Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

New Member Looking for a Roadster

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
Hi All,

Just registered. I'm looking forward to getting a Roadster soon. I'm actually conversing with a dealership that has a 2008 with 53K miles. He says that the current range on it is about 220 miles on a full charge. I know I should get a PPI, but what are your thoughts on the condition of the battery.

I'm working a deal for a trade for my '78 Ferrari 308 that I've owned for the last 24 years. If anyone is interested in such a trade, please contact me.

Thanks in advance.

Henry
 
  • Like
Reactions: AtAge19
That sounds about right for the battery. My 2010 with 49k miles gets to about 214 miles on a full "Range" charge. My battery has a "CAC" of about 139.5

BTW, the Roadster never takes the battery to a full 100%, in order to not stress the battery. The full charge in Range mode takes it to about 94%. Standard mode (what you should use on a daily basis) charges to about 83%. In my car, that's about 164 miles.

What you might ask them to do is to pull the logs from the car, and look for any errors or alerts that might not have been presented or seen on the car's display. If they don't know how to do that, there are instructions elsewhere here on the forum. Look for "VMSParser.exe". All free, and no hacking of the car is needed.

Congrats in advance, and welcome to the forum!
 
  • Like
Reactions: AtAge19
I would question why a dealer has the car, that being said the trade in is so poor from Tesla I’m not surprised they are making their way to dealers. Most cars have a fairly decent documented history and can be found here. While it may be of little importance to you, a salvaged title will yield minimal to no help from Tesla so your reduced to 3rd party parts which may or may not be enough. Brakes and suspension is available with a considerable improvement for a lot less money. Some would say actually a necessity rather than an upgrade. Charging accessories are nice to have from the getup and are well documented, a Can Sr at the least gives you access to all tesla stations other than the superchargers, while the Jr gives you the rest. Same goes with 240v chargers, the UMC240 is not known for reliability, where as the Tesla s/x/3 is slightly lower amps and brings slightly better results, again you need your Can Sr for that.
210-220 on range is pretty good and should see you for many miles to come, at least that’s what we are all hoping for.
 
I would seek clarification on the '220 miles on a full charge'. What you need to know is the IDEAL range on either a standard, or range mode, charge.

In general, the best simple indication of battery health is to: a) set to standard mode and charge until it stops (but leave it plugged in), then b) get a picture of the ESS status screen in the car diagnostics, and c) get a picture of the ESS balancing screen in the car diagnostics. (If you don't know how to do that, PM and I'll let you know). Those screens, at a known state such as full charge in standard mode, will tell you a lot about the health of the battery.

If you post the VIN here, I am sure people here can help check the history for you as well.
 
this is one of the best threads i have found for looking at comparable cars, or deciding what was desirable to me and what was essential. This particular car has been where it is for about 7 months. However if it has everything you desire for a good price then thats the ultimate judgement. I think you have room on that price today but again its whats desirable for you.
Today's Roadster Orphan
 
Hi Guys,

Thanks for all the help. Here's a link to the car...

2008 Tesla Roadster | San Francisco Sports Cars

It has 53k miles and VIN is 5YJRE11B681000187

Any information would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Henry
Henry, these guys are somewhat reliable when it comes to selling Roadsters. The Roadster I bought was for sale at this location at one point (although I didn't end up buying it from them). Radiant red has always been the best color on Roadsters IMO. I live pretty close to these guys if you want to have someone go look at the car in person for you. PM me
 
Thanks for all the helpful information guys, and the warm welcome.

A couple questions...

- What is the "CAC" and what value should it be or is good?
- Can someone tell me how to pull the "logs" from the car? Do you think this would be sufficient information to determine the condition of the battery?
- What is CAN Sr & Jr? I heard that it is better for the battery to do a slow charge than a rapid charge, is that true?
- What's a range and standard charge?

Sorry for all the questions. I want to decide pretty soon, otherwise I'd do more searches on this forum.

BTW, here are some pix of my 308...

Copy of 041.jpg
Santa Paula Show.jpg
Sorry for all the questions. I want to decide pretty soon, otherwise I'd do more searches on this forum.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Canuck and Mark77a
The Roadster has a unique connector for charging with. Technically the charger is in the car and the part you plug into the wall is a connector but everyone will know what you mean by calling it a charger. Anyhow, the roadster was built before the industry standard J1772 connector, and also the Tesla connector found on the S/X/3. So some kind genus designed some adaptors to be able to use the J1772 and Tesla connectors. The J1772 is the CAN Jr and the Tesla being the CAN Sr. Both essential for travelling and charging from anywhere other than your own home. Many use the Tesla HPWC and a Tesla connector for daily use. There are benefits of Slow and faster charging. The slow charge will allow the cells to balance for a longer period of time, produce less heat and keep the pack stable. 110/120V however does not allow the car to utilize the HVAC to cool the pack down and nor does it need to because the the charge rate is fairly slow, all charging has some inherent losses so this is possibly less desirable for efficiency reasons. The sweet spot seems to be 32-40 A 220-240V allowing you HVAC, lower losses from cooling the pack and generally the most efficient cost/charge times.
The Roadster enjoys longer than expected pack life due to the fact the standard charge does not charge the pack fully, to take the pack to max usable capacity (around 95%) full you need to manually change the setting on the charge screen to 'RANGE' This will charge the pack to a higher capacity at the cost of reducing the pack life, over the course of the life of the pack this could be significant. The exception to this is using the initial 30 minutes of range charge to cool the pack as it automatically starts active cooling in this mode.
CAC is basically the best guess the car can make about the condition of the pack. The pack is only as good as the weakest brick. The data to brick level is found in the logs. The information for pulling the logs and using the program to read the logs are not for the faint hearted. There are some excellent threads already covering this.
Battery health: What is the ideal CAC ?
Help with vehicle logs
As mentioned if the company are not helpful maybe look elsewhere, there are some forum members here who IMO have outstanding cars at the same price point.
There a lot of informationI have glanced over but to point you in the right direction and for some dirty numbers, ideal range charge for most of us is around 210-230 and standard 170-180km for a healthy pack. Again this is a guess made by the car so number can and do move. Use ideal not the other number as some spirited driving can throw the numbers off wildly. generally 120V charging will also show a higher end charge of around 5-10% so be wary of very high numbers. Ask as many questions from the dealer and on the forum because many people have different view points and experiences that can give you information into as much detail as you are able to understand, however that sometimes confuses the issue also. Best of luck with the search and purchase.
 
The Roadster has a unique connector for charging with. Technically the charger is in the car and the part you plug into the wall is a connector but everyone will know what you mean by calling it a charger. Anyhow, the roadster was built before the industry standard J1772 connector, and also the Tesla connector found on the S/X/3. So some kind genus designed some adaptors to be able to use the J1772 and Tesla connectors. The J1772 is the CAN Jr and the Tesla being the CAN Sr. Both essential for travelling and charging from anywhere other than your own home. Many use the Tesla HPWC and a Tesla connector for daily use. There are benefits of Slow and faster charging. The slow charge will allow the cells to balance for a longer period of time, produce less heat and keep the pack stable. 110/120V however does not allow the car to utilize the HVAC to cool the pack down and nor does it need to because the the charge rate is fairly slow, all charging has some inherent losses so this is possibly less desirable for efficiency reasons. The sweet spot seems to be 32-40 A 220-240V allowing you HVAC, lower losses from cooling the pack and generally the most efficient cost/charge times.
The Roadster enjoys longer than expected pack life due to the fact the standard charge does not charge the pack fully, to take the pack to max usable capacity (around 95%) full you need to manually change the setting on the charge screen to 'RANGE' This will charge the pack to a higher capacity at the cost of reducing the pack life, over the course of the life of the pack this could be significant. The exception to this is using the initial 30 minutes of range charge to cool the pack as it automatically starts active cooling in this mode.
CAC is basically the best guess the car can make about the condition of the pack. The pack is only as good as the weakest brick. The data to brick level is found in the logs. The information for pulling the logs and using the program to read the logs are not for the faint hearted. There are some excellent threads already covering this.
Battery health: What is the ideal CAC ?
Help with vehicle logs
As mentioned if the company are not helpful maybe look elsewhere, there are some forum members here who IMO have outstanding cars at the same price point.
There a lot of informationI have glanced over but to point you in the right direction and for some dirty numbers, ideal range charge for most of us is around 210-230 and standard 170-180km for a healthy pack. Again this is a guess made by the car so number can and do move. Use ideal not the other number as some spirited driving can throw the numbers off wildly. generally 120V charging will also show a higher end charge of around 5-10% so be wary of very high numbers. Ask as many questions from the dealer and on the forum because many people have different view points and experiences that can give you information into as much detail as you are able to understand, however that sometimes confuses the issue also. Best of luck with the search and purchase.
Wow! Thanks for taking the time to write this response.

View attachment 360644

Beautiful car !! and interesting result (well on this forum :cool: )
Pity you cant keep both
Thanks for the compliment. Unfortunately, the electric 308 was not mine. The electric 308 was made by a company down in San Diego named EV West. The build was chronicled on a site called Ferrarichat. My 308 did get spanked, but I was still proud of it none the less. The electric 308 had way more power, later model Ferrari brakes, stickier rubber, etc.

Man, your 308 is so beautiful...one of my favorite cars of all time. I sure wish I could trade you for it.
Thanks DW. I know I'm going to miss the 308, but time for something more modern.