supersnoop
Tesla Roadster #334
Any tips on removing the front calipers? They don't seem to be the same as the lotus YouTube videos I've found.
The front calipers are held in place with (2) 10MM socket head bolts, an 8MM Allen wrench should remove those bolts and then the caliper slides up over the rotor once the pistons are retracted.
Hope that helps.
Hope that helps.
supersnoop
Tesla Roadster #334
Thanks guys! Maybe I didn't make it far enough through the video, but once I figured out what needed to be done, this was an easy upgrade.
My right rear rotor was seized to the hub, but a little AeroKroil and it was free after I finished the front.
SpitzNV
Member
Hey guys, any recommendations on where to get these babies installed? I'm in the South Bay (live in Willow Glen, work in Santa Clara). Thanks in advance!
SpitzNV
Member
Just realized my post wasn't as clear as it could be.
I have the new rotors and pads already, but looking for someone to install them.
Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated!
slcasner
Active Member
I had mine installed a few weeks ago at Custom Alignment in Mountain View. That shop has been mentioned in a few threads here about alignment work.
slcasner
Active Member
Back in post #359 of this thread, I asked if it was expected that the pads would rub on the rotors when the brakes were not active. @titaniumdave responded that this was normal. I still had some concern because after 200 miles I could still hear the brakes rubbing with a bit of a once-per-revolution "whoosh" when I let the car roll along at creep speed. I was afraid this would reduce range.
I just completed my first long trip with the 3.0 battery; this was from Sunnyvale to Santa Barbara, 289.3 miles. I've made this trip a few times before with the original battery. I always drive it with the cruise control set at 62mph as shown on both the VDS and the JVC (they are about 0.5 mph different, so getting both to read 62 takes a few tries, but this means I know there isn't much variation in the setting each time). On the last trip down in June 2014 the ratio of real miles to ideal miles was 0.97 but this time it was 0.87, so I thought my concern might have been borne out.
However, on the trip back north (which is uphill, right?
) the ratio was 0.86 last time versus 0.94 this time. Perhaps the additional mileage on the trip down had further broken in the pads, suggesting improvement in the return leg. When I listened for the brakes rubbing after the trip I'm not sure I could still hear the sound. Of course, there are many other variables that can affect the range besides speed, such as wind speed and direction, ambient temperature, load weight and tire diameter (I recently put on four new tires). The elevation difference between the endpoints is nominal and the load should have been pretty close to the same for both trips except for the increase of 120 pounds for the 3.0 battery. I guess the conclusion has to be that there is not a problem with the brakes rubbing.
With the original battery, this trip required a 1-hour charging stop in Salinas and a 2-hour charging stop in San Luis Obispo. With the new battery it should be possible to make the trip with no charging stop, but to be conservative for the first trip, I planned a lunch stop in SLO where there is a good 240V 70A EVSE. After charging at home in range mode (337 ideal miles) I switched to standard mode for the drive, so I started out with 303 ideal miles. The distance to SLO is 195.9 miles but consumed 229 IM. The additional 93.4 miles to Santa Barbara consumed 102 IM, for a total of 331. That means I would have been down to fumes without the charge stop considering the 0.87 M/IM ratio. On future trips I could consider skipping the stop if time is more important than lunch and if the ratio is larger so that I have more like 130 IM remaining when I reach SLO.
I just completed my first long trip with the 3.0 battery; this was from Sunnyvale to Santa Barbara, 289.3 miles. I've made this trip a few times before with the original battery. I always drive it with the cruise control set at 62mph as shown on both the VDS and the JVC (they are about 0.5 mph different, so getting both to read 62 takes a few tries, but this means I know there isn't much variation in the setting each time). On the last trip down in June 2014 the ratio of real miles to ideal miles was 0.97 but this time it was 0.87, so I thought my concern might have been borne out.
However, on the trip back north (which is uphill, right?
) the ratio was 0.86 last time versus 0.94 this time. Perhaps the additional mileage on the trip down had further broken in the pads, suggesting improvement in the return leg. When I listened for the brakes rubbing after the trip I'm not sure I could still hear the sound. Of course, there are many other variables that can affect the range besides speed, such as wind speed and direction, ambient temperature, load weight and tire diameter (I recently put on four new tires). The elevation difference between the endpoints is nominal and the load should have been pretty close to the same for both trips except for the increase of 120 pounds for the 3.0 battery. I guess the conclusion has to be that there is not a problem with the brakes rubbing.With the original battery, this trip required a 1-hour charging stop in Salinas and a 2-hour charging stop in San Luis Obispo. With the new battery it should be possible to make the trip with no charging stop, but to be conservative for the first trip, I planned a lunch stop in SLO where there is a good 240V 70A EVSE. After charging at home in range mode (337 ideal miles) I switched to standard mode for the drive, so I started out with 303 ideal miles. The distance to SLO is 195.9 miles but consumed 229 IM. The additional 93.4 miles to Santa Barbara consumed 102 IM, for a total of 331. That means I would have been down to fumes without the charge stop considering the 0.87 M/IM ratio. On future trips I could consider skipping the stop if time is more important than lunch and if the ratio is larger so that I have more like 130 IM remaining when I reach SLO.
bonnie
I play a nice person on twitter.
I'm waiting for the snow to melt enough so I can drive my Roadster into Portland for installation ... it's under cover, plugged in, and happy. But it's seriously buried right now. (You can see the passenger-side mirror, just left and above center.)
spaceballs
Member
Great photo! and I thought my car was buried last week.
New Rotors installed!
But warning to others, after they were installed them and drove a few miles, I found that back wheels was actually warm due to my pads that were slightly clamping on the rotors/slightly engaged. A re-adjustment (loosen) of my e-brake solved this issue.
New Rotors installed!
But warning to others, after they were installed them and drove a few miles, I found that back wheels was actually warm due to my pads that were slightly clamping on the rotors/slightly engaged. A re-adjustment (loosen) of my e-brake solved this issue.
I had the pleasure of meeting up with @RobsJester today in W.Hollywood to admire how stunning #453's new rotors look against the extra dark cast base rims. Posting these images here with his permission for all to enjoy (thx Rob!):
Quasimodo
Member
@titaniumdave, just signet up for next group order using the link for the previous buy - is that all good?
@tiitaniumdave - I am now ready to order a set of rotors and pads. Do you still have any sets or are you out?
With the extra weight of my 3.0 battery this week the stopping distance has grown!
With the extra weight of my 3.0 battery this week the stopping distance has grown!
supersnoop
Tesla Roadster #334
WIth the new hat material, should we increase the torque on the lug nuts? I've got some noise that I've isolated to one rotor, but I don't know what to do about it.
Stock torque spec is fine, the rotor hat only acts as a spacer when the wheel is bolted in place so it makes no difference that the material is changed from cast iron to aluminum.
Simon,
Use the current link to sign up, I will try to get help from Jason to rename/redate and update the questionnaire with brake pad options.
I'm working on another round of rotors, if we can pull together 16 more buyers by June we can hold the price the same as last year!
Here is what I will try to do again:
Set of 4 rotors, $1595.
G-LOC pads cost is $320.
Friction discs only $1195(replacement set)
Rotors only $1595
Rotors and pads $1915
Feel free to e-mail me directly:
[email protected]
Here is what I will try to do again:
Set of 4 rotors, $1595.
G-LOC pads cost is $320.
Friction discs only $1195(replacement set)
Rotors only $1595
Rotors and pads $1915
Feel free to e-mail me directly:
[email protected]
There have been a few questions about the procedure to install the rotor/pad upgrade, here is a good tutorial for the job. The only thing I would add is to use 'Brake Quiet' during the brake pad installation:
bonnie
I play a nice person on twitter.
Just a quick thanks to @titaniumdave for a quality product & for installing on my Roadster today. Much appreciated!
Excuse the dirty Roadster. I drive it on rainy days. Like today.
Excuse the dirty Roadster. I drive it on rainy days. Like today.
Attachments
-
Screen Shot 2017-03-29 at 8.25.16 PM.png
Nvbob
Roadster 1256
We had an almost unfortunate incident this last weekend.
We were heading down to Sutter Creek in Cali on hwy 49 just south of Placerville. The weather was nasty with heavy rain and wind. We were a few car lengths behind another auto and as they came up to a curve they braked almost to a stop. I depressed the brake pedal expecting the car to slow down. Well, I had to almost stand on the brake to get us to slow enough to not hit the car in front of us. Luckily, we slowed in time.
We have the stock rotors with Carbotech 1521’s and they have been great in all other situations until now. Like I mentioned, there was heavy rain and wind so, I expect the brakes were pretty wet also.
Will Dave’s rotors perform better in the same conditions? If so, we are ready to upgrade.
Dave, I have PM’d you for more information.
We were heading down to Sutter Creek in Cali on hwy 49 just south of Placerville. The weather was nasty with heavy rain and wind. We were a few car lengths behind another auto and as they came up to a curve they braked almost to a stop. I depressed the brake pedal expecting the car to slow down. Well, I had to almost stand on the brake to get us to slow enough to not hit the car in front of us. Luckily, we slowed in time.
We have the stock rotors with Carbotech 1521’s and they have been great in all other situations until now. Like I mentioned, there was heavy rain and wind so, I expect the brakes were pretty wet also.
Will Dave’s rotors perform better in the same conditions? If so, we are ready to upgrade.
Dave, I have PM’d you for more information.
Similar threads
