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Is it not a closed cylinder?
There is a part that comes in and out of the closed cylinder. The seals around that can dry out or get contaminated. On other vehicles springs/clips are involved. Lubrication helps prevent them getting stuck. Simply put, some people get away with never doing this maintenance. But road salt and debris make this more of a problem.
 
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There is a part that comes in and out of the closed cylinder. The seals around that can dry out or get contaminated. On other vehicles springs/clips are involved. Lubrication helps prevent them getting stuck. Simply put, some people get away with never doing this maintenance. But road salt and debris make this more of a problem.
Right. So we don’t disagree. Simply cleaning that area, using your brakes now and again, feeling for changes, periodically lubricating (on a time table relevant to individual circumstances) is all that’s required; not some arbitrary C&D or even Tesla timetable. Good. Glad we got that sorted.
 
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Nope this is nonsense. I have never lubricated brake calibers any car I have ever owned.
My Model S has 50,000 miles on it and I have spent exactly ZERO on maintenence.

Car and Driver is fishing......and they smell fishy.
I have no opinion on Car and Driver but in the North East you should have your brakes looked at for ANY car every so often. I did not on my 2012 model S and is cost me a complete new set of everything in 2017 - even though the rotors has 60% life left. Specifically due to my car, I was told that Tesla instituted an inspection for cars that live through salty winters. I have no way to verify if this is true.
 
I have no opinion on Car and Driver but in the North East you should have your brakes looked at for ANY car every so often. I did not on my 2012 model S and is cost me a complete new set of everything in 2017 - even though the rotors has 60% life left. Specifically due to my car, I was told that Tesla instituted an inspection for cars that live through salty winters. I have no way to verify if this is true.
Well I do have an opinion on C&D and it is this...they stink.
Even in the corner cases like your's....they effect all car's so for C&D to act like this is what makes a Tesla not as good a deal as it is......stinks.
 
Well I do have an opinion on C&D and it is this...they stink.
Even in the corner cases like your's....they effect all car's so for C&D to act like this is what makes a Tesla not as good a deal as it is......stinks.
I used to be subbed to CR, C&D and NYT before their Tesla hit pieces. All three. Now none. Admittedly I knew CR was crap for car advice years ago and read for other reasons such as appliances.
 
I have no opinion on Car and Driver but in the North East you should have your brakes looked at for ANY car every so often. I did not on my 2012 model S and is cost me a complete new set of everything in 2017 - even though the rotors has 60% life left. Specifically due to my car, I was told that Tesla instituted an inspection for cars that live through salty winters. I have no way to verify if this is true.
The problem is that they are pretending this is something specific to Tesla, and it's not.
 
I have read C and D for the past thirty years or so. I have read every issue cover to cover for the last 15 years I would say. There is a definite anti-BEV bias, BUT only marginally, and I would say it is improving. I mean the issue previously (the EV issue) they did really try to dispel some myths, and educate people on EV's.
They also publish objective data (including PANEL GAPS). For some reason i could not find the article online...so went digging. NOTICE the last sentence.
As said though, there is still some noticeable bias.

panelgap.jpg
 
I needed to this. My front brake pads and rotors needed to be changed as the pads were scrubbing the rotors all the time ($$). That was slightly more than a year ago. from now on I will lubricate the calliper once a year to prevent that.

I use my P3D in some of the worst corrosion conditions every winter. The highway I regularly travel 38 miles on has liquid de-icer composed of either calcium chloride, sodium chloride or magnesium chloride (depending upon temperatures) applied before storm events. Because this is in the North Cascades storm events are the norm all winter long. During storm events, solid sodium chloride (salt) crystals and sand is applied. The granular products are often pre-wet with one of the liquid de-icers to help them stick better and increase the effectiveness vs. salt/sand alone. Even though these products are applied continuously, the storms often overwhelm the de-icers. The result is thick slush and puddles saturated with chlorides and plenty of sand wetted with the same. It sticks everywhere around the wheel wells and lower body.

Most of the corrosion happens when the ice is melting and temperatures have risen. Corrosion is like wood rot in that it progresses much faster the warmer it is. Because of this I spray the car off after skiing with plain water whenever the temperature is above freezing in the low lands. Often this is not possible because typical winter temperature in the evening at my cabin is often below freezing. But the cold temperatures reduce the rate of corrosion.

I have had my brake discs rust and creating a grinding noise anytime it sits during or after a rain. The chlorides make it many times worse. This goes away after a few brake applications. The bigger potential problem is when corrosion inhibits the pistons from fully retracting. But rinsing the wheels off when possible has so far prevented any lasting issues. I direct the spray directly on the brake calipers from a couple of different angles. The car has gone through three winters and has never been serviced beyond inspection. In other words, the calipers have never had any lubrication at all so the rinsing of the calipers whenever the temperature rises above freezing.

The Brembo brakes on the Model 3 are some of the highest quality calipers seen on common production cars so C&D is spreading FUD when they try to differentiate the brakes on a Tesla from ICE cars. Especially since you KNOW the C&D staff was using the "go pedal" and the brakes plenty. Even EV drivers know to apply the brakes to get rid of the roughness caused by surface corrosion. My previous car (Mazda CX-5) had exactly the same usage on the same roads under the same conditions and the brake pads needed replacing after only 32K miles! The Mazda rear brakes were ready to grind metal on metal even though I mostly hypermiled it and used the brakes very little. Even when driving in a sporty manner I would avoid heavy repeated brake application so the premature pad wear was certainly due to caliper corrosion preventing the pads from fully retracting. This was the first car I've ever had that wore out the rear brakes before the front. And the discs would rust if you looked at them sideways and take much longer to wear the rust off than the Tesla.

In the winter, whenever you get a thaw, spray off inside the wheels with plain water. It gets most of those nasty chlorides out of there. If it's staying below freezing, corrosion is inhibited by the low temperatures.
 
Once a robot is advanced enough to pick up fluff, the Dreadnaught can be launched.

Tesla probably need to do robotics to advance DoJo as a Service (DJAAS) for their other customers. Besides, SpaceX will need robots & advanced AI to go & hunt down inner asteroids for nickel, water etc.
No! No....this is too close to the snake charger and the toilet paper thread. I do not want some robot trying to find my inner asteroids/ass to 'roids.
 
You guys using a controller to play this?
1) I inserted this 4-port hub near the 12v plug

2) i inserted my dashcam's USB on the hub

3) i inserted the controller's USB on the hub

Game is super addicting and one can kill hours on this...
 
I will try to make this on topic, but really I’m just sharing my joy.


New toy arrived this morning. We traded in our petrol mower for an electric equivalent, so we’re now fully electric.

Very happy with it so far, after one mow. It’s better than the old husqvarna in a number of ways.
No earmuffs required.
The blades spin faster so it cuts better.
No belts to break.
Three independent motors, so going up a steep rise doesn’t affect cutting.
Free fuel (40 PV panels just visible in shot), so long as we charge during the day.
Easier to hop off and move rocks/branches with no engine to restart.
No breathing smoke.

It’s on charge now, 4 hrs till full. I can see myself doing more frequent trim mowing now that there’s no Jerrycan involved.

Relevance to Tesla is that as electric mowers ride down the cheaper batteries curve, there will come a point where everybody will switch. They are better mowers. Even if Tesla don’t make a whole mower, they all need motors and batteries. People would def pay a bit extra for one with a “powered by Tesla” sticker and a multi year pack warranty.

Cheers

B8F6E2D3-815D-4077-9C0B-BBA1ED69F0AB.jpeg
 
I will try to make this on topic, but really I’m just sharing my joy.


New toy arrived this morning. We traded in our petrol mower for an electric equivalent, so we’re now fully electric.

Very happy with it so far, after one mow. It’s better than the old husqvarna in a number of ways.
No earmuffs required.
The blades spin faster so it cuts better.
No belts to break.
Three independent motors, so going up a steep rise doesn’t affect cutting.
Free fuel (40 PV panels just visible in shot), so long as we charge during the day.
Easier to hop off and move rocks/branches with no engine to restart.
No breathing smoke.

It’s on charge now, 4 hrs till full. I can see myself doing more frequent trim mowing now that there’s no Jerrycan involved.

Relevance to Tesla is that as electric mowers ride down the cheaper batteries curve, there will come a point where everybody will switch. They are better mowers. Even if Tesla don’t make a whole mower, they all need motors and batteries. People would def pay a bit extra for one with a “powered by Tesla” sticker and a multi year pack warranty.

Cheers

View attachment 692248
Same experience with new battery powered chainsaws - amazing power - no noise. 1 hour of cutting per battery.