amps I'll have to run #6-3 Romex.

For up to 100 linear feet of wire, 2pole 50 amp breaker in panel, 2gang box with a NEMA 14-50 outlet and plate- $1325.00 per unit installed."
#6 Romex is totally fine for a 50A circuit, because the rating of that cable is up to 55A. People get into problems trying to do 60A circuits with it.
The one other thing that is a little touchy is that electric code is going to require using an expensive GFCI breaker for an outlet to charge an EV. It's kind of an annoying requirement, and a lot of places are out of stock and having a hard time getting them. And please specify to not use a super cheap-o Leviton brand outlet. Any of Bryant, Cooper, or Hubbel would be fine.
 
Thank you for the recommendations Rocky. I will definitely pass on the GFCI details to my general contractor. The price we were quoted was $1325. There will be a 56' run of wire from the breaker box to the NEMA out. Does the $1325 price seem reasonable at the current time?
It cost me $691CAD to install a wall connector with 30ft of cable that is good for 75A on a 60A circuit. He hid the cable through to ceiling and walls so it is completely invisible.

Your quote seems a bit expensive but there might be things specific to you that are making the price be so high.
 
You may think that way, but apparently many electricians don't. If you ask them to install something for an EV, I've seen in other threads that they do charge more than if you ask them to install the same thing, but don't tell them it's for an EV. And it has nothing to do with the labor or parts increasing (you can check they use the same), just that they feel they can charge you more if it's for an EV.
Tell them it’s for a Chevy Bolt and maybe they will give you a discount.
 
  • Funny
Reactions: Ormond
Tell them it’s for a Chevy Bolt and maybe they will give you a discount.
I really don’t think it matters. My electrician gave me the itemized bill and other than charging me $20 more for the breaker, they charged me what it would cost me to buy the cable and the same hourly price that they charge everyone.

It 100% depends on the electricians though. One certified by Tesla quoted me $960 when this one charged me $300 less
 
  • Like
Reactions: matj1285
Thank you for the recommendations Rocky. I will definitely pass on the GFCI details to my general contractor. The price we were quoted was $1325. There will be a 56' run of wire from the breaker box to the NEMA out. Does the $1325 price seem reasonable at the current time?
I guess that sounds pretty OK. Maybe a little high. Remember that electricians and all kinds of trades are really in demand right now, so they have plenty of work of large jobs they could be doing, so they are going to charge pretty decently for the overhead time losses of doing these kinds of quick small jobs. So just to bid and show up to your house is going to be at least $200, even if it takes only 1 minute of work. So for 56 feet and having to go over or through some walls, I could see that being several hundred.
 
I just got a quote from my electrician to install a 14-50 just below my breaker box and it came back at $600. 😳
Sounds like my setup. New 14-50 on carport that's about 7 to 8 feet above the supply panel (inside, in basement).

Installation was quick and easy, he charged me $700 which included a GFCI box and breaker (between the outlet and supply panel). And a two new breakers for my supply panel (we had to double-up a few circuits to get room for the new 50 amp breaker).
 
Remember that electricians and all kinds of trades are really in demand right now, so they have plenty of work of large jobs they could be doing, …
It was exactly this situation that motivated me to flip into DIY mode and install my own 240v receptacle. Involved more reading & studying than actual labor but the experience was enlightening. For example, I learned the difference between 14-50 and 6-50 receptacles and since I had to make a 70’ run I chose to install a 6-50 receptacle. If you have the time and inclination you might try it yourself. I took out a permit and found the local inspector to be extremely helpful and willing to impart all sorts of advice. An added plus was he then did the final inspection and gave me the peace of mind that I had performed the work properly.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Rocky_H and nwdiver
It was exactly this situation that motivated me to flip into DIY mode and install my own 240v receptacle. Involved more reading & studying than actual labor but the experience was enlightening. For example, I learned the difference between 14-50 and 6-50 receptacles and since I had to make a 70’ run I chose to install a 6-50 receptacle. If you have the time and inclination you might try it yourself. I took out a permit and found the local inspector to be extremely helpful and willing to impart all sorts of advice. An added plus was he then did the final inspection and gave me the peace of mind that I had performed the work properly.
Unfortunately the city I live in requires a permit from a licensed electrician.
 
I just got a quote from my electrician for $800 he is charging $215 for Permit. do they really charge that high for permit? is permit or final inspection even needed?
I’d get a second quote, but depending upon how far the run is from your breaker panel, that’s right in line with what you would expect. I don’t know about in Ashburn, but a permit is required where I live and that cost is in line with what I would pay. If that permit price is more than what the inspector actually charges, that’s going to be because the electrician needs to make a 2nd trip to your house for the inspection.
 
  • Informative
  • Like
Reactions: nwdiver and Rocky_H
I just got a quote from my electrician for $800 he is charging $215 for Permit. do they really charge that high for permit? is permit or final inspection even needed?
Permit fees vary, so you can look into what your local jurisdiction costs. But realize that it may not be just the permit fees but also covering the electrician's time needed for the permitting/inspection process.
 
I had a 14-50 outlet installed last weekend in the CA Bay Area. I received two quotes, both were $600. It was a short 3’ run from my breaker. No GCFI breaker, no permit, and the electrician used the ubiquitous Leviton outlet. And I told both electricians that the job was for a new Tesla. I did not need to make up any stories about installing a welder’s outlet, but I was up front about getting multiple quotes.
 
I had a 14-50 outlet installed last weekend in the CA Bay Area. I received two quotes, both were $600. It was a short 3’ run from my breaker. No GCFI breaker, no permit, and the electrician used the ubiquitous Leviton outlet. And I told both electricians that the job was for a new Tesla. I did not need to make up any stories about installing a welder’s outlet, but I was up front about getting multiple quotes.

The gfci breaker isn’t required yet in many localities because they are enforcing older code years. In my area the newest code anyone is inforcing is NEC2017 but most are on NEC2014
 
  • Like
Reactions: pepperoni
The gfci breaker isn’t required yet in many localities because they are enforcing older code years. In my area the newest code anyone is inforcing is NEC2017 but most are on NEC2014
I was personally just fine not having to pay for a GFCI breaker and have a nuisance trip leave me with a low battery in the morning. I doubt I’ll ever unplug my mobile connector, so not concerned about shock hazard.

I’m still trying to gauge the risk of the Leviton outlet based on my readings on this forum. It’s a UL certified 50 amp outlet so should be good for my 32 amp mobile connector, right? I know there are documented cases here of these failing, but there are also many more of these cheap connectors out in the wild than the more expensive Hubbels, so of course a failed outlet is more likely to be Leviton. At least that is what I keep telling myself. Chances are my OCD self will eventually break down and install a higher grade outlet.
 
I was personally just fine not having to pay for a GFCI breaker and have a nuisance trip leave me with a low battery in the morning. I doubt I’ll ever unplug my mobile connector, so not concerned about shock hazard.

I’m still trying to gauge the risk of the Leviton outlet based on my readings on this forum. It’s a UL certified 50 amp outlet so should be good for my 32 amp mobile connector, right? I know there are documented cases here of these failing, but there are also many more of these cheap connectors out in the wild than the more expensive Hubbels, so of course a failed outlet is more likely to be Leviton. At least that is what I keep telling myself. Chances are my OCD self will eventually break down and install a higher grade outlet.
That's not the only difference, the Leviton prongs are only half length (if you peer into the socket you can see this), which causes them to generate more heat. That is likely a big contributing factor to it failing more often than others. There are other cheap options available that cost almost the same that have full length prongs.
Master Thread: Definitive 14-50 NEMA Outlet Guide

For example the Utilitech is available at Lowes for $10:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Utilitech-Black-50-Amp-Round-Range-Industrial-Range/3775483

The Bryant 9450FR is available for $45 at Grainger and is almost identical with the expensive Hubbell. I picked this option personally as the $35 difference is worth the peace of mind.
https://www.grainger.com/product/BRYANT-Receptacle-50-A-Amps-Plugs-49YY93
Note for both Bryant and Hubbell you will need to a different cover plate, as the diameter of the circle is bigger.
https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/posts/6266356/

The difference with the Bryant/Hubbell with ones like Utilitech is the connection for the wires are a lot more secure (as well as the whole outlet being beefier), given it's not depending directly on the screw to hold the wires (there is a v-shaped piece that clamps down). First page of the outlet guide shows this difference.
https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/master-thread-definitive-14-50-nema-outlet-guide.140694/
 
Last edited:
That's not the only difference, the Leviton prongs are only half length (if you peer into the socket you can see this), which causes them to generate more heat. That is likely a big contributing factor to it failing more often than others. There are other cheap options available that cost almost the same that have full length prongs.
Master Thread: Definitive 14-50 NEMA Outlet Guide

For example the Utilitech is available at Lowes for $10:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Utilitech-Black-50-Amp-Round-Range-Industrial-Range/3775483

The Bryant 9450FR is available for $45 at Grainger and is almost identical with the expensive Hubbell. I picked this option personally as the $35 difference is worth the peace of mind.
https://www.grainger.com/product/BRYANT-Receptacle-50-A-Amps-Plugs-49YY93
Note for both Bryant and Hubbell you will need to a different cover plate, as the diameter of the circle is bigger.
https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/posts/6266356/

The difference with the Bryant/Hubbell with ones like Utilitech is the connection for the wires are a lot more secure (as well as the whole outlet being beefier), given it's not depending directly on the screw to hold the wires (there is a v-shaped piece that clamps down). First page of the outlet guide shows this difference.
https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/master-thread-definitive-14-50-nema-outlet-guide.140694/
Thank you! There is some terrific information here. I will likely swap out the Leviton for the Bryant. My speculation is that many of the failed Leviton outlets are due to a loose screw terminal, and it looks like the Ulitech has that in common.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Rocky_H and Genie
Thank you! There is some terrific information here. I will likely swap out the Leviton for the Bryant. My speculation is that many of the failed Leviton outlets are due to a loose screw terminal, and it looks like the Ulitech has that in common.
Yes, some of the reviews of one of the other cheap options (Enerlites on Amazon) say stripped terminals are a problem that can cause issues. A lot of the cheaper options use similar terminals.
Master Thread: Definitive 14-50 NEMA Outlet Guide
 
  • Like
Reactions: Rocky_H