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Noob question on Opticoat , XPel ultimate and "Nanolex?"

Discussion in 'Model S: Interior & Exterior' started by hanl1, Oct 28, 2015.

  1. hanl1

    hanl1 Member

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    So I decided to give my car some protection and people here seem to recommend Opticoat and possibly Xpel Ultimate as well. Talked to a local shop and got a quote of around $1300 for Opticoat and $3000 for Xpel. First of all, does the price sounds reasonable? Am I possibly getting ripped off here? As a newbie $3000 for a layer of film sounds a little too much

    The shop also recommended something called Nanolex, and said it is a better product than Opticoat. But after a little research it seems that they are quite different products and shouldn't really be compared?

    Any advice please?:confused: I drive a 1-month old Midnight Metallic Silver 85D
     
  2. JenniferQ

    JenniferQ Member

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    I have a quote for $495 for Opti-Coat Pro. Opti-Coat Pro PLUS is $695. I had Xpel done on the whole front of the car - hood, fenders, bumper, lights, and all door handles (fingerprints bug me) and the trunk latch area that people say takes a beating for $1269. Basically had to put the film on and now it goes to the other shop for OptiCoat. And then there was the window tinting. This car is "special."
     
  3. vitaliy

    vitaliy Member

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    I can't understand this "paint protection" trend everyone seems interested in... Wouldn't $3,000 be enough to cover front of the car repainted twice? And why would paint need any protection after all...
     
  4. msnow

    msnow Active Member

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    I haven't done any of those things yet but will soon. One question; based on what I've read here I thought the coating comes first and then the film (Xpel), no?
     
  5. DMC-Orangeville

    DMC-Orangeville 85D and John Deere 5100E

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    #5 DMC-Orangeville, Oct 28, 2015
    Last edited: Oct 28, 2015
    Xpel will protect your paint from stones, light scratches etc. Some folks have posted some great stories about keying and other vandalous acts being prevented. It's self-healing, too. A whole car at $3000 sounds about right. (I got the hood, front and front fenders done for about $1200 $ CDN =$900 US)


    Opticoat and CQuartz are finish "sealants/coatings". They keep the paint shiny. Both are good, and use the same active hardening compound. They won't protect you from stone chips, but will make your car shiny and rain repellent. I'm not familiar with Nanolex. BTW, I paid about $1200 ($CDN = $900 US) for Opticoat on the whole car, which included about $250 for paint correction.

    - - - Updated - - -

    XPel first, then coating:biggrin:
     
  6. msnow

    msnow Active Member

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    Thanks, glad I asked. [emoji3]
     
  7. JenniferQ

    JenniferQ Member

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    I couldn't either and I have a Ferrari that I never thought about putting it on. But then the Ferrari wasn't a DD.

    This paint just seems "different." Maybe it's "environmentally sound"? Maybe it's the aluminum it's on? Not sure, but it definitely is more finicky than any other paint I've seen on many high-end cars.

    But, it is your choice and you will choose wisely, I'm sure, whatever you do.

    I'm still not sure I like the "wrap," but when I saw my daughter rubbing the dust into my Ferrari today I was happy I had the wrap on the Tesla. And then promptly cautioned her about any further dirt rubbing in the future!
     
  8. SW2Fiddler

    SW2Fiddler Bannd Member

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    A suspicious mind would wonder if that's simply recommended by the installers, since replacing the film means also re-doing the coating.
    Is there a reason for putting film next to paint and coating on that? Does the film stick better that way?
     
  9. JenniferQ

    JenniferQ Member

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    And I was told to replace the film every 5 years even though it's warranted for 7. :crying:
     
  10. DMC-Orangeville

    DMC-Orangeville 85D and John Deere 5100E

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    I was told that a) the XPel (film) won't stick as well to the Opticoat (coating), rather than paint, and b) - the finish will be consistent with an overall covering of Opticoat. Plus Opticoat is shinier than XPel.

    Also - both products carry a 5 year warrantee, and both suggest that they should last longer than that.
     
  11. Jean-Claude

    Jean-Claude Local Vendor - Southeast

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    You're no doubt speaking with Phil.

    Phil will take care of you and your car. I know the man and he is very ethical in how he takes care of his clients and strives for as close to perfection as he can get. Nanolex is superior to OCP imho. Phil has installed just about every coating available in the US market. He will not steer you wrong.

    On the topic of price. These services are not commodities. They are skill-based crafts where not everyone's abilities are equal and not everyone is honest in how they deal with their clients. The recipe for success is to fine the most qualified person you can afford(rather, feel comfortable spending money on) and use them.
     
    • Like x 1
  12. Rockster

    Rockster Active Member

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    XPEL or Suntek in this area ranges from $4000 to $7000.
     
  13. shokunin

    shokunin P85 & S40

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    As for price, $1300 seems high, but then again it all depends on the condition of the paint. Even 1-day old from the factory, my S had swirls and spiders from Tesla's own detailing department. A minor paint correction was needed before even applying Opti-Coat. Others may quote prices to just apply the Opti-Coat without knowing whether or not your paint needs correction.
     
  14. linuxkidd

    linuxkidd Member

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    Having my entire MS90D covered with Nano-Fusion PPF, and every window tinted with ceramic tint. Total bill just over $6k with a discount for being referred from Tesla.

    This is a special car (at last for me), so I want alum the protection I can get.

    LK
     
  15. Rafik

    Rafik Member

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    XPel Ultimate is the industry standard - best film on the market right now. $3000 for the whole car is actually on the cheaper side. Most respectable shops charge closer to 6k for a full car, but the quality shows in the workmanship. There is also XPel stealth, which is satin flavored variety of the XPel Ultimate. Both have self healing properties. The stealth wrap is a little more expensive per foot and a little more difficult to apply, thus will typically cost a little more to have applied. If you get Opticoat Pro or another nano coating, you want the wrap put on the car first, then the coating applied over the wrap. Coating the car first can inhibit the wrap from properly adhering.

    I had XPel Stealth wrapped on my car followed Opticoat Pro. Pics Here: http://imgur.com/a/1xMg0
     
  16. CHG-ON

    CHG-ON Still in love after all these miles

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    Those prices sound outrageously low. I wish I lived where you do. I live in the SF Bay Area and I got prices in the 8-10K to wrap alone. Watch a few videos on YouTube about what goes into wrapping by a real pro. It's super involved and takes a lot of time to do perfectly. And if not done perfectly, it looks like crap. Don't skimp. Get a lot of references!

    The value of a wrap, as mentioned earlier: protection from chips. A good material is incredibly strong and resilient. Shockingly so.

    Opti Coat goes on top, not underneath the wrap. That's very important. You want the car polished to perfection before the wrap. That is critical. When I had mine properly polished, it took a full 1.5 days to do (=$$$). Polish is everything because all imperfections will show through, whether you wrap or not. I actually did not wrap because after buying the car, I simply wasn't willing to drop another 8+K on the car. Would have loved to do it. But I have other things that I have to spend on. So far so good. No chips and the finish is essentially perfect after an entire year of driving.

    But once wrapped, the paint is completely protected. Opti Coat's, or any other nano finish's, value is shine and ease of cleaning, since dirt just seems to fall off of it. I used CQuartz Finest on my car, as opposed to Opti Coat, and it is amazing. Personal choice. It is known for a better "feel" than Opti Coat, which I wanted: silky smooth.

    Good luck!
     
    • Like x 1
  17. tomas

    tomas Traded in 9 rep bars for M3, used to be somebody!

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    3 years of ownership, never had paint protection on a prior car... here's what I've experienced and concluded:
    1) Car arrived November 2012. Factory installed paint protection on front and around wheel wells (no longer an option). Beautiful! Don't really like the line of the film across hood, but it's OK.
    2) Fall 2013. At a charity event in a posh suburb. My car, along with many others, was egged. 5 indelible marks. Tried everything. Eventually several layers of Dr. Colorchip touch up looked reasonable, but not perfect. Wished I had film.
    3) Spring 2014. Brushed front fender (plastic part) across a boulder landscaping wall. Looked horrible! Made appointments to repair/repaint. On a lark, decided to peel off film to see how much of damage was film, how much paint. Voila, it was all scratched up film. I became an immediate zealot. So:
    4) Fall 2014. Had paint correction and Suntek applied on entire car. About $4,500. Looked great, but wish I had done earlier, as there were some touched up chips/scratches that still show through a bit. Installer said no need to Opticoat over that (more later).
    5) Spring 2015. Weird year for trees in midwest. LOTS of sap. I park under one at my WI house. Sap stains all over Suntek. Won't wash off. Visited local detailer, who gave me some light abrasive (as recommended by Suntek). With some elbow grease, all came out. But I got a cover so no recurrence. Detailer strongly recommended Opticoat over the film. Said "you need film to protect the paint, and polish or coating to protect the film." Yikes!
    6) Moving the car to California. Will need to waterless wash from now on. All these experiences tell me: Opticoat it! So I did. But it had to have a light polish before Opticoat, so cost was $900.

    What I learned: you do not HAVE TO do anything. But if, like me, you plan to keep the car for at least 8 years and want it looking great... and you want to minimize impact of the inevitable chips, dings, etc. And reduce the probability of needing paint (new paint is always a problem... difficult and expensive to get right). Immediately as possible after delivery: paint correction, full wrap (suntek or xpel), opticoat. Costs a bit, but in the long run well worth it if you can afford. If you cannot afford, then suggest you consider at least paint correction and opticoat. Will be cheaper than full wax twice a year, and look better.
     
    • Like x 2
  18. hanl1

    hanl1 Member

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    Thanks for all the advice guys. Very helpful. Sounds like I SHOULD get both Xpel and Opticoat, given that I do plan to keep the car for many years. The price is not cheap but looks like this is what the market is like. I will seriously think about it.
     
  19. XPEL

    XPEL Vendor

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    XPEL ULTIMATE carries a 10 year warranty including protection from yellowing, staining, cracking, blistering and delaminating...if any of that does happen; both film and labor are paid for to remove and replace the film.

    Definitely, always XPEL first then Opti-Coat (if you wish to use a coating)

    The low surface energy of paint sealant products such as OptiCoat, Cquartz, etc can cause adhesion problems both during installation and over the life of the product. So best practice is XPEL first then coating.

    - - - Updated - - -

    How much of the car are you having done for 3k?
     
  20. hanl1

    hanl1 Member

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    full hood, full fenders, headlights, mirrors, front bumper, a pillars, full rockers, and full rear bumper
     

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