SomeJoe7777
Marginally-Known Member
All Model S's, whether coil or air, RWD or AWD, 19" or 21", square or staggered, all have different rear camber than front camber.
Measuring tread depths with a tread depth gauge gives you a good idea of how the tires are wearing, but not a complete picture. The camber differences will wear the outside shoulder blocks of the tires in the front and rear differently, and it will take a long time for that difference to show up in the tread measurements, which are not on the shoulder blocks. After 5K - 10K miles, your tread measurements will still show everything is wearing evenly, when there's actually 1.5-2mm less tread on the rear tires' shoulder blocks than the front tires.
Furthermore, tire internals will get used to flexing a certain way. Nylon and steel belts as well as the rubber start to make noise after 5K - 10K miles due to the continuous flexing the same way. Rotating the tires in a rearward-cross pattern flips the rotation direction of 2 tires each time you rotate, which keeps the noise levels low.
Even if your tires are wearing dead even by tread measurements, rotating them every 5K miles will maximize their life and minimize their noise, especially late in the tire's life. If you haven't rotated them, the last 2mm of usable tread is going to be very noisy.
Note that you cannot rotate in a rearward-cross pattern with staggered setup (typically on P models with 21" wheels -- they use 245/35R21 on the front axle and 265/35R21 on the rear axle). For those tires, you will have to rotate using a same-axle swap (exchange LF and RF, and then exchange LR and RR).
Note also that you cannot rotate in a rearward-cross pattern if you have aftermarket tires that use a directional tread. This would be unusual, but I mention it here to be complete. If you happen to have such tires (none of the Tesla OEM tires fall into this category), then rotate using a same-side swap (exchange LF and LR, and then exchange RF and RR).
For everyone else, use rearward cross: LF -> RR -> RF -> LR -> LF.
Measuring tread depths with a tread depth gauge gives you a good idea of how the tires are wearing, but not a complete picture. The camber differences will wear the outside shoulder blocks of the tires in the front and rear differently, and it will take a long time for that difference to show up in the tread measurements, which are not on the shoulder blocks. After 5K - 10K miles, your tread measurements will still show everything is wearing evenly, when there's actually 1.5-2mm less tread on the rear tires' shoulder blocks than the front tires.
Furthermore, tire internals will get used to flexing a certain way. Nylon and steel belts as well as the rubber start to make noise after 5K - 10K miles due to the continuous flexing the same way. Rotating the tires in a rearward-cross pattern flips the rotation direction of 2 tires each time you rotate, which keeps the noise levels low.
Even if your tires are wearing dead even by tread measurements, rotating them every 5K miles will maximize their life and minimize their noise, especially late in the tire's life. If you haven't rotated them, the last 2mm of usable tread is going to be very noisy.
Note that you cannot rotate in a rearward-cross pattern with staggered setup (typically on P models with 21" wheels -- they use 245/35R21 on the front axle and 265/35R21 on the rear axle). For those tires, you will have to rotate using a same-axle swap (exchange LF and RF, and then exchange LR and RR).
Note also that you cannot rotate in a rearward-cross pattern if you have aftermarket tires that use a directional tread. This would be unusual, but I mention it here to be complete. If you happen to have such tires (none of the Tesla OEM tires fall into this category), then rotate using a same-side swap (exchange LF and LR, and then exchange RF and RR).
For everyone else, use rearward cross: LF -> RR -> RF -> LR -> LF.