Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Roadster' started by wiztecy, Jan 16, 2015.
Yes, clamp the brake down hard and this should set the pads in the correct location.
I unfortunately have to report that a re-application of the goop to the pad did not work. The mechanic said he did some research on his own, and applied some to the piston as well. Dried and re-assembled. Pushed on the pedal to set the piston into the pad, then let it sit for a few minutes before driving it. He said that it worked, but on the way home I tried it, and the clacking was definitely still there. In fact, it seemed to require less braking force than before to cause it.
I'm still not quite sure that he got the idea that the goop needs to be totally dry. He said that it "would get hard", so I'm thinking he thought that totally hard was bad, and still assembled the brakes too soon. To those who have succeeded, drying totally hard is what we want, right? Even if he used a heat gun on the pads, I doubt it was used on the piston, so perhaps that's where the error was? The car was only driven a few miles (home to shop) before being taken apart, so the front brakes were likely still stone cold.
I asked him what he would do if this didn't work (this was before the test drive), and he said that he was thinking to swap brake pads with the driver's side (the ones that are working) in order to see if perhaps the pads or rotors were at fault. I'd strongly prefer not to touch the left side, since it's working.
Any last thoughts?
Hmm, it does not matter if the goo is on the pistons or the pads, same interface once installed. From my experience the longer they sit before you drive the better. Make sure the pin springs are tight, lots of tension between the pins and the pads.
I received mine today and they look great...
Me or my Tesla Ranger will install them...
In layman's terms - the brake quiet goop - Is it supposed to be a high temperature adhesive?
Or is it suppose to be a "textured spacer/shim filling the space between the pad and piston?"
Or is it a "sound deadener" to keep the parts from ringing or finding a resonance?
I think this is the 3rd batch of the rotors.
Is it this batch or 2nd batch that the pads were pre-broken in?
Thank you, Shawn
Brake Quiet is high temp adhesive.
This is the 3rd batch of rotors. Some of the 2nd batch of pads were pre-bed and looked dusty.
I still have a few set of rotors in stock from this batch...folks either didn't pay or chose to not get them for one reason or another. Let me know if you have been waiting to make the purchase, no waiting for brake improvement!
We changed our rotors and pads a couple of weeks ago. Here’s the procedure our tech used:
Apply the brake quiet to the back of the pads and set them aside to dry.
Clean the rotors (Dave uses a soapy solution and a brush - they use Dawn, then rinse, and allow to dry) then with brake cleaner to get the shipping protectant off.
We followed @strider’s instructions - Now Shipping: Custom Tesla Roadster 2-Piece Slotted Rotors
Per our SC - Tesla recommends using blue loc-tite on both the 5mm rotor to the hub bolts and also to the 8mm Allen caliper to the knuckle bolts.
Also, per our SC - The torque on the rotor to the hub bolts is 20 N/m and the caliper to knuckle bolts is 45 N/m
Hi folks, an update...
I'm back at the shop. We compared the new Gloc pads with the original ones, and find the new ones are definitely smaller, which is the root cause of them rattling. Also see a lip on the outside edge, where the pad is hanging over the edge of the rotors by about a mm or so.
The thought is to weld a shim on the side of the Pad so they will fit more snugly, and grind a camphor on the outside edge. But, shouldn't these have fit as-is??
I am corresponding with GLoc about the backing pads now. More info soon I hope. The outer edge hanging over the rotor is not an issue, it's common for aftermarket pad manufacturers to put more material on there pads to make sure they have coverage for all applications. This material will just fall off with no negative effect since it's on the out side edge and will not interfere with the pad or caliper removal.
Can anyone grab a few measurements frim your stock rotors for me?
How thick is the face plate where studs go through. How wide is the back of the rotor hat where it goes over hub?