thats the method I've always used whenever I installed aftermarket audio systems. I don't see why this would be any different. Coat hanger +1
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thats the method I've always used whenever I installed aftermarket audio systems. I don't see why this would be any different. Coat hanger +1
Laumb
smrtass.
I'm getting ready to install my BlackVue using this a fuse tap and running wire from the the frunk. Just wanted to confirm with you that this particular fuse in not switched? (i.e. there is constant 12V power on this fuse regardless of if the car is turned on or not? I get that the light in the glove compartment is not always on
Did you figure out how to do it - and did you do it yet?
If so I could come by one day and get an explanation (and take step by step pics for all others.).
If not we need to figure this out soon.
Johan
Ex got M3 in the divorce, waiting for EU Model Y!
Did you figure out how to do it - and did you do it yet?
If so I could come by one day and get an explanation (and take step by step pics for all others.).
If not we need to figure this out soon.
My last needed components are due to arrive today from ELFA via mail. I had to find a tap-a-fuse for mini fuses that I could use. I'm using this one, hope it fits:
Bilsikringsholder miniOTO/FK1/mini | Elfa Distrelec
I will take pictures and post my install process, hopefully successfull
Mystery box...
The above is true for the earlier cars. Later Tesla started using this connector for something. In our car the connector goes into a flat long black box mounted lengthwise inside the microphone grill.
1. What is this black box?
2. Can I unplug it and tap into the plug to get power to the dash cam - then just plug it back in (now with extra wires in place feeding the dash cam)?
Hope someone knows...
A.
The above is true for the earlier cars. Later Tesla started using this connector for something. In our car the connector goes into a flat long black box mounted lengthwise inside the microphone grill.
1. What is this black box?
2. Can I unplug it and tap into the plug to get power to the dash cam - then just plug it back in (now with extra wires in place feeding the dash cam)?
Hope someone knows...
A.
JPP
Active Member
No direct knowledge about what the black box is attached under your microphone grille (?related to the security/motion detector system in EU builds?), but if you want, maybe get a voltmeter, then disconnect the flat black connector and see if you have 12V at the terminals (both with your S powered off and booted up). For my Blackvue install, I popped open the connector, and carefully laid the camera's black & white wires onto the appropriate terminals (was the 2 center terminals on the 4-pin connector), then snapped closed the connector. Thus I had 12V power (always on), but preserved the connector. My build does not have anything attached to the connector--some owners have speculated that at one time it was meant to be used for lighted vanity mirrors on the sun visors.
Dashcam installed
I unplugged and measured. I had 13,7V between number 1 and 3 terminals on the 4-pin connector. I laid my own two wires (from the camera) onto these terminals and closed the 4-pin connector. I used the original power cable that came with the 550 Blackvue. Just snipped off the 12-V jack and made the wire shorter and moved the original fuse closer to the power plug. This way I was able to hide everything up in the roof inside the microphone grille.
Nobody has been able to tell for sure what the box is. Majority speculate that this is for the added security package with motion detectors inside the cabin and tilt/lift sensors on the car itself.
I unplugged and measured. I had 13,7V between number 1 and 3 terminals on the 4-pin connector. I laid my own two wires (from the camera) onto these terminals and closed the 4-pin connector. I used the original power cable that came with the 550 Blackvue. Just snipped off the 12-V jack and made the wire shorter and moved the original fuse closer to the power plug. This way I was able to hide everything up in the roof inside the microphone grille.
Nobody has been able to tell for sure what the box is. Majority speculate that this is for the added security package with motion detectors inside the cabin and tilt/lift sensors on the car itself.
gelden
Well-Known Member
I also have a car without the unused 12v plug above the center roof panel. I bought a dashcam and investigated where to get the constant 12v from. I discovered that the LED front reading lights are always powered, even after leaving the car or after manually switching the car power off. This seemed like the easiest source for constant 12v power as it is in the right place (close to camera).
I removed the center grille that holds the microphones (no alarm, otherwise it might also hold the sensors) and unplugged the two connectors. I was then able to feel the cable going in to the (right) reading light. After some pulling and wiggling, i was able to retrieve the cable into sight and carefully peeled off the black outer lining. It revealed three wires (red/white, black, black/white). I tested the power, and there is a constant 12v between the red/white and black/white cable (even after powering off the car).
I'll use that for powering my dashcam. Still waiting for it to arrive from China, so will post if it worked after it arrives.
I removed the center grille that holds the microphones (no alarm, otherwise it might also hold the sensors) and unplugged the two connectors. I was then able to feel the cable going in to the (right) reading light. After some pulling and wiggling, i was able to retrieve the cable into sight and carefully peeled off the black outer lining. It revealed three wires (red/white, black, black/white). I tested the power, and there is a constant 12v between the red/white and black/white cable (even after powering off the car).
I'll use that for powering my dashcam. Still waiting for it to arrive from China, so will post if it worked after it arrives.
gelden
Well-Known Member
Akikiki
A'-Lo-HA ! y'all
I installed the Blackvue 550. My VIN, P208xx - Sep '13, was not supposed to have 12 constant in the speaker grill, but it did. There was an extra 4 pin with 3 pin used connector. I ordered a new power pigtail off Amazon and waited for it to arrive versus cut the Blackvue power cable. After I had it all working, I went back to Amazon and ordered a single channel remote controlled on/off switch. I had to remove it from its little black box case to gain the space, but I rewired the 550 with fuses on both sides of the on/off switch so I can turn the 550 on and off. It was a tight fit but everything went in behind the speaker grill. Pleased with out it came out too.
Xenoilphobe
Well-Known Member
Given that there are 10 circuits with 30 and 40 amp fuses on them in the diagram, I am going to assume that I can draw 30 amps from the battery for a half hour at a stretch without damaging things. Does that make sense? I want to use the 12V circuit to charge some LiPo batteries for model airplanes.
Transcend DrivePro 200 DashCam Install
Just had a look on my recent MS60 (EU version, VIN 732XX) delivered on 29th March 2015. It has a 3 pin connector under the 'mic grille' taped to the flap and not connected to anything with a permanent 12V (12.xV when car is off, 14.xV when car is on) on one pin and ~10V on the other... I have used a small 3 way 'latching pin header' to mate with the connector which can be bought in most electronics shops or off ebay. Just do a search for 'latching pin header' and you will find them (perhaps its a european reference - try ebay.co.uk if ebay.com fails).
Interestingly, I managed to blow the fuse supplying this connector when I was fiddling about with a voltmeter. I discovered the fuse that blew was No 50 'Siren, intrusion, tilt sensor', 5A. Pinched the glove box one whilst I get a replacement.
I used a Transcend DrivePro 200 with WiFi dashcam and 16Gb micro SD - they are very reasonably priced at ~UK£85. You can use a smartphone app to access it remotely or use the built-in screen. I would rather not have the camera running all the time but I had the camera anyway. Maybe I'll upgrade it at Christmas! It uses about 180mA with the screen off. It runs off 5V via a mini USB connector which comes with a cigarette lighter plug DC/DC converter.
Installing - I dissembled the plug by unscrewing the knurled ring 'A' and prised apart the 2 halves of the plug, extracted the PCB, desoldered the cables and plug connectors, shortened the mini USB cable to about a foot, soldered the new cables on and encased the PCB in some clear shrink wrap (20mm internal diameter - I had to shorten the leads of the LED by 3mm or so, so get some 25mm if you can find it that big). Having that connector up there makes this job a hundred times easier.
Just had a look on my recent MS60 (EU version, VIN 732XX) delivered on 29th March 2015. It has a 3 pin connector under the 'mic grille' taped to the flap and not connected to anything with a permanent 12V (12.xV when car is off, 14.xV when car is on) on one pin and ~10V on the other... I have used a small 3 way 'latching pin header' to mate with the connector which can be bought in most electronics shops or off ebay. Just do a search for 'latching pin header' and you will find them (perhaps its a european reference - try ebay.co.uk if ebay.com fails).
Interestingly, I managed to blow the fuse supplying this connector when I was fiddling about with a voltmeter. I discovered the fuse that blew was No 50 'Siren, intrusion, tilt sensor', 5A. Pinched the glove box one whilst I get a replacement.
I used a Transcend DrivePro 200 with WiFi dashcam and 16Gb micro SD - they are very reasonably priced at ~UK£85. You can use a smartphone app to access it remotely or use the built-in screen. I would rather not have the camera running all the time but I had the camera anyway. Maybe I'll upgrade it at Christmas! It uses about 180mA with the screen off. It runs off 5V via a mini USB connector which comes with a cigarette lighter plug DC/DC converter.
Installing - I dissembled the plug by unscrewing the knurled ring 'A' and prised apart the 2 halves of the plug, extracted the PCB, desoldered the cables and plug connectors, shortened the mini USB cable to about a foot, soldered the new cables on and encased the PCB in some clear shrink wrap (20mm internal diameter - I had to shorten the leads of the LED by 3mm or so, so get some 25mm if you can find it that big). Having that connector up there makes this job a hundred times easier.
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mknox
Well-Known Member
That's interesting because my early 2013 car has the same connector which I am told was to accommodate visors with illuminated vanity mirrors. When Tesla scrapped the idea of retrofitting the visors, cars stopped coming with this connector. Curious as to why it's turning up again on EU cars.
Can you post a link to the connector you reference? I've been trying to find something that would mate with the dongle so I can wire my dash cam to it.
Can you post a link to the connector you reference? I've been trying to find something that would mate with the dongle so I can wire my dash cam to it.
It's not just EU cars. My December P85D has it too. It came back at some point in 2014, I believe even before autopilot.
mesalum
Member
martinwinlow, I found the connector "3 way latching pin header" at Fry's Electronics. How did you connect the camera side 2 wires? The ground and 12+V wires? They are very short. Thanks.
Nosken
Active Member
Thanks for posting this. I was able to get the 3 Pin connector you mentioned at Frys. 3 Pin Wafer Pin to Pin Spacing, 2.54mm Qty 10. Here is a link to the part FRYS.comPAN
HankLloydRight
No Roads
Instead of running wires through the firewall and tapping the fuse box, another option is to use the OBDII port in the drivers footwell area. There are several dashcam threads on this, Amazon has several OBDII connectors that work.
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