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Interesting. Max power is 60A/48A for the Gen3 vs 100A/80A for the Gen2. Guess this means there won’t be future Teslas with higher rates of charge. Figured the 80A output in a Gen2 was for future proofing. :shrug:
Personally, I prefer the Gen2. Lower profile, longer cable, and comes in black.
You can always add a cord.
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/smart-choice-6-50-amp-4-prong-range-cord-black/3921073.p?skuId=3921073
Interesting. Max power is 60A/48A for the Gen3 vs 100A/80A for the Gen2. Guess this means there won’t be future Teslas with higher rates of charge. Figured the 80A output in a Gen2 was for future proofing. :shrug:
Personally, I prefer the Gen2. Lower profile, longer cable, and comes in black.
You can always add a cord.
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/smart-choice-6-50-amp-4-prong-range-cord-black/3921073.p?skuId=3921073
But I don’t see a reason to upgrade, at all.
The WiFi “benefits” can be accomplished when your car is attached via app.
Comparing a wall connector to an air conditioning unit is silly. The HPWC is not drawing any major power unless you are charging your vehicle, and the onboard computer can easily handle OTA updates/features, etc.
There is no supply cable to change out. It’s a matter of installing a plug vs installing hardwire coming from the wall. Presumably, if a plug was being used, the wiring would come out the top or bottom. Wiring would only go out the back when hard wired. And yes, the Wall Connector can be set to 50A breaker/40A output to limit power through a 14-50 outlet.Yah I suppose are they easy to pop open and change out the supply cable. I imagine it would just be terminal lugs. And I assume it is easy to set to max 40 amps. It might be a problem if the supply cord just came out the back. Hmmmm.
There is no supply cable to change out. It’s a matter of installing a plug vs installing hardwire coming from the wall. Presumably, if a plug was being used, the wiring would come out the top or bottom. Wiring would only go out the back when hard wired. And yes, the Wall Connector can be set to 50A breaker/40A output to limit power through a 14-50 outlet.
My Wall Connector is setup with a plug.
View attachment 500803
There is no supply cable to change out. It’s a matter of installing a plug vs installing hardwire coming from the wall. Presumably, if a plug was being used, the wiring would come out the top or bottom. Wiring would only go out the back when hard wired. And yes, the Wall Connector can be set to 50A breaker/40A output to limit power through a 14-50 outlet.
My Wall Connector is setup with a plug.
View attachment 500803
Too late to edit my previous post. To be clear, we already have a 14-50 receptacle for the Juicebox. So keeping it simple, what will I have to do to be able to plug in a HPWC
Here is Tesla's installation detail for the HPWC
I haven't looked very closely at the Gen 3, but the Gen 2 is a hard-wire configuration (no plug). Tesla used to sell a Wall Connector with a 14-50 plug, but your peak charging amperage is limited (compared to hard-wired, assuming proper wiring). And it is no longer available.
So @Black306 either has one of the Wall Connectors with the 14-50 lead OR had theirs wired with a plug (though I would be surprised if it were the latter)
It depends on your needs/uses. Where in the app does it currently let me track power used over time?
Also, if you have people using the WC that aren't on your Tesla account you wouldn't get any data for them would you?
I suspect an upgrade will be most valuable for people with Powerwalls.
Here is Tesla's installation detail for the HPWC
I haven't looked very closely at the Gen 3, but the Gen 2 is a hard-wire configuration (no plug). Tesla used to sell a Wall Connector with a 14-50 plug, but your peak charging amperage is limited (compared to hard-wired, assuming proper wiring). And it is no longer available.
So @Black306 either has one of the Wall Connectors with the 14-50 lead OR had theirs wired with a plug (though I would be surprised if it were the latter)
Agreed there isn’t really a reason to “upgrade” a gen 2 to 3.
If you are buying new it makes plenty of sense as it likely gets you a utility rebate.
Sorry - I wasn't sure if you knew about that. A lot of people don't.I am aware of the corded connecter but get the impression it is no longer available.
Awesome!Just got the video to work. Questions answered. Thanks.
Great find! Using the wifi for power sharing seems a little "solution looking for a problem" me - I mean, pulling the RS-485 cable between wall connectors for previous generation wasn't a big deal... especially if you're daisy-chaining power anyway.
I would hope I could still run it the other way, and actually daisy-chain the power feed.
That setup you are talking about is not daisy chained power. The power connections would still work the same way, whether it is a version 2 or version 3. You can branch them from that box if you make that box be a small subpanel or junction box. That's how these are done. Daisy chaining means that you run one single power line into Wall Connector 1 and then out of it to Wall connector 2. They have never worked that way. You have always needed to branch the connections at some point father upstream with a subpanel or junction box and then run a power line to each connector. There is no difference with that in the version 3.Long story short, I have an outdoor Wall Connector, fed from a 60a breaker. It's got an outdoor disconnect box as well.
What I wanted to do if/when we acquire another EV, was to add a 2nd Wall Connector. Feed the power off that disconnect box, and then connect the RS-485 between them. Current charger is on right side of garage; the other would be on the left.
What I really don't want to do is put in a sub panel, or a second power run just for the 2nd Wall Connector. If I have to, I would... but in my case, it's easier to just daisy chain the power.
Just curious: if you already have a Juicebox, what's your reason to change? I don't have anything myself, just trying to learn for future reference.To be clear, we already have a 14-50 receptacle for the Juicebox.
Never ever doubt Rocky. He knows.You never could daisy chain the power connections.
That setup you are talking about is not daisy chained power. The power connections would still work the same way, whether it is a version 2 or version 3. You can branch them from that box if you make that box be a small subpanel or junction box. That's how these are done. Daisy chaining means that you run one single power line into Wall Connector 1 and then out of it to Wall connector 2. They have never worked that way. You have always needed to branch the connections at some point father upstream with a subpanel or junction box and then run a power line to each connector. There is no difference with that in the version 3.
So it is certainly not a solution looking for a problem. It completely eliminates an extra wiring run that used to have to be done before with the twisted pair for the communication. That part is now wireless, so the wall connectors don't need a physical connection directly between them anymore.
That makes the target audience extremely limited and situational for this product.
Idk, it just seems weird to spend resources on producing new hardware when they have plenty of software and production issues with current products they could be working through.
Maybe I missed countless threads of people up in arms about needing a shorter cord that provides less amps for the same price?