-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
New construction home...what to request from the builder re: electrical
- Thread starter Graveworks
- Start date
Heh, I had to think about it for a few seconds too.
poison = poisonous exhaust fumes
ice = internal combustion engine vehicle
Skotty
2014 S P85 | 2023 F-150L
No one does that. But they should! I would do it too, if building a new home. I'm soooooo tired of squeezing in and out of doors that can only be opened 1/4 or 1/3 of the way, and having to carefully protect the neighboring car from door dents caused by children, and even adults on rare occasion.
I would look into the incremental cost of a Tesla solar roof and battery pack vs. standard roofing. It will be significant if you're not planning a premium roof, but you would be the first on your block, would be financing it at mortgage rate, and surely this is the most cost-effective timing.
I am having a new place built as well, and just picked our options.
My option for the garage outlet was 220v 60 amp outlet. Will this work for my car? They didn't have a pic of the socket. Also, shouldn't it be 240v? I do have an HPWC at my current place, but that was because it was only 30amp I could get. Should I have the 220v 60amp installed by the builder for $750? Or just have an electrician run me an outlet for a 14-50 outlet? The panel is already in the garage so it would not be a far run. Ideally I'd like to sell my HPWC to fund the new outlet.
Thoughts?
My option for the garage outlet was 220v 60 amp outlet. Will this work for my car? They didn't have a pic of the socket. Also, shouldn't it be 240v? I do have an HPWC at my current place, but that was because it was only 30amp I could get. Should I have the 220v 60amp installed by the builder for $750? Or just have an electrician run me an outlet for a 14-50 outlet? The panel is already in the garage so it would not be a far run. Ideally I'd like to sell my HPWC to fund the new outlet.
Thoughts?
Almost always easier and cheaper to install wire before the walls are up.
I had a sub panel near the garage. Had to get about 80' of cable and installed a 14-50 outlet.
The cable, breaker and outlet cost about 300$ if I remember correctly. I also had an easy run, no snaking wire. I could also install myself.
So add the cost of wire, permit, box, and electrician I would guess you could pay about 750$ For an 14-50. After the fact. Really depends on the situation.
Distance to breaker, breaker box is large enough handle the load. Main breaker is also large enough.
If the breaker boxes are large enough and have extra spaces, and close >30' to socket. Could be cheaper to have done after the fact.
But could be a pain and not worth saving the few hundred. In the cost of a house not really something to spend much time worry about.
mspohr
Well-Known Member
I had a new two car detached garage built. Two 14-50 sockets.
Also, garage is 28 feet wide so lots of room for stuff.
Also, garage is 28 feet wide so lots of room for stuff.
A 60A outlet is almost useless. Thete is no UMC adapter for a 60A outlet because they're so rare. If you want a 60A circuit so you can charge at 48A, wire your HPWC to it and forget about the outlet. Or just have them wire a 50A circuit with 14-50 outlet. And yes it's 240V not 220.
I would have a 14-50 outlet installed. This will be the least expensive option and the most versatile. It will be plenty fast for overnight charging.
See the link posted above to Tesla's 14-50 install guide to give your electrician.
GSP
Thanks all! Unfortunately with the builder my only options was a 20amp outlet and 60amp outlet at 220v. This didn't make sense to me.
I think I will just have my electrician wire a 14-50 outlet for me after the fact. With the panel already in the garage, it would be a very short run. And this way I know I am getting the proper outlet and voltage for my car. With my UMC then I will get more than sufficient charging speed for my needs, and can sell my HPWC.
I think I will just have my electrician wire a 14-50 outlet for me after the fact. With the panel already in the garage, it would be a very short run. And this way I know I am getting the proper outlet and voltage for my car. With my UMC then I will get more than sufficient charging speed for my needs, and can sell my HPWC.
As long as you're paying for 60A wiring and breaker, it doesn't make sense to me to pay to substitute a 50A breaker and outlet if you already have a HPWC. Just have the HPWC hard wired into that circuit and charge at 48A. How much do you think you can get for a used HPWC? They're only $500 new.
My issue is with them saying it is 220v. I don't want to pay them to do a 60amp at 220v, and then realize I have to redo a new outlet anyway at 240v. I'd do 60amp if it was at 220v. But they are also running me an outlet. So then I'd have to pay additional to get my HPWC wired into it as well by an electrician. So why pay $750 for the outlet then more for the electrician to come wire it when I could just have him do it right from the start?
The 220V is just a colloquialism from the old days. It's like people talking about 110 outlets when they're actually 120. The power company sends approx. 240V to your house. The breaker, wiring, outlet he will use are all for 240V as there is no such thing as different ones for 220V (actually all that mattters for the circuit is the amps anyway). To do it right the first time, as long as it seems you've paid for a 60A circuit already, just forget the outlet and have the electrician install the HPWC hard wired on that circuit.
There has to be some misunderstanding here. There is effectively no way to have a 60A outlet in a house. The NEMA 14-60R outlet exists, but the US electrical code does not allow receptacles over 50A in residential installations. Plus, it simply makes no sense for them to say they will install 60A but not do 50A. Tell them to put in a 14-50 with 50A breaker/wiring. If they can't figure that out, find someone else.
As was already addressed, 120V and 240V are the real values, but 110 and 220 are just leftover old fashioned terms that some people just can't get over using. But I don't get this terribly limited lack of options. A 20A or 60A circuit--that's it? Not even a 30A? 30A is really common for several kinds of things. Anyway, I would probably fight with the builder a bit on this, because it should be pretty easy to spec out what you really want with a 60A circuit for the wall connector. They just need to know: 60A breaker, this gauge of wire (two hots and a ground), connected out to this location on the wall, and I have a wall-mounted appliance to connect to it there. That's pretty straightforward.
(I don't quite remember the wire gauge for 60A. I'd have to look it up, and it depends on whether it's in wall or in conduit sometimes, but the electrician will know those specifications if you just say it's a 60A circuit.)
In order of decreasing charge current options would be the following. If you are using an HPWC, be sure to set the internal switches to match the circuit breaker value.
60 amp circuit, hard-wired to an HPWC. Net would be 48 amps charging. I think #6 wire might do it, but you may need to go to #4 if the run is long enough. No option for an outlet with this one.
50 amp circuit, either hardwired to an HPWC or connect to a 14-50 "RV" outlet. #6 wire needed ("6/3 with ground"), two hots, neutral, and ground. Don't forget the neutral, even though the HPWC doesn't use it. The outlet needs it for code, and even if you're going with the HPWC, you might as well pull the extra wire so that you can install an outlet later (think resale). If using the outlet, use the UMC and the included 14-50 adapter. Net 40 amps charging.
30 amp circuit, either hardwired to an HPWC or connect to a 14-30 "Dryer" outlet. I believe #10 wire is allowed here, but I would use #8. UMC would need a 14-30 adapter purchased from Tesla (not included). Net 24 amps charging.
The least expensive and most common option is the second one (14-50 outlet), and is what I did as an upgrade. Prior to that, I used the existing 30 amp dryer outlet (24 amps charging) for several years, and that worked just fine. I only did the upgrade because there was a tax credit that was about to expire, and I found out that my main panel was a brand that isn't sold anymore because they tend to fail (as in, catch fire). Given the higher demand with the EV, I upgraded the whole lot, and all is working. But to be honest, having the higher charging current available hasn't really changed things at all. I never had a problem getting a full charge over night at the lower rate (and still don't). I just sleep better, knowing the panel is safe.
edit: Oh, I also installed a pair of regular 120v 20 amp GFI outlets next to the 14-50, just to have them. Given all the work with the panel upgrade, they were basically free.
60 amp circuit, hard-wired to an HPWC. Net would be 48 amps charging. I think #6 wire might do it, but you may need to go to #4 if the run is long enough. No option for an outlet with this one.
50 amp circuit, either hardwired to an HPWC or connect to a 14-50 "RV" outlet. #6 wire needed ("6/3 with ground"), two hots, neutral, and ground. Don't forget the neutral, even though the HPWC doesn't use it. The outlet needs it for code, and even if you're going with the HPWC, you might as well pull the extra wire so that you can install an outlet later (think resale). If using the outlet, use the UMC and the included 14-50 adapter. Net 40 amps charging.
30 amp circuit, either hardwired to an HPWC or connect to a 14-30 "Dryer" outlet. I believe #10 wire is allowed here, but I would use #8. UMC would need a 14-30 adapter purchased from Tesla (not included). Net 24 amps charging.
The least expensive and most common option is the second one (14-50 outlet), and is what I did as an upgrade. Prior to that, I used the existing 30 amp dryer outlet (24 amps charging) for several years, and that worked just fine. I only did the upgrade because there was a tax credit that was about to expire, and I found out that my main panel was a brand that isn't sold anymore because they tend to fail (as in, catch fire). Given the higher demand with the EV, I upgraded the whole lot, and all is working. But to be honest, having the higher charging current available hasn't really changed things at all. I never had a problem getting a full charge over night at the lower rate (and still don't). I just sleep better, knowing the panel is safe.
edit: Oh, I also installed a pair of regular 120v 20 amp GFI outlets next to the 14-50, just to have them. Given all the work with the panel upgrade, they were basically free.
I added another 200 amp panel to run 100amp copper cable to 2 HPWCs. The new chargers adjust their amperage based on what's demanded by each car. If you don't put panel in garage you'll still need emergency shutoff within sight of chargers. I put the new panel on off peak rate and run floor heat and the cars at 2.6 cents per kWh. It works great! Good luck!
As long as you know that the electrical panel is in the garage, your plan will work out fine. However, my main panel is on the other side of the house and it would be 5X the cost for me to install my two 50 amp circuits today compared to when the walls were open during construction.
Similar threads
