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Newbie questions on wall connector installation

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For a 60-amp circuit:

  • #6 Romex is rated for 55-amps so you will need #4 romex, which is rated for 70-amps, for a 60-amp circuit. Romex does not require a conduit. #4 Romex is expensive.
  • Likely better to use #6 THHN which is rated for 75-amps and requires a conduit. #4 THHN is rated to 95-amps, but is expensive and overkill.
  • #10 coper is fine for the ground wire
  • As to colors, black and red for the two “hots” and white for the neutral, if you run one
Find an Electtical Supply Store and talk it over with them. Make sure they understand the 60-amp circuit must have a continuous duty rating of a least 48-amps (60-amps * 80% = 48-amps). This is why #6 romex is not acceptable.
 
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  • Likely better to use #6 THHN which is rated for 75-amps and requires a conduit. #4 THHN is rated to 95-amps, but is expensive and overkill.
$0.57 difference per foot between 6AWG THHN and 4AWG THHN. Is it THAT expensive?

Tesla Wall Connector is designed to connect up to 4AWG, and probably for a reason... if that would be overkill, they would design it up to 6AWG. Also the manual from Wall Connector says:
"If installing for maximum power, use minimum 6 AWG, 90° C-rated copper wire for conductors. NOTE: Upsize conductors if necessary."
Which you can read as "6AWG works just fine, but 4AWG would be better"
 
@Art84

“This is incorrect. White - for the neutral. But is NOT running the neutral, he is running GROUND. Colors for the ground wire usually Green or Yellow”

I did say white is for neutral and did not mention a color for the ground. Yes I agree, Green or Yellow is correct for the ground, but so is a bare copper wire.
 
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For a 60-amp circuit:

  • #6 Romex is rated for 55-amps so you will need #4 romex, which is rated for 70-amps, for a 60-amp circuit. Romex does not require a conduit. #4 Romex is expensive.
  • Likely better to use #6 THHN which is rated for 75-amps and requires a conduit. #4 THHN is rated to 95-amps, but is expensive and overkill.
  • #10 coper is fine for the ground wire
  • As to colors, black and red for the two “hots” and white for the neutral, if you run one
Find an Electtical Supply Store and talk it over with them. Make sure they understand the 60-amp circuit must have a continuous duty rating of a least 48-amps (60-amps * 80% = 48-amps). This is why #6 romex is not acceptable.
You can use #6 SEU in place of Romex and use the 75*C column. I purchased my 6-6-6 SEU by the foot from Wirenco for an in-wall section and transitioned to #6 THHN + #10 ground in 3/4” EMT. The concentric ground on the SEU can be carefully spun in a drill to create a single twisted ground wire. It passed inspection in my jurisdiction.
 
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You can use #6 SEU in place of Romex and use the 75*C column. I purchased my 6-6-6 SEU by the foot from Wirenco for an in-wall section and transitioned to #6 THHN + #10 ground in 3/4” EMT. The concentric ground on the SEU can be carefully spun in a drill to create a single twisted ground wire. It passed inspection in my jurisdiction.
Why you didn't make all length with #6 THHN? So you mix aluminum and copper in the circuit...
 
Why you didn't make all length with #6 THHN? So you mix aluminum and copper in the circuit...
I used copper wire throughout- aluminum #6 SEU doesn’t have the proper ratings and can’t be terminated in the wall connector. The in-wall section is from a junction box above the wall connector into the back of the unit to avoid vertical surface conduit.

This is the product I used.

As for using THHN in the wall, it would’ve been a pain to fish conduit through an insulated space and maintain required bend radius etc. THHN can’t be installed free-floating in a wall per NEC requirements.
 
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I used copper wire throughout- aluminum #6 SEU doesn’t have the proper ratings and can’t be terminated in the wall connector. The in-wall section is from a junction box above the wall connector into the back of the unit to avoid vertical surface conduit.

This is the product I used.
You could use THHN for in-wall installation as well. A conduit is not required if the wire is not exposed to potential mechanical damage. So when it's in-wall, it's definitely not exposed.
 
A conduit is not required if the wire is not exposed to potential mechanical damage.

Not my understanding. Everything, expect Romex, requires “conduit” from the breaker box to the device. And Romex requires conduit on exposed walls when less than about 7’ from the ground.

“NEC 300.3(A) prohibits THHN (or any other type of single wire save for a few exceptions such as single conductor MI and SE/USE, overhead wires, or an EGC) from being run outside some sort of raceway (conduit, surface raceway, cable tray, etc).
 
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Not my understanding. Everything, expect Romex, requires “conduit” from the breaker box to the device. And Romex requires conduit on exposed walls when less than about 7’ from the ground.

“NEC 300.3(A) prohibits THHN (or any other type of single wire save for a few exceptions such as single conductor MI and SE/USE, overhead wires, or an EGC) from being run outside some sort of raceway (conduit, surface raceway, cable tray, etc).
Looks like you are correct. According to the code, THHN cable should be installed in any "cable raceway" like a conduit. I have googled about it, and didn't why any explanation on WHY conduit should be used even if installed in the wall? I understand when cable is installed on exposed are, like outside of the wall, along the wall, along the ceiling, or outside the building. Because cable can be accidentally damaged or damaged by the sun/water/liquids, so conduit protects the cable from that. But when inside the wall, what's the purpose of the conduit? The only kind of explanation I found, is that if use THHN cable on the attic, it can be damaged by rodents, and the conduit will protect the cable from that. But c'mon, I look at my attic, and ALL cable wiring in my house on attic made without conduits at all, this house stays like that for 22 years...

So, do you maybe know the reason of using conduit if THHN is installed in the wall?
 
Piggybacking on this, I just replaced my 18’ WC with a 24’ model. It was easy to change the face plate. But I can’t commission it, but I can’t get it to broadcast its Wi-Fi signal. I have cycled the breaker and have held the wand button.

luckily by default it charges at 48 amps so at least I can charge.

Any suggestions?
 
Piggybacking on this, I just replaced my 18’ WC with a 24’ model. It was easy to change the face plate. But I can’t commission it, but I can’t get it to broadcast its Wi-Fi signal. I have cycled the breaker and have held the wand button.

luckily by default it charges at 48 amps so at least I can charge.

Any suggestions?
Check the firmware version. And try to update it manually: Troubleshooting a Gen 3 Wall Connector