MapledLeif
Member
And they just got back to me saying that my order would be dispatched in 1 - 2 weeks.
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New TeslaOffer SR+ Speaker Activation Wiring
- Thread starter rfullerton
- Start date
I have 2021 sr+ , I bought that kit for $80cad plus $100 installed from teslamarket.ca . Personally me, no difference at all, yes you can hear that those 4 extra front speakers if you come very close to them, but in normal driving position they losing with powerful standard speakers. Its just same load, nothing else, not more detailed .if you can install by your self its not expensive to do that. If you have different plans for your money better invest them to tinting or etc
MapledLeif
Member
My cable from Tesla Offer arrived yesterday and I'll be installing it today in my '21 SR+. I got the subwoofer outputs with it, and it included Posi-taps to tap into the tweeter on the passenger side of the car. Apparently the driver side speakers are fed at the B-pillar. I've already done most of the install work for the NVX BOOST kit so everything will get tied in today. I'll post pics and my thoughts when it's done. Thank you to everyone on this, and other threads, for all your help.
MapledLeif
Member
So here's a heads up to anyone with a 2021 SR+ that gets the Tesla Offer Speaker Activation Cable. It turns out that some of the newer 2021 models have a wiring change. Now I'm not talking about the missing connector for the tweets on the passenger side, it's more involved than that and the fix is to cut 2 of the wires on the connector at the B pillar.
Let me try to explain.
I installed the speaker activation cable and used the included posi-tap connectors to tie in the passenger side inactive speakers like any Refresh model missing the connector would need. The driver side inactive speakers get fed from an additional connector at the B pillar on the passenger side. (This is one of the reasons I went for the Tesla Offer solution as everything is done from the passenger side). I had Tesla Offer pre-wire outputs for my LOC and amp for my sub in the trunk, and tied them in as well.
Everything seemed to work right away. The sub had signal, and I could hear audio coming from the 4 inactive speakers in the front. The only thing to do now is to tune it all, right? Well I had a heck of a time. Something didn't sound right. The mids and highs would fade out a little every time significant bass played in a song. I played around with the EQ and I couldn't get it to sound right. There were times when I could swear that the mids were out of phase, and I double checked my wiring. Then the front right stopped working all together. I only had left front channel, and the right front was dead. I faded everything to the front right and the only sound I could hear was from my sub and the right door woofer.
I contacted Tesla Offer support and was in touch with Ray via chat immediately (considering the time difference) and he is one heck of a nice and concerned guy!! He said to wait a while and then try again to see if it might have been an e-fuse that would reset itself before we would troubleshoot more. I did, and bingo it worked again. But only for a while, and it still sounded "odd". I then started some trouble shooting and recorded video of it, which I sent to Ray. Part of my trouble shooting involved unplugging the connector at the B pillar (that's the one between the front and rear seats), and the front right mids started working beautifully!!! Obviously the front left was not working because it's fed from that B-pillar connector. As soon as I connected the B-pillar connector again, the front right stopped again. Okay.... now we're getting somewhere.
Ray asked a few clarifying questions over chat and he came back with the suggestion of cutting 2 of the wires on the Tesla Offer Harness at the B-pillar. As it turns out, there have been some wiring changes of the most recent 2021 SR+ LHD that are not present on the RHD version. I have not yet done the cutting of the wires to fix my issue, but instead helped Ray with some additional experimentation. I left the front harness plugged in so I still have signal going to my sub, but everything else is disconnected at the moment. I'm going to let my ears get used to how it sounds (and it sounds pretty damn good with the additional low end on the sub), and then maybe next weekend I'll try the fix that Ray offered.
So, let that be a word of caution to anyone with a recent 2021 SR+ that is considering the Tesla Offer Speaker Activation Harness. My SR+ was manufactured in March of 2021.
Let me try to explain.
I installed the speaker activation cable and used the included posi-tap connectors to tie in the passenger side inactive speakers like any Refresh model missing the connector would need. The driver side inactive speakers get fed from an additional connector at the B pillar on the passenger side. (This is one of the reasons I went for the Tesla Offer solution as everything is done from the passenger side). I had Tesla Offer pre-wire outputs for my LOC and amp for my sub in the trunk, and tied them in as well.
Everything seemed to work right away. The sub had signal, and I could hear audio coming from the 4 inactive speakers in the front. The only thing to do now is to tune it all, right? Well I had a heck of a time. Something didn't sound right. The mids and highs would fade out a little every time significant bass played in a song. I played around with the EQ and I couldn't get it to sound right. There were times when I could swear that the mids were out of phase, and I double checked my wiring. Then the front right stopped working all together. I only had left front channel, and the right front was dead. I faded everything to the front right and the only sound I could hear was from my sub and the right door woofer.
I contacted Tesla Offer support and was in touch with Ray via chat immediately (considering the time difference) and he is one heck of a nice and concerned guy!! He said to wait a while and then try again to see if it might have been an e-fuse that would reset itself before we would troubleshoot more. I did, and bingo it worked again. But only for a while, and it still sounded "odd". I then started some trouble shooting and recorded video of it, which I sent to Ray. Part of my trouble shooting involved unplugging the connector at the B pillar (that's the one between the front and rear seats), and the front right mids started working beautifully!!! Obviously the front left was not working because it's fed from that B-pillar connector. As soon as I connected the B-pillar connector again, the front right stopped again. Okay.... now we're getting somewhere.
Ray asked a few clarifying questions over chat and he came back with the suggestion of cutting 2 of the wires on the Tesla Offer Harness at the B-pillar. As it turns out, there have been some wiring changes of the most recent 2021 SR+ LHD that are not present on the RHD version. I have not yet done the cutting of the wires to fix my issue, but instead helped Ray with some additional experimentation. I left the front harness plugged in so I still have signal going to my sub, but everything else is disconnected at the moment. I'm going to let my ears get used to how it sounds (and it sounds pretty damn good with the additional low end on the sub), and then maybe next weekend I'll try the fix that Ray offered.
So, let that be a word of caution to anyone with a recent 2021 SR+ that is considering the Tesla Offer Speaker Activation Harness. My SR+ was manufactured in March of 2021.
I'm about to do mine tomorrow, I'm in Canada, have a new Model 3 and the teslaoffer kit...Where are you at with this?
MapledLeif
Member
I have yet to try cutting the wires and reconnecting all the connections to the harness. I've really been enjoying the sound without the additional 4 speakers connected up front. I have been able to fine tune the LOC and amp that go to my sub and the sound is really freaking good at the moment. I have to say that my ears are certainly used to the sound the way it is now, so it would be a good time for me reconnect everything now. I will be doing it this weekend and can report back. I will attach the photos that Ray sent me that indicate the 2 wires that need to be cut from the harness at the B-Pillar.
Like I said, I have not yet hooked everything back up and cut the wires yet... these are the pics that were send direct from Ray.
Hope this helps!
Hey, thanks. I've got exactly the same issue you do. No sound to right front... Raymond sent me same pics,just not looking forward to cutting those wires, especially so close to the clip.
Might try it Saturday
If you don't want to cut the wires, maybe try to de-pin those wires instead? Usually a very fine pick should do the trick. That way if it doesn't work out, you can always put the pins back in.
MapledLeif
Member
Good point... I think I'll try that. Better to do that and tape them off than to cut them close to the connector. Another option would be to unwrap the tape they have around the wires and cut it further away from the clips, but there's not much room to work with either way.
So... I cut the 2 wires, still not working. I'm too busy over the next few days, so it'll have to wait. @MapledLeif - let me know if you have any luck
MapledLeif
Member
Hmmm... interesting. It's raining here all day, so I won't get side tracked by yard work. I'll try on mine and report back.
MapledLeif
Member
Okay, so I was able to do this today. I unwrapped that section of the wiring harness so that I had a little more room to work with, and crimped on some connectors so that I could easily connect them again if needed. Here's my troubleshooting so far:
1) With the Tesla Offer harness completely connected as it should be, I get sound from all the speakers like advertised.... UNTIL I drive somewhere. Something happens when either turn signal sounds play or other car "attention sounds" come on, then I lose the entire front right channel. Not just the extra 2 speakers on the right, but ALL of the front right channel.
2) As soon as I disconnect the harness at the B-Pillar, the front right channel comes back. The passenger door tweeter plays, but not the passenger A-Pillar speaker. The driver door tweeter and the driver A-Pillar speaker do not play when the connector at the B-pillar is disconnected (as expected) because that's where they're fed from.
3) When I reconnect the B-pillar harness, and I cut the 2 wires identified by Raymond at the B-Pillar connection, the driver door tweeter and A-Pillar speaker have sound. The passenger door tweeter has sound, but the passenger A-pillar does NOT.
4) I reconnect the 2 wires that I had cut, and the passenger A-pillar speaker plays again.... UNTIL I drive somewhere again.
I've done videos for Raymond showing all of this troubleshooting and have disconnected the Tesla Offer harness again (with the exception of the one at the ICE that feeds my subwoofers). Basically this way doesn't activate any of the extra speakers, but maintains the signal to my sub. Such a pain, and not really sure what I'll do going forward. I'm happy to help Raymond troubleshoot some more, but I'm not a fan of getting in behind my panels anymore. LOL.
I've attached a pic of the quick-connections that I put in for the 2 wires that Raymond identified I should cut.
Attachments
With mine connected as instructed {as well as with the wires cut) everything works except the front right. The dash speaker, upper tweeter, mid (triangular) speaker have zero sound and the lower door "sub" has just low bass. Left works perfectly...
I'm going to unplug the positaps tomorrow, see what happens...
I'm going to unplug the positaps tomorrow, see what happens...
bo3bdar
Member
Just curious if anyone has run across a pinout for that blue connector at the B pillar?
I've got a similar harness, but from TopFit instead. I want to inline a JBL DSP amp so that I can tune the stereo better, but it's not quite clear to me yet what pins route to different speakers.
Since it works when you are parked, but then goes bad after you drive, that suggests that it's actually wired up OK. If it were wired wrong I'd expect it to always fail. Something in the software is detecting something wrong or that it doesn't like and changing the behavior.
I think it would be worth trying to cut the little round upper speakers out of the harness. Those are imaging speakers and the least valuable in terms of sound. Keeping the tweeters on the lower A pillar would be worthwhile. The reason I think this is worth trying is because of all of these harnesses are poorly designed and put 3 speakers in parallel. That lowers the impedance that the amp sees from 4 ohms to 1/(1/4+1/4+1/4)=1.3 ohms. Pretty much any amp can drive 2 ohms, but 1.3 is getting into the range where the amp might be cutting out because it's pulling too much power. You can lighten the load by removing the imaging speakers and then have just 1/(1/4+1/4)=2 ohms.
I'm not sure if the TeslaOffer includes the magic box like the Hannshow, which has 470 microF capacitors that do something no one quite knows what. Might be trying to do a better impedance match. If someone can tell me how it's wired I can answer it. The TopFit harness has nothing, just all wired in parallel.
I've got a similar harness, but from TopFit instead. I want to inline a JBL DSP amp so that I can tune the stereo better, but it's not quite clear to me yet what pins route to different speakers.
Since it works when you are parked, but then goes bad after you drive, that suggests that it's actually wired up OK. If it were wired wrong I'd expect it to always fail. Something in the software is detecting something wrong or that it doesn't like and changing the behavior.
I think it would be worth trying to cut the little round upper speakers out of the harness. Those are imaging speakers and the least valuable in terms of sound. Keeping the tweeters on the lower A pillar would be worthwhile. The reason I think this is worth trying is because of all of these harnesses are poorly designed and put 3 speakers in parallel. That lowers the impedance that the amp sees from 4 ohms to 1/(1/4+1/4+1/4)=1.3 ohms. Pretty much any amp can drive 2 ohms, but 1.3 is getting into the range where the amp might be cutting out because it's pulling too much power. You can lighten the load by removing the imaging speakers and then have just 1/(1/4+1/4)=2 ohms.
I'm not sure if the TeslaOffer includes the magic box like the Hannshow, which has 470 microF capacitors that do something no one quite knows what. Might be trying to do a better impedance match. If someone can tell me how it's wired I can answer it. The TopFit harness has nothing, just all wired in parallel.
MapledLeif
Member
You bring up a really good point. During my initial conversation with Tesla Offer Support, his first assumption into what was causing the front right to go out was an e-fuse. He asked me to wait a while and see if it started working again... which it did. You might be right in that the impedance the amp sees is too low with either loud music or the volume of the car's attention sounds. I think I have seen someone's pin-out for the B-Pillar connector, but I'll have to search for it. I wouldn't mind cutting out the A-Pillar speakers and having just the door tweets added to see how that sounds.
If you find the pin-out before I do, then please post. When I find it I'll post it as well.
MapledLeif
Member
Sounds like you might have a different issue than I have. If you remove the harness all together and have the original connector going into the ICE, you will likely get the right dash speaker back. I've been talking to tech support and we're trying to work through some changes that might have happened with the 2021 LHD model. They say that it has been hit and miss with the '21's.
I just ordered the same thing, and was planning on buying the subwoofer and amp kit. How did that work out for you? Did you notice a significant difference between the original audio and afterwards, with all speakers activated and the subwoofer installed?
For me, the subwoofer part was very easy. I grabbed power and ground from under the rear seat (lots of pics throughout this forum) and I decided to use the Rockford Fosgate 10 inch sub with amp built in. I ran the 4 sub wires along the rear seat and under the velcro'd rear carpet. Then I cut a small slit and ran them into the amp.
The combination of the activated rear speakers and the new sub really round out the sound amazingly. I keep the sub quite low, probably less than half volume.
Install isn't quite done, but this is the basic idea. Fit under the cover and with 2 clips, the sub can be removed if I ever needed the space.
The whole thing took about 5 hours, and aside from the small issues with the right tweeter, everything went as planned and the directions were good.
Small hands were an asset. Set aside a day so you're not hurried.
The combination of the activated rear speakers and the new sub really round out the sound amazingly. I keep the sub quite low, probably less than half volume.
Install isn't quite done, but this is the basic idea. Fit under the cover and with 2 clips, the sub can be removed if I ever needed the space.
The whole thing took about 5 hours, and aside from the small issues with the right tweeter, everything went as planned and the directions were good.
Small hands were an asset. Set aside a day so you're not hurried.