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NEMA 14-50 Plug Meltdown / Near Fire

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Yeah, pretty sure there's no such thing as solid 6 AWG. I'd expect that to be somewhat fragile and dangerous.

Interesting that the 80A Gen 2 Wall Connector advises ferrules, they surely must be legal then, at least for this appliance, but I'd still question the legality of using them on a breaker or outlet that's designed for bare wire. I thought I read something in the NEC code stating that ferrules were only legal if factory-installed but maybe that only applies to smaller wires that are more subject to amateur installations.

The 200A stranded mains don't have ferrules in any breaker panel I've seen, nor do the common 50A-100A circuits for subpanels, A/C, Jacuzzi, Dryer, Stove, etc. but perhaps the difference with all of those things is that you can hold the loose breaker/outlet in one hand while inserting the wire with the other. The HPWC requires you to fish the wire blindly into a dark hole and just hope it's in right. Maybe that's why they suggest ferrules?
FWIW: I re-check the torque once a year on those connection points depicted in your photo, along with the connection points on my 60 amp cb.
 
You're talking about this like lugs and ferrules are two totally opposite things, and it should be only one or the other, but that's not right. They accomplish different functions, but they are very commonly used together.

Ferrules are to gather together and hold all of the strands of stranded wire at the end of a cut so it can be attached solidly, without some of the strands getting squashed out the sides and not really being connected or carrying any current, thereby losing some of the conductivity of your wire.

And then the lug is the screw pressing part to clamp onto the wire for the electrical connection.

They work very well together to crimp a ferrule onto the end, and then you put that ferruled part into the lug to clamp it down to make sure the lug is making a more solid connection to all of the strands.

I agree with your assessment and correcting my terminology. As a utility/power engineer, I'd never seen the term ferrule used until I found these forums. For terminating welding type power cables, we'd frequently specify hi press lugs (T&B) on the ends of cables, and they were always called "lugs" in the trade. They were single or double holed, and terminated directly to switchgear busbars or drawout breakers.
 
Answers to your questions in bracketed red text below. [Thank you! I am blessed and very lucky!]
I usually do not max out the current ratings....instead of the 32 amps, I am adjusting it to about 21-15 amps. Charging at 32 amps heats up the cable and the Tesla charger....yes it takes a little while but you are safe specially at night or low peak hours.
 
Wow. Glad no one was hurt and your house is ok. A $2 apprentice’s screw driver and a $6 14-50 receptacle can definitely lead to problems. A loose connection generates heat and over time heating and cooling of the termination makes the connection worse.

I don’t recommend anyone do it..... unless your qualified and your OCD, but it’s a good idea to pull all of your switches/plugs, use a good screw driver and make sure the connections are tight. Do the main panel too. I checked my own house that was built in 2015 when we moved in in 2017, and found several, less than tight connections. You can also find stripped screws where someone over tightened, and that leads to the same issues.
 
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