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Newbie switching from ICE to EV

Discussion in 'Model 3: Driving Dynamics' started by Mousecop, May 17, 2020.

  1. Mousecop

    Mousecop Member

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    Hi everyone, I hope you guys take it easy on me but I’m looking for real world information on a M3. I had a M3P ordered but changed it to the LR AWD. What are the real upsides/downsides between the 2 versions i.e. range, comfort, resale value, etc. I won’t be going to any track days but the quickness of the M3P is appealing over the LR AWD as in someone deciding between a Merc C-Class to the AMG C-Class. I hear everyone say they love to be able to smash the accelerator and get that neck snapping thrust but does that get old? Is it worth sacrificing that for range? I’m spoiled currently because I have a vehicle with power on tap close to 600hp so it is nice to have for getting on the freeway or trying to maneuver around slow drivers. Current time for delivery is 5-7 weeks for me. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
     
    • Informative x 1
  2. GSP

    GSP Member

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    @Mousecop,

    I have a LR RWD and it is plenty quick enough for me, better than most of the ICE cars from the past 60 years that I have driven. They ranged from 80 to 435 hp. My LR RWD does not launch from a dead stop super fast, but it gets around cars super quick when passing (30-80 mph), and it handles like a dream.

    The AWD Model 3 will launch much quicker than mine, and that should be very satisfying for most people. However, since you are used to a 600 hp car, I recommend you get the Performance Model. Another option is the “stealth performance” model, which does not have the upgraded breaker or rear spoiler, and costs a bit less.

    Good Luck with your decision,

    GSP
     
    • Like x 1
  3. 75Shappyt

    75Shappyt Member

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    no matter how your drive is, range is King!
     
    • Like x 2
  4. house9

    house9 Supporting Member

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    I think Performance has slightly different motors and software tweaks (including track mode) to make it go faster, better brakes and larger wheels. Otherwise same vehicle as the LR AWD.

    LR AWD is plenty fast for me, 18 inch wheels should get better range and less chance of flatting. The instant torque on all of the M3 is ridiculous, getting on freeway is not going to be an issue.

    The main thing to be aware of with all EV is battery charge and range. The range quoted is EPA range which means in perfect conditions that is the range you will get, i.e. 70 degree day driving 65 mph on flat road with no wind resistance.

    Unless you are on a road trip you won't be charging to 100% of battery capacity, recommended is 80-90%, you also don't want to go below 20% unless you are on a road trip. This is all to do with battery longevity and battery chemistry. So if you stayed in the 20-80% range with a car that had 300 mile range you are working with more like 180-200 available miles (less in cold weather), but for daily use this is often a non-issue and if you have long commute you can charge to 95%+ before leaving.

    On road trips you should start with 100% from home charge and it is ok to go to a low charge if needed to reach the next supercharger. The batteries can accept charge faster when they are low. The rule of thumb is low and high charge are not good for long term battery life, but as long as you don't leave the battery at a low charge it will be fine, likewise you want to start driving soon after charging to 95%+.

    @GSP mentioned “stealth performance” model, which I believe has 18inch wheels instead of the larger ones that come with Performance. Not sure but I think wheel size might be the main reason for less range on Performance? Telsa now offers a $2,000 software upgrade for LR AWD which drops the 0-60 by another 1/2 second which can be purchased anytime.
     
  5. drtimhill

    drtimhill Member

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    I have an LR AWD with boost option and it's FAST .. frankly you get 90% of the M3P (I've driven both) when you are on city streets for less $$, but you get the better range, better resale (LR AWD is sweet spot imho) and lower insurance. Yes, the M3P is far better on track, but if you're not going to do that then the LR AWD has so much else going for it. And you will still smoke most all ICE cars.
     
    • Like x 3
  6. Mousecop

    Mousecop Member

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    I was looking into the stealth model but unfortunately Tesla updated their ordering page and now the 20” rims and brakes, etc are standard for the Performance model. I was thinking of calling my advisor but I’m seeing that they will still charge you the same price to downgrade the wheel size and stuff. Living in Northern California I don’t have to deal with very many road issues but a 20” wheel with little rubber and the replacement cost is worrisome in the rare event. My worry is remorse and because of the current issues I can’t test drive.
     
  7. GSP

    GSP Member

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    @Mousecop,

    I think the stealth performance is only available off menu. You have to call Tesla and ask if they are available or not.

    Sounds like the 20” wheels will work for you. If not, you could buy 19” aftermarket and sell your factory 20s. I think there even is one aftermarket 18” wheel that will clear the upgraded performance brakes if you want the best range, and chuck hole resistance, possible.

    GSP
     
  8. yerEVan

    yerEVan Member

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    OP. Some of the info here is not totally accurate. From what you described I would get an AWD with the $2k performance boost. I have a stealth 2018 and a friend with the perf boost. I would personally get a stealth because of track mode and slightly faster of the line. But his AWD with 2k boost is plenty fast.
     
  9. Mousecop

    Mousecop Member

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    Thanks for all the advice. I reached out to my advisor in hopes of finding a stealth but she said 6 months ago there were a few available but nothing as of now as they can’t order them off the menu. It’s a first come first serve basis she said. So I changed my order back to the performance M3 and informed her that if a stealth comes up before my delivery that I’ll take that instead. If nothing comes available then I’ll just sell the 20” factory wheels and swap to something smaller to help ease the range. I usually drive around 70-75 and mostly flat roads, just want the jaw dropping acceleration for when I’m having a bad day just like my TT V8 does for me now.
     
  10. SSedan

    SSedan Active Member

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    I would really go drive one.
    Electric power delivery is so different from ICE you might find yourself happy with a lower hp number.

    I went from a 415hp V8 ICE in a 4000lbs car to a 416hp Electric in a 4600lbs car and the electric is quicker at legal speeds despite the extra weight.
     
    • Like x 2
  11. Mousecop

    Mousecop Member

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    Which M3 did you end up with? I’ll be coming from an AMG Merc so it’s brutal power on tap especially in sport+
     
  12. Uncle Paul

    Uncle Paul Well-Known Member

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    Prior to my Tesla I daily drove a 800 hp Viper. Amazing thing is that for normal manouvering through traffic the Tesla is so much faster. It is the quicker throttle response and not waiting for the Turbo to spool up that makes it such a remarkable street car.

    When you see an opening ahead it only takes a quick stab at the throttle and you are there.
     
  13. dsgerbc

    dsgerbc Member

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    Change it back to Performance asap. Thank me later.
     
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  14. DBV1

    DBV1 Member

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    Nice discussion. I am also a potential new owner and going through the similar decision process.

    What is the point of having a battery not charging to 100% if it is able too? How do you stop it from not charging to 100%? Can you tell the Tesla to stop charging at 80%? It just makes no sense to me to not charge to 100% and if the battery performs better charging to 80%, why not make the max charge? Sorry if dumb question.
     
  15. destructure00

    destructure00 Active Member

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    It absolutely does not.
     
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  16. destructure00

    destructure00 Active Member

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    You set the charge limit either from the app or from the car.

    I charge to 90% nightly. Only go to 100% when I'm road tripping and need the extra range.

    Screenshot_20200517-164937.png
     
    • Like x 1
  17. Msjulie

    Msjulie Active Member

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    All (most) EVs are quick. It never gets old, well it shouldn't but you do adapt so if you like that kind of thing get the fastest one you can :)
     
    • Like x 1
  18. house9

    house9 Supporting Member

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    The battery/car do not perform better at lower charges.

    Batteries degrade over time, i.e. when you buy a vehicle with 320 mile range it will naturally lose some of that range, I think it is like 5-10% in the first few years? So your range will probably be more like 290 after awhile. The theory is if you keep the charge at 100% for long periods of time that degradation will increase, i.e. you could lose more percentage quicker or maybe you end up with 20% degradation instead of only 10.

    There is nothing wrong with charging to 100% and then getting in the car and driving, you just don’t want to leave it sitting at that percentage for long periods of time. Another thing to note, as the battery gets closer to being full the speed at which it takes on charge gets way slower.

    This all has to do with battery chemistry, which I know very little about. Search around these forums there are a ton of smart people who have explained this stuff in-depth.

    Also, the degradation seems to be highly variable between cars and different peoples charging habits. If the degradation is really bad Tesla warranty should replace the battery.

    Telsa battery warranty:

    • Model 3 and Model Y Standard or Standard Range Plus - 8 years or 100,000 miles, whichever comes first, with minimum 70% retention of Battery capacity over the warranty period. [x]
    [x] Vehicle Warranty
     
  19. SSedan

    SSedan Active Member

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    I traded a 2015 Chevy Sports Sedan in on a 2014 model S P85.
    The SS is a unicorn for those unfamiliar it was mechanically a Camaro but in a Impala/Malibu-ish 4dr. Sedan body. The Tesla is so much more responsive and has the torque and response I always wanted from modified V8s.
     
  20. BetterSlowDown

    Joined:
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    Halfway between Denver and Boulder
    If you can find a stealth, I'd go with that. I was really stubborn held out until I could find one - used, 6700 miles. I've got 2 other flashy glitzy fast vehicles (600hp Shelby GT500 and AMG GLA45 with all appearance packages), and just am so tired of the painted-caliper, big-wheel-tiny-tire look. I put 17's on my Shelby with big sticky Mickey Thompsons and I prefer driving my AMG in the winter with my 18" setup as opposed to my summer 20's. I'm totally in the minority as I know most people here like the big-wheel rubberband setup.

    My 600HP Shelby and my stealth Model 3 both run 11.5x at Bandimere (my dragstrip, 5860' elevation), but I can tell you that my Model 3 is actually far quicker most the time, even comparing to that cammed super-charged V8. Throttle-response is superior and there is no such thing as having to downshift to get into the powerband, etc. It's just always instantly ready to go. There is no launch mode either, which I love. In my AMG, I have to switch the dial to race mode, then both paddles up, and 2 more things that I usually forget... and then it's only active for 3 seconds or so before it cancels itself.

    EDIT: Sorry, almost forgot. Bottom line, whether Performance or stealth, get a fast Model 3!
     

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