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New model y range issues
- Thread starter Reisinger
- Start date
I drive to San Diego often (105 miles one way). I charge to 90% (296 miles) before my departure which would be plenty for a round trip, but driving at 75-80 mph I arrive with 45-50% remaining, and the nav is indicating I'll be down to ~10% on my return. That's a little bit out of my comfort zone so I'll usually stop to supercharge additional 10-20% which takes 5-10 minutes.
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That would’ve been a fine explanation, except i never got more that 280 miles shown on MYLR.
Perhaps different EPA estimated my 4 yo e-golf at 125 range, and i drove 140 miles multiple times, same weather, same driving style, same no AC when i compare. Degradation is 6% in 4 years too. Costed me 12k + tax new, lol.
ID4 same story, real range is aligned with EPA expectations.
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thats likely because those companies choose to voluntarily report less than the tests show, and no company is under any obligation to do that.
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energy use is energy use. seat heaters aren’t “free” in ICE cars. They require even more energy since there are efficiency losses in converting energy from combustion to electricity. Heat from the heater, yes, as it is a waste product of burning gas. But this little stuff isn’t what we’re talking about.
If the temps are 65f vehicles with same aerodynamics, tires etc, doing 70 or 80 or 90 mph are going to use about the same amount of energy, basically, regardless of whether they are EV or ICE. There isn’t some voodoo that’s going to let an ICE car be hugely more efficient. Despite various protestations from sample sizes of one about some sort of miracle on the road. The OP's issues are bound up in the usual early days of learning to understand iRL range vs what the screen shows. We’ve all been there.
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I have this same experience and it's because you're driving at 75-80mph. I have a commute several times a month that's 150 miles round trip. The speed limit is 70mph for 80% of the trip and I notice when I drive 70-85mph the battery drains. But, when I drive below 65mph it does not drain.
It's all about how hard the car is pushing to drive faster. The faster the drain on the battery to drive faster, the quicker it will drain. When I commute local I don't have any issues. Example: On normal days my drive from home to work is 30 miles (15 miles each way). When I get home the Tesla would have used 40 miles. 5-6% for Sentry, 1-3% for maintaining the car while parked. 1-3% due to cold weather. But, I notice high speeds decrease mileage.
I have three friends who've owned Teslas for four years. They all tell me 65mph and under is the sweet spot to maintain mileage.
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There’s a reason all the Prius’ and Leafs were driving slowing. That’s where they are most efficient, and deliver at or more than their rated range. Tesla is no different.
Its funny how all these yahoo truck-driving and autobahn wanna-be‘s are buying Tesla and get disappointed about range.
News flash…. Its an electric car. You gotta run with the little dogs now and line up behind the Prius and Leaf, if you want the rated range. Tesla isnt magic. Physics rule. It’s a big Nissan Leaf.
You can have speed or you can have efficiency, but you can’t have both with an electric car.
The typical Person has no realization of the immense energy density in a gallon of gas, and how that energy has been carelessly wasted in our vehicles and the way we drive. That high energy density is also why a gas car can drive fast and still be ”efficient”
Electricity has very little energy density.
1 gallon of gas = 33.7 kW of electricity.
So let’s put that into perspective. Your new model Y carries about 2.3 gallons of gas!
If your F150 or your glorious bimmer had about 3 Gallons of gas in the tank, you’d have slowed down years ago.
The beauty of electric is what it CAN do, with so little energy, if you slow down and wise up.
There‘s also a reason Prius and Leaf have little small tires with low rolling resistance…..That plays into the range equation also. If you opted for the big wheels and high performance tires, you’re gonna lose range. Again physics. Drag is the enemy of efficiency. Wheather It’s aerodynamic drag (speed) or friction drag (tires, rain, snow, etc.)
Its funny how all these yahoo truck-driving and autobahn wanna-be‘s are buying Tesla and get disappointed about range.
News flash…. Its an electric car. You gotta run with the little dogs now and line up behind the Prius and Leaf, if you want the rated range. Tesla isnt magic. Physics rule. It’s a big Nissan Leaf.
You can have speed or you can have efficiency, but you can’t have both with an electric car.
The typical Person has no realization of the immense energy density in a gallon of gas, and how that energy has been carelessly wasted in our vehicles and the way we drive. That high energy density is also why a gas car can drive fast and still be ”efficient”
Electricity has very little energy density.
1 gallon of gas = 33.7 kW of electricity.
So let’s put that into perspective. Your new model Y carries about 2.3 gallons of gas!
If your F150 or your glorious bimmer had about 3 Gallons of gas in the tank, you’d have slowed down years ago.
The beauty of electric is what it CAN do, with so little energy, if you slow down and wise up.
There‘s also a reason Prius and Leaf have little small tires with low rolling resistance…..That plays into the range equation also. If you opted for the big wheels and high performance tires, you’re gonna lose range. Again physics. Drag is the enemy of efficiency. Wheather It’s aerodynamic drag (speed) or friction drag (tires, rain, snow, etc.)
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I believe the voodoo of which you speak is called a CVT transmission and a highly efficient 4-cylinder engine.
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The definition of Toyota Prius
kindofblue
Member
HI all,
You may also be aware that Tesla's EPA range claims are self-reported and overestimate actual range because of the way they self-test their vehicles. See this for details: Edmund's report
You may also be aware that Tesla's EPA range claims are self-reported and overestimate actual range because of the way they self-test their vehicles. See this for details: Edmund's report
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I dont really know how EPA estimates, but i assume they charge a car and drive it. What’s there to report or not to report?
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The irony is that Tesla is choosing to use the full 5-cycle testing that ICEVs use because it gives them better results than the fudged 2-cycle test results. The 5-cycle testing was introduced in 2008 to improve reported fuel economy.
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thesmokingman
Active Member
Nope. They don't even run the test. EPA figures only mean something when you drive at the same speed as the test was run at. PPL expect to get EPA at any speed so there's like this serious disconnect going on. This false expectation leads to a lot of BS figures from makers.
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Please be more specific. 50% battery on 90 miles is about what I saw in my Model 3 driving 85 mph against wind at 20F. Considering sub-freezing temperatures in Florida unlikely, I would agree that something is wrong IF it is really 50% of the entire battery on 90 miles of driving. Could you please report your average energy usage for that trip and you overall average energy use (Wh/mi)?
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damonbrodie
Member
I really wish Tesla would take the rated range out of the UI entirely. It should only be used for promotional purposes (on the website) so that buyers can use it as a sort of apples to apples comparison with other vehicles.
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The EPA test cycles are more than "charge and drive it". For example, for range tests, the car is ran until it stops, not until it indicates 0 battery range on display. For efficiency tests, the EPA measures the amount of energy required to recharge the car after driving, so such efficiency will include energy loses due to charging. The manufactures can use one of several EPA approaches to testing to report the range and efficiency. Some people try to spin this as if Tesla is doing something inappropriate (also called FUD).
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I can achieve and exceed the rated range under certain conditions. When driving, and when weather is good, I refer to the rated range as something I know achievable if I need to squeeze more from the car. It is a good reference point for me, not a marketing trick.
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damonbrodie
Member
If you want to go further then flip on the "enegy" panel and make your changes to your driving against that. Make your adjustments against the "instant" or "average" WH/mile (or per KM). That display gives you the estimated range remaining in the battery and won't you get the same satisfaction out of making that number go as high as possible?
The reason I advocate for removing the EPA range from the UI is because people see the number when they get in and think they can actually travel that distance. It comes up over and over on the forums "I have a defective battery - I can't go 525Km like the display says"
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