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No the Redwood Performance Sport is 8kg front / 11kg rear per the manual.8k/11k
Nice find there. Still had their old style welded fork legs, I guess the billet ones came later. I agree I doubt they've changed the spring rates, no reason to at least for AWD Model 3 which all basically weigh the same, newer or older, P or Long Range.Ah, for some reason I thought GT was the Sport, lol.
The early GT kit was 5k/7k, as can be seen in this video, maybe they've changed it since, but I doubt it.
Meant to reply to your post. If you perform a zip-tie test, you can find out whether you need more compression travel or not.That's what I thought too. Maybe the rear shock length is set too long for the ride height.
Essentially stock.Does anyone know what the spring rates are for M3 AWD Redwood GT kit?
Are the tires really coming off the ground or just felt like they are? Check to make sure the rear isn't riding or bottoming on the bumpstops.
That's what I thought too. Maybe the rear shock length is set too long for the ride height.
Oh boy, here's my saga regarding rear compression travel:Do you know how to do a zip-tie test for compression travel?
If you deviated from the recommended settings, you should compensate the damper equally for the additional compression travel needed. If the results of the zip-tie test is to add additional compression travel, you should do so or add more ride height.I guess I don't know for sure without an external video of the car hiring these bumps, but I can't distinguish from a more gentle weightlessness sensation where I don't think the tires are coming off the ground, and a harsher jolt upwards and crash downwards which I'm assuming is because of lift off.
Oh boy, here's my saga regarding rear compression travel:
Initially I had the recommended damper length and spring perch height. To get additional drop in ride height I dropped the rear spring perch from 20mm to 0mm. I suspected I was hitting the bump stop, and confirmed this with a zip tie. Ohlins recommended reducing damper length by 15mm to compensate for the drop in ride height, but I still felt like I was hitting the bump stop and the zip tie also indicated this.
I did a test of compressing the rear spring 20mm with a jack and found this changed the exposed damper shaft by 28mm. So I think lowering the spring perch by 20mm reduced my compression travel by 28mm.
I reduced the damper another 15mm, so my dampers are now 30mm shorter than the initial setup. Even with this, the rear will still pop up, and the zip tie still travels to set on the bump stop, at least at 20 clicks. Note that I had this adverse behavior even with the initial recommended damper length and spring perch setting of 20mm.
The zip tie suggests I need even more compression travel, but I've hesitated to this so far.
I've been running the dampers at stiffer settings and _think_ it's been better. So maybe at softer settings I'm running out of compression travel. I'm going to reset the zip tip with the stiffer settings and see how it does.
Problem is even at the recommended settings I didn't have enough compression travel. I was hesitating further shortening the damper and decreasing droop travel, and also with regards to battery clearance.If you deviated from the recommended settings, you should compensate the damper equally for the additional compression travel needed. If the results of the zip-tie test is to add additional compression travel, you should do so or add more ride height.
Damping adjustment on R&T is only adding rebound damping so that will have no affect on the issue you are trying to solve. You may be running so much rebound damping the the damper is packing and the tire is losing contact with the ground.
so my dampers are now 30mm shorter than the initial setup
What's your current rear damper length? I think Redwood's 'risky' recommendation is 630mm.Nonetheless today I shortened the rear dampers 10mm more
R&T doesn't use a secondary spring so their bump stop is a hard stop. I would hop on the phone with an Ohlins engineer if you think you have done the installation, measurements, and adjustments correctly.Problem is even at the recommended settings I didn't have enough compression travel. I was hesitating further shortening the damper and decreasing droop travel, and also with regards to battery clearance.
Nonetheless today I shortened the rear dampers 10mm more. I did 40 minutes of city/highway driving and for the first time the zip tie wasn't sitting on the bump stop when I got back home, and I didn't experience the rear jumping. So it seems like I finally have enough compression travel. I'll take a drive to the airport tomorrow to confirm. I distinctly remember the rear jumping 3 times when I did that route after the initial install.
How would I determine that if I still have sufficient droop travel now?
They're linked together so that the damping adjustment changes both, but to your point it does change rebound damping more than it changes compression damping.
@Motion122 What do you mean by "secondary spring?" That makes me think helper spring, but I believe that would only be relevant at full extension, not at full compression.R&T doesn't use a secondary spring so their bump stop is a hard stop. I would hop on the phone with an Ohlins engineer if you think you have done the installation, measurements, and adjustments correctly.
@dsgerbc Are you sure that free length measurements are comparable between Redwood Ohlins DFV and Ohlins R&T? Does 630mm actually put the bump stop at the same place with both dampers, or might it be different e.g. due to different damper bodies or bump stops?What's your current rear damper length? I think Redwood's 'risky' recommendation is 630mm.
Going below it exposes the battery to damage.
For what it's worth I agree with @dsgerbc that it's better to hit the bump stops than risk battery damage. Stock rear compression travel is limited, I hit the bump stops often when stock too, it's just the design of the car. @nadkoolio if you lowered the car at all then you should lose compression travel, otherwise you're letting the battery get even closer to the ground under full compression. What's your hub-to-fender height? Stock height is best for the street. (Or even a little higher honestly would make sense, even though most of us don't want to lift our sedans.)How much lower than stock are you?
I think hitting bump stops is fine, it's part of the suspension. The trick is not hitting it too often. So the zip-tie test isn't really that indicative, unless you have a ton or bump/dropp shock travel to work with to begin with, which is not the case for our rear suspension.
Valid point, I have no info on how different are the shocks in terms of stroke etc. But cutting 40mm off the recommended shock length is a lot.Are you sure that free length measurements are comparable between Redwood Ohlins DFV and Ohlins R&T?
How much lower than stock are you?
For what it's worth I agree with @dsgerbc that it's better to hit the bump stops than risk battery damage. Stock rear compression travel is limited, I hit the bump stops often when stock too, it's just the design of the car. @nadkoolio if you lowered the car at all then you should lose compression travel, otherwise you're letting the battery get even closer to the ground under full compression. What's your hub-to-fender height? Stock height is best for the street. (Or even a little higher honestly would make sense, even though most of us don't want to lift our sedans.)
However if you are/were hitting the bump stops more with the R&T while at stock height, that's not good of course, then you should get that compression travel back.
@nadkoolio So now you've reduced full compression ground clearance by 40mm (1.6 inches!), balancing out your 40mm drop. Makes perfect sense that you feel the ride is fixed. But I agree with @dsgerbc, that seems like a big reduction for compressed ground clearance. We all have different risk tolerances. That would go beyond mind personally. I'm no expert but I think you should raise the car some (spring perch) and lengthen the shock body accordingly. Or just lengthen the shock body and accept that a low car is going to ride and handle worse on the street.
R&T doesn't use a secondary spring so their bump stop is a hard stop. I would hop on the phone with an Ohlins engineer if you think you have done the installation, measurements, and adjustments correctly.
Ohlins R&T instructions say that their default specs should result in 20mm lowering. Something is off here.The recommending spring perch setting of 20mm for Model Y resulted in my rear ride height being higher than stock,
Absolutely, though how you torque the bolts wouldn't affect the ride heightOhlins R&T instructions say that their default specs should result in 20mm lowering. Something is off here.
Are you tightening all the shock/lower control arm bolts at ride height?
It absolutely does affect the ride height, unless you replace every control arm/shock bushing with a bearing.though how you torque the bolts wouldn't affect the ride height