Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

"New" Sources of Tesla 'OEM,' Tesla-like, and/or Third-Party CCS1 Adapters

Due to information/product vacuums caused when Tesla allegedly stepped in and prevented further sales of Korean CCS1 adapters to North America (e.g., by helpful businesses like Harumio), several new potential sources of adapters originated in 2022.

September 21, 2022 Update: Tesla North America has (finally) released the CCS1 adapter to its Canadian and U.S. customers. The adapter is available to all (four) Tesla models, provided cars are CCS-enabled. Hardware/software retrofits are coming in 2023 for cars currently without CCS capability.


"New" (in 2022) Sources of CCS1 Adapters
(Grouped by type.)
Source​
Price​
Specific Notes​
Availability
(in NA)​
Genuine Tesla Adapter
$250(US)
$325(CAN)
$340(CAN)​
  • Available on the Canada and U.S. Tesla websites.
  • Owner's manual here.
  • For Models S, X, 3, and Y.
  • Car must be CCS-enabled.
  • Factory-approved retrofits (including parts and labor) for non-enabled cars is coming (in 2023).
  • For those who prefer not to wait, successful DIY (do-it-yourself) procedures to enable CCS charging in recent (e.g., certain 2021 cars) and in older vehicles (particularly Models 3 & Y) may be possible. See numerous postings, starting with this Thread.
AVAILABLE.
Tesla-Adapter Copies
$325
$294
$319
$250
$235
$246
$251
$239
$216
$230

$203*​
  • Hansshow/Hautopart adapter may also be found on TesPlus website (for $200).​
  • See website for technical specifications.​
  • Stated to be for Models S, X, 3, & Y (car must be CCS-enabled).​
AVAILABLE.
$250
$200
$170

$185​
  • See website for technical specifications.
  • Claimed to be compatible with "all Tesla models."
  • Car must be CCS-enabled.
  • Graphic imagery suggests that this may be a different product than the Hansshow/Hautopart adapter.
AVAILABLE.
Independently-designed Aftermarket Adapters
$293
$270
$227

$195*​
  • Brand name: "Thunderstorm Plug."
  • Sold by registered TMC vendor (information available via @A2ZEVSHOP)
  • See website for technical specifications.
  • Design and engineering input originated from this North American company with business ties to:
    • Manufacturer Huizhou Olink Technology Co., Ltd. (China)
  • Works with applicable Models S, Ǝ, X, and Y, but:
    • Car must be CCS-enabled.
  • Note #1: Website CCS1 price may vary slightly, probably due to fluctuating Canada-to-U.S.-dollar rates.
    Note #2: Other CCS1-related accessories (e.g., lock, case, ECU) are also available from A2Z Shop.
AVAILABLE.
In Development
-na-​
  • See website for more information.
  • In size and general shape, reminiscent of the original SETEC CCS1 adapter (see below).
  • Possible release in 2023?
Currently
Unavailable.​
* Includes shipping to North America.

Existing 2022 and Planned Adapters

Note: Adapter images are not to the same scale.​

Comments:
  • USE FOR AC J1772-PLUG CHARGING? - Unfortunately, (some/all) J1772 plugs can be inserted into the upper circular socket of CCS1 adapters. This perpetuated the misconception (among some) that CCS1 adapters could be used to accept J1772 plug-outfitted charging cables. Untrue. CCS1 adapters are exclusively for DC charging. In contrast, J1772 plugs are used for AC Levl 2 charging. I surmise that none of the CCS1 adapters listed in this post are usable with any J1772 AC cable-plug device. No CCS1 adapter is necessary for AC charging (from 240v wall outlets and at Level 2 charging stations). TMC members have convincingly demonstrated (via photographs) that Tesla and aftermarket CCS1 adapters seen so far lack certain key electrical connectors necessary for AC J1772 charging (see here). For a North American Tesla, you can use charging equipment with J1772 plugs only with a proper J1772 adapter.

    Don't be misled--CCS1 adapters are NOT necessary for AC charging.



  • CHARGING LOCKS - Adapters designed for use in North American Tesla cars routinely come with a locking notch (at the bottom of the Tesla proprietary [TPC] plug that inserts into the charging port) that will prevent most unintended adapter-removal (i.e., theft) from the port during a charging session. Some manufacturers/suppliers are also addressing the second undesirable issue of having a CCS1 cable-plug/handle prematurely removed from the other end of the adapter during charging. See individual supplier webpages about any features designed to prevent undesired cable removal.

  • INTERNAL DESIGN - Most third-party CCS1 adapters appear to have a relatively simple straight "pass-through" circuitry design (with no or minimal amounts of solid-state circuitry components), as does the OEM Tesla adapter (I believe). The original SETEC adapter--with its battery-powered, CHAdeMO-mimicing software/hardware and 50kW charge rate maximum--is the notable exception.

  • CCS COMPATIBILITY - CCS1 adapters that lack on-board control circuitry (i.e., most/all adapters other than the original SETEC device) require that the car be "CCS-enabled." (In other words, some kind of CCS-allowing control electronics must be present inside either the adapter or the car.) In general, most Teslas from early 2020 to June 2021, and from November 2021 to present are so enabled; but check your car's CCS status before purchasing an adapter.
    • To check CCS status:
      • Center Touchscreen Display.
      • "Software" screen.
      • Choose "Additional Vehicle Information" link.
      • Examine "CCS adapter support" status. Status should appear as either "Enabled" or "Not installed."
    • If "Not installed" (CCS incompatible), there may be DIY (do it yourself) workarounds, or you can wait for Tesla to sell service retrofits (as was done in Europe for CCS2 adapters there).
      ...
  • ADVERTISED CHARGING RATES - For several reasons I am no longer reporting charging rate specifications; in part because the new (2022) adapters all claim a maximum charging rate of at least 150kW, up to 250kW (as does the Tesla OEM adapter).

    TMC Forum posts report widely varying charging rates for seemingly all CCS1 adapters (both Tesla and third-party). The reason is apparently that many conditions and factors--e.g., car model, age, and condition; the battery's initial charge level and temperature at the start of a charging session; and additional factors--may affect maximum and ongoing charging rates. Clearly the design and condition/health of the particular charging station being used makes a difference (with variation even seen among charging stations of the same company and at particular stations on different days). Also important: exactly when a reading is taken during a charging session. Charging rates rise and fall naturally over the course of a full session (here is one example). When a car starts with a relatively low battery level (say at 20% capacity), a moderately-high start, followed by an aggressive ramp-up, and then a gradual decline to completion is not unusual.

    Taking all this into account, a single charging rate index number may not be a particularly helpful (or honest) decision-making factor. Better, perhaps, would be a series of comparative charge-session graphs with conditions held relatively constant (e.g., 20%-to-80% charge sessions, batteries preconditioned to best operating temperatures, moderate ambient temperatures, use of the same charging station, etc.). Clearly we need someone like Tom Moloughney (YouTube "State of Charge" Channel) to objectively test, side-by-side, all the CCS1 adapter alternatives. In addition to comparative charge rates, I would also be interested in internal design, and build quality. (But I certainly do not want to dissect* my own, or indeed any, precious CCS1 adapter to investigate.)

    It is still early days, but one (still untested, afaik) hypothesis is that adapters with straight "pass-through" circuitry designs (including the Tesla OEM device) will all perform in generally similar fashion given the same conditions. If that proves true, the choice of product then comes down to factors other than maximum rate of charge; such as build-quality, safety features, cost, size and weight, availability, brand loyalty, purchase convenience, customer service, and so forth. I haven't looked inside an adapter, but I imagine that the size/bulk, design, and metallurgical content of electrical contacts and conductors will prove to be important (e.g., for resistance and hence energy loss through heat). This is DC high-voltage fast-charging, so you want beefy components here, people. Consider the analogy of purchase of a NEMA 14-50 wall receptacle from among several brands with different prices and/or construction/designs. They all work, but...

  • CAVEATS - Information (e.g., prices, descriptions) on some sites can change frequently and unexpectedly. Some initial products--and even one website--are no more. Again, be cautious. After a long wait, adapters are finally available from Tesla in North America. Therefore, many might now argue that the genuine CCS1 adapter (and factory hardware retrofits needed for some cars) from Tesla in North America are the safest course. But will Tesla supplies be consistently adequate to meet demand? We'll see. (As of 11/21/22, Tesla's ongoing stock of CCS1 adapters apparently continues to be satisfactory.)

  • CURRENCY - Prices listed here are in US dollars.

  • CAUTION - Please note the alert (in red) at the bottom of this post.
_____
* @wk057 has a bench-top dissection of a CHAdeMO adapter here, showing all the control circuitry necessary (hence the CHAdeMO adapter's larger size, by the way).


Prior Sources of CCS1 Adapters
(In order of release?)

Source​
Price​
Specific Notes​
Adapter Type​
Availability
(in NA)​
$525​
  • Car must be "CCS-enabled."
  • Availability curtailed by Russia-Ukraine war.
  • First available for sale in 2020.
"Aftermarket"
Straight "pass-
through" circuitry.​
Currently unavailable.​
$640
  • Unlike other adapters here, charges at a 50kW maximum rate.
  • Requires onboard battery.
  • Runs off firmware that may require frequent updates.
  • Not always compatible with Tesla vehicle updates.
  • Can be used in any model; car need not be CCS-enabled.
  • First available (in North America) in late 2020.
"Aftermarket"
Hardware/software
used to mimic
CHAdeMO technology.​
AVAILABLE.
~$239 (US)​
  • See website (and use Google translate if necessary) for technical specifications.
  • Translation of owner's manual here.
  • Car must be "CCS enabled."
  • Ostensibly for Models 3/Y only (in actuality works with all CCS-enabled models).
  • Includes locking pin to help discourage unintended CCS1 cable-plug detachment.
  • Made for Tesla-Korea by Pegatron of Taiwan.
  • First available (in Korea) in 2021.
  • For a few months in 2022 was available to North American customers through selected Korean shopping/shipping businesses (e.g., Harumio).
"Tesla OEM"
Straight "pass-
through" circuitry.​
AVAILABLE
(in Korea).

Previous CCS1 Adapters

Disclosures and Alerts:
  • In 2022 I purchased two Tesla-Korea CCS1 adapters, along with aftermarket cases for those adapters, from Harumio in South Korea. (I found the process painless and convenient and staff there helpful and professional.) I paid the standard Harumio retail prices. I do not own, nor have I seen or handled, any of the other CCS1 adapters.

  • More importantly, I have not received, nor am I or will I be receiving any payment or compensation in any form whatsoever from any company or individual regarding CCS1 adapters (or for that matter any other Tesla- or auto-related issue). All opinions, right or wrong, offered in this post are my own.

  • The third-party CCS1 adapter market continues to be competitive. Product specifications and information (especially availability and prices) can evolve suddenly and unexpectedly as the market adjusts to recent events. Therefore, information included here may be in error or out-of-date. If you choose to purchase a third-party product, always check with the seller for the latest information and discounts before buying. As with other Tesla-applicable accessories, consumers now have a choice of factory or aftermarket products.
 
Last edited:

bradtem

Robocar consultant
Dec 18, 2018
935
1,069
Sunnyvale, CA
6-20 outlets are the only ones with back wiring. 6-15 only use side wiring (bending the wire with pliers). Hence why I am asking about 6-20 outlets. And yes confirmed 14AWG. None of this is up to code (use of extension cords, etc...)
I mean you could probably do it to code, if you are able to run some conduit in the garage from the current location of the socket to where you want to put the socket that the TMC plugs into. Or is that what your HOA needs to do approval on? As somebody noted above, yes, the white wire will now be a hot (I was thinking about Euro type E or F which use hot neutral) and that is non-standard but should be OK if well labeled.
 
6-20 outlets are the only ones with back wiring. 6-15 only use side wiring (bending the wire with pliers). Hence why I am asking about 6-20 outlets.
If it's 14 AWG, you're stuck with 6-15 outlets. It's not safe to use a 6-20 and if you put a 6-20 adapter on a Tesla Mobile Connector, it will draw 16A.
I mean you could probably do it to code, if you are able to run some conduit in the garage from the current location of the socket to where you want to put the socket that the TMC plugs into. Or is that what your HOA needs to do approval on? As somebody noted above, yes, the white wire will now be a hot (I was thinking about Euro type E or F which use hot neutral) and that is non-standard but should be OK if well labeled.
Yep. Color-Coding of Electrical Wires and Terminal Screws

White Wire Labeled as Hot​

Sometimes a white wire is used as a hot wire—not a neutral—in a switch leg, or switch loop, between a switch and a light fixture. In one common scenario, a switch is added to a fixture that is wired without a wall switch (as might be the case with a pull-chain fixture). The power is fed up to the light fixture, so there is a hot, neutral, and ground wire already there. A new cable with a black, a white, and a ground wire is run from the fixture box to a newly installed switch.


The black wire from the new cable connects to the black hot wire in the fixture box and to one of the terminals on the single-pole switch. The white wire from the new cable connects to the fixture's hot wire terminal or hot wire lead and to the other screw terminal on the switch; it serves as the second hot wire in the switch loop. To clearly indicate that the new white wire is used as a hot wire, it should be wrapped with a band of black or red electrical tape near both ends of the wire. This means the white wire is "coded for hot."
 
If it's 14 AWG, you're stuck with 6-15 outlets. It's not safe to use a 6-20 and if you put a 6-20 adapter on a Tesla Mobile Connector, it will draw 16A.
I plan to use the Tesla 6-15 adapter to draw 12A. It's just the outlet that would be 6-20. I don't see a technical problem here as long as I don't draw more than 12A. I found a 16 foot extension cord that is a 6-15P/male and 6-20R/female with 12AWG.
Right now I'm using a Southwire Agripro 12/3 5-15 extension cord at 25 ft and checked it with a FLIR, no thermal spikes or anything like that. The TMC and 15A breaker are about 15F above ambient max.
 
I plan to use the Tesla 6-15 adapter to draw 12A. It's just the outlet that would be 6-20. I don't see a technical problem here as long as I don't draw more than 12A. I found a 16 foot extension cord that is a 6-15P/male and 6-20R/female with 12AWG.
Right now I'm using a Southwire Agripro 12/3 5-15 extension cord at 25 ft and checked it with a FLIR, no thermal spikes or anything like that. The TMC and 15A breaker are about 15F above ambient max.
6-20 outlet with a 15A breaker behind it is not permitted. 20A breaker with 14AWG wiring is not permitted. And there's nothing inherently bad about side wiring. I think back wiring is more likely to fail, especially if it's the type that you press the wire in and it holds in with a spring. The ones that hold the wires in with screws are better, but that's a moot point for you unless you can find a 6-15 outlet with that type of wiring because you're not allowed to use a 6-20 with 14AWG wiring or a 20A breaker, period.
 

bradtem

Robocar consultant
Dec 18, 2018
935
1,069
Sunnyvale, CA
I plan to use the Tesla 6-15 adapter to draw 12A. It's just the outlet that would be 6-20. I don't see a technical problem here as long as I don't draw more than 12A. I found a 16 foot extension cord that is a 6-15P/male and 6-20R/female with 12AWG.
Right now I'm using a Southwire Agripro 12/3 5-15 extension cord at 25 ft and checked it with a FLIR, no thermal spikes or anything like that. The TMC and 15A breaker are about 15F above ambient max.
But why use that outlet? Yes, the 6-15 plug will plug into the 6-20 outlet and manage the current but why do that?
The reason this is not allowed is that somebody who comes along later, not realizing what you did, could plug a 20 amp device into that plug and it would overload. Yes, that's not very likely -- maybe you would even take out the circuit if you left the property -- but the code presumes somebody is going to try to use it who doesn't know what you did.
 
6-20 outlet with a 15A breaker behind it is not permitted. 20A breaker with 14AWG wiring is not permitted. And there's nothing inherently bad about side wiring. I think back wiring is more likely to fail, especially if it's the type that you press the wire in and it holds in with a spring. The ones that hold the wires in with screws are better, but that's a moot point for you unless you can find a 6-15 outlet with that type of wiring because you're not allowed to use a 6-20 with 14AWG wiring or a 20A breaker, period.

Back wiring means using the screw to hold down a plate. What you're talking about is back stabbing which is bad. The 6-15 outlets are all side wiring meaning bending the wire to encircle the screw.
All of my household 5-15 industrial grade outlets use back wiring. where I use the screw to hold down a plate that contacts all of the wiring coming from the back. As to why 6-15 does not offer back wiring is beyond me. The only back-wiring options I have seen for 6-15/6-20 are the 6-20 industrial grade with isolated ground, hence why I am looking to use 6-20.
None of this is really up to code if you think about it. Using extension cords, replacing the garage door circuit with a 6-15, and then having to use an extension cord for the garage door opener for another circuit, etc... This avoids making anything permanent so when/if I have to sell my unit, it's easy to bring it back to stock.
 
  • Like
Reactions: STS-134
But why use that outlet? Yes, the 6-15 plug will plug into the 6-20 outlet and manage the current but why do that?
The reason this is not allowed is that somebody who comes along later, not realizing what you did, could plug a 20 amp device into that plug and it would overload. Yes, that's not very likely -- maybe you would even take out the circuit if you left the property -- but the code presumes somebody is going to try to use it who doesn't know what you did.

None of this is really up to code as i mentioned above. The 6-20 outlet with isolated ground seems to be the only 6-15/6-20 outlet with back wiring (not back stabbing). Otherwise the 6-15s are side wiring. Which I don't understand since I have all industrial grade 5-15 that use back wiring (not back stabbing). If it is the same current, why make the 6-15 use side wiring only?
I'm running extension cords as is (12AWG) so I can bring everything back to stock if I have to sell.
 

bradtem

Robocar consultant
Dec 18, 2018
935
1,069
Sunnyvale, CA
None of this is really up to code as i mentioned above. The 6-20 outlet with isolated ground seems to be the only 6-15/6-20 outlet with back wiring (not back stabbing). Otherwise the 6-15s are side wiring. Which I don't understand since I have all industrial grade 5-15 that use back wiring (not back stabbing). If it is the same current, why make the 6-15 use side wiring only?
I'm running extension cords as is (12AWG) so I can bring everything back to stock if I have to sell.
With the rise of EV adoption, I suspect somebody buying your home would be as likely to love the presence of an EV charging plug as the current layout, though admittedly it is an odd garage with no other circuit in it.

Not sure what back stabbing is but man 6-15s do have back wiring. I think it is wise just to accept the ones that are out there than to put in 6-20. The 6-20 is not to code and would never survive inspection.
 
With the rise of EV adoption, I suspect somebody buying your home would be as likely to love the presence of an EV charging plug as the current layout, though admittedly it is an odd garage with no other circuit in it.

Not sure what back stabbing is but man 6-15s do have back wiring. I think it is wise just to accept the ones that are out there than to put in 6-20. The 6-20 is not to code and would never survive inspection.

Back stabbing is also speed wiring where you jam the wire into the back and it clicks in place. Back wiring is where the wire goes under a plate that gets secured by the side screw. ALL of my 5-15 and 5-20s are home have back wiring (industrial grade). All of the 6-15s I've seen (Leviton, Eaton, Enerlite) are side-wiring only. I found a few 6-20s that are advertised as back wiring and side wiring but they are the ones with isolated ground (with that triangle marking on the face). Hospital grade or something to that extent, to prevent noise from the chassis ground.
My garage was made 2013/2014 so it's not that old and has 2 circuits. 1 dedicated garage door opener (15A), and 1 outlet shared with living room/outdoor lighting/garage lighting/outdoor outlets/etc at 15A and basically a mess.

But its just that none of the homes/units made within the past few years were required to have EV charging capability. I think Europe/UK was the first to require new builds within the past few years to have some EV charging outlets. In the US some states are starting to do it.

If I were to sell, I'd replace that 6-20 with the 5-15 prior to inspection.
 
Here's a lengthy explanation of side wiring, back wiring, and speed wiring/backstabbing.

Again all of my 5-15 outlets have back wiring (Eaton industrial/commercial grade). I just don't understand why 6-15 don't offer it since it is the same current but twice the power. Would make more sense.
 

Genie

Member
Supporting Member
Here's a lengthy explanation of side wiring, back wiring, and speed wiring/backstabbing.

Again all of my 5-15 outlets have back wiring (Eaton industrial/commercial grade). I just don't understand why 6-15 don't offer it since it is the same current but twice the power. Would make more sense.
”Back wiring is best” from the video title, while I agree, that does not mean side connection is in any way unsafe.
It’s an increasing hassle in wires larger than 14awg as the wire becomes harder to bend under the screw vs the screw and clamp in back wiring. 14 gauge is very easy to side wire, 12 is a pita
 
Back wiring means using the screw to hold down a plate. What you're talking about is back stabbing which is bad. The 6-15 outlets are all side wiring meaning bending the wire to encircle the screw.
All of my household 5-15 industrial grade outlets use back wiring. where I use the screw to hold down a plate that contacts all of the wiring coming from the back. As to why 6-15 does not offer back wiring is beyond me. The only back-wiring options I have seen for 6-15/6-20 are the 6-20 industrial grade with isolated ground, hence why I am looking to use 6-20.
I don't think that's a good reason to use a 6-20. Unless you want to put in 12 AWG wiring. But in that case, you might as well go with 4 AWG and install a WC or a 14-50. Back stabbing should be avoided but side wiring is not unsafe. It might be slightly more annoying to do, but it is not unsafe and will only take a few minutes of your time for an outlet you can use for years. Just make sure you wrap the hook around the screw in the direction it turns when it tightens so when you tighten the screw, it doesn't make the wire come loose.
None of this is really up to code if you think about it. Using extension cords, replacing the garage door circuit with a 6-15, and then having to use an extension cord for the garage door opener for another circuit, etc... This avoids making anything permanent so when/if I have to sell my unit, it's easy to bring it back to stock.
Using properly sized extension cords isn't actually dangerous though. Having an outlet that is improperly sized for the wiring and breaker is much more dangerous and you might not be around to tell someone not to use the full 20A.
 
I don't think that's a good reason to use a 6-20. Unless you want to put in 12 AWG wiring. But in that case, you might as well go with 4 AWG and install a WC or a 14-50.

Using properly sized extension cords isn't actually dangerous though. Having an outlet that is improperly sized for the wiring and breaker is much more dangerous and you might not be around to tell someone not to use the full 20A.

It takes 2 seconds to switch between outlets. I'd have to fish maybe 100 feet of wiring to go with 4AWG and a 14-50 outlet, accessing multiple floors, etc... Not to mention $8000 in fees/assessments/approvals.

There's nothing in the house that uses 6-15 or 6-20. I've never even heard of it until this thread. I bought both 6-15 and 6-20 duplex outlets to see which one I like.
 
It takes 2 seconds to switch between outlets. I'd have to fish maybe 100 feet of wiring to go with 4AWG and a 14-50 outlet, accessing multiple floors, etc... Not to mention $8000 in fees/assessments/approvals.

There's nothing in the house that uses 6-15 or 6-20. I've never even heard of it until this thread. I bought both 6-15 and 6-20 duplex outlets to see which one I like.
Here you go: Straight Blade Devices, Receptacles, Single, Specification Grade, 2-Pole 3-Wire Grounding, 15A 250V, 6-15R, Brown, Single Pack | HBL5661 | Hubbell

NEMA 6-15 outlet with back wiring. Push the wire in and tighten down the screws. Comes in a lot of different colors too. Here's one for sale on Grainger: https://www.grainger.com/product/5Z832 $45 each.
 
  • Like
Reactions: metroplex
Here you go: Straight Blade Devices, Receptacles, Single, Specification Grade, 2-Pole 3-Wire Grounding, 15A 250V, 6-15R, Brown, Single Pack | HBL5661 | Hubbell

NEMA 6-15 outlet with back wiring. Push the wire in and tighten down the screws. Comes in a lot of different colors too. Here's one for sale on Grainger: https://www.grainger.com/product/5Z832 $45 each.

i never thought to check Grainger... Any ideas on duplex vs single? Is one better than the other or is it just a code thing? I don't plan to charge 2 EVs at the same time.
 

bradtem

Robocar consultant
Dec 18, 2018
935
1,069
Sunnyvale, CA
i never thought to check Grainger... Any ideas on duplex vs single? Is one better than the other or is it just a code thing? I don't plan to charge 2 EVs at the same time.
You never plan to plug anything else in this circuit -- and in fact you should not as you plan to max it out -- so single is definitely the way to go.
 
I kind of like the Agripro 12/3 extension cord I have (Made in USA, rated down to -58F, up to +221F) but it is only rated for 15A/125V - or is it only because of the NEMA 5-15 plug it has? Could I cut the ends, and use Hubbell's 6-15R and 6-15P plugs/connectors to make my own extension cord properly/safely?
 

bradtem

Robocar consultant
Dec 18, 2018
935
1,069
Sunnyvale, CA
I kind of like the Agripro 12/3 extension cord I have (Made in USA, rated down to -58F, up to +221F) but it is only rated for 15A/125V - or is it only because of the NEMA 5-15 plug it has? Could I cut the ends, and use Hubbell's 6-15R and 6-15P plugs/connectors to make my own extension cord properly/safely?
It is probably the plugs. But at this point, while it would be totally not to code, you could even leave your 5-15 plug in place after changing the breaker if you want to plug in that cord. Super risky if anybody else ever comes to your socket and tries to plug something else into it, of course, they will likely fry it and do other bad things. But it's not that expensive to buy a 12/3 6-15 cord, is it?

I used to do something similar. I own a 10/3 cord with 5-15 plugs. I plugged it into a 20a dedicated socket. Then I put a 5-15 to 5-20 adapter on it just so I could plug the TMC's 5-20 into it and get 20a (16a) for the car. It looked very silly and is not to code but if somebody were to try to plug into that adapter, it would still work as everything is 20a upstream. But I found it a bit dicey and sometimes it would get warm (not hot) so I eventually switched out to stealing my dryer's 240v30a which is way more than my car needs.
 

About Us

Formed in 2006, Tesla Motors Club (TMC) was the first independent online Tesla community. Today it remains the largest and most dynamic community of Tesla enthusiasts. Learn more.

Do you value your experience at TMC? Consider becoming a Supporting Member of Tesla Motors Club. As a thank you for your contribution, you'll get nearly no ads in the Community and Groups sections. Additional perks are available depending on the level of contribution. Please visit the Account Upgrades page for more details.


SUPPORT TMC
Top