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Hi all

I am a brand new Tesla Model 3 owner (literally paid the down payment today). I have never owned an EV before and I'm seeking advice on the best most cost effective charging solution I should go with. The product specialist at the dealership didn't recommend the Wall Unit (for $500 + $1000 installation) due to the cost. My question is what do people usually do? I don't think I have a 240v outlet in my garage -- Should I get an estimate to have one fitted? What did everyone else do?

Thanks in advance

Jason
 
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Hi all

I am a brand new Tesla Model 3 owner (literally paid the down payment today). I have never owned an EV before and I'm seeking advice on the best most cost effective charging solution I should go with. The product specialist at the dealership didn't recommend the Wall Unit (for $500 + $1000 installation) due to the cost. My question is what do people usually do? I don't think I have a 240v outlet in my garage -- Should I get an estimate to have one fitted? What did everyone else do?

Thanks in advance

Jason
I installed a Tesla Wall Connector myself. It's not hard, but you do need to do the research to make sure you follow all codes that are applicable to your area and situation. Depending on where you live you might need to get it inspected afterwards so the previous statement has even more weight to it.

Depending on how many miles per day you drive, on average, will determine what is the best solution for you. If you drive locally only and not a lot of miles, a standard 110v outlet will be fine.

How many miles do you drive, on average, every day? What's your commute to work look like?
 
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Reactions: brkaus
I had a NEMA 14-50 installed in my garage and plug my MCU in it. Cheaper than having a Tesla Wall unit installed (unless you're capable of doing that yourself).
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I agree with @UKNOWINVU2, although I use the HPWC, it will be more $$$ to install and you still have to buy it for $500. Wire the plug for 60 Amps and then if you want to switch later to the wall charger you will be ready.

The charger that comes with the car is more than sufficient. One note, for little to no difference in cost you can run a NEMA 14-50 or 6-50R designed for RV charging (and that adapter is nearly always in stock at Tesla) both will support 32 amp charging at 30 miles per hour with the M3.
 
Installed a NEMA 14-50 myself. The exterior box, an EATON with outlet, cost $18 at HD or Lowes. Samsung double-pole breaker, 8ft of 6 gauge wire, conduit. Altogether, under $80. Get an electrician friend look it over, and it's pretty cheap. The wire is the most expensive component, sold by the foot.

If you get an electrician, don't tell him it's for a Tesla!
 
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However you proceed, remember that you can claim 30% of the installation cost and charging hardware against taxes now. Lessens the load and it’s awesome to charge at home.

No more pumping gas in the freezing rain is also a wonderful thing!
 
First off, welcome to Tesla, TMC and EV ownership! You will really love the convenience of plugging in at home. The most cost effective solution would be to go with the NEMA 14-50 outlet as mentioned and use your mobile charging kit that comes with your car. There are a few other EVs that can use a NEMA 14-50 as well if your family adds a non-Tesla EV. The NEMA 14-50 can optionally be used for some heavy duty power tools or to plug in an RV. You'll want to keep a J-1772 adapter in your car (glove compartment is a good location) to use on the road if you need to charge at a Level 2 charger like a ChargePoint or EVGo.

I suppose really the most cost effective solution if you don't drive far each day and can use Superchargers for long distance trips and if you have a regular 120v outlet in your garage would be to use the NEMA 5-15 adapter for that outlet. You would be limited to very slow charging from home however. For a number of people on here it does work for them.


In a different take to charging with a NEMA 14-50, there's using the Corded NEMA 14-50 Mobile Connector instead of your car's mobile charging kit. This is what we did. It is more or less permanently plugged into our garage and we keep our car's mobile charging kit with the car (will say we haven't needed it in our travels so far).

The advantages to the Corded solution are:
1) fewer connection points (no adapter needed in between the equipment and the outlet);
2) both our Model S and Model 3 AWD vehicles can take advantage of the higher charge rate it provides (11.5 kW max--48A as opposed to the Gen 2 NEMA 14-50 Adapter with mobile charging kit's 7.6 kW max--32A). Only Model S, Model X and Model 3's AWD models (and future Cybertruck) can take full advantage of the 11.5 kW. If down the road you end up with one of those as a second vehicle you get that added faster charging benefit along with some versatility of the outlet type.

The cost of the Corded Mobile Connector is about the same price as the Wall Connector, $520 compared to $500. It has a 20' cable. The Wall Connector also can charge up to 11.5 kW (48A) and it has an 18' cable.
 
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I installed a Tesla Wall Connector myself. It's not hard, but you do need to do the research to make sure you follow all codes that are applicable to your area and situation. Depending on where you live you might need to get it inspected afterwards so the previous statement has even more weight to it.

Depending on how many miles per day you drive, on average, will determine what is the best solution for you. If you drive locally only and not a lot of miles, a standard 110v outlet will be fine.

How many miles do you drive, on average, every day? What's your commute to work look like?


Thanks -- my commute is small -- however I travel with work a lot and would end up leaving my car at the airport for 2-4 days at a time. my daily drive is less than 30 miles and the airport is about 20 miles. We do do longer trips once in a while
 
First off, welcome to Tesla, TMC and EV ownership! You will really love the convenience of plugging in at home. The most cost effective solution would be to go with the NEMA 14-50 outlet as mentioned and use your mobile charging kit that comes with your car. There are a few other EVs that can use a NEMA 14-50 as well if your family adds a non-Tesla EV. The NEMA 14-50 can optionally be used for some heavy duty power tools or to plug in an RV. You'll want to keep a J-1772 adapter in your car (glove compartment is a good location) to use on the road if you need to charge at a Level 2 charger like a ChargePoint or EVGo.

I suppose really the most cost effective solution if you don't drive far each day and can use Superchargers for long distance trips and if you have a regular 120v outlet in your garage would be to use the NEMA 5-15 adapter for that outlet. You would be limited to very slow charging from home however. For a number of people on here it does work for them.


In a different take to charging with a NEMA 14-50, there's using the Corded NEMA 14-50 Mobile Connector instead of your car's mobile charging kit. This is what we did. It is more or less permanently plugged into our garage and we keep our car's mobile charging kit with the car (will say we haven't needed it in our travels so far).

The advantages to the Corded solution are:
1) fewer connection points (no adapter needed in between the equipment and the outlet);
2) both our Model S and Model 3 AWD vehicles can take advantage of the higher charge rate it provides (11.5 kW max--48A as opposed to the Gen 2 NEMA 14-50 Adapter with mobile charging kit's 7.6 kW max--32A). Only Model S, Model X and Model 3's AWD models (and future Cybertruck) can take full advantage of the 11.5 kW. If down the road you end up with one of those as a second vehicle you get that added faster charging benefit along with some versatility of the outlet type.

The cost of the Corded Mobile Connector is about the same price as the Wall Connector, $520 compared to $500. It has a 20' cable. The Wall Connector also can charge up to 11.5 kW (48A) and it has an 18' cable.


I like the idea you have here -- one big problem seems to be everything is out of stock at the Tesla store (not sure how a new owner is supposed to deal with that lol)
 
If you don't know how to pull a electrical permit and pass an inspection DON"T do it yourself. You are dealing with a lot of energy. I have seen a HPWC fried because one (or more) terminals were not securely tightened. If a fire starts from a non-permitted non-inspected installation your insurance company could reject your claim. When you sell the house in many states you will have to sign a disclosure statement that all work was permitted and inspected. A bank may not loan on a house with non approved wiring. If you lie, you are liable in perpetuity. There is a switch box that you plug into the dryer outlet and then plug the dryer and charger cable into the box. It will let only supply power to 1 device at a time. And you don't want an extension cord!
 
If you don't know how to pull a electrical permit and pass an inspection DON"T do it yourself. You are dealing with a lot of energy. I have seen a HPWC fried because one (or more) terminals were not securely tightened. If a fire starts from a non-permitted non-inspected installation your insurance company could reject your claim. When you sell the house in many states you will have to sign a disclosure statement that all work was permitted and inspected. A bank may not loan on a house with non approved wiring. If you lie, you are liable in perpetuity. There is a switch box that you plug into the dryer outlet and then plug the dryer and charger cable into the box. It will let only supply power to 1 device at a time. And you don't want an extension cord!
If you don't know how to pull a electrical permit and pass an inspection DON"T do it yourself. You are dealing with a lot of energy. I have seen a HPWC fried because one (or more) terminals were not securely tightened. If a fire starts from a non-permitted non-inspected installation your insurance company could reject your claim. When you sell the house in many states you will have to sign a disclosure statement that all work was permitted and inspected. A bank may not loan on a house with non approved wiring. If you lie, you are liable in perpetuity. There is a switch box that you plug into the dryer outlet and then plug the dryer and charger cable into the box. It will let only supply power to 1 device at a time. And you don't want an extension cord!

Thanks - I would definitely get a licensed electrician to do this (I am not an electrician) -- you also mentioned that I couldn't run the dryer and charge the car at the same time -- that could be an issue.....