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SabrToothSqrl
Active Member
Cyclone
Cyclonic Member ((.oO))
JohnSnowNW
Active Member
travwill
Active Member
You have the 4 wires running as a bundle together instead? Being encased in the metal conduit is really the required code in just about everywhere.
Cyclone
Cyclonic Member ((.oO))
Cool. I like the idea of feeding a 120v/20amp plug off one leg so you have a secondary option as well.
Also contractors, plumbers, gardeners can use the 120v plug and if they blow up the box, that extension is fully exposed and easy to fix. Other side of the garage has 120v plugs but built into the wall.
Cottonwood
Roadster#433, Model S#S37
Notice the sizes of the conduits. The 14-50 and 120V outlets are probably on separate circuits and the two sets of wires for the two circuits are just run in the same conduit to the 14-50 box with the 120V wires continuing on to the 120V outlets.
Cyclone
Cyclonic Member ((.oO))
That is essentially what I have. All my existing outlets are on a shared 20 amp breaker and behind walls. Its there for my emergency 4 mi/hr charging. I will be getting a 14-50 installed, but need to get the garage cleared up first so the there is room for the new outlet. I wanted to also put a 120v 20a outlet there as well. I never realized this before, but is the 14-50 4-wire simply two 120v hots (on separate legs of a combined breaker), neutral, and ground? If so, that might have been DIY capable if I had room in the existing box for new breakers. I plan to get an electrician since I need a subpanel, but good to know for the future.
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Ahh. This makes more sense to how I originally envisioned my setup would become. No reason the wires cannot run together. Looking at ny's install, I thought it was continuing one leg of the 14-50 install.
JohnSnowNW
Active Member
Yup, I would have expected this too as Minneapolis has some rather specific code requirements for most things. However, if it is code here both the electrician and inspector are unaware of it.
My inspector would have failed that installation, unless you used #10 to feed the 20A receptacles. Assuming you have 2 different circuits - one for 14-50 and one for the 120V receptacles - you have 5 current-carrying conductors in that raceway, and per 310.15(B)(3)(a) you must derate to 80%. If #12 was used, then you're only good for 16A with those conductors, and a 20A receptacle couldn't be installed. You could install 15A receptacles and be legal in this case (no T-blade).
If my assumption is wrong and the 120V receptacles were connected to the 50A conductors, that's a major violation. No electrician would do that (but I know plenty of DIY'ers who would).
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You may not tie a 120V/15A or 20A receptacle to a 50A circuit conductor protected by a 50A breaker.
If my assumption is wrong and the 120V receptacles were connected to the 50A conductors, that's a major violation. No electrician would do that (but I know plenty of DIY'ers who would).
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You may not tie a 120V/15A or 20A receptacle to a 50A circuit conductor protected by a 50A breaker.
Cyclone
Cyclonic Member ((.oO))
Thanks Flasher. That's what I originally thought and jumped to an assumption from that photo. As you say, it could very well be a separate run in the same conduit for the 120v 20a plugs. Personally, I need a sub-panel anyway, so the electrician installing that will wire me up too since the outlet will be right next to the panel.
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