I am a new Tesla owner so if this is a dumb question, I apologize. Should I be concerned? I had my Tesla charged to 90%. Drove 9 miles and it is down to 85%. Yesterday, the first day I had my car it dropped from 87% to 59% in 45 miles. I am not driving fast, (I’m an old lady and it’s not why I bought the car.) I do have the A/C on but only at level 2-3. What could be wrong? When I look at the trip information it said 456km/m (is it km/m?…this is from my memory) Please help.
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New to Tesla - lost 5% in 9 miles
- Thread starter Wendyzattic
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Short trips are less efficient. You will use a lot of energy to cool down the passenger cabin only to have the passenger cabin quickly heat up after you park. If you park in the sun the passenger cabin can reach 140F unless you have Cabin Overheat Protection (COP) (found under the Safety settings) set to On (with AC) or On with no AC (fan only). Try and park in a covered parking area during the daylight hours. COP is only active for 12 hours after you park. Note that COP with AC set to run will use quite a bit of power over time, i.e. 750Wh per hour or ~7kWh over 8 or so hours. COP without AC (fan only )will use less than half as much energy.
Consider adding a good quality ceramic tint to the windshield, side glass and rear glass. The roof has factory UV and IR (heat) rejection treatment but can also benefit to some extent from tint.
Add a sunshade for the glass roof. There are one piece and two piece designs available.
Let the AC do its thing; set to 70F and Auto. Set Recirculate Cabin Air to be on while driving to reduce the amount of work the AC must do to keep the passenger cabin at the desired temperature. The passenger side dashboard vent and rear seat vents will not turn on automatically unless there are passengers in those seat locations.
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Cyberspeed
Member
no need to be concerned. First part of trips uses a lot of battery/energy. the longer the drive the less energy you'll consume.
interior climate set point, speed, outside temps, sentry mode, pinging the vehicle via app. all reduce battery.
Just drive and enjoy - the longer you drive the more efficient you'll run. Sometimes in the mid day i'm 1,000wh/mi till I drive then it settles around 225-325 wh/mi.
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Benito1283
2021 MYLR 19"
Even a slight incline uses significantly more energy than flat. And a slight decline will use significantly less - sometimes even a net gain in battery charge. Assuming you'll always be going back to the same elevation (your home), it's a wash.
And I have also noticed more energy usage at the beginning of trips. Nothing to worry about. See what your wh/mi is after a few hundred miles.
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Use the Tesla app on your phone to precondition the Tesla vehicle for ~5 minutes before driving. The passenger cabin will be at a comfortable temperature when you enter the vehicle. You can precondition even if the Tesla vehicle is not plugged in.
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TigerNinety
Member
Just my $.02, but I think most of the above posts have it right, given where you live. I’d strongly recommend a good front windshield shade as the least expensive, most effective first step (if you’re not parking in a covered location). Personally, I’m a fan of the cabin overheat protection, even with AC (it doesn’t consume enough to bother me, and makes the AC “surge” when you get in a bit less extreme). If you look at the Energy app soon after you start driving on a hot day, you’ll see a big spike; it should drop pretty quickly.
At the same time, 87% to 59% in 45 miles is a lot, so give the above a try and see what you see. The recommendations for ceramic tint are good, but not cheap when done well, so maybe work your way toward that with other options first.
At the same time, 87% to 59% in 45 miles is a lot, so give the above a try and see what you see. The recommendations for ceramic tint are good, but not cheap when done well, so maybe work your way toward that with other options first.
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You might still be getting used to the driving dynamics, especially the one pedal driving.
During normal driving, you should almost never have to use the brake pedal. If you're still using a lot, it may be contributing to the lack of efficiency. As you get better, your usage will go down.
Very hot weather will also cause your efficiency to go down especially on short trips. Your car will spend a lot of energy cooling it down from the hot sun.
During normal driving, you should almost never have to use the brake pedal. If you're still using a lot, it may be contributing to the lack of efficiency. As you get better, your usage will go down.
Very hot weather will also cause your efficiency to go down especially on short trips. Your car will spend a lot of energy cooling it down from the hot sun.
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And, just throwing in my nickel. I agree with the comments above, but would like to point out that ICE cars have similar issues. Yes, an ICE does have an actual high-temperature engine that has to warm up to get to its efficient stage, but almost all electric cars (the Leaf being the notable exception) also have an operating temperature and have coolant to heat up/cool down the battery, motor, and cabin. Just like an ICE.
The main difference between the two is that the electric motor and battery of a BEV run at a much lower temperature than an ICE. So they tend, in the summer, to warm up a heck of a lot faster than an ICE. And, of course, BEVs are much more efficient in converting stored energy to kinetic than an ICE, so that's the other strike against an ICE.
You'll see this in other places, too. For one thing, if you're on a long trip somewhere and approaching your next Supercharging stop, a little message window will tend to pop up and state something like, "Preheating battery for supercharging". This tends to happen a lot more in cold weather; the idea for the preheat is to get one in and out of a Supercharger faster, so losing a few kW-hr's on the preheat isn't that big a deal. Preheating is done both by messing with the heat pump built into the car as well as actually, purposefully, running extra electricity through the windings of the electric motors so they heat up the coolant passing through them.
Spring, summer, and fall tend to be happy times for Tesla efficiency. During the winter, though, it's not just the cabin temperature that has to get warmed up, the battery and motor have to be warmed to their ideal high-efficiency operating temperatures. As a result, it's not unusual for a Tesla rated for 250 W-hr/mile to consume 500 W-hr/mile during that warming interval; just like with an ICE, short trips will get one reduced mileage.
I happen to be pushing a 2018 M3 LR RWD around. During the summer, it'll get 250 W-hr or less per mile. During the dead of winter, for the 20-mile commutes I tend to do, that rises up to 350 to 400 W-hr/mile. And 200 mile trips in that weather, which this car used to be able to do with at most a single stop, sometimes requires two SC stops.
Sometime in 2020 or 2021, Teslas acquired a heat pump, which, by all reports, helps enormously during cold weather. The initial W-hr/mile is still high, but corrects itself much faster. If you didn't know this before: Heat pumps, which move heat from one reservoir to another, do so using much less energy than straight electrical heating. All good, clean, fun.
The main difference between the two is that the electric motor and battery of a BEV run at a much lower temperature than an ICE. So they tend, in the summer, to warm up a heck of a lot faster than an ICE. And, of course, BEVs are much more efficient in converting stored energy to kinetic than an ICE, so that's the other strike against an ICE.
You'll see this in other places, too. For one thing, if you're on a long trip somewhere and approaching your next Supercharging stop, a little message window will tend to pop up and state something like, "Preheating battery for supercharging". This tends to happen a lot more in cold weather; the idea for the preheat is to get one in and out of a Supercharger faster, so losing a few kW-hr's on the preheat isn't that big a deal. Preheating is done both by messing with the heat pump built into the car as well as actually, purposefully, running extra electricity through the windings of the electric motors so they heat up the coolant passing through them.
Spring, summer, and fall tend to be happy times for Tesla efficiency. During the winter, though, it's not just the cabin temperature that has to get warmed up, the battery and motor have to be warmed to their ideal high-efficiency operating temperatures. As a result, it's not unusual for a Tesla rated for 250 W-hr/mile to consume 500 W-hr/mile during that warming interval; just like with an ICE, short trips will get one reduced mileage.
I happen to be pushing a 2018 M3 LR RWD around. During the summer, it'll get 250 W-hr or less per mile. During the dead of winter, for the 20-mile commutes I tend to do, that rises up to 350 to 400 W-hr/mile. And 200 mile trips in that weather, which this car used to be able to do with at most a single stop, sometimes requires two SC stops.
Sometime in 2020 or 2021, Teslas acquired a heat pump, which, by all reports, helps enormously during cold weather. The initial W-hr/mile is still high, but corrects itself much faster. If you didn't know this before: Heat pumps, which move heat from one reservoir to another, do so using much less energy than straight electrical heating. All good, clean, fun.
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Undecided_2
Member
Electric motors are far more efficient than fossil fuel engines in converting energy. So we notice the drop in range depending on internal and external conditions.
With fossil fuel engines we don’t notice a drip of a few mile per gallon as the engines are far less efficient to begin with.
With fossil fuel engines we don’t notice a drip of a few mile per gallon as the engines are far less efficient to begin with.
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you can get an app (one is Tezlab) to help explain your driving efficiency but in the 3 weeks since we got our model Y performance I've noticed a few things. My wife gets 95% efficiency commuting to work (25 miles each way in heavy traffic, averages 40 mph or so). I get 75% efficiency driving on the freeways at california highway speeds and about 75% driving around town (short trips, AC, starting and stopping a lot) and since I live on the side of a hill, any trip that starts out going up that hill takes a big hit.
Efficiency is how many real world miles you drive relative to the # of miles range you depleted. Gentle driving behavior leads to better efficiency.
Efficiency is how many real world miles you drive relative to the # of miles range you depleted. Gentle driving behavior leads to better efficiency.
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ai4px
Wes
It is not uncommon for the car to use lots more power in the first mile or two of a trip. Take note of this when you depart on a road trip. The car may schedule you for a supercharging session initially as you roll out the driveway only to have it tell you to skip that supercharger after 25 miles. There's a lot that goes on getting the battery to temperature as well as the cabin.
Also , your air conditioner on level 2 or level 3 meaning the fan speed? Just put on automatic and control it with the thermostat setting.
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