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New Roadster owner
- Thread starter jason.tv
- Start date
Rojer Lockless
Member
Bunnak
Member
absolutely pristine! and the looks on those folks faces!
Appreciate it! Just took some leather cleaner and cleaned up all the dirt on the doors and leather; Will finish with the leather conditioner tomorrow.
ok few questions.
1. My brake pads needs changing; they seem to be the original ones from 2011 which are rusting and and all dried out orange color around the edges and causing break dust like you wouldn't believe. will go with the carbotech 1521 for less brake dust and noise but who can I take the car to in order to change them? I've read the tesla sc does not install aftermarket.
2. I want to tackle the headlights HID installation and or customization but the Headlight guy is worried to Jack up the car; Can I jack up one side or front end of the car up by both wheels at the same time? and can I jack up the car doing the same with the rear? or does the car need to be jacked up on a four point lift?
3. I noticed as soon as I took delivery of the car the car is making a clunk noise from behind the car when hitting and release the accelerator; even if I go less than 5mph; I asked a member here and he said it's normal as the cars inverter is kicking in and being released back to the motor when pushed again. but I test it pushing and releasing pushing and releasing over and over and I get "Clunk" "Clunk" "Clunk" "Clunk" I just read this here and now has me worried. Clunk noise from behind when accelerating/deaccelerating
2011 sport 2.5 13,890 miles
1. My brake pads needs changing; they seem to be the original ones from 2011 which are rusting and and all dried out orange color around the edges and causing break dust like you wouldn't believe. will go with the carbotech 1521 for less brake dust and noise but who can I take the car to in order to change them? I've read the tesla sc does not install aftermarket.
2. I want to tackle the headlights HID installation and or customization but the Headlight guy is worried to Jack up the car; Can I jack up one side or front end of the car up by both wheels at the same time? and can I jack up the car doing the same with the rear? or does the car need to be jacked up on a four point lift?
3. I noticed as soon as I took delivery of the car the car is making a clunk noise from behind the car when hitting and release the accelerator; even if I go less than 5mph; I asked a member here and he said it's normal as the cars inverter is kicking in and being released back to the motor when pushed again. but I test it pushing and releasing pushing and releasing over and over and I get "Clunk" "Clunk" "Clunk" "Clunk" I just read this here and now has me worried. Clunk noise from behind when accelerating/deaccelerating
2011 sport 2.5 13,890 miles
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Check to see if your rear brake pads are loose, if they are worn they are also rattling around noticeable when you brake/accelerate. So wait for that to be done first. There is a marked jacking point on the under side, I use something soft on the jack pad like a piece of wood or a hockey puck. The front lights take less than 15 minutes and can be done with the wheel on and without jacking the car up, but the emerald question is why would you. The brake pads can be changed by any competent mechanic and probably a few incompetent ones also. There’s no trick. A pin, 2 pins, push the piston back. Coat the rear of the pads, wait 10 minutes and reassemble. Make sure the pads are stuck to the backings, the clips tight and you give them a good clean while it’s apart.
There might be jacking point stickers on the frame (2 of my 4 are about to fall off). The manual will show where they are too.
The rear jack point, just in front of the removable mid-section panel will raise both wheels on that side 9f the car.
The front jack point is difficult to use unless you drive the car into a 2x6 to get more clearance or have a really low profile jack
You might want to consider upgrading the rotors, too. The custom ones that @titaniumdave makes are much better than the stock, especially since they are much more resistant to rust. The stock ones will rust within a few milliseconds of even the threat of moisture, and it takes a number of heartbeats for the rust to get scraped off when you first need to stop. Then they will begin to slow the car, the usefulness of which depends on whether your heart is still beating.
See Now Shipping: Custom Tesla Roadster 2-Piece Slotted Rotors
See Now Shipping: Custom Tesla Roadster 2-Piece Slotted Rotors
yes!
i should disclose my selfishness in 2nding this recco . . . i've been waiting for the minimum # of orders to accumulate since i bought my Roadster last October for @titaniumdave to do another run of the rotors!
You turn the wheels hard lock, it’s just a few bolts and they can be done by feel pretty much with a flex head ratchet spanner.
I’ve had a set of these since my early days at Porsche, pretty much a minimum requirement in that environment. Once the cover is off the rear access is pretty standard. The hardest part is finding a screwdriver of the right length to slightly loosen the 3 bulb holder screws. My bulbs were uncomfortably tight in the housing. The new ones went it with them tightened, I think the DDM bulbs were the issue there though.
Bunnak
Member
Does that include new brakes too? If not what brand/company are you using for brakes nowadays?yes!
i should disclose my selfishness in 2nding this recco . . . i've been waiting for the minimum # of orders to accumulate since i bought my Roadster last October for @titaniumdave to do another run of the rotors!
I assume by brakes you mean the calipers . . . this is just the rotors and I'm all stock for all brake system components.
I've seen folks post about using 4-pot AP Racing calipers.
That said, I believe people found just the rotors to be a significant upgrade.
Carl told me to remove the belly cover of the vehicle to see if I can fasten the bolt that connects the transmission and the bolt is completely fastened so that's not where the clicking or clunk noise is coming from.
While I was down under I went through 2 paper towel rolls cleaning all the dust and dirt off of all the parts and components; If no one has done this I highly advise doing this as everything was SO DIRTY!!!!! I don't understand how people can drive or let alone charge the car with all the dust and dirt that can suck into the fans into the PEM.
This was almost like the same thing as taking your computer and taking a blower to remove all the dust; you know that satisfactory feeling after it's complete? Multiply that 5x. I now feel more confident and comfortable knowing what I have underneath my vehicle which is now completely cleaned.. The Suspension you couldn't even see the Dial numbers; they were completely covered..
While I was down under I went through 2 paper towel rolls cleaning all the dust and dirt off of all the parts and components; If no one has done this I highly advise doing this as everything was SO DIRTY!!!!! I don't understand how people can drive or let alone charge the car with all the dust and dirt that can suck into the fans into the PEM.
This was almost like the same thing as taking your computer and taking a blower to remove all the dust; you know that satisfactory feeling after it's complete? Multiply that 5x. I now feel more confident and comfortable knowing what I have underneath my vehicle which is now completely cleaned.. The Suspension you couldn't even see the Dial numbers; they were completely covered..
i'm doing a DIY Sound Reduction and this pic of the mid-belly cover is great to see where the factory decided to put the sound dampening!
not sure what's happening with the circular pieces on the sides . . . maybe just to provide some clearance between the belly cover & the side rails where it contacts?
i'm doing a DIY Sound Reduction and this pic of the mid-belly cover is great to see where the factory decided to put the sound dampening!
not sure what's happening with the circular pieces on the sides . . . maybe just to provide some clearance between the belly cover & the side rails where it contacts?
I was cleaning them and read what they were but now forgot lol; I think they were wheel or rear access panels for something because it's accessible / removable with one screw without removing the entire panel; looks to me it's for rain drainage in case water gets into the belly.
Didn't use any product; just wiped down any spots with dry paper towel and threw away one by one; the spots with tons of dirt and or dust I used tiny bit of water from a bottle but enough just to dampen the towel a tiny bit just to remove the dirt in case I hit or touched any electrical wiring, But everything seemed pretty safe.
I would rather do this then send my car in for the yearly service PEM cleaning; seems to me that is a waste to send it in rather than the process I just did. I am damn sure Tesla service center is not going to spend couple days wiping down all the components under the belly for you.
Furthermore I've seen from Gruber videos the PEM is really really clean to begin with since the seal is excellent on the PEM they say, so they probably open it up and already know the PEM is in good order; then they close it back up and unhook couple connectors make sure they are clean and plug them back in and charge you $650 for the annual cleaning. I've read unhooking and connecting the connectors every time is what wears out the tips and connections; enough times you will need replacing.
Furthermore again lol, with the new employees and service center crew technicians you really want them in your PEM? Taking a meter to make sure all your cells are reading correctly? And if they are not you want them to break the bad news to you? no thanks.
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