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New TeslaOffer SR+ Speaker Activation Wiring

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For 2021, The connectors for both of the mirror tweeters are no longer present.

passenger side:
View attachment 638804

Thanks todd2fast4u!
Wife has a 2021 model 3, got the tesla offer activation kit with the rear speakers.
Overall a very easy install after watching the install video. Rear speakers were the trickiest part.
Overall can definitely tell a substantial difference in the sound quality. Door woofers sound the same. To show my wife the difference, I would unplug and replug the rear and the front speakers for comparison and definitely a buy. I have the model y and she was bummed about the difference between mine and hers but she is happy now!
 
89$ for the harness and subwoofer wiring. Didn't installed it yet, still looking for a dsp, amp and subwoofer. I was planning to use NVX but they don't schip to my country.

I hacked up the Teslaoffer harness and fed the front mids, front doors, and rear doors into a Helix V Eight DSP. I'm powering the Front Mids, Doors, Front Tweeters, and Rear Doors with the DSP now, and using the line outputs to run a seperate sub amp (work in progress). The Helix DSP is amazing. I've done just a tiny bit of tuning and the system already sounds waaay better than stock even without a sub installed yet. I am not running the center channel or the A pillar imaging speakers. Don't really need em.
 
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Those of you using the Alpine KTP-445U amp to power the additional speakers, where are you locating the amp? I have my harness and stuff and i'm thinking through where to put it. Did you put it up in the dash?
Behind the passenger side rear seat side bolster.
A1203F44-E87E-43F4-AACD-F6C55FA473C4.jpeg
 
I just installed the Tesla Offer harness and need to THANK @todd2fst4u for all his guidance. Todd numerous times has mentioned making his own harness and I can see the benefit to cannibalizing the Tesla Offer harness to run your own wires from the ICE computer to the Alpine Amp and back to the B-pillar connector to attach the overhead and driver tweeter. Buy a length of 'Speedwire'( 9 strands in one cable) from Amazon to make your life easier. I tried using the enclosed positaps for the passenger tweeter but was struggling to find some slack in the Red and White wires. I'll attack this another day.

The process is fairly easy but putting everything back together afterward was the challenge. As for the sound, it's definitely a brighter sound. Running through a few songs, I can definitely hear the difference. I just need to play around with the gain on the Alpine and adjust the equalizer to something that sounds good to me.

When I took the cover off underneath the glove box, there was a speaker attached to the cover that I don't remember reading about. A 14th speaker?
 

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I just installed the Tesla Offer harness and need to THANK @todd2fst4u for all his guidance. Todd numerous times has mentioned making his own harness and I can see the benefit to cannibalizing the Tesla Offer harness to run your own wires from the ICE computer to the Alpine Amp and back to the B-pillar connector to attach the overhead and driver tweeter. Buy a length of 'Speedwire'( 9 strands in one cable) from Amazon to make your life easier. I tried using the enclosed positaps for the passenger tweeter but was struggling to find some slack in the Red and White wires. I'll attack this another day.

The process is fairly easy but putting everything back together afterward was the challenge. As for the sound, it's definitely a brighter sound. Running through a few songs, I can definitely hear the difference. I just need to play around with the gain on the Alpine and adjust the equalizer to something that sounds good to me.

When I took the cover off underneath the glove box, there was a speaker attached to the cover that I don't remember reading about. A 14th speaker?
You're welcome!

Tesla calls the speaker under the dash an emergency speaker.
Screen Shot 2021-03-09 at 2.54.08 PM.png
 
I just installed the Tesla Offer harness and need to THANK @todd2fst4u for all his guidance. Todd numerous times has mentioned making his own harness and I can see the benefit to cannibalizing the Tesla Offer harness to run your own wires from the ICE computer to the Alpine Amp and back to the B-pillar connector to attach the overhead and driver tweeter. Buy a length of 'Speedwire'( 9 strands in one cable) from Amazon to make your life easier. I tried using the enclosed positaps for the passenger tweeter but was struggling to find some slack in the Red and White wires. I'll attack this another day.

The process is fairly easy but putting everything back together afterward was the challenge. As for the sound, it's definitely a brighter sound. Running through a few songs, I can definitely hear the difference. I just need to play around with the gain on the Alpine and adjust the equalizer to something that sounds good to me.

When I took the cover off underneath the glove box, there was a speaker attached to the cover that I don't remember reading about. A 14th speaker?
The speedwire is a great tip. I’m almost done with with full audio upgrade and I use 3 runs of 9 conductor speedwire and one 4 conductor wire with it. That’s for getting the 12 wires you need from the ICE to DSP and then the 16 you need back out for all the speakers.

I also run a hacked up TO harness and they are really great for this project. Todd has also been super helpful to me as well and I probably would have gone with his solution had I not got bitten by the audio bug hahah
 
Hey folks, help me understand.
So you don't need an amp power the new speakers correct? Then why are people adding amps? And if so, why the Alpine one. Reading the specs it puts out 45w rms and 90rms. The front doors are rated for 80w. Is that 10w extra worth it? For those that have done it, how much of a difference does the amp make. Asking bc I'm installing the harness tommorow and possible thinking of a focal 4channel amp as recommended by a local shop
 
Hey folks, help me understand.
So you don't need an amp power the new speakers correct? Then why are people adding amps? And if so, why the Alpine one. Reading the specs it puts out 45w rms and 90rms. The front doors are rated for 80w. Is that 10w extra worth it? For those that have done it, how much of a difference does the amp make. Asking bc I'm installing the harness tommorow and possible thinking of a focal 4channel amp as recommended by a local shop
I just finished installing my modified harness with the alpine amp. I did it because I didn't want to cause the ICE on the car to possibly develop an issue powering 6 extra speakers. I still need to install my rear speakers, hopefully tomorrow if it doesn't rain.
 
So I got to install this harness.
My largest annoyance was that IT DID NOT INCLUDE POSITAPS! I had to pay $10 fora pack just to use 2 of them.

Overall the install was very easy. The panels that needed to be removed was easy, at least compared to removing the door panels. Even the positaps, which I have never used before, were done perfectly on my first try. One tip I will share is that a lot of people are saying there is little space to work with near the ice. Computer . While this is true my technique was to put myself upside down. As in, the back of my head was on the carpet and my feet on the headrests. It's actually comfortable and you have n excellent view of everything. Oh and having those extra speakers make a big difference!
 
For 2021, The connectors for both of the mirror tweeters are no longer present.

Pre 2021 Driver:
View attachment 638800
Pre 2021 Passenger:
View attachment 638801

Instead you can tap the wires at the large white connector. The passenger side uses the red(-) and white(+) wires on the left side of the connector. The driver side uses the purple(-) and black(+) wires on the left side of its connector.

2021 driver side:
View attachment 638802 2021 passenger side:
View attachment 638804
For 2021, The connectors for both of the mirror tweeters are no longer present.

Pre 2021 Driver:
View attachment 638800
Pre 2021 Passenger:
View attachment 638801

Instead you can tap the wires at the large white connector. The passenger side uses the red(-) and white(+) wires on the left side of the connector. The driver side uses the purple(-) and black(+) wires on the left side of its connector.

2021 driver side:
View attachment 638802 2021 passenger side:
View attachment 638804
I've tried using the suggested wires on my 2021 non-premium audio sr+ with 0 (zero) success. Does anyone know of any other speaker wire combos to try? I'm using an AudioControl LC2i line-out converter that I pulled from a working system (same for the amplifier & subs). I have lights everywhere but no bass. Please help!
 
I've tried using the suggested wires on my 2021 non-premium audio sr+ with 0 (zero) success. Does anyone know of any other speaker wire combos to try? I'm using an AudioControl LC2i line-out converter that I pulled from a working system (same for the amplifier & subs). I have lights everywhere but no bass. Please help!
The wires you referenced are for the inactive tweeters mounted on the front doors. You need to tap the signal going to the front door woofers. The wires to do this are accessible in the same connectors.
Driver side red - / white +
Passenger side brown - / grey +
C48AA43A-2C91-4273-930B-3BC2A90F8C50.jpeg

5A44DF72-FC00-46F5-9B46-8A540A6C82C9.jpeg
 
The wires you referenced are for the inactive tweeters mounted on the front doors. You need to tap the signal going to the front door woofers. The wires to do this are accessible in the same connectors.
Driver side red - / white +
Passenger side brown - / grey +
View attachment 654508
View attachment 654509
I just looked & I've tried those. Perhaps the t-taps I'm using aren't making a solid connection...?
 
I'm eagerly awaiting the Tesla Offer wiring harness with subwoofer output, but it's currently on back order. Not sure how long it will be, but my NVX BOOST Kit arrived in 3 business days. I could move ahead with the install of the boost kit, but was wanting to do everything at once and avoid splicing into wires in my '21 SR+ to feed the LOC. From this thread though, it looks like I'll have to do some splicing anyway if I want to activate the door tweets.