Don’t happen to be in SoCal do you? Looking for an installer so I can take the plunge!Curiosity killed the cat, I wanted a bit more bass.
Installed the NVX 1,000W amp this weekend. To add a layer of safety I also installed a manual switch for the amp turn on lead and can fully disable the amp when not using. This should keep the 12V battery healthier.
Sounds amazing, hits much harder. Need to trace down some new rattles.
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NVX Boost Subwoofer upgrade - installed
- Thread starter C-Bus Y
- Start date
Sorry, out east in central Ohio and only do this for fun.
Any competent shop should be able to do this. Other than connecting power wires under the seat and not going overkill with the amps there is really nothing special about the Tesla install.
Another user here on the boards added an additional layer of safety and used a 12V trigger that only has power when someone is in the drivers seat. Pretty slick.
Any competent shop should be able to do this. Other than connecting power wires under the seat and not going overkill with the amps there is really nothing special about the Tesla install.
Another user here on the boards added an additional layer of safety and used a 12V trigger that only has power when someone is in the drivers seat. Pretty slick.
I have the nvx enclosure & sub but wanted more power. I went with the AudioControl LC1.800. It has the built in line level inputs LC2i. I got a warning right away once everything was plugged in. I used the speaker level turn on option (GTO). For people that are worried it doesn't harm the vehicle. At first, I would pop the trunk & turn off the (GTO) switch when leaving the vehicle, but now I just installed a rocker switch up front on the side of the center console. If i forget to turn it off, i will either get a warning in the morning, which i will do the reset (10min) super easy, or I get lucky & there is no warning. Its all randomn. It is a really easy install. If anyone needs help in the Seattle area just message me.
That’s awesome. I have been turning off the toggle switch and so far no warnings at all. The key seems to be preventing high amp draw when not in the vehicle or driving.
Jpandes
Member
I love it! I’ve had mines installed since February with 0 issues and sounds amazing I didn’t put in a switch and have never gotten any messages but seems logical to have just in case. Also I still have no battery issues and I pound this setup daily and twice on tuesdays lol. If anyone is on the fence, reach out I’ll send videos if it makes you feel more comfortable but the NVX1000.1 is my “go to” now.Curiosity killed the cat, I wanted a bit more bass.
Installed the NVX 1,000W amp this weekend. To add a layer of safety I also installed a manual switch for the amp turn on lead and can fully disable the amp when not using. This should keep the 12V battery healthier.
Sounds amazing, hits much harder. Need to trace down some new rattles.
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Solid! I have been very happy with the NVX 1000w amp, great bang for the buck.
I'm going to try it on a 2022, shouldn't be an issue with 15.5V as the amp can take up to 16V.
I plan on tapping power from the Penthouse. Where is the best location to ground the amp?
I see a handful of posts saying that the NVX Boost upgrade, the way it comes from them with their sub, amp, LOC, and enclosure, is better than OE but still somewhat gutless. I see NVX offers a dual dub setup with an additional 10" on the other side but maybe those with some experience with different setups wouldn't mind saying what they believe each step for upgrading would be. IE would it be to swap out the NVX 10" sub for something better? or maybe swapping out the NVX amp for more power? or is it adding NVX's second sub? Maybe it is pulling signal to the LOC from a door speaker that is getting full rage rather than the factory sub that is not? I'm just one to try and do as much homework first so I only have to install once. I'm not a heavy hitter but I do like my bass. I'm a huge fan the the JL Stealth boxes and the idea behind them.
Great post. My progression with the dual 10” NVX subwoofers is as follows and am very happy with the system.
-Upgraded to 1K watt NVX amp, added toggle switch for remote turn on lead so I can disable when bass is not needed/wanted, and when I get out of car. So far no electrical issues in 6 months.
-Added poly fill to boost boxes, unknown impact
-Continue using factory sub and lowered crossover point on NVX amp to around 65 hz. Factory sub works well and NVX takes over the deeper lows. Use bassX on LOC to boost low end.
-Would love to try a different brand of sub but have not found one with identical specs to the NVX unit. Boost box has threaded inserts so it would have to match perfectly or new holes will need to be drilled. Would like to try a sub with a longer throw to see if it could get a bit deeper. Had JL Audio in my last vehicle and it may have gone deeper with similar power.
Very happy with how it sounds, but I am always tinkering and looking to improve.
Wow. That's a pretty long project. Would you say it's possible to be done if you have low to none experience?
Awesome feedback. Generally speaking, a setup is only as good as the weakest link and I normally wouldn't have considered keeping the factory sub. I see a mix of posts with some saying they have kept the factory sub and some who have ditched it. In your case it appears you are using the factory sub to take care of a different range of frequencies allowing the NVX subs to pick up the lower range. Do you have any issues keeping the gain levels the same, across the board, no matter the volume level? I have no issues with a bass knob but prefer to tune to where I'm not constantly reaching for it every time the song or volume level changes.Great post. My progression with the dual 10” NVX subwoofers is as follows and am very happy with the system.
-Upgraded to 1K watt NVX amp, added toggle switch for remote turn on lead so I can disable when bass is not needed/wanted, and when I get out of car. So far no electrical issues in 6 months.
-Added poly fill to boost boxes, unknown impact
-Continue using factory sub and lowered crossover point on NVX amp to around 65 hz. Factory sub works well and NVX takes over the deeper lows. Use bassX on LOC to boost low end.
-Would love to try a different brand of sub but have not found one with identical specs to the NVX unit. Boost box has threaded inserts so it would have to match perfectly or new holes will need to be drilled. Would like to try a sub with a longer throw to see if it could get a bit deeper. Had JL Audio in my last vehicle and it may have gone deeper with similar power.
Very happy with how it sounds, but I am always tinkering and looking to improve.
I don’t change the radio EQ or settings on Amp and LOC very often, but always tweaking bass knob.
Different songs have very different bass profiles. Put the bass knob in an easy to access spot and it becomes second nature. And sometimes you want to thump for some fun.
Different songs have very different bass profiles. Put the bass knob in an easy to access spot and it becomes second nature. And sometimes you want to thump for some fun.
Where did you splice for the switch? The remote wire going from the LOC to the amp? Looks great. Any pop sound when switching the amp on or off? Where did you find the rocker switch? Thanks!Curiosity killed the cat, I wanted a bit more bass.
Installed the NVX 1,000W amp this weekend. To add a layer of safety I also installed a manual switch for the amp turn on lead and can fully disable the amp when not using. This should keep the 12V battery healthier.
Sounds amazing, hits much harder. Need to trace down some new rattles.
View attachment 802045View attachment 802046