Ohlins R&T Coilovers with Swift Springs!

[Motion122]

@dsgerbc @tm1v2 Currently my rear hub to fender distance is 415mm. I have the Model Y LR and stock distance is around 432mm, so I'm lowered about 17mm. I'm probably currently around the stock height for the MYP, and definitely still have more ground clearance than an OEM Model 3. With the 12k springs I should be able to have enough compression travel to not hit the bump stops in a jarring way without risking the battery.

The recommending spring perch setting of 20mm for Model Y resulted in my rear ride height being higher than stock, that's why I dropped it to 0 just to get some modest ride height drop and match the front.

At the recommended damper length and recommended height of 20mm for the rear spring perch and ride height greater than stock, I was still hitting bump stocks worse than stock. That's how bad the compression travel setup situation is.



I'll talk to them tomorrow. I'm starting to get a sense that the Y and 3 geometry is different enough that this kit works for the 3 but not the Y.

Any chance you measured, at static height, the amount of compression travel you have?

 

[nadkoolio]

It absolutely does affect the ride height, unless you replace every control arm/shock bushing with a bearing.

Please explain further as I don't understand.

Any chance you measured, at static height, the amount of compression travel you have?

I've measured this at various points. With the damper reduced by 30mm and the rear spring perch at 0mm I had 51mm of compression travel before the bump stop. I haven't measured with the damper shortened by 40mm but presumably now it's 61mm. I don't have any reference for what a good amount of compression travel is for the Model 3/Y though.

 

[dsgerbc]

Please explain further as I don't understand.

Here's a random video.

Our suspension has plenty of bonded rubber bushings - outer metal ring pressed into the arms+center metal rod with a hole for a bolt + rubber in between.
If you tighten those at ride height, those bushings are not doing anything at ride height. If you tighten them at full droop, the rubber will resist the twisting of the bushing as the suspension compresses. It's basically an extra spring, until the bushing tears from all the extra stress.

 

[Jigglypuff]

Clearly you need to lift the car.

 

[Leafable]

How do you increase the front ride height? I spin the anti-clockwise and the grey tube increase and so do the preload. If I reduce the preload the grey will increase in length which will decrease the travel. What is the correct way to increase the front ride height?

Whats the correct length of this part from the preload to the top of the tube?

 

[Motion122]

It absolutely does affect the ride height, unless you replace every control arm/shock bushing with a bearing.

What he said!

Another reason people go with bearings to take the bind and unwanted additional spring rates out of the suspension.

 

[nadkoolio]

How do you increase the front ride height? I spin the anti-clockwise and the grey tube increase and so do the preload. If I reduce the preload the grey will increase in length which will decrease the travel. What is the correct way to increase the front ride height?

To increase the front ride height you'd want to increase the 245 distance and keep the 198 distance the same. In other words, increase the distance between the height adjuster and spring preload adjuster.

I've found the easiest way to do this is to loosen the height adjuster (rotate towards the right). Then turn the small locknut underneath the spring preload adjuster also to the right. Because the locknut and the spring preload adjuster are tight to one another, this will actually lengthen the damper without changing your preload!

While doing this you can also push up on the billet to take tension off the threads.

 

[dsgerbc]

How do you increase the front ride height? I spin the anti-clockwise and the grey tube increase and so do the preload. If I reduce the preload the grey will increase in length which will decrease the travel. What is the correct way to increase the front ride height?

Whats the correct length of this part from the preload to the top of the tube?

If you don't know what you're doing already, the safest option is to e-mail Ohlins support.
Both the shock length and the spring preload can be used to adjust the ride height, depending on your circumstances.

 

[Occhis]

How do you increase the front ride height? I spin the anti-clockwise and the grey tube increase and so do the preload. If I reduce the preload the grey will increase in length which will decrease the travel. What is the correct way to increase the front ride height?

Whats the correct length of this part from the preload to the top of the tube?
View attachment 866998

Lowering ride height can be accomplished 2 ways: shorten free length(the 245 number) or lengthen preload(198). Redwood told me the preferred method is to use preload. If you shorten free length too far you risk bottoming out onto the battery. Using preload, this risk is avoided.

 

[nadkoolio]

If you don't know what you're doing already, the safest option is to e-mail Ohlins support.
Both the shock length and the spring preload can be used to adjust the ride height, depending on your circumstances.

Lowering ride height can be accomplished 2 ways: shorten free length(the 245 number) or lengthen preload(198). Redwood told me the preferred method is to use preload. If you shorten free length too far you risk bottoming out onto the battery. Using preload, this risk is avoided.

For the RT kit Ohlins warns not to decrease spring length to less than 198mm due to risk of coil bind. The spring is 200mm so you also can't set it more than that or it won't have tension at full droop. Given these, for this kit you're only supposed to use the ride height adjuster to adjust ride height. The spring length should more or less always be 198mm.

 

[BSinPDX]

Has anyone tried the R&T kit with 8/10 springs yet? I'm thinking of switching from MPP sport which are firmer than stock, much better handling, and comfortable enough at recommended settings- but that's too low for safety. Any higher and they're rough.

Do the 8/9 springs handle well or are they just comfy? I don't need more comfortable than stock, but definitely need a more crisp/responsive ride than stock.

Wish I knew the MPP spring rates.

 

[Jigglypuff]

Has anyone tried the R&T kit with 8/10 springs yet? I'm thinking of switching from MPP sport which are firmer than stock, much better handling, and comfortable enough at recommended settings- but that's too low for safety. Any higher and they're rough.

Do the 8/9 springs handle well or are they just comfy? I don't need more comfortable than stock, but definitely need a more crisp/responsive ride than stock.

Wish I knew the MPP spring rates.

I'd go get the Redwood GT suspension then. You can go higher than stock while maintaining the comfy ride as they're adjustable. Or you could go put spacers above your shocks and run them in the range for comfort.

 

[nadkoolio]

Has anyone tried the R&T kit with 8/10 springs yet?

I don't know that anyone has reported that they've tried this, but I don't think 8/10 will be significantly different from those that are running 8/9.

I'm thinking of switching from MPP sport which are firmer than stock, much better handling, and comfortable enough at recommended settings- but that's too low for safety. Any higher and they're rough.

Can you elaborate on any higher, they're rougher? Is this something you've tried? Do you want to go higher than the maximum MPP recommended height of 140mm? The only effect on ride quality would be reducing droop travel in exchange for more compression travel, but I'd think you'd still have enough droop travel such that ride quality wouldn't be adversely affected.

Do the 8/9 springs handle well or are they just comfy? I don't need more comfortable than stock, but definitely need a more crisp/responsive ride than stock.

With the RT dampers they handle well. RT dampers are tuned to be pretty stiff. Don't know what setting your running, but the MPP Sport product page says that at full soft their dampers produce less force than the OE dampers. The RT dampers at full soft still has significantly more force than OE dampers.

 

[BSinPDX]

I don't know that anyone has reported that they've tried this, but I don't think 8/10 will be significantly different from those that are running 8/9.

Can you elaborate on any higher, they're rougher? Is this something you've tried? Do you want to go higher than the maximum MPP recommended height of 140mm? The only effect on ride quality would be reducing droop travel in exchange for more compression travel, but I'd think you'd still have enough droop travel such that ride quality wouldn't be adversely affected.

With the RT dampers they handle well. RT dampers are tuned to be pretty stiff. Don't know what setting your running, but the MPP Sport product page says that at full soft their dampers produce less force than the OE dampers. The RT dampers at full soft still has significantly more force than OE dampers.

I recently raised (mostly the front end) because I didn't enjoy the anxiety of bottoming out, which happened a few times and I let my wife drive the car and it worries her. At the same time I dialed an additional click softer 11/13 (from 10/12) from full hard. Unless I completely buggered my dialing (not entirely out of the question), it got noticeably firmer having raised it about 20mm in front. When I asked MPP they said the ride quality would decrease when raising it above the recommended. I dropped it back down some, but it's still firm.

I assumed the extra firmness is spring rate related, rather than damping. Perhaps I'll dig in and really soften the damping to verify before making any drastic purchases. I will say that I was thinking 8/10 springs because I'm one of those people who buys rear sway bars for their regular non-sports cars to avoid understeer. Figured a firmer rear end would help with that.

 

[tm1v2]

@BSinPDX From everything I've read in this thread, and a few others, I'm doubtful the Ohlins R&T is what you want for ride quality or ground clearance improvements. The R&T sound very firm, very performance-focused, and also Ohlins doesn't recommend stock height with it.

I think the Redwood Performance Sport Ohlins DFV is exactly what you're seeking. Nice balance of sporty and street comfort. Works well at stock height (or lowered). You get the DFV benefits in a setup that's tuned for street performance, not as racetrack firm as the R&T.

I'm sure the Redwood GT kit is really good, probably rides better than anything for this car, but Redwood says the GT is very comfort-focused. Since you're coming from MPP Sport my guess is the GT coilovers would give up handling sharpness and feel softer than you want in hard/fast driving. I think you would be happier with the Redwood Performance Sport.

PM coming...

 

[nadkoolio]

I recently raised (mostly the front end) because I didn't enjoy the anxiety of bottoming out, which happened a few times and I let my wife drive the car and it worries her. At the same time I dialed an additional click softer 11/13 (from 10/12) from full hard. Unless I completely buggered my dialing (not entirely out of the question), it got noticeably firmer having raised it about 20mm in front. When I asked MPP they said the ride quality would decrease when raising it above the recommended. I dropped it back down some, but it's still firm.

Something seems amiss here. By raising it you gained compression travel and lost droop travel. I can't think of many situations where this would be harsher. Could you specify whether this on bumps, holes, or something else?

I assumed the extra firmness is spring rate related, rather than damping. Perhaps I'll dig in and really soften the damping to verify before making any drastic purchases.

Raising or lowering doesn't change the spring rate, so it's definitely not that. Definitely worth softening the damper before spending more money!

I will say that I was thinking 8/10 springs because I'm one of those people who buys rear sway bars for their regular non-sports cars to avoid understeer. Figured a firmer rear end would help with that.

I would 100% agree with @tm1v2 that if you go with Redwood to go with their Performance kit. GT will definitely not provide the handling you're looking for.

Your other option is the 3DM Ohlins kit. It is the RT kit with 8/11k sprinfs, softer front dampers and stock RT rear damper.

 

[hek8560]

@tm1v2 I have a road and track kit installed by your shop. It’s set at stock height.Would it be possible to put the oem rear springs back for a soft ride? I think the front springs works fine but the rear is a bit too stiff. I have them set at 20/20 for front and back now.

 

[canasion35]

@tm1v2 I have a road and track kit installed by your shop. It’s set at stock height.Would it be possible to put the oem rear springs back for a soft ride? I think the front springs works fine but the rear is a bit too stiff. I have them set at 20/20 for front and back now.

20 clicks open from full stuff?

 

[hek8560]

20 clicks open from full stuff?

Yes. The softest setting.I have a 7 seater model Y. It’s basically a family car. We don’t like to feel the road imperfections, just smooth ride overall. The road and track kit is still too hard in the rear. I guess I should pay extra to get the redwood one or mpp setup

 

[canasion35]

Yes. The softest setting.I have a 7 seater model Y. It’s basically a family car. We don’t like to feel the road imperfections, just smooth ride overall. The road and track kit is still too hard in the rear. I guess I should pay extra to get the redwood one or mpp setup

Get with @tm1v2 and have him order you a set of different spring rate coil springs!