New house, new 14-50

[CharleyBC]

We're moving to a new home in a couple weeks, leaving our nice 14-50 behind in Sacramento. We'll need a NEMA 14-50 in the new garage. I've already verified there's capacity in the panel, and it'll be a nice short run since the panel is in the garage.

So I'm contemplating doing it myself. I've done lots of home electrical work, doing wire runs, installing new light fixtures, outlets, and even a whole new 120V/15A circuit once or twice.

I also have a lot of respect for the fact that we're talking "bigger electrons" here at 240V/40-50A. So what do y'all think? Hire an electrician to be 100% sure it's done safely? Embark on a DIY?

Either way, here's one thing that has come up on the forum, that I can't find right now: Folks have recommended against the inexpensive 14-50 outlets that don't hold up well to repeated unplugging and plugging. There's a particular brand people have recommended as being more durable--a bit more costly but worth it. Does anyone remember the brand/model?

Thanks for all input!

 

[P3Orion]

Hubbell Definitive 14-50 NEMA Outlet Guide

 

[kwoody51]

Do you know how to use an Allen wrench and shut off a breaker/ your main panel?

If so you are golden!

Honestly the hardest part of this whole install is fishing the wire. The rest is super easy assuming you know what wire goes to what terminal.

It’s no different than a 120v circuit, just one more wire to hook up. Just make sure you connections are nice and tight at the outlet and you may want to check them after a number of charge cycles.

+1 to a Hubbell or Bryant outlet. Better to spend $30 and know you have quality than $10 and worry your plug is the weak link.

 

[I'm_Jp]

Get an electrician, don't let him/her know that its for a car. During installation, leave the tesla elsewhere. Should be little money.

 

[user212_nr]

There is nothing special about 240v. It uses 2 120v phases (ie. black/black or black/red instead of black/white), and I'm sure you already know that.

The real question is, do you go through the process of securing permits for your work.

Electricians in your area will overcharge you for the "privilege" of having a Tesla, so you do well to keep the money and it will be interesting work.

 

[TydalForce]

I did mine myself. Why? Because I'm crazy.
If you're going to attempt this, do a lot of research. Watch a lot of videos. Don't skimp on the parts.
It was my first time opening the breaker box. Scary!

So far nothing's melted, exploded, or burned up. YMMV.

 

[Msjulie]

The only question is inspection; when/if the time comes to sell, be sure what you did matches code faithfully so no notice is triggered that something might not be completely correct.

 

[Rottenapplr]

We're moving to a new home in a couple weeks, leaving our nice 14-50 behind in Sacramento. We'll need a NEMA 14-50 in the new garage. I've already verified there's capacity in the panel, and it'll be a nice short run since the panel is in the garage.

So I'm contemplating doing it myself. I've done lots of home electrical work, doing wire runs, installing new light fixtures, outlets, and even a whole new 120V/15A circuit once or twice.

I also have a lot of respect for the fact that we're talking "bigger electrons" here at 240V/40-50A. So what do y'all think? Hire an electrician to be 100% sure it's done safely? Embark on a DIY?

Either way, here's one thing that has come up on the forum, that I can't find right now: Folks have recommended against the inexpensive 14-50 outlets that don't hold up well to repeated unplugging and plugging. There's a particular brand people have recommended as being more durable--a bit more costly but worth it. Does anyone remember the brand/model?

Thanks for all input!

I do a lot of diy projects but I really didn’t feel comfortable doing electrical work. So I got a pro and paid $950, and got back $500 in rebates. It was worth it. They submitted all paperwork to the city and it passed inspection with no issues.

 

[user212_nr]

The only question is inspection; when/if the time comes to sell, be sure what you did matches code faithfully so no notice is triggered that something might not be completely correct.

Exactly. Inspection is the only question.

To be perfectly legal you technically "must" get the permits and inspections. Many electricians and experienced DIYers do not, but it is moral gray area.

Someone made a good point that for an new DIYer getting a permit is like getting free help b/c you have access to the electrical knowledge of the inspector who will advise you on the project.

 

[adrianp89]

It's super easy, do it your self.

 

[Sklith]

You don't even need to pull the main power to add a 240V 50A breker.

 

[Scrannel]

In Los Angeles, a homeowner is allowed to do electrical work, then get it inspected. The homeowner does not need to pull a permit (unless something change very recently). You're in Sacramento, so not sure if it's diff. Did mine myself as it was also close to the box. About $80 and an hour's time.

 

[CharleyBC]

Thanks to all for your input!!

The rest is super easy assuming you know what wire goes to what terminal.

Actually, clue me in on that. I’m used to hot/neutral/ground from lots of projects. In a 14-50 we have two hots. Which one goes where?

Speaking of wire, 6 AWG, right? Romex or individual wires in conduit? And does the length of run affect the answer? (I could install right beside the panel with a 2-foot run, but that’s on the wrong side of the car, as well as the less convenient half of a 2-car garage. Or I could go up into the attic and back down the opposite wall, so maybe a 30- or 40-foot run.)

 

[jdcollins5]

Thanks to all for your input!!


Actually, clue me in on that. I’m used to hot/neutral/ground from lots of projects. In a 14-50 we have two hots. Which one goes where?

Speaking of wire, 6 AWG, right? Romex or individual wires in conduit? And does the length of run affect the answer? (I could install right beside the panel with a 2-foot run, but that’s on the wrong side of the car, as well as the less convenient half of a 2-car garage. Or I could go up into the attic and back down the opposite wall, so maybe a 30- or 40-foot run.)

‘The wire colors are black and red for the two hot wires. White for the neutral and green for the ground. The terminals on the receptacle are typically gold for the two hot wires or labeled L1 and L2. Black or red makes no difference. The neutral terminal will be silver and the ground terminal will be green. Be sure to mount the receptacle with the round hole (ground) at the top so the adapter hangs down.

‘In the panel the black and red go on the two-pole 50A breaker. The white neutral goes to the neutral bar with all of the other white wires. The green ground goes to the ground bar with all of the other green wires.

Romex or wires in conduit are fine. 6 AWG. The 40 foot run is short enough to have limited voltage drop.

 

[TydalForce]

Of note: Some of the grounds may not be green - they could be bare wire

 

[user212_nr]

Thanks to all for your input!!
Actually, clue me in on that. I’m used to hot/neutral/ground from lots of projects. In a 14-50 we have two hots. Which one goes where?

The hots are reversible, to the point where you cannot distinguish one from the other. They should have 120v to ground and 240 between each other.

 

[nayr14]

It's an unpopular opinion, but I'd recommend a 6-50 instead of a 14-50. 14-50 is great for RV's because they need 240v (hot-hot) and 120v (hot-neutral). An EV or any 240v appliance will not need a neutral. 14-50 is popular because many RV parks use them, great if you're in a bind.

I saved $40 and was able to install higher gauge wire by not running a neutral, reducing conduit fill. Just a both hots and a ground. Initially I installed a 6-50 outlet, and eventually picked up a used HPWC and connected that instead. I have a 60a breaker and the HPWC is set to 48a.

 

[CharleyBC]

It's an unpopular opinion, but I'd recommend a 6-50 instead of a 14-50. 14-50 is great for RV's because they need 240v (hot-hot) and 120v (hot-neutral). An EV or any 240v appliance will not need a neutral. 14-50 is popular because many RV parks use them, great if you're in a bind.

I saved $40 and was able to install higher gauge wire by not running a neutral, reducing conduit fill. Just a both hots and a ground. Initially I installed a 6-50 outlet, and eventually picked up a used HPWC and connected that instead. I have a 60a breaker and the HPWC is set to 48a.

Interesting. I hadn’t considered a 6-50, just because I’ve been using a 14-50 up to now. I’d have to buy the 6-50 adapter ($35, I think), but that could be balanced by less wire expense and an easier run, as you said.

I also like your idea of wiring for a possible future upgrade to an HPWC. What gauge wire for a 60A breaker?

 

[Kirby64]

Interesting. I hadn’t considered a 6-50, just because I’ve been using a 14-50 up to now. I’d have to buy the 6-50 adapter ($35, I think), but that could be balanced by less wire expense and an easier run, as you said.

I also like your idea of wiring for a possible future upgrade to an HPWC. What gauge wire for a 60A breaker?

Follow this chart, copper 60C rated:
Ampacity Charts - Cerrowire

If you want to use wire rated for 60A in the future, you'd need 4ga copper. Honestly, 6ga already sucks to run as-is. If you're just making a short 2-3 foot run from the panel to your outlet, I'd just do 6ga and re-run it later if you ever do decide to upgrade to a HPWC. It shouldn't cost you much.

 

[adrianp89]

Follow this chart, copper 60C rated:
Ampacity Charts - Cerrowire

If you want to use wire rated for 60A in the future, you'd need 4ga copper. Honestly, 6ga already sucks to run as-is. If you're just making a short 2-3 foot run from the panel to your outlet, I'd just do 6ga and re-run it later if you ever do decide to upgrade to a HPWC. It shouldn't cost you much.

We ran 4 gauge across the garage and it wasn't bad at all. I have easy attic access that helped a lot though. To run a few feet, 4 gauge is nothing.