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Noob questions about charging on the old dryer outlet

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In preparation of delivery for my MS...I have thought about using an existing dryer outlet (First screenshot). I am completely ignorant of what is required for installation but was wondering if I can get by with this old dryer outlet.

Currently, there is no power running through it since its disconnected (blue panel second screenshot) but I am sure its a 220v outlet. It kind of looks like this NEMA 10-30 but upside down (screenshot 3). Also I found that it might require a mobile connector adapter for the Model S according to this site link Model S/X/3 Gen 2 NEMA Adapters.

A few easy questions...

So with this info does the Tesla already come with mobile adapters for these kinds of outlets or do I need to buy one using the link above.

Should I know what the difference is between second generation mobile connector and first generation, I am not even sure what generation the new model s are in...

So if I reconnect the 220v outlet and buy the NEMA 10-30 adapter (assuming tesla doesnt already include it in the car) is that really all there is to it and I can plug in and charge?

Lastly, do I need to be cautious about whether the NEMA 10-30 should be a grounded circuit or not I think for a NEMA 14-50 they are required but I am not sure about this one.

Thank for your thoughts I am expecting production to be completed sometime this week and appreciate the feedback!


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It's pretty much that simple. I'd take the time to check the connections inside the receptacle and at the circuit breaker to make sure they look good, and monitor the first time you use it to make sure there's no undue heating. A 10-30 is essentially an ungrounded circuit, having two hots and neutral. The Tesla 10-30 adapter makes the assumption that it's the only outlet on the circuit and it's wired directly to the main panel where neutral and ground are bonded, and it's therefore OK to repurpose the neutral as a ground.
 
Yes it is that simple with three minor caveats. One make sure the outlet works, two order the extra adapter as that is not what comes standard and three know you are limited to to 22 amps charging or about 20 miles per hour. Assuming your car is home 10 hours a night it is doable.
 
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If you are getting a new Model S, it should come with a Gen 2 MC so you'd need the 10-30 adapter available at the link you posted. The adapter will allow you to charge at 24 amps.

If you are getting an older CPO Model S (from before mid-December 2017), then you might get the Gen 1 MC.

The Gen 1 MC came in a round bag whereas the Gen 2 MC comes in a square bag.
 
Is that a Zinsco panel??? Major fire hazard. Find an electrician STAT to replace the panel. Don't fool with it.
Agreed! Good catch, JPP. Do this regardless of the car charging. Also, since this is a sub-panel, make sure the electrician checks the up-stream panel(s) too.

When I went to add a 14-50 for my charging needs, I called an electrician to give me an estimate. He found that I had one of those panels, and was surprised it hadn't been replaced already. So, a panel upgrade was called for, and the 14-50 got installed for the cost of the materials. I pitched in the labor for stringing wires and such to reduce the cost. We also added a pair of 20 amp GFI outlets while we were at it. Again, materials only. They're a back-up for 120v charging, in case we need it.
 
+1

I would not trust that panel for heavy continuous load like EV charging. Replace it ASAP.

Ditto. That panel is super sketch. Also, I don't recognize the wire type leaving the dryer receptacle. Is that like some pre-romex stuff?

Can you post some wider frame pictures and also pictures of the main panel? Close ups of the panel detail stickers (usually on the doors) would be good as well (and maybe the meter base to the house too).

I am also confused by the comments on that receptacle? Are you saying it is disconnected inside the panel? Or just nothing is plugged into it?

At the end of the day, I think from a safety standpoint there is an excellent chance you are in replacement electrical panel territory.

EV's draw a lot of power for long periods of time. If properly wired, it is completely safe, but if you have any loose connections, bad panels, etc... they are a recipe for a house fire.

The standard question we need to ask is: How many miles a day do you drive on average? Most likely a 30a 240v outlet may be sufficient for many folks driving habits (24 amps continuous), but some may need more or choose to want more if they want to charge at the max rate. If you end up getting a new panel / service you could likely support at least a 50a receptacle (which can do 40a continuous), though the UMC Gen 2 will only do a max of 32 amps continuous. So if you want to charge faster than that, you will need a Wall Connector.

Though this gets us into the territory of needing to do a load calculation to make sure your house electrical service has enough remaining capacity. Based on the age of your panel, I suspect you don't even have a 200a main electrical service (probably 100a or maybe even smaller).
 
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If you have a Gen 1 UMC, you might wish to consider the following:

Adapter:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XGPVVXG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The adapter connects to a male 14-50 adapter on the UMC 1 or 14-50 extension cord. If using this setup, you need to manually dial down your charging current to 24A as the UMC will think it's connected to a 14-50 @ 40A.
It would be easier, cheaper and safer to just use the 10-30 adapter available from Tesla: Model S/X Gen 1 NEMA Adapters

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Thank you all for the feedback, I am working on retrieving some price quotes for the job hopefully this can be sorted out. I will be providing some updates to the inquiring minds on the cost and what exactly needed to be done to reconnect the 10-30. Additionally, I bought a 10-30 adapter from the tesla site already just waiting for an inspection from three different vendors.
 
Please, please have a qualified electrician look at that panel. Do a Google search. This panel is known to fail and have circuit breakers that do NOT trip on overload. I really would not add any loads to the panel now, especially a Tesla.